Wright writes.....

[Jesse Sim]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

This is not hijacking, Jesse,

 

This is all useful information.

 

A possible tip for the future..... If you do bugg*r something up in future, soldering-wise (and I should know!), if it's 'hard'-soldered (not low-melt), don't worry about removing excess solder too much.

 

To remove soldered-in panels and the like, flood the joint with flux and turn the iron up as high as it'll go. Then introduce low-melt solder to the joint. This will form (literally!) a bastard mixture of solders, which will result in the panel easily dropping out. Once it's out, flood it with flux again and reintroduce more low melt-on the cranked-up iron. This will immediately melt all the solder, so, at that point, brush the panel with an old suede brush - this will immediately take off excess solder (and your fingerprints!). Final cleaning up can then be achieved with a fibreglass pencil. 

 

There will be some residual 'contamination', but by using higher melting point to re-attach the pieces, the joint will be sound.

 

It's the fastest way of removing excess solder I know of!

 

You'll then be back on your roll, playing the role of a most-competent modeller.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Cheers Tony, I just got in there with my fingers, a file and the iron and popped them out, my fingers are still numb...

 

It will do as a ‘layout coach’ but I now know for the future, thanks heaps. 

[gr.king]

And if the iron won't supply enough heat, suitably thoughtful and careful use of the oven or hob is always an option.......

 

Watch where you are brushing / flicking the molten solder of course!

[Chuffer Davies]

3 hours ago, Craigw said:

 

Get some solderwick - (about 3mm wide) from RS or element 14. Use a hot iron, apply plenty of flux put the solderwick onto the solder and apply the iron. It will heat up quickly and you can move it around to take up solder. Cut the used section off and repeat. Ideal for large amounts of excess solder.  Obviously the best solution is not to apply so much in the first place!

 

Regards,

 

Craig W

I'm sure its been mentioned on here before by others,  unless you are constantly in need of removing excess solder then a length of multi core wire (plastic cover removed) dipped in flux can be used as a cheap and readily available alternative to Solderwick.  You are effectively using capillary action to draw the melted solder into the braid.

Regards,

Frank 

[Blandford1969]

14 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Duncan,

 

I've illustrated how in my pictures further up the page............

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thanks Tony and jwealleans, really appreciated, now just need to put it into practice. 

[Denbridge]

4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

This is not hijacking, Jesse,

 

This is all useful information.

 

A possible tip for the future..... If you do bugg*r something up in future, soldering-wise (and I should know!), if it's 'hard'-soldered (not low-melt), don't worry about removing excess solder too much.

 

To remove soldered-in panels and the like, flood the joint with flux and turn the iron up as high as it'll go. Then introduce low-melt solder to the joint. This will form (literally!) a bastard mixture of solders, which will result in the panel easily dropping out. Once it's out, flood it with flux again and reintroduce more low melt-on the cranked-up iron. This will immediately melt all the solder, so, at that point, brush the panel with an old suede brush - this will immediately take off excess solder (and your fingerprints!). Final cleaning up can then be achieved with a fibreglass pencil. 

 

There will be some residual 'contamination', but by using higher melting point to re-attach the pieces, the joint will be sound.

 

It's the fastest way of removing excess solder I know of!

 

You'll then be back on your roll, playing the role of a most-competent modeller.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Thanks for this tip, Tony.

I've never thought of introducing low melt into the "mix". I'm going to try this next time i make a monumental cock up, which is bound to be sooner than later!

[FarrMan]

Re removing excess solder/solder in the wrong place, etc., has anyone tried

 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/desoldering-guns-pumps/7719543?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Tools_Whoop-_-Desoldering+Guns+%26+Pumps_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-407067286274&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsIXDmvTx5wIVCbrtCh3MwAiXEAQYAiABEgIBsfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I have observed my son using a similar one for electrical/electronics, sometimes in very delicate operations, and it appears to work very well.

 

Lloyd

[Headstock]

13 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Fixing mistakes, brought to you by the Australian institute of C**kups! 

 

8 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Cheers all for that, I’ve tried my best, I’m not ashamed to say I’ve buggered up. It most definitely isn’t the best, but it will be a good ‘layout coach’. 
 

Sorry Tony for hijacking your thread! 

 

Afternoon Jesse,

 

ditch the layout coach philosophy, it never accounts for much help in these situations, if any. Your ECJS BG is a nice kit, if you want to write it off, I'll have it! I can guarantee I will make more of it than a 'layout coach' (does that mean a c**p coach).

 

The cock up is not really that bad, it looks to be mostly superficial gunk. Many have suggested methods of removing the solder, drawing the solder off and then cleaning up would be my chosen method, but the adding of white metal solder as an option works as well. I suggest removing all of it, not just the excess and from the body of the carriage were the panels are to be attached. Then tin and reapply the panels. If you take your time and do the job properly, you should have something far better than a 'layout coach'and the misstep will not even be noticed in the finished model.

[PaulCheffus]

12 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Does a fibreglass pencil get rid of solder as well? 

Hi

 

In my experience yes you can remove solder with a fibreglass brush but it takes time depending on how thick it is.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Bucoops]

45 minutes ago, FarrMan said:

Re removing excess solder/solder in the wrong place, etc., has anyone tried

 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/desoldering-guns-pumps/7719543?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Tools_Whoop-_-Desoldering+Guns+%26+Pumps_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-407067286274&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsIXDmvTx5wIVCbrtCh3MwAiXEAQYAiABEgIBsfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I have observed my son using a similar one for electrical/electronics, sometimes in very delicate operations, and it appears to work very well.

 

Lloyd

 

 

Very effective for PCB de-soldering, but they work best with a blob rather than a film of solder.

[cctransuk]

1 hour ago, FarrMan said:

Re removing excess solder/solder in the wrong place, etc., has anyone tried

 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/desoldering-guns-pumps/7719543?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Tools_Whoop-_-Desoldering+Guns+%26+Pumps_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-407067286274&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsIXDmvTx5wIVCbrtCh3MwAiXEAQYAiABEgIBsfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I have observed my son using a similar one for electrical/electronics, sometimes in very delicate operations, and it appears to work very well.

 

Lloyd

 

Yes - very effective; but do buy some extra tips when you purchase it.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[cctransuk]

48 minutes ago, PaulCheffus said:

Hi

 

In my experience yes you can remove solder with a fibreglass brush but it takes time depending on how thick it is.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

These are what you need - superb !!

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32798816438.html

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

[Jol Wilkinson]

The late, great,  John Hayes produced very fine etched models (from Finney kits and the like) with no evidence of visible solder. I once asked him how  he did it and he replied that he just used some scrapers made from old hacksaw blades to remove any excess solder. At our next meeting a few weeks later he presented me with a set of left and right handed scrapers and an "etch chisel" as shown on this rather poor photo.

 

 

 

To make things clearer I've attached a simple drawing showing the ground edge of the hacksaw blade (about 45 deg.) which creates the scraper edge (the opposite flat side is the "front" of the scraper). The scraper shapes lets you get at excess solder in corners, awkward places, etc. I've used them for many years and regard them as invaluable, finishing of with a glass fibre brush gives an excellent finish. This photos shows a LRM LNWR Bloomer 2-2-2 etched in .012" brass, soldered with 145 solder, cleaned up in this way.

 

 

JH scrapers.pdf

 

[BMacdermott]

On 25/02/2020 at 19:52, Tony Wright said:

 

Interestingly (unless I've missed something) the recent poll doesn't seem to have a category for loco/rolling stock kits. RTR rules!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Hello Tony and everyone

 

I'm sorry for the slight delay in getting back on this query. My extract below from the Q&A for The 00 Wishlist Poll 2019 should explain the situation.

 

Brian (on behalf of The 00 Poll Team)

 

Do you say if kits are available?

We found that it takes an inordinate amount of time to keep that information up to date, so we haven’t since 2018. However, you will find a link in each category to take you to kit makers and other suppliers. This is – after all – a Poll for ready-to-run items!

[Clive Mortimore]

5 minutes ago, BMacdermott said:

 

Hello Tony and everyone

 

I'm sorry for the slight delay in getting back on this query. My extract below from the Q&A for The 00 Wishlist Poll 2019 should explain the situation.

 

Brian (on behalf of The 00 Poll Team)

 

Do you say if kits are available?

We found that it takes an inordinate amount of time to keep that information up to date, so we haven’t since 2018. However, you will find a link in each category to take you to kit makers and other suppliers. This is – after all – a Poll for ready-to-run items!

Hi Brian

 

I think Tony was referring to the BRM Awards poll.

 

Also missing was a category for those fools who scratchbuild, who is daft enough to make what they want not wait for Mr RTR manufacturer to produce it. How rude.  

[PaulCheffus]

1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

 

These are what you need - superb !!

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32798816438.html

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

Hi

 

Unfortunately its asking me to sign in to see it and I don't have an account for that site. 

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

The late, great,  John Hayes produced very fine etched models (from Finney kits and the like) with no evidence of visible solder. I once asked him how  he did it and he replied that he just used some scrapers made from old hacksaw blades to remove any excess solder. At our next meeting a few weeks later he presented me with a set of left and right handed scrapers and an "etch chisel" as shown on this rather poor photo.

 

 

 

To make things clearer I've attached a simple drawing showing the ground edge of the hacksaw blade (about 45 deg.) which creates the scraper edge (the opposite flat side is the "front" of the scraper). The scraper shapes lets you get at excess solder in corners, awkward places, etc. I've used them for many years and regard them as invaluable, finishing of with a glass fibre brush gives an excellent finish. This photos shows a LRM LNWR Bloomer 2-2-2 etched in .012" brass, soldered with 145 solder, cleaned up in this way.

 

 

JH scrapers.pdf 5.79 kB · 17 downloads

 

Don't forget that the flat scraper needs to be slightly curved, otherwise the corners will dig in when scraping solder off a flat surface.

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Brian

 

I think Tony was referring to the BRM Awards poll.

 

Also missing was a category for those fools who scratchbuild, who is daft enough to make what they want not wait for Mr RTR manufacturer to produce it. How rude.  

Thanks Clive,

 

I was referring to the awards poll (RTR wishlists don't interest me one tiny jot). 

 

It would be nice to think there was a category for 'best kit', but, as has been said before, RTR is so dominant (reflected in the main magazines) as to exclude such things. And, as for a scratch-building..........? No chance!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

1,700 pages - wow!

 

Thanks to all who've contributed to the thread to reach this number. 

 

More RTR to start this post, I'm afraid........

 

 

 

Just in for photography are these two latest OO models from Dapol. Full reviews will be appearing in BRM......

 

At the Glasgow Show, I had with me six (yes six!) complete but unpainted locomotives. This week, I've decided to get (at least two of) them painted. 

 

 

 

 

This is an old McGowan B12/3, bought as a kit at Warley from the stand which had loads of such things. 

 

There's a picture of the real loco leaving Bourne and heading westwards (towards Little Bytham) on page 26 in Railways of Lincolnshire by Paul Anderson (Irwell). The picture was taken 70 years ago! I've copied the condition of the loco, with plenty of weathering. Different lighting conditions have produced slightly different colours among the shots.

 

 

 

I've also painted and weathered this old Nu-Cast O2/3.

 

I don't own an airbrush, so the weathering is sable dry-brushing on top of Halfords car acrylics. Some airbrush weathering can be too uniform; not replicating dribbles and staining caused by gravity.

 

As for some factory-weathering - dirty brown squirted at the lower regions of a model! No thank you. 

 

Of course, both these loco types are now available RTR, and are very good I'm sure (probably better than these - definitely in the case of the B12), but, so what? I've made these, and that's always the most-important element to me.

 

 

Edited February 27, 2020 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[30368]

Please see below!

Edited February 27, 2020 by 30368
Error in quoting!!

[30368]

39 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Of course, both these loco types are now available RTR, and are very good I'm sure (probably better than these - definitely in the case of the B12), but, so what? I've made these, and that's always the most-important element to me.

 

I couldn't agree more Tony. The pleasure and satisfaction of either scratch or kit building a little loco is immense and in some ways painting and weathering them afterwards makes them even more unique.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[APOLLO]

Quick note to Tony that Little Bytham has made a two page spread colour photo in March 2020 "Forward" magazine  - the journal of the Great Central railway society I have just received today. The photo is of a beautiful GC 4-4-0 "Class 2" No 567 and two GC coaches . On the preceding page is another colour photo of a weathered Bachmann D11 passing through Tony's station.

 

Is it possible to post these photos here Tony - they're excellent.

 

Brit15

 

 

[jwealleans]

Are they Tony's photos?  i thought they were credited to Bob Gellatly (but I've already mislaid my copy and i only opened it an hour ago).

Edited February 27, 2020 by jwealleans

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, APOLLO said:

Quick note to Tony that Little Bytham has made a two page spread colour photo in March 2020 "Forward" magazine  - the journal of the Great Central railway society I have just received today. The photo is of a beautiful GC 4-4-0 "Class 2" No 567 and two GC coaches . On the preceding page is another colour photo of a weathered Bachmann D11 passing through Tony's station.

 

Is it possible to post these photos here Tony - they're excellent.

 

Brit15

 

 

Are these what you mean?

 

 

 

 

And finally 'Snap'!

 

 

This is my own weathered (and renumbered/renamed/detailed) Bachmann 'Director'.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[cctransuk]

4 hours ago, PaulCheffus said:

Hi

 

Unfortunately its asking me to sign in to see it and I don't have an account for that site. 

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Then I would strongly advise opening an account - you will be astonished on what is available and at the incredibly low prices; (it's only the Chinese version of Ebay, and I used it without problem for years).

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

 

 

 

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[Clearwater]

6 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

These are what you need - superb !!

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32798816438.html

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

sort of thing that an enterprising tools company like Eileens good buy in bulk and sell.

 

david