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New Hornby computer based DCC system - eLink


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Quick question about the eLink and reading decoders. Can it tell you which manufacturer's decoder is in a DCC fitted loco and also which specific decoder is in there? Even if it's not a Hornby decoder?

 

I am trying to find out which DCC decoder Hornby fitted to a model of 2006/7 vintage but due to limited space constraints in the house at the moment it's not really possible for me to set the eLink to look. I'm hoping that when I can set it up I'll be able to see this information.

 

Anybody know the answer?

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It would probably be the R8215, the forerunner of the R8249.  At one time Hornby were exchanging the older decoders for the newer ones due to the problems with the R8215.  The R8249 supports 4 figure addresses and CV reading while the R8215 is 2 digit addresses only and no CV reading.

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Quick question about the eLink and reading decoders. Can it tell you which manufacturer's decoder is in a DCC fitted loco and also which specific decoder is in there? Even if it's not a Hornby decoder?

For any decoder, if you can read CV8 (manufacturer) and CV7 (version number), then you have a clue as to the decoder fitted. Some manufacturers have better version numbering with more CVs which will give an exact match, others you can't do better than manufacturer.

 

The NMRA publish a list of decoder makers against CV8. Or, there is the list from the JMRI software which has most makers and version numbers

 

http://jmri.org/xml/decoderIndex.xml

 

 

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Quick question about the eLink and reading decoders. Can it tell you which manufacturer's decoder is in a DCC fitted loco and also which specific decoder is in there? Even if it's not a Hornby decoder?

 

I am trying to find out which DCC decoder Hornby fitted to a model of 2006/7 vintage but due to limited space constraints in the house at the moment it's not really possible for me to set the eLink to look. I'm hoping that when I can set it up I'll be able to see this information.

 

Anybody know the answer?

If it is an R8215 the best way of programming it is into the dustbin! :jester:

They are awful, anything available today is better. Even after the R8249 was released Hornby carried on fitting them in the "DCC Fitted" locos (to use up stocks?)

 

Keith

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For any decoder, if you can read CV8 (manufacturer) and CV7 (version number), then you have a clue as to the decoder fitted. Some manufacturers have better version numbering with more CVs which will give an exact match, others you can't do better than manufacturer.

 

The NMRA publish a list of decoder makers against CV8. Or, there is the list from the JMRI software which has most makers and version numbers

 

http://jmri.org/xml/decoderIndex.xml

 

Thanks! Most useful.

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If it is an R8215 the best way of programming it is into the dustbin! :jester:

They are awful, anything available today is better. Even after the R8249 was released Hornby carried on fitting them in the "DCC Fitted" locos (to use up stocks?)

 

Keith

 

So I heard! I only got back into all this relatively recently after 30 years away, and had no idea initially that there was any problem with early Hornby DCC stuff..but I did read fairly early on about how rubbish that R2815 decoder is (or shold I say was!)

 

The loco in question is a Hornby "Hereward The Wake" Britannia Class. Going to have the name changed and renumbered so it becomes Alfred The Great anyway but it's the DCC fitted version R2619X that I recently got. So I'm hoping the eLink will be able to tell me if it's a wretched R2815 in there!

 

The R2849 I think was introduced in 2007 I believe. The loco came out around that time, certainly the non-DCC fitted version did according to hornbyguide.com. There's no mention of the DCC fitted version on hornbyguide.com but I would imagine that both DCC ready and DCC fitted versions of this model came out in '07. Like you say, Hornby might have been fitting the R2815 for a while after the R2849 came out to use up stocks. The paper bits inside the box are generic instructions for Britannia class - no mention of which DCC decoder is fitted.

 

I also have a Bachmann Class 37 which I bought from someone who had bought it from its original owner in perfect mint condition. It was owned by someone in Holland originally. It's a green one, 32-782, and is DCC fitted. But they had no way of testing it on DCC, although is was tested and works fine on DC.

 

The weird thing is the detail pack is unopened and there is a blanking plate in there, suggesting that the DCC decoder was fitted by Bachmann. This loco was never sold by Bachmann as DCC fitted, as far as I know, and the packaging and box makes no mention of it. Very strange. I'm hoping eLink might help solve that mystery too, by identifying what DCC decoder is in there. Of course there's not proof that the thing was fitted with DCC in this way, and even if the original owner fitted that doesn't explain the unopened detail pack with blanking plate! I'm hoping the eLink might be able to shed some light on the matter (detailing pack mystery aside).

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The detailing pack could be from a different model but provided by the seller to make the purchase  more complete.

 

Yes that is possible. I only hope it's for a pristine Bachmann green Class 37! I don't have another model to compare it, only blue ones (unless the detail pack is the same for blue as it is for green, I don't know).

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Scarm (track planning s/w allows you to import a background picture that you can build track parts onto. I'm sure with a bit of creative writing RM could do similar even if only to use as a guide to laying their track parts.

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  • 5 months later...
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Hello, I'm new to DCC and just bought my first train set! I am starting out with the R1172 Set and it comes with an eLink, but a problem I'm facing is the one I bought is coming from New Zeland, and I'm in the US does anyone know of a site that has a 115v power supply?

 

Just looked and New Zealand use either 2 or 3 flat pin types of sockets at 220-240v ac.

You will need a converter(Which I can't find) or just buy a power supply locally to suit.

 

I think the E-Link comes with a standard 'Wall Wart' type of power supply, so it probably wont fit the US type of socket.

In which case you will need to buy a 115v AC to 15v DC transformer up to a max of 4amps.

 

The Hornby 4amp power supply states an input of 220-240v AC drawing 1.5amps. The output is 15v DC giving 4amps.

 

So you should be able to find a local stockist of a SMPS(Switch mode power supply) which will be able to plug into your wall socket to be powered by 115v AC the output needs to be the 15v DC max 4amps.

I'm not too sure what the connector is which will plug into the E-Link so you will need to check that out.

 

This is from RSWWW(radio spares in the UK)

 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/plug-in-power-supply/8326666/

 

The mains lead can be replaced and a local one bought to plug into your wall socket.

Input voltage from 100 to 240v AC.

It can be adjusted to give different output voltages, looking at the data sheet 15v DC output at 4.5amps which should be fine.

It's expensive but RS are! you might be able to find something the same locally cheaper.

 

Hope this information helps.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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So you should be able to find a local stockist of a SMPS(Switch mode power supply) which will be able to plug into your wall socket to be powered by 115v AC the output needs to be the 15v DC max 4amps.

I'm not too sure what the connector is which will plug into the E-Link so you will need to check that out.

 

Well there's the Hornby US-market power supply I linked in the previous post  :blum:

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Well there's the Hornby US-market power supply I linked in the previous post  :blum:

 

That Amazon link shows C7042 which is shown on most of the UK web sites.

The USA part number is C7033.

 

This shows the USA one from Ebay:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCALEXTRIC-Hornby-C7033-POWER-SUPPLY-USA-VOLTAGE/331366294025?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D9bdcb6f5fb7344838eb9ea46ea4327f4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D331470830398&rt=nc

 

I didn't get a link initially for the Hornby USA one, nothing came up which is why I gave the information for a different type.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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That Amazon link shows C7042 which is shown on most of the UK web sites.

The USA part number is C7033.

Hmm. That's interesting. The Amazon Q&A does state that it's a US model and it's sold by Amazon, not a reseller so it should be pukka.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Upgrading to the 4A power supply is pretty much essential, even for a small trainset layout. The trainset I have is a pretty standard 8x4 double oval with some sidings and even with this quite modest set up we hit the limits of the as supplied 1A power supply very quickly. That said, I really am a fan of this package, I've found it user friendly and easy to use, it has a lot of functionality and my little lad loves the PC interface. For the price it is an absolute bargain and makes it sensible to go directly to DCC for new starters in my opinion.

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I use the E-link for my N gauge layout and it works on the 1amp supply with 5 loco's on track but I can only run 2 at once. I find it useful for reading chips but it will not read any that are not in the data base supplied with the software, i.e. Locsound V4 or Zimo sound chips, reads once upto CV8 then changes all values to 255 and reports decoder not in data base!

 

hope this is of use

 

mike g

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  • 5 months later...

Is eLink limited to Windows? I have a Macbook and iPad which I would like to work it on.  

 

I also read on the Amazon reviews that you have to pay extra to load the system on to more than one computer. I will need it running on separate control devices for up to three "drivers". Is this possible?

 

Ian

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I think the elink and railmaster software will run under parallels on macs. You can only run one licensed and registered copy of railmaster on a single PC but you can have an unregisterd copy on another machine. If you de-register the first copy you can then register the second copy without any further payment. You can repeat this register/de-register process as many times as you like and transfer track plans etc between machines as needed.

 

Each handheld device (smartphone etc) used as a throttle has to have a paid for copy of the app, so if you have two phones you will need to buy two copies. About £5 per app, I think.

 

There is a pro version add on available at extra cost which may be worth having if you like the basic version.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Will the new Sig-naTrak ACE by GFB Designs be a similar system to Railmaster /Elink and does it seem to be, from the ad. a better proposition ?

 

Also does anyone have the Big Bear software downloaded and if so how is it ?

 

I am just looking around for alternatives to Hornby Railmaster/ELink which I can`t get to work on Windows 10 and would like a system which actually does what that system is supposed to do but at the same time I don`t want to spend hundreds of pounds 

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Will the new Sig-naTrak ACE by GFB Designs be a similar system to Railmaster /Elink and does it seem to be, from the ad. a better proposition ?

 

Also does anyone have the Big Bear software downloaded and if so how is it ?

 

I am just looking around for alternatives to Hornby Railmaster/ELink which I can`t get to work on Windows 10 and would like a system which actually does what that system is supposed to do but at the same time I don`t want to spend hundreds of pounds 

 

The Sig-na Trak ACE is a DCC controller, it just has a touch screen instead of the usual push buttons or rotary knob.

RailMaster and Elink is completely different.

 

RailMaster is software that runs on the PC and Elink is the interface between the layout and the PC, not really the same thing at all.

Can't help with Big Bear software at all.

 

You could try a SPROG running the JMRI free software to control your layout.

 

I have found although not running Windows 10, you need to follow the installation instructions that come with RailMaster to the letter or it just won't work.

The support you get from them is also very good and they will talk you through getting it working if required.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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Don't want to spend 00's pounds - Try Rocrail - totally comprehensive in its ability to control a layout of any size - supports most kit, is easy to install and configure, fully documented,  has the most friendly and helpful forum you could wish for, and is updated nightly - oh and its free, but you may contribute if feeling benevolent.

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