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Hornby P2


Dick Turpin
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I noticed that a TTS sound version has just been released - does anyone know if this is just the Railroad version with noise added?

Or is it a proper working version of the P2? Thanks...

Edited by Bill
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Righteo,

My Railroad P2 has arrived and these are my impressions of it.

For the princely bargain price of 82 quid (Delivered to Oz) I have to say it's a very reasonable engine.

It does have Cab Glazing (which was a surprise), Nice wheels all around (not like what ever those things are on the crosti's front bogie), the majority of lining out, done to a pretty good standard. It also has open roof vent's (one fully and one 1/2 open) but I am unable to open / close them any further and cant be sure if they are moulded as such or just stuck.

 

The vertical hand rails on cab and tender are moulded but could do with a lick of paint as per the full fat version, horizontal handrails along boiler etc are very good and appear to be separate items. But also could do with a lick of paint. 

Cab detail is ok but I will also get the brushes out for that.

 

Lettering and numbering are single colour gold and not shaded like the full fat version should be (I have the decals to rectify this). The wheels are not lined out as per the expensive version but I can live with that.

All in all a good amount of detail for the money and leaves a fair amount of scope for the average person to improve if they should wish to, without having to be a master modeller or worrying about wrecking a 150 pound model.

 

The Motor ----

I have only a small test track in use at the moment but I have a pretty high quality DC controller and it can make low speed control of "difficult" engines better than with lower spec controllers. Even with this however it is very obvious that the 3 pole and flywheel do not move off anywhere near as smoothly as my engines (Railroad and Full Fat) with the 5 pole ( - I checked several back to back over the same bit of track and that's what I found to be the case!) Further running in may improve things however and if that proves to be  true and the 3 pole ends up as good as the 5 pole I shall retract this statement. (Those running DCC or other possible variations on a theme, may find that it's a different scenario for them)

 

The Flywheel does go some way towards helping the engine over the cr*p points on my test track but not as good as extra pick ups in the tender of my  A1's and A4's. It definitely makes a slight difference when the engines are run without tenders. Although that's probably a moot point.

 

In my opinion - for the money, it's a good deal.

It's not terrible, straight out of the box and I can get the finer detailing to a standard I'm happy with for very little money and actually do a bit of modelling. If the "Nothing, Nothing, Jump" nature of the 3 pole doesn't improve with running in, I will replace it with a 5 pole as per a previous post and perhaps fit some capacitors as well to compensate for the lack of tender pick ups and removal of the flywheeled motor.

 

I was considering the Full Fat version, but I think I'll just stick with this one (save a truck load of $$$) and have a bit of fun tarting her up.

But again these are just my thoughts and others may have a different view and I respect that.

 

Edited to tidy up something that came across a bit negative, not my intention. Sorry.

Edited by The Blue Streak
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Righteo,

. If the "Nothing, Nothing, Jump" nature of the 3 pole doesn't improve with running in, I will replace it with a 5 pole as per a previous post and perhaps fit some capacitors as well to compensate for the lack of tender pick ups and removal of the flywheeled motor.

 

What exactly are these capacitors you might fit?

As the amount of capacitance required to overcome dead spots is quite considerable and needs to be non polarised, I'm curious!

 

Keith

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What exactly are these capacitors you might fit?

As the amount of capacitance required to overcome dead spots is quite considerable and needs to be non polarised, I'm curious!

 

Keith

 

Hi Keith,

If you look back about half a dozen posts there is a post where a member fitted a couple of capacitors and it seemed to make a small amount of difference, whether that was actual or perceived I don't know but it certainly looked better in the video.  I am hoping that once the current motor has run in properly it will smooth out a little in which case I will retain it and it's flywheel.

Do You feel that the capacitor idea has little merit? I would be grateful for further input if that's the case.

Regards Ted

 

Edit - Having Trawled back through the P2 thread again I have found the answer to my own question

 

"No need for the capacitors really! I have found they make only the slightest difference".

 

for the record however I was thinking along these lines http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100UF-16V-NON-POLARISED-ELECTROLYTIC-CAPACITOR-25-PACK-/120551082052?hash=item1c11678844

 

but thank you anyway.

Edited by The Blue Streak
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Hi Keith,

If you look back about half a dozen posts there is a post where a member fitted a couple of capacitors and it seemed to make a small amount of difference, whether that was actual or perceived I don't know but it certainly looked better in the video.  I am hoping that once the current motor has run in properly it will smooth out a little in which case I will retain it and it's flywheel.

Do You feel that the capacitor idea has little merit? I would be grateful for further input if that's the case.

Regards Ted

 

Edit - Having Trawled back through the P2 thread again I have found the answer to my own question

 

"No need for the capacitors really! I have found they make only the slightest difference".

 

for the record however I was thinking along these lines http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100UF-16V-NON-POLARISED-ELECTROLYTIC-CAPACITOR-25-PACK-/120551082052?hash=item1c11678844

 

but thank you anyway.

 

The problem with using capacitors as an electronic flywheel is that you need a very large value.

IMHO 100μF wouldn't do much (if anything) at all.

 

Keith

Edited by melmerby
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Thanks Keith,

I see what you are saying, it would take a fair amount of these wired up in parallel to make any reasonable difference.

I realise I may be drifting o/t here, but just as a matter of curiosity, do you think 5 or 6 100uf capacitors wired in parallel (not that there is likely to be sufficient room in the loco) would make any difference in theory ?

 

Perhaps someone could please point me in the direction of a more appropriate topic or discussion thread, so I don't drag this one too far away from the subject of P2's.

Regards Ted

Edited by The Blue Streak
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  • 2 weeks later...

For anybody who wants one but hasn't already got one, I see Hatton's are knocking out the Railroad version for £55. 

 

Cheaper than a Bachmann Auto-coach but not much use on a GWR Branch line............ :jester:

 

John

I have just been on the phone to Hattons after seeing the P2 advertised at this price, unfortunately however, this batch are the 2013/14 release spec complete with plastic front buffers rather than the updated 2015 spec, the latest version have the turned metal, non-sprung variety. This is also confirmed by the model picture on their website.

Edited by Black 5 Bear
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Anyone got any pics of the recent release P2's?

 

I shall try and get one done in the next day or two.

 

 

 

Edit to add photo of Railway version (it is the new one with metal buffers but for some odd reason they came out black in the pics. but I can assure everyone they are metallic) - as you can see I have done nothing yet, the new decals etc are still sitting in the cupboard and the brake pipes and other add on parts are still taped to the polystyrene inner box. You can't rush things tho can you ?  ;)

 

Still at least due to my Lack of any sort of progress, you chaps can see it as it's come out of the box. In it's unmodified state.

 

Also I have to mention that until I looked at the pictures I can't say I really noticed where the handrails are attached and come through on the inside of the smoke deflectors. I was kind of horrified when I saw the pictures. Digital Cameras and Flash are very cruel. Even now I know they are there, I can't really see them at normal viewing distance in normal light.

P2_zpsw3a3iaci.jpg

 

p2a_zpscrcabm7i.jpg

Edited by The Blue Streak
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Ted, do you have decals to line the entire loco? (i.e. the white and black lining)

 I did order a set along with the Lettering and number transfers, but can only find my Numerals and Letter sheet when I just went to look. I have obviously put them somewhere "safe".

 

But if you are looking to buy some look here - http://www.hmrs.org.uk/transfers/transferdetails.php?transferid=1008

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are the metal buffers available a spare parts yet ? it would be good is Hornby did packs of metal buffers to fit the railroad P2 Tornado and the duke of Gloucester 

Peter Spares has a lot of Hornby buffers available. I'm sure something will suit it

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I have just been on the phone to Hattons after seeing the P2 advertised at this price, unfortunately however, this batch are the 2013/14 release spec complete with plastic front buffers rather than the updated 2015 spec, the latest version have the turned metal, non-sprung variety. This is also confirmed by the model picture on their website.

I assumed they would be at that price.

 

However, Bachmann do packs of LNER/SR pattern sprung loco buffers (36-035) that should fit quite easily. Enough to do two locos for under a fiver.

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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I assumed they would be at that price.

 

However, Bachmann do packs of LNER/SR pattern sprung loco buffers (36-035) that should fit quite easily. Enough to do two locos for under a fiver.

 

John

Wrong type. LNER Pacifics normally used Spencer Moulton Front Buffers, the Bachmann pattern mentioned above only used on the Tender.

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Got my loco from Hattons today. For 55 sheets, all I can say is wow! It's a massively impressive loco to look at, even with half the lining missing. It's also just a massive loco full stop. Mine appears to be the new batch with metal buffers, so I'm guessing everyone will now get that style. I had a few running issues with it at first, it kept dive bombing itself off the track. There's nothing wrong with the track, I can propel full length WCML push pull rakes through that area full tilt with no problems. I think one problem is the wheel base is so long, an undulations in the track can cause the trailing truck to slip off the rails, as it has no flanges, this in turn flings the whole thing off the track. Secondly, the leading truck has some bizarre arrangement, which makes it crab going round corners. I'm not sure this helps the stability of the front end. I changed the line its on to one with slightly easier curves and she's now trundling round with no issues. I think Hornbys minimum 2nd radius curves is a bit optimistic, the loco is just too big for it to be reliable round corners. The other issue is something everyone else is having issues with, nothing, nothing, full speed! I'm hoping running it in will help with that. Other than that, I'm very, very happy with it. I'm turning it into a preserved loco, so I'll be adding warning flashes to it, and she'll be pulling my charter set. Anyone know what else was added to steam locos in the 1980s so they could run on the main line?

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Got my loco from Hattons today. For 55 sheets, all I can say is wow! It's a massively impressive loco to look at, even with half the lining missing. It's also just a massive loco full stop. Mine appears to be the new batch with metal buffers, so I'm guessing everyone will now get that style. I had a few running issues with it at first, it kept dive bombing itself off the track. There's nothing wrong with the track, I can propel full length WCML push pull rakes through that area full tilt with no problems. I think one problem is the wheel base is so long, an undulations in the track can cause the trailing truck to slip off the rails, as it has no flanges, this in turn flings the whole thing off the track. Secondly, the leading truck has some bizarre arrangement, which makes it crab going round corners. I'm not sure this helps the stability of the front end. I changed the line its on to one with slightly easier curves and she's now trundling round with no issues. I think Hornbys minimum 2nd radius curves is a bit optimistic, the loco is just too big for it to be reliable round corners. The other issue is something everyone else is having issues with, nothing, nothing, full speed! I'm hoping running it in will help with that. Other than that, I'm very, very happy with it. I'm turning it into a preserved loco, so I'll be adding warning flashes to it, and she'll be pulling my charter set. Anyone know what else was added to steam locos in the 1980s so they could run on the main line?

Thanks for the heads up re the spec, just ordered one from Hatton's as we speak.....

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Replacement buffers for the P2 and Duke of Gloucester are available from Lanarkshire Models & Supplies - LB06B and LB11A, of-course one has to paint them but then that's what modeling is all about.

 

Dave Franks

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