Project 43 - The North British B-B Warships

[stovepipe]

There's a couple of good front end photos here which illustrate the point quite nicely.

 

http://railphotoprints.zenfolio.com/p626348739/h10b57f74#h10b57f74

http://railphotoprints.zenfolio.com/p626348739/h21e5a7eb#h21e5a7eb

 

and a Swindon one for comparison.

 

http://railphotoprints.zenfolio.com/p737633479/h30723446#h30723446

 

I can certainly live with it, but it is one of the few external distinguishing features.

Edited August 15, 2015 by stovepipe

[Ben04uk]

In my view the headcodes that comes with the Bachmann model are not the best - can anyone recommend any better ones?

[Rugd1022]

In my view the headcodes that comes with the Bachmann model are not the best - can anyone recommend any better ones?

 

Heljan Western / Hymek headcodes should be just the job Ben, trim to fit, run a black felt tip around the edges, press them in to fit and Bob's your father's brother 

[Ben04uk]

Cheers.

 

What about Precision Labels / Fox Transfers / Model Master / Railtec? Do they do any? 

[cctransuk]

Heljan Western / Hymek headcodes should be just the job Ben, trim to fit, run a black felt tip around the edges, press them in to fit and Bob's your father's brother 

 

I'm afraid that I can't agree - the Hymek ones at least are way too small.

 

To see the improvement that larger characters make, see post #50 at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98857-building-a-4mm-scale-mpd-midland-3f-0-6-0/page-2 .

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[Phil Bullock]

You wont go far wrong with Precision Labels Ben

 

All our locos have then and will be fitting to our 43s too - suspect the smaller of the sizes will work best

 

Phil

[tarifa]

Interesting review of the Class 43 so much so that when I had the opportunity to handle and inspect the blue one I was impressed but I was not tempted to spend my £119 having bought a blue and maroon version of the previous issue for less than £44 each.  They have slept in my box for some time only being run to test they did run.  I have now done some work on the Maroon one by fitting EE grills and fans, replacing the side handrails to the cabin with SS 0.4mm dia wire.  Both ends are now full buffer beam detail including screw-link couplings.  The buffers are replaced with Hornby oval buffers.  I messed up the exhaust ports but ???.  Sound is on-board, the speaker is custom made in the fuel tanks.

 

Thumb nail photo attached.

 

 

Mike

Edited August 16, 2015 by tarifa

[Phil Bullock]

Superduper

 

What sound files are in her Mike - and what 43 is she destined to become?

 

Phil

[tarifa]

What sound files are in her Mike - and what 43 is she destined to become?

 

Phil

Thanks Phil,

 

Praise indeed from you.

 

I loaded my sound into a V4.  The sound is better due to the custom made base reflex speaker, BTW the warship sound is different to the western except at speed when it is similar.  I'm still fine tuning the sound program, trial and error don't you know.  I will probably run my hydraulics at the Lydney show in September.  I'm making up the lamp irons similar to the ones I made for one of my old Warships

 

 

Mike

[Phil Bullock]

When is the Lydney show Mike?

 

Phil

[tarifa]

Details of the Lydney Show

 

The 2015 Lydney show is to be held on 26^th and 27^th September, Like last year we will using the Dean academy (formerly Whitecross School), which is 200 yards further down the road from the Town Hall. Show timings are to be 11:00 until 17:00 on Saturday and 10:00 until 16:00 on Sunday.

 

Mike

[Downendian]

Any tips on fitting the roof vents and lifting rings?

 

I've had a look at D865 this weekend, and crickey yet more evidence that eyesight isn't what it was. The open vents don't go in sweetly as I'd like and certainly I'll be fitting with a dab of something sticky. I'm going to thread the rings onto a length of ultra fine monofilament fishing line so that the carpet monster doesn't eat them.

 

Neil

[No Decorum]

For those confident in their abilities, they're no problem. Chris Leigh says in his "Model Rail" review that it took him 45 minutes to fit all the bits. For those such as myself, with no abilities to have confidence in, it's a different matter. I took the roof off, picked up one ring at a time on the point of a pin (they're too small to slide down the shaft) and, holding it in place with a knife blade, lowered it into the hole. With four done, I smeared liquid poly with a brush from underneath, with the body the right way up. Allow capillary attraction to do its work but don't on any account allow gravity to interfere, or you'll get a mess on the roof. Guess how I found out.

 

Soothing cup of tea before tackling another four. The cabs need to be removed to enable the end ones to be glued. When I've finished, I'll come to love these gorgeous models again.

 

Incidentally, I've never thought cab lights coming on at both ends simultaneously to be realistic. Assuming that the model will be garnished at one end and have a hook at the other, it's easy with the body off to unplug the cab light at the hook end.

[Gwiwer]

Cab lights being on at both ends on anything is just plain wrong.

 

Cab lights should not be on while running in any event.

 

I just disconnect mine while remembering the little bit extra factored into the price I've paid for these gadgets not all of us want or really need.

[Andy Y]

Any tips on fitting the roof vents and lifting rings?

 

I've had a look at D865 this weekend, and crickey yet more evidence that eyesight isn't what it was. The open vents don't go in sweetly as I'd like and certainly I'll be fitting with a dab of something sticky. I'm going to thread the rings onto a length of ultra fine monofilament fishing line so that the carpet monster doesn't eat them.

 

Neil

 

I chose to hold down each ring onto a hard glass surface (cutting mats have too much give) and cut the fret away from the ring's stem. I could then pick them up with tweezers, smear a little superglue on with a cocktail stick point and place into the hole with a steadied hand. The rings are a good fit so there wasn't too much fighting or swearing involved.

[No Decorum]

Agreed but on reflection: cab door slam, cab light on, engine start, cab light off. That is, when someone does a sound project.

[rembrow]

I chose to hold down each ring onto a hard glass surface (cutting mats have too much give) and cut the fret away from the ring's stem. I could then pick them up with tweezers, smear a little superglue on with a cocktail stick point and place into the hole with a steadied hand. The rings are a good fit so there wasn't too much fighting or swearing involved.

I agree with Andy's method up until using tweezers. I used them when fitting the similar Dapol Western roof rings and lost about 1 in 6 due to tweezer 'ping'. I read from someone else (name escapes me), that they made a tool from slightly oversize plastic rod, which was tapered at the end with wet and dry to fit through and be an interference fit with the hole in the lifting eye. This made sure the eye was tight on the tool and the tool could be held without having to apply pressure.

[Hilux5972]

With the switches underneath, does turning off the tail lights automatically work when the loco is running in either Direction? Or is there a dedicated front and rear of the loco? Similarly does the can switch turn off both lights or just the rear cab light?

[MG 7305]

To fit the lifting rings, I use a (track) pin through the eye of the ring. Press the pin in to get an interference fit when cutting off the fret so it becomes easy to handle.  You get something to hold onto and clear sight when fitting.  A finger on top once located to ensure a proper fit and pull the pin out (be careful Mr Mannering!)

 

Best regards

[Gwiwer]

The 43s have arrived in Australia after a very quick passage.

 

They look superb though are still in boxes for now.

 

32-067 "Royal Oak" also has to go back for exchange as the box labelled thus contains 32-066 "Pegasus" in green.  As I already have one of those, having ordered all three and not really needing a duplicate, it's heading back to Camborne though the mistake is no fault of the retailer.

[No Decorum]

With the switches underneath, does turning off the tail lights automatically work when the loco is running in either Direction? Or is there a dedicated front and rear of the loco? Similarly does the can switch turn off both lights or just the rear cab light?

With the tail switch off, the tail lights are off whichever way the locomotive is running. Both cab lights are either on or off at the same time. Dapol scored here by making the cab lights directionally controlled.

[Phil Bullock]

Agreed but on reflection: cab door slam, cab light on, engine start, cab light off. That is, when someone does a sound project.

Hang on a mo.....

 

Is that the sound of MAN diesels I hear approaching Norton Junction on a down working from Oxford?

 

Hee hee

 

https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/product/NBL/BR%20class%2043%20Warship%20(MAN)%20D833%20-%20D865%20diesel%20hydraulic%20sound%20decoder%20and%20speaker%20(21)

 

Phil

Edited August 18, 2015 by Phil Bullock

[colbard]

Hi all,

Just received my BR Blue 842 Warship which is now sitting next to my Dapol weathered BR Blue Western and I have to say I find it sadly lacking in comparison.

Level of refinement and detail pack doesn't seem to be on a par with the Dapol class 52.

No etched plates

The BR arrows are too thick

Most of the detail pack parts seem too thick

Essentially I'm an n gauge man but have a few OO gauge models for a diorama.

Why do Bachmann use those horrible couplings?

Looking for advice/ideas to upgrade it and hopefully make me feel pleased with my purchase

Thanks,


colbard

[Phil Bullock]

MAN engined Warship was D843 Sharpshooter

 

Has now reversed at Worcester and arrived in Churchdown....

 

 

Phil

Edited August 18, 2015 by Phil Bullock

[Phil Bullock]

Hi all,

 

Just received my BR Blue 842 Warship which is now sitting next to my Dapol weathered BR Blue Western and I have to say I find it sadly lacking in comparison.

 

Level of refinement and detail pack doesn't seem to be on a par with the Dapol class 52.

 

No etched plates

 

The BR arrows are too thick

 

Most of the detail pack parts seem too thick

 

Essentially I'm an n gauge man but have a few OO gauge models for a diorama.

 

Why do Bachmann use those horrible couplings?

 

Looking for advice/ideas to upgrade it and hopefully make me feel pleased with my purchase

 

Thanks,

 

 

colbard

Hi there

 

Agree re the nameplate and arrows - get the model strip paste out and take them off! Replace Arrows with Fox Transfers Arrows from set F4300 and nameplates of choice from Extreme etchings - other suppliers are of course available but that's what we use

 

Couplings? In to spares box and fit wire coupling loops - easy on these hydraulics with deep buffer beams

 

Super detailing parts are also a bit heavy but others are available as spares if preferred - check photo before fitting the MU cable

 

HTH

 

Phil