Great British Locomotives

[Catkins]

The end of the published series does not spell the end of is thread.

 

How many people (other than me) have been collecting and stock-pilling these for future work? 

Edited July 25, 2015 by Catkins

[darrel]

With the pile I have stockpiled this thread could run for years

[WD0-6-0]

I'd like to share my work today too.

I had a Bachmann, Swindon built Ivatt mogul, I bought it a few years ago and soon decided I didn't like it. Here it is now.

This uses the boiler and chassis from the Bachmann Ivatt (as done by Coachmann? And no doubt others before and since)

I now need to source a rear pony and wheels (if anyone can direct me to the Coachmann article I'd appreciate it but I believe it's gone) build rear frames add coal and probably a few other things I've forgotten. Here it is anyway.

[46256]

I have enjoyed this thread for any number of reasons...the initial anticipation of each new model...the speculation...the arrival....or not subject to availability....the photos and reviews....and yes I do miss the in depth ones of a former contributor. I have made a very good friend in rowanj and enjoyed correspondence with a number of others. I have been in awe of some of the modelling...been directed to other excellent blogs. The main thing I have ...and continue to have is fun. My razor saw has seen more action than Sweeney todds razor...and with similar effect on a number of unsuspecting GBL and Hornby bodies. I have shown my efforts, and if some have not quite hit the mark....well I'm glad to say my peers have been gracious in their comments or lack of them. I am currently working on an A2/2. I had intended to use the forthcoming A2... However for a variety of reasons....mostly impatience in wanting to get started...anyway a GBL v2.....Hornby a3....have so far been sacrificed...a se finecast a2 chassis is on order....what an excellent gentleman dave at that company is....anyway non corridor tender from e bay....the photo is from yesterday...lot of work earlier making the distinctive washout plugs on fire box....will show these and other work tomorrow...in conclusion...what I'm hoping to achieve is a passable layout loco from these excellent starting points...and a cure for insomnia....

[Il Grifone]

Wednesdays won't be the same without the trip to Asda......

 

The spaceships seem to still be* ongoing, but I only got the first one...

 

* If a split infinitive is good enough for 'Star Trek'..........

[Horsetan]

The Western is definitely still ongoing.

 

This weekend, I've been having a go at the Heljan buffer beam aprons which, compared to the real thing (and the Dapol effort), are distinctly weedy and underfed:

 

 

Even the NEM coupler-compliant Dapol apron still carries bulk despite having a slot cut into it. Compare that to these:

 

 

15thou styrene is used to create a pair of "splitters". Note that they have a slight peak:

 

 

All the angles used are identical to the bottom section of the Heljan apron but the idea is to turn the resulting splitter through 90 degrees, with the peak pointing to the front, and glue it to the bottom of the apron.

 

Edited July 27, 2015 by Horsetan

[Londontram]

I still have a few T9 to bash into Scottish locos which should keep me going for a while

[cypherman]

Hi all,

I have a couple more old H-D loco's that I will be stripping and repainting,As to be honest they are a complete mess. I was considering using nitromores to strip them with. What should i use to neutralise any left over nitromores on the body shells before i start to paint them.Is soap and water ok or do I need to buy a neutralising solution.

Also what tape do you recommend for masking.I have some tape that was recommended to me by a friend, but it leaves a nasty residue behind that has to be cleaned off.

 

 

Thanks

Edited July 26, 2015 by cypherman

[46256]

Hi all,

I have a couple more old H-D loco's that I will be stripping and repainting,As to be honest they are a complete mess. I was considering using nitromores to strip them with. What should i use to neutralise any left over nitromores on the body shells before i start to paint them.Is soap and water ok or do I need to buy a neutralising solution.

Also what tape do you recommend for masking.I have some tape that was recommended to me by a friend, but it leaves a nasty residue behind that has to be cleaned off.

 

 

Thanks

cypherman won't give the advice asked for ref nitro moors and masking tape...I sure from previous correspondence there are others who can give this better than I. I want however to compliment you on the painting and in the case of the n2 lining out...welcome back to the hobby

[Il Grifone]

Hi all,

I have a couple more old H-D loco's that I will be stripping and repainting,As to be honest they are a complete mess. I was considering using nitromores to strip them with. What should i use to neutralise any left over nitromores on the body shells before i start to paint them.Is soap and water ok or do I need to buy a neutralising solution.

Also what tape do you recommend for masking.I have some tape that was recommended to me by a friend, but it leaves a nasty residue behind that has to be cleaned off.

 

 

Thanks

 

I used caustic soda (drain cleaner from a pound shop - as a paste not a spray - watch the fumes and it's highly corrosive, as is Nitromors) to strip the last one I did. Neutralise with lots of water and a mild acid (eg vinegar). Since it's intended for cleaning drains, disposal shouldn't be too much of a problem, though the paint contamination might be. I've always just used plenty of water with Nitromors, but don't know if this is the best solution - I'm not keen on using the stuff.

 

If the problem is overpainting, brake fluid will just shift the top layers, if not left too long (Dublo paint is very tough!). This should not be poured down the drain however.

 

I tried Tamiya tape (seeing it recommended on line). It seems excellent, but I still have to try removing it. I was leaving the paint to dry...... (light green stripe on a Dublo Deltic).

Edited July 26, 2015 by Il Grifone

[Smiffy2]

Arrived home yesterday to find my second LN. Excellent example, well painted and tampoed. I think I'll keep it as is, with a bit of painting and a coat of matt varnish. The other one will go early - Maunsell livery and no smoke deflectors. 

[Nick Gough]

Does anyone have a spare GBL County that they would like to sell please?

[Nile]

Arrived home yesterday to find my second LN. Excellent example, well painted and tampoed. I think I'll keep it as is, with a bit of painting and a coat of matt varnish. The other one will go early - Maunsell livery and no smoke deflectors. 

 

And cut down tender sides, they were a Bulleid addition.

[Smiffy2]

And cut down tender sides, they were a Bulleid addition.

Good point...

 

I've just discovered that the steam pipes behind the smoke deflectors are simple square mouldings, so they will also have to be replaced.

[lightengine]

1 left in WHS Teignmouth, 30 mins to go if anyone wants it.

[Ruffnut Thorston]

Well, today my Ivatt 2MT Tank has been re-numbered to 41223, and the late crest removed and replaced by BRITISH RAILWAYS, like 41211 (Push Pull Fitted) at Nottingham Victoria in the GBL book. 41223 is of the same batch, but not Push Pull (Auto) fitted...as is the base model...

 

Transfers from HMRS sheet BR locos and Coaches, and smokebox numbers from a Modelmasters sheet for Brakedown Cranes, etc. ! (Close enough for now! )

 

The supplied GBL it seems is a "Southern Region" loco...41302 being one of the batch built for the SR...and too far "off region" in North Wales....though I could have had it "running in" from Crewe I suppose....

 

The number range table in the GBL book is probably about right?  Useful info....

 

I suppose I ought to do something about the Motion Bracket that Bachmann seem to have missed out?

 

(I'll have to photograph this stage as well.....)

Edited July 26, 2015 by Sarahagain

[Ruffnut Thorston]

On the GBL "thing"....

 

 

The quality of the basic model that inspired the GBL production team has varried a bit....

Some were Tri-ang Hornby models! (So, basic detail to start with....) But nothing wrong with that...Nostalgia is a powerful force, and the TH models can be pricey these days too...

The next model to come, the "A2" LNER (Think "Blue Peter", No. 60535, I think) is actually based on a late 1960s TRIX model...with, it seems, the "wrong " tender. Apparently A2s didn't have Corridor Tenders like the A4 (" Mallard" , etc) that TRIX modelled, so re-used the tender for the A2 model...

The main problem with using the GBL models "as is" as background models is that the chassis is usually all diecast metal, wheels included, so would short circuit if placed on "live" 2-rail track!

This apart, the changes made by GBL when creating their tools has sometimes made the base (running plate) of the loco solid, so a hole needs to be cut to clear a motorised chassis.

Most GBL models have moulded on handrails, even if the copied model had seperate handrails...so something else to do if you want to....

With some GBL models, the copied model is now so old, that working "used" versions can be just as cheap to get hold of...and are already motorised....so you takes your choice there...

For this reason, I have not bought all the GBL models, just mostly those that I cannot afford "new", such as the "C" Class 0-6-0 based on the elusive Bachmann model, and the Bachmann based Midland "Compound", and GCR "Director" models...that and the ones that I can motorise "easily" such as the Caledonian Single 123!

I got the first model, "Mallard" as it was cheap, and got it to fit a Tri-ang Hornby "Flying Scotsman" chassis...and that started it all!

I missed the "Coronation", a pity as that could have been quite an easy motorisation, and didn't bother about the GBL " Flying Scotsman", as I have Tri-ang Hornby models.....

Basically though, the GBL series has proved to be a very useful source of "parts" that are, these days, not easy to get hold of.

This has sparked many re-build projects, as well as people practising wetahering and detailing on a cheaper base model.

It could be said to have sparked a whole new "wave" of Modelling in the hobby....

I don'tthink there has been such an amount of re-building and detailing since the heady days of the 1960s and early 1970s, when articles on how to convert a Tri-ang loco into another type were common in the modelling press, as the price of the RTR models has climbed a bit, and peiple are more reluctant to carve them about!

I have a few GBL models waiting for their time "in the works"...
 

Edited July 27, 2015 by Sarahagain

[Ian Kirk]

Hi All,

 

The upsurge in " cut and carve " and motorising models that the GBL models has caused is as Sarah suggests  very similar to the upsurge in 1960 caused by the release of the Kitmaster kits.  I remember as an early teen eagerly awaiting each new release. I will try to scan one of the little leaflets. If I remember correctly you could pick these up in every model outlet and inside the box of every kit purchased.  Just designed to tempt the potential purchasers. I remember waiting with bated breath for August 1960 and the 9F......  The Railway Modeller at this time was full of suggestions on how to motorise the Kitmasters and how to cut them into something else... just like this topic on rmweb  nowadays.

 

best wishes,

 

Ian

[Theo C. Cupier]

Apologies for the delay, just back from the Welland Steam Rally,  WHSmith at Kidderminster had three 2MTs on the shelf on Friday afternoon, before I liberated one. I hadn't even intended to get one of these.

Edited July 26, 2015 by Theo C. Cupier

[Horsetan]

I haven't indulged in GBL as much as some, but a few did take my fancy: Black Five, Std. 4 tank, City of Truro, Midland Compound, "N" and Western. All of these can be made into finescale runners for reasonable outlay, and almost all

 

- Black Five (Brassmasters)

- Std. 4 tank (Comet)

- Midland Compound (Comet)

- "N" (SEF)

- Western (Heljan or, better, Dapol)

 

can take advantage of some pretty state-of-the-art chassis schemes.

 

City of Truro, although a bit wrong in the boiler / firebox join department, yields useful parts for other things.....

[Il Grifone]

I used caustic soda (drain cleaner from a pound shop - as a paste not a spray - watch the fumes and it's highly corrosive, as is Nitromors) to strip the last one I did. Neutralise with lots of water and a mild acid (eg vinegar). Since it's intended for cleaning drains, disposal shouldn't be too much of a problem, though the paint contamination might be. I've always just used plenty of water with Nitromors, but don't know if this is the best solution - I'm not keen on using the stuff.

 

If the problem is overpainting, brake fluid will just shift the top layers, if not left too long (Dublo paint is very tough!). This should not be poured down the drain however.

 

I tried Tamiya tape (seeing it recommended on line). It seems excellent, but I still have to try removing it. I was leaving the paint to dry...... (light green stripe on a Dublo Deltic).

 

Re the Tamiya tape.

 

Writing the above reminded me that the model was still sitting there awaiting attention. Removal of the tape revealed a clean straight line and no glue residue - an excellent result. The only flaw was a small patch of creep under the tape - obviously my fault for not pressing it down properly. Hopefully the dark green (Humbrol GWR loco green no 104*) will come off, as matching my mix of the light green will be difficult.

 

* It matches the Dublo green perfectly (which it should of course, as they are supposed to be the same colour. It's a pity these paints are no longer available, but luckily I still have stocks of most of them. Some are quite old - for example my BR multiple unit green is in a glass jar.

[WD0-6-0]

Work has started on my second Ivatt, I'm turning it into a STD tank, the top feed is gone as is the chimney. I don't have the luxury of using another mogul chassis for this one so it will remain unpowered a little longer. The running plate has been cut back and filled (I'm not sure how I'm going to make the curve into the narrower plate at the bottom)

Overall I, like many others, will miss this series but I'd be reasonably confident it will get another run and if it does I will purchase more and continue to model with them

[Ruffnut Thorston]

The final stages....

 

Transfers added, before final filling and painting....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Final filling and painting...only glazing of the cab-side windows and couplings to sort out...I am thinking of leaving the motion bracket as it is....

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 27, 2015 by Sarahagain

[46256]

Sarah nicely done, if you want the missing motion bracket the nice man at 247 developments makes one...or certainly did ...

[WD0-6-0]

Here is my Ivatt tank with a borrowed rear pony, I still need to get a real one as this one has to go back under my remaining mogul. This Ivatt tank will be 41315, does anyone know if it was auto fitted?

(No, this one is not going under the Standard tank)

The standard is progressing too, albeit slowly.

I have yet to decide whether the Standard will be 84000 or 84004

In my online search for photos of the std 2 tank I came across several other conversions from Bachmann Ivatts and they all had the same mistake (maybe some were like this and therefore not a mistake but I've found no evidence of this) the smoke box door number plate was below the top strap and not on it. To me the number being on the strap is one of the main differentiating features of the std from the Ivatt so the number plate had to be moved.

Edited July 28, 2015 by WD0-6-0