Big jim's (now dismantled) 12 x 6 shed layout

[newbryford]

One way of doing the straps is to place a piece of masking tape on a clean piece of plastic, cut it into narrow strips with a ruler. Remove each alternate one then paint the ones left orange. Once dry lift each one as you need them and then place over the logs gluing the ends down with canopy glue. You can even give them a coat of canopy glue using your fingers prior to lifting them off the plastic to make them stronger. Can be fiddly and may need a bit of practice but I have done similar for straps.

 

Or you could even use 1mm wide masking tape, without the need to cut into thin strips. (Goes to look for my BDA.............)

 

EDIT: Pic added

 

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited September 10, 2014 by newbryford

[Enterprisingwestern]

Looking forward to the pictures of the inside of the shed when you get the nameplate up Jim!

 

Mike.

[big jim]

One way of doing the straps is to place a piece of masking tape on a clean piece of plastic, cut it into narrow strips with a ruler. Remove each alternate one then paint the ones left orange. Once dry lift each one as you need them and then place over the logs gluing the ends down with canopy glue. You can even give them a coat of canopy glue using your fingers prior to lifting them off the plastic to make them stronger. Can be fiddly and may need a bit of practice but I have done similar for straps.

just had a thought while reading your idea, how about i cut up a sainsburys carrier bag into strips as its the right colour!

 

i think a bag for life would be better though as its thicker but still flexible

[eldavo]

Beware of biodegradable carrier bags. You don't want to have to redo the straps after they all turn to dust!

 

See if you can find some of the flat tooth floss. Its very tough and flexible.

 

Cheers

Dave

[Brian D]

Hi Big Jim,

Apologies for swamping you with "like" notifications, only just been referred to your thread having read about it on Andy Peters Bitton thread. Fantastic stuff and highly relevant to me as I am currently lining and insulating my new shed railway room. Keep up the good work.

I was previously planning to go down the non DCC traditional route but, you know, having read through your thread I'm tempted to go digital. Food for thought. But I have got quite a bit of non compatible (not DCC ready by any stretch) favourites. Hmm.

Great stuff Big Jim.

Regards,

Brian.

[250BOB]

Hi Big Jim,

Apologies for swamping you with "like" notifications, only just been referred to your thread having read about it on Andy Peters Bitton thread. Fantastic stuff and highly relevant to me as I am currently lining and insulating my new shed railway room. Keep up the good work.

I was previously planning to go down the non DCC traditional route but, you know, having read through your thread I'm tempted to go digital. Food for thought. But I have got quite a bit of non compatible (not DCC ready by any stretch) favourites. Hmm.

Great stuff Big Jim.

Regards,

Brian.

Dont hesitate Brian...............take the plunge....there is all the help you ever needed on here.

[7APT7]

Hi mate

 

Nice Colas Rail class 70 you have.... always great to see this layouts photos....

 

Job well done

 

Jamie

[big jim]

well ive booked the electrician to come and wire the shed up, hopefully i will now be able to enjoy a few winter evenings in there with the door shut and heating on!

 

i wont need a lighting main in there as i'm using the mains powered leds so it should be a simple job, although he is going to also be putting power to the garage and patio wall lights from that supply before it reaches the shed too, we fitted the armoured cable under the patio from the meter cupboard to the garage while it was being laid so thats the main part of the job done

[big jim]

Im itching to get back into the shed this week but work is preventing me doing so, all ive managed is to get hold of a couple of low relief industrial units from the modeller which i was hoping to use in the 'oil terminal' corner of the layout, as it happens it will only fit one of them (the other does have a nice corner to go in anyway) but im going to need to move some track about to get it to fit

 

This is the corner as it is

 

But to fit the building im going to need to slew the tracks over, they will be parallel with the other one, may have to replace the Y point with a small radius one too, then i can put the building as shown below

 

 

I can then add discharge pipes between the lines and the storage tanks pretty much on the old track alignment

Edited October 21, 2014 by big jim

[class"66"]

Coming along great jim

 

cheers neil.

[big jim]

despite the electricity not going in til the end of next week i managed to have a few hours in the shed earlier, ran the extension canle out and plugged in the lights and heat so i could do a bit to the corner of the layout

 

The only ball i appear to have dropped is i've lined the lights along the centre of the ceiling above the walkway so when im working on the layout i cast a shadow right where im working, its not a huge problem though as i have a spare set of lights that i can run off the same supply and place above the layout on each side

 

So to the corner, first thing i did was remove the track and cork underlay from the rear and relay a piece of cork next to the other one and relay the track onto it, had to add a short length to the end of it too

 

So now the Hornby industrial unit fits nicely in the corner

 

Next up i placed the storage tanks roughly where i want to put them, not glued together yet, may get another pair of them yet

 

Then i decided to have a bit of a play with some of the knightwing pipes i bought for the terminal and bits of spare plasticard and strip and ended up building a discharge rig!

 

Still got to add 8 flexible pipes to the ends of the pipes and the rigging that can hold them when not in use, very pleased with the end result though!!

 

 

 

 

I know im a long way off getting the scenery done but i was in the mood for building something tonight rather than wiring, soldering or playing trains!!

[ess1uk]

great work there Jim, fills the corner nicely

[d winpenny]

Looking great

 

David

[big jim]

Been having a think about the track layout for a while and i have been a bit dissapointed since laying it about the lack of "playability" around the station area

 

So to rectify it ive decided to add a pair of crossovers on the aproach to the station at botg ends that will allow me to use the single platform bi-directionally so i can do run rounds, turn backs etc as well as being able to enter and exit the shed from both directions instead of having to cross over in the tunnel via the hidden points

 

The complicated part of the set up is 2 sets of points are going to have to be located on the removable section on a curve on top of the bridge!

 

The other end will have to fit between a level section and where the line begins to drop!

 

The bridge end will have a pair of curved points, in the picture below gives you an idea of how it will be set up

 

 

And at the other end, the upside down points are because i didnt have a spare pair of left hand points while i was planning it, to save buying a set of curved points the inner points will use the diverging route as the main line and the main route as the crossover

 

Because the points are an addition i will most likely have to leave them manual rather than motorising them, thats something i'll look at once i get round to actually laying them

[lmsforever]

Like the oil depot ,know what you mean by looking again at the track layout been looking at my layout and decided to change the exit from my station so as to provide some more fun.

[newbryford]

 

Because the points are an addition i will most likely have to leave them manual rather than motorising them, thats something i'll look at once i get round to actually laying them

 

Is that because you won't be able to fit point motors from underneath?

There is a way of dropping them in from the top and disguising them, if you use Peco PL10's, clipped directly to the point.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[big jim]

Is that because you won't be able to fit point motors from underneath?

 

its mainly because im too lazy to do it!

 

the only one i'll struggle with is one on the bridge above the poly risers but the rest i can get to just about, i normally use seep motors but i may try the peco option, the only thing is they are quite deep and the mainline runs below so i may not have the clearance

 

if not i can use rod in tube

[newbryford]

its mainly because im too lazy to do it!

 

the only one i'll struggle with is one on the bridge above the poly risers but the rest i can get to just about, i normally use seep motors but i may try the peco option, the only thing is they are quite deep and the mainline runs below so i may not have the clearance

 

if not i can use rod in tube

 

You'll make some extra clearance because the motor is partially contained within the depth of the baseboard.

Here's my take on clipping a motor direct to the point and also covering it up. You don't need the motor mounted switch, you can always use a separate micro switch directly operated from the tie-bar.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[big jim]

I'll have a look at doing that mick, the fun bit then will be the extra wires to the removable section!

 

Ive made provision for the existing point on the removable section but will have to add more for the 2 extra points, i do have 3 wires spare on the existing loom but i dont think the accessory decoder will throw 2 peco motors at once

[newbryford]

I'll have a look at doing that mick, the fun bit then will be the extra wires to the removable section!

 

Ive made provision for the existing point on the removable section but will have to add more for the 2 extra points, i do have 3 wires spare on the existing loom but i dont think the accessory decoder will throw 2 peco motors at once

 

Hi Jim,

Worth an experiment with two motors. I've read that you can and can't throw two motors from an accessory decoder. I would think that if they were reasonably free to move, it would work OK.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[big jim]

warmington had a pair if co-acting point motors that worked fine, those were seep running through ztc accessory decoders with minimal wire

 

these would be peco running off a Bachmann decoder, it does say you can set the switch for peco motors to give it a stronger 'kick' but i doubt it would manage 2

[newbryford]

My minimal experiments with the Bachmann/ESU Switchpilot revealed that the best results to power solenoid motors is to have a seperate supply to the decoder, rather than relying on the DCC bus to power it. I've not tried them, but there is a low current version of the PL-10, I think more compatible for use with DCC systems, PL-10W

 

 

Cheers,

Mick

[Pete Harvey]

I use two Switch Pilots on Peters Street with Seep Solenoid point motors and you need a separate AC supply to the switch pilot with the control signals coming from the track buss, it's not possible to do multiple switching at the same time for a route but switching single points one after the other works well.

 

 

Pete

[big jim]

Ive got a separate maplin AC supply to the accessory decoders so i may give it a try, i did have a go at it on the co-acting points in the hidden section but for whatever reason the points didnt throw properly, the supply is a fair way from the decoder though but i am using mains spec 2 core cable so i wouldnt think there is too much of a voltage drop to cause problems

[Swifty11]

Looks really good so far!