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Arboretum Valley - Invasion of the Daleks


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I tried 2 of these wagons

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/49620-ruby-road/page-7

But not as good as yours

actually I would disagree, Those wagons logo good. I didn't want to put supportive because that looked as tho i agreed, i couldn't put like cos it looked as tho i agreed so you got craft clever. Plus I like the Bauxite colouring. I was adding to the list of people who I had known coloured wagons...and yours could hav gone in there had I known. Bauxite ones, or at least the ones I have come across so far do not tend to be as decayed as I plan for this one to be.

 

I originally saw the salt weathering on C&WRs thread and was so impressed I have looked out for it since. And that is what I plan here, so I have gone a bit whole hog on the weathering. A PaulBarlett reference I am working fro has nearly all written details on the wagon....which I am hopping to emulate.

The good thing is many of us don't concentrate on just one aspect, and as we have a go we experiment, different ideas in the pot mixing makes for much more fun, it's not like being at school where you are taught hard and fast rules, you have the freedom to adjust and different skills, and with some many people doing the same....some really great effects can be seen.

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the ends

med_gallery_17883_3119_323481.jpgrmweb2738x21mineral

 

med_gallery_17883_3119_309600.jpgrmweb2740x21tmineral

 

did the inside

med_gallery_17883_3119_416582.jpgrmweb2743x21tmineral

 

as I went I mixed the humbrol weathering rust liquid with the humbrol powder dark earth. which made several different colours and shades.

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this is them in natural light, bhumbrols rusty weathering liquid gives  a nice effect and by mixing it with the powered it is not two uniform, i used a fairly large stubby brush, sometimes using it side on, flat ended, and the edge for different effects, if it over ran the strips i was not too worried as this can be covered with the last full coat (plus extra weathering)

med_gallery_17883_3119_344411.jpgrmweb2742x21tmineral

 

to my mind you never get a good picture without good light

med_gallery_17883_3119_329607.jpgrmweb2743x21tmineraal

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Hi Jaz,

WOW! That has really come to life now, excellent work!

How's that D1015 running btw?

Cheers,

John E.

Thank you. Mixing textures does help.

He has n't popped it on yet.....I'll try and get a video when he does.

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Coming along nicely.

Personally, I cover the whole body in a basic rust/muck/sludge concoction, then wipe it off selectively, creating streaks etc as I go.

Lumpy bits are various MIG pigments applied with liquid, not aerosol, hairspray, and then all sealed with Dullcote.

Also, I'd remove the body clips and glue the chassis back on.

 

Mike.

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actually I would disagree, Those wagons logo good. I didn't want to put supportive because that looked as tho i agreed, i couldn't put like cos it looked as tho i agreed so you got craft clever. Plus I like the Bauxite colouring. I was adding to the list of people who I had known coloured wagons...and yours could hav gone in there had I known. Bauxite ones, or at least the ones I have come across so far do not tend to be as decayed as I plan for this one to be.

 

I originally saw the salt weathering on C&WRs thread and was so impressed I have looked out for it since. And that is what I plan here, so I have gone a bit whole hog on the weathering. A PaulBarlett reference I am working fro has nearly all written details on the wagon....which I am hopping to emulate.

The good thing is many of us don't concentrate on just one aspect, and as we have a go we experiment, different ideas in the pot mixing makes for much more fun, it's not like being at school where you are taught hard and fast rules, you have the freedom to adjust and different skills, and with some many people doing the same....some really great effects can be seen.

The bauxite ones (coded MDV) were built 12-13 years after the last grey batch which explains why they aren't so battered!  I like the bauxite version too, they ran in block trains to and from power stations.

If you want to build one of these from one of your Hornby bodies simply cut away the top lip above the doors and add some plastic strip to represent the hinges on the top flap doors and par off the rivets and replace with plastic strip! Then paint it bauxite.           I have found an unbuilt kit of one in my kits box so if you want a close up picture of the doors............no problem!! 

Keep up the good work.

Edited by Sasquatch
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They could have been better, but as they were early testers on wagons I was not going to keep I didn't really finish them.

They are on Dad's layout so could always have another go at them at some time.

 

actually I would disagree, Those wagons logo good. I didn't want to put supportive because that looked as tho i agreed, i couldn't put like cos it looked as tho i agreed so you got craft clever. Plus I like the Bauxite colouring. I was adding to the list of people who I had known coloured wagons...and yours could hav gone in there had I known. Bauxite ones, or at least the ones I have come across so far do not tend to be as decayed as I plan for this one to be.

 

I originally saw the salt weathering on C&WRs thread and was so impressed I have looked out for it since. And that is what I plan here, so I have gone a bit whole hog on the weathering. A PaulBarlett reference I am working fro has nearly all written details on the wagon....which I am hopping to emulate.

The good thing is many of us don't concentrate on just one aspect, and as we have a go we experiment, different ideas in the pot mixing makes for much more fun, it's not like being at school where you are taught hard and fast rules, you have the freedom to adjust and different skills, and with some many people doing the same....some really great effects can be seen.

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Metal springs or door bangs!

 

Interesting picture. The "P" prefix of its number indicates this was a private owner wagon before it's BR days. It is probably 30 years old in this picture.

I don't know what the "K' stands for after the number. Anyone? 

 

Edit: Whoops. the number on my model has a "B" prefix!  The number is wrong too. This down to laziness, as I used transfers from the BR  21Tonners sheet!! :nono:  

Edited by Sasquatch
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MDO

21T tare09/50kg

B200021

 

http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdo/h406A8F9#h3cfd352c

 

med_gallery_17883_3119_294506.jpgrmweb2744x21tmineral

 

I have to repair the other side tho....I did the writing on this side on the other side....I'm assuming it was not on both sides? Or can I leave it?

 

I free hand painted it....no salt and hair pay.

 

Any idea why the strip that marks the end door appears to be orange? did the white get rusty liquid on it?

Edited by Jaz
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Nice job on the wagon Jaz, I like the textures with the powders and liquid mix, really brings it out.

 

How about an alternative, you could file off one of the doors and produce a later, single door 21t MDO

 

http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdo1doorrebuiltrenumber/h15933f60#h15933f60

 

They had no end doors either, but that would take some filing!!! Just a thought for variation.

 

Jinty ;-)

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Metal springs or door bangs!

 

Interesting picture. The "P" prefix of its number indicates this was a private owner wagon before it's BR days. It is probably 30 years old in this picture.

I don't know what the "K' stands for after the number. Anyone? 

 

Edit: Whoops. the number on my model has a "B" prefix!  The number is wrong too. This down to laziness, as I used transfers from the BR  21Tonners sheet!! :nono:  

 

K indicates a 21 ton wagon.

N indicates a 24 1/2 ton wagon.

 

Also, scrape off the bottom curve of the B, and voila, a P !!

 

Mike.

Edited by Enterprisingwestern
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K indicates a 21 ton wagon.

N indicates a 24 1/2 ton wagon.

 

Also, scrape off the bottom curve of the B, and voila, a P !!

 

Mike.

Thank you for the clarification :sungum:

 

As an aside....

If B is also a 21 tonne, what is the difference from B to K?

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Nice job on the wagon Jaz, I like the textures with the powders and liquid mix, really brings it out.

 

How about an alternative, you could file off one of the doors and produce a later, single door 21t MDO

 

http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdo1doorrebuiltrenumber/h15933f60#h15933f60

 

They had no end doors either, but that would take some filing!!! Just a thought for variation.

 

Jinty ;-)

Interesting.....any ideas why they would turn a two door into a single door....I would have thought it harder to empty.....

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Also being fairly clueless on such things at the moment......

 

I assume the contents were either.....

 

1. released straight on to the sides of the tracks. :O hopefully only in small quantites

 

2. opened onto chutes where they could control the 'fall out' into either straithes or vehicles.

 

3. We have a couple of resin buildings mostly Hornbys. Which infer they may have been emptied onto a lower track or road way.

 

n8708_2.jpgehattons

R8708 Loading Chute

 

 

image847.jpgmodelrailforum

R8712 Coal Hopper

 

image851.jpgmodelrailforum

Coal Drop

R873 Coal Drop: Overshoot & Steps
R8733 Coal Drop: Ramp 1
R8734 Coal Drop: Ramp 2
R8735 Coal Drop: Shed Base

 

 

 

 

 

4. Would the contents ever have been dropped onto a conveyor belt that went UP instead of a chute DOWN?

Edited by Jaz
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The bauxite ones (coded MDV) were built 12-13 years after the last grey batch which explains why they aren't so battered!  I like the bauxite version too, they ran in block trains to and from power stations.

If you want to build one of these from one of your Hornby bodies simply cut away the top lip above the doors and add some plastic strip to represent the hinges on the top flap doors and par off the rivets and replace with plastic strip! Then paint it bauxite.           I have found an unbuilt kit of one in my kits box so if you want a close up picture of the doors............no problem!! 

Keep up the good work.

If you don't fancy hacking up a Hornby one (which, being rivetted, has the wrong sort of 'ribbing'), then Roger Chivers does a very nice kit for the MDV; if you're someone who's wary of kits, can I say that it virtually builds itself.

http://slimrails.co.uk/index00gauge.html

I've done about twenty of these; half built as intended, the other half modified to represent a selection of unfitted ones with different underframes. I did post some photos on an earlier version of RMWeb; I'll do some more, as I've done a few conversions of the Airfix/Dapol/Hornby one as well. These include one with two end-doors, and another as an ex-LMS Loco Coal, with no end-doors, and strengthening plates on the side and top ribs. The idea is to replicate one of the trains that used to take coal to Carmarthen Bay power station in the early 1970s.

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Hi Jaz

Excellent work on the wagons. The weathering looks very realistic. Instead of shoving them down some siding, how about modelling this train. I know you've got the 37 in this livery. Need to show off your handy work. This train ran up until 1990 moving coal from Maesteg to Newport docks. It was loaded and unloaded by mechanical diggers. See link below

The wagons are MDVs which I believe the Hornby wagon was loosely based on.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/actonwellsjunction/5960524521/in/photostream/

 

Plenty of pictures here:

 

http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brmdv

 

The only thing I will say is the diagonal line on the tipping end of the wagon isn't raised from the body but simply painted on.

 

Cheers

 

Marcus

Edited by Marcus 37
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Thank you for the clarification :sungum:

 

As an aside....

If B is also a 21 tonne, what is the difference from B to K?

 

B is the prefix, indicating a British Railways design, whereas the K & N are suffixes to easily identify the different wagon capacities.

Of course, there are triangle colours to consider as well !!

 

Mike.

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