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I have started to put slates on the goods shed roof although progress is slower than I would like (more important things to do according to SWMBO). But on the plus side I now have a discarded umbrella the ribs are a little deep for guttering but should be ok with a touch of the file. Thanks to Mr Downes for the idea.

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Just by way of a further bit of variety and since I keep referring to the fact that much of my modelling has been of American prototype - Here is the woods engine house and water tank on my now defunct 'Beaver Creek Lumber Co' layout.  Almost everything on this layout was scratch built, including the track...........and rails and wheels apart, almost all of it from real wood. These are buildings in typical USA backwoods style. Much of the scenery was technically edible, consisting in great part of dried herbs, seeds, Shredded Wheat - and other sundry stuff of the same ilk.

 

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Edited by orford
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Here's another of the little structures from 'Beaver Creek'.  All the buildings were constructed from built-up real stripwood framing, overlaid with 'planks' cut on the mini table saw, essentially as per the prototype.

 

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Edited by orford
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The old spirit based Colron in tins can still be obtained on Ebay and Amazonn. However, certain colours are now obsolete.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

Spirit based Colron located in Wilko's of all places. 1 tin of georgian medium oak purchased!!!

Edited by ianLMS
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I'm going to Wilko's today so I will have a look and maybe make a purchase dark oak/Jacobean oak if its available

They have around 5 different shades available in the store I went to - definitely Jacobean was available so hopefully your local Wilko's will have them too.

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I thought this 7mm scale model based on Arley station might be of interest.....there are more pictures in my Kirtley Model Buildings thread in the Small Suppliers section.

 

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Peter

I think you've posted the wrong picture- that's the real one!

 

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Foo,

I notice there are some creases in the paper covering the chimney - inevitable when the former is conical and large sheets of paper are used.

 

If you cut thin strips of paper where you cut along the mortar line ( so not straight for the stone work you"ve used) you should be able add those strips without creases. If you work upwards, each strip should line up with the one lower down, but a prior coat of paint in the colour of the mortar will help hide any gaps.

 

HTH

 

Stu

 

Edit: To clarify, each strip of paper would be 3-5 rows of stonework, more where there is less conicalness.

Yeah I'm not too pleased with the chimney. Made it quickly out of thin card without trimming enough. Think I need a rethink.

 

Thanks for the tips on covering

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A Cornish engine house I presume Foo ? Nice job so far.

 

I built several of these for Andy Duncan of Duncans Models many years ago and he was a 'mine' of information on the subject of Cornish tin mines and sent me plans, photographs and drawings and also several books explaining how they were constructed and most interestingly how they hauled a 10 ton cast iron beam up into place using ropes, horses and plenty of manpower.

 

I no longer have the books and plans etc otherwise I could have scanned any relevant information for you albeit I do have some photographs of the models should you be interested.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan

Cheers I'm pleased enough. Would do a couple of things differently when I do another one. Have got a crazy idea of trying to make a working one so all ideas and hints are appreciated especially with the actual beam

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Cheers I'm pleased enough. Would do a couple of things differently when I do another one. Have got a crazy idea of trying to make a working one so all ideas and hints are appreciated especially with the actual beam

 

Take a trip to the East Pool Mine engine house in Pool - I'm sure they'd be happy for you to use it as a prototype for your model.

 

https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/east-pool-mine

Edited by Stubby47
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Cheers I'm pleased enough. Would do a couple of things differently when I do another one. Have got a crazy idea of trying to make a working one so all ideas and hints are appreciated especially with the actual beam

 

Hi Foo.

 

I built mine out of 40thou styreen copied from engineers drawings.

 

However, this link might help.

 

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beam_engine

 

Cheers.

 

Alldan.

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It has been a while since my last post #1115. As progress is rather slow I did not have much to show.

There is still a lot to do but I still like to share my project with you.

 

The last month I fitted interiors to most shops and homes, started with painting and weathering, installed interior lighting, and fitted rain pipes. also some figures (Preiser) found their home inside the shops and homes.

 

Pieter

 

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Edited by PMuller
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I've built the 7mm scale signal box for North Foreland, based on a South Eastern Railway design with sash windows which you don't often see modelled. As it will stand next to the loco shed it had to be fairly dirty. The model is all plastic with stairs laser cut by York Modelmaking.

 

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The ground will be built up around the base of the stairs when the box is in place. I've forgotten to dirty the locking room windows!

 

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Peter

Edited by kirtleypete
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The row of five shops is finally on its place on my small layout.

Some small bits and pieces will be added in the future.

 

The layout is not finished yet. Just in case someone notices it: the colour glasses on the signal arms are one of the jobs still to be done.

 

Pieter

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Here are a few pics of my recent scratchbuild, completed last night. Its a station building, loosely based on the LNWR/LMS ones found in Buckinghamshire and on the Settle & Carlisle line. Overall I am happy with the results - few little areas I could have done better though. It is fully wired up with LED lights and interior using Scalescenes printed sheets and etched brass items from Severn Models. The model is made from 2mm card, over-layed with Slaters plasticard stone sheet. Roof tiles and ridge tiles are York Modelmaking, benches are Shires, windows and doors and window/door surrounds are laser cut offerings from LCut Creative. Guttering is 1.5mm styrene strip and downpipes are 1.5mm styrene rod both from Slaters. Weatheirng is mostly cheap pastels from Wilko's (£4 for 12 pastels) plus Humbrol weathering powders.

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