81A Oldoak Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 Cherry Orchard Sidings just south of Caerphilly would work as a fiddle yard on a continuous run. Although just outside Wales, I've always considered Coleford Junction in the Forest Dean to be an and interesting location and is a goer with the JLTRT Class 22 and a decent Class 14 Teddy Bear (tried the DJH kit, the less said the better). Anyway, I must return to trying to make the mould forcasting my retaining wall section. I am making good progress i.e. I have removed the mould casting silicone, catalyst, other ingredients and the bits and pieces for mixing from the box. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 And then you call it a marshalling yard. That might be big enough, pro tem..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 What you really need is a proper Welsh marshalling yard, like Radyr Radyr 1 1973.jpg Scissors crossover on a curve - who is feeling brave enough? Would make quite a model. S7 anyone? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted September 26, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 26, 2014 Scissors crossover on a curve - who is feeling brave enough? Would make quite a model. S7 anyone? What a shame I haven't enough room .... Coleford Junction would be interesting the trains on the Coleford branch were quite short ( pannier + five wagons was common) the bit around Fetterhill/Darkhill and Point quarry would make a great model. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Scissors crossover on a curve - who is feeling brave enough? Would make quite a model. S7 anyone? I hopefully will attempt a single slip crossover on a curve in the not to distant future in 31.5mm, once the next board is built that is. Then it's on to a single outside slip . Martyn. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 (edited) I hopefully will attempt a single slip crossover on a curve in the not to distant future in 31.5mm, once the next board is built that is. Then it's on to a single outside slip . Martyn. As someone who is firmly in the Peco camp I can admire hand laid track without getting keen to make any myself. But I would be interested to see any interesting pointwork you make - so please do post details as and when. But obviously not in Mr Klein's topic Edited September 26, 2014 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 This morning I started the autumn clearance of the garden. The raspberry canes have been cut right back having produced another execellent crop this year. Other shrubs also yielded to the pruner's hand after which it was into the garage to treat some of the roof joists with woodworm killer. Suitably refreshed and fortified by the mid-day repast, it was time to turn one's attention to Cwm Bach. The first task was to mix and pour the silicone liquid that will form the mould for the retaining wall section. It will take 24 hours to cure so I won't know if it's been a success until tomorrow afternoon. So with nothing to do but wait, I laid some more ballast. After that it was time for some fun and today it was in the form of an invasion by diesel hydraulic locomotives. The Hymek is fitted with a Howes DCC sound decoder and is superb. The weathering was a blend of techniques, but I find an airbrush useful on main-line diesels. I have some etched numbers from Severn Mill to replace the printed originals. D1035 Western Yeoman was the first Western behind which I travelled on a train in 1969. The name and number plates are also from Severn Mill. She is awaiting weathering or, to be more precise, the summoning up of the courage required to weather her. Western Yeoman is also fitted with DCC sound and along with the Hymek reminds me of very happy days watching them at my home station of Bristol Temple Meads and elsewhere between 1970 and 1976. I am looking forward to the Heljan Warship and must get a JLTRT Class 22 (birthday next month?). 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted September 27, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2014 I was really none too pleased when the first one in desert sand rolled into Reading, with that and Mr Beeching's Axe it was then end of life as we knew it. Somehow in model form they are more acceptable. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Looks great, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 I have looked at the silicone mould for the retaining wall casting. Thinking back to those occasions when I have mixed epoxy resin with too little hardener and been left with an eternally gooey and useless mess, I was concerned when the instructions said that the raw silicone and catalyst should be mixed 100:5 by weight. It was recommended that very fine scales should be used to measure precisely the quantities required. Well I don't possess a set of atomic scales so I resorted to the SWAG technique i.e. the scientific wild-arsed guess so beloved of my ersthwile army colleagues in the Royal Artillery (as an infantry mortar platoon commander in The Staffordshire Regiment I was, of course, much, much more accurate). I need not have worried and I am pleased to report that the silicone rubber has successfully cured. Attached is a photograph of the mould box built up from 60 thou plasticrd with the master fixed inside. The second photo shows the silicone mix shortly after pouring. As you can see, the silicone was a little too thin at the top of the pillar, so I mixed up some more silicone today and brushed it onto the back of the mould to provide some reinforcement. So, I must wait another 24 hours to see if that works. The plasticard in the mould box is not wasted as it is not marked in any way by the silicone and can be re-used for other work (probably a platelayer's hut). Stay tuned. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Exiting times down at Cwm Bach. Best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 The retaining wall mould is ok. I will start casting resin on Friday. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 3, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 3, 2014 Chris, I'm sure that you have said somewhere but it eludes me... What's the gradient you've got on your industrial line? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Chris, I'm sure that you have said somewhere but it eludes me... What's the gradient you've got on your industrial line? 1:22. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Excellent weathering on the Hymek, just needs some dead flies on the yellow panels.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derbys65 Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Any further on your wall casting Chris ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Any further on your wall casting Chris ? I mixed the resin and cast the first panel about two hours ago. The instructions recommend leaving it to cure for about six hours, but I think I'll leave it overnight. The residue in the mixing tray and on the brush hardened in under thirty minutes and flaked off easily so I am hoping I have got a good mix. I'll post a sitrep and photos tomorrow. Off to watch Singing in the Rain at the Mayflower Theatre in Southampton tonight. We're in Row C of the stalls and there is a lot of water splashed about. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derbys65 Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Looking forward too seeing results, hoping to use wills sheets myself as I think slaters have lost their definition. Enjoy the show and take your waterproofs! Lol 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Curiosity got the better of me and I released the first casting from the mould after three hours. It is perfectly set and the second casting is now curing. No release agent is used and the mould peeled away easily from the casting without any sticking. I scrubbed the casting with warm water and washing-up liquid. When I have finished casting, I will probably spray the castings with Halfords grey primer and then paint them with a dirty black colour that will be wiped off immediately leaving paint in the recesses and pointing. All in all, I am very encouraged by the process so far. The last shot shows the casting ingredients and tools. As the bottle warns, Part A needs to be thoroughly mixed before use. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 A lot of effort but the reward is great. Looking very good Chris. Best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 A lot of effort but the reward is great. Looking very good Chris. Best The actual casting only takes about two to three minutes including the mixing if the ingredients. The time is in making the master and mould. I have just cast the third panel. I will need seven. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Traxson Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Chris Note that when using washing up liquid for cleaning the new casting that although it cleans any slight traces of silicone off the surface it may well leave behind lanolin if it is a better quality one. The manufacturers put this in to keep your hands soft, I'm sure you remember the advert "hands that do dishes--" etc! Unfortunately lanolin will not take paint either but, that said, the cheaper brands don't usually contain lanolin anyway. On my experience (and this may only be me) the best cleaner is one of the cream bath/sink cleaners with an old tooth brush (they usually claim to leave no residue)and a wash with water is the best. I was surprised when you said they suggested 6 hours as my castings usually come out within the hour and are then left on a flat surface for a while. I can't make them fast enough as it is, if I had to wait 6 hours I'd have no chance. I have been known to demonstrate casting at Exhibitions too and the punters wouldn't want to wait 6 hours to see the results! You can see examples of my castings on the Port Wynnstay page of the EDM website and the Highland Castings range of buildings from Invertrain Model Railways. It will give you a good idea of what is possible using nothing more than you do already, the only thing I would point out to any one doing this is that good ventilation is very important, the modern resins may not smell as obnoxious as the old ones but there are still fumes you should not breathe in any concentration. I've been doing it since 1996 and its not got me yet!! Phil T. Port Wynnstay Models Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Chris Note that when using washing up liquid for cleaning the new casting that although it cleans any slight traces of silicone off the surface it may well leave behind lanolin if it is a better quality one. The manufacturers put this in to keep your hands soft, I'm sure you remember the advert "hands that do dishes--" etc! Unfortunately lanolin will not take paint either but, that said, the cheaper brands don't usually contain lanolin anyway. On my experience (and this may only be me) the best cleaner is one of the cream bath/sink cleaners with an old tooth brush (they usually claim to leave no residue)and a wash with water is the best. I was surprised when you said they suggested 6 hours as my castings usually come out within the hour and are then left on a flat surface for a while. I can't make them fast enough as it is, if I had to wait 6 hours I'd have no chance. I have been known to demonstrate casting at Exhibitions too and the punters wouldn't want to wait 6 hours to see the results! You can see examples of my castings on the Port Wynnstay page of the EDM website and the Highland Castings range of buildings from Invertrain Model Railways. It will give you a good idea of what is possible using nothing more than you do already, the only thing I would point out to any one doing this is that good ventilation is very important, the modern resins may not smell as obnoxious as the old ones but there are still fumes you should not breathe in any concentration. I've been doing it since 1996 and its not got me yet!! Phil T. Port Wynnstay Models Thanks for the advice Phil. I'm still feeling my way with this, but having seen how quickly the residue sets in my mixing dish I am checking the castings after about an hour. As for your products, I have several packets of your assorted doors and window-frames to provide speed and consistency to my scratchbuilding. I want to try casting human figures in due course. Anyway, I must go to the garage to cast the next panel. Regards, Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Having discovered that the resin cures very quickly, I have been able to make good progress today. The photos show six of the seven retaining wall panels laid loosely along the back of Cwm Bach (the seventh is in the mould). I am pleased with the outcome. My biggest worry was getting the right mix of the ingredients for both the mould and the castings so that they would cure properly, but everything has gone satisfactorily. The next step will be to drill out the pilot holes for the railings and mount the panels on a supporting panel. The panels will then be sprayed grey and painted with a dirty black mortar colour that will wiped off immediately. The railings will then be installed and the wall mounted along the back of the layout. I have included a previously posted a photo of the master panel to show the effect I am hoping to achieve with the entire wall. In due course a backscene featuring terraced houses will be added. In between waiting for the castings to set, I completed some more ballasting and the end of that tedious task is now well in sight. I also built three lengths of the railings from the excellent Peco GWR Spear Fencing product (LK-741). 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Coming on very well, I do like the way you have cast the walling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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