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2 hours ago, Bucoops said:

I'm aiming for compatible with R2 as my layout is as yet unbuilt - I'll be avoiding curves that tight in the scenery section but the available space means the fiddle area *may* need to go that sharp. Not ideal of course but needs must.

 

 

Others will know better, but I'd be surprised if you can get kit built locos to run reliably round R2 setrack.  I find R3 can be a challenge. Best of luck and best wishes, On Little Benton, I use R4 to get out of the scenic section into the fiddle yards. Peco setrack R3 and R4 match Hornby ..the radius measurements are the same,

I used bushes with the tophats inside on a PDK fold-up chassis - a B16/3 if I recall. I still had the devils own job, and on the next one, used narrower spacers.

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1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

 

The compromise that is 00 enables one to have a continuous run in a space where that simply wouldn't be possible if working to EM or P4 standards. 

 

1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

 

The compromise that is 00 enables one to have a continuous run in a space where that simply wouldn't be possible if working to EM or P4 standards. 

It is a compromise that results in overly complex layouts with excessively small radius curves. That destroys any sense of realism that I think can add so much to a model. It is made worse by the wide flangeway gaps and switch blade clearances that RTL track uses. A look at Little Bytham and other OO layouts with hand built track will illustrate what can be achieved.

 

Surely it is better to follow the sort of approach that Iain Rice recommended if you have limited space.

 

I'll get my flak jacket out.

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31 minutes ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

 

It is a compromise that results in overly complex layouts with excessively small radius curves. That destroys any sense of realism that I think can add so much to a model. It is made worse by the wide flangeway gaps and switch blade clearances that RTL track uses. A look at Little Bytham and other OO layouts with hand built track will illustrate what can be achieved.

 

Surely it is better to follow the sort of approach that Iain Rice recommended if you have limited space.

 

I'll get my flak jacket out.

Tony's shed is big enough for LB to have been built to EM but he didn't fancy converting all his locos and stock.

 

Given the option of appearance vs operational scope in a restricted space, not everybody will make the same choice.

 

A shunting plank or a half-BLT will be entertaining enough for a weekend at a show with plenty of visitors to talk to, but I often wonder how much use many of them see "at home". Many devotees of the genre seem to make a new one every year so I suspect they have more interest in building than running.

 

My personal compromise between appearance and entertainment value uses OO set track in hidden areas to free up space for 30 - 36" radii on scenic ones.

 

John

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Dunsignalling
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No Flak Jacket needed :)

 

I'm fully aware R2 is the devil and I'm hoping to avoid at all costs - but I also need to ensure I don't snooker myself :)

 

My N7 is perfectly happy on R2 - but then that uses Gibson wheels so perhaps it's the Markits wheels at the source of the issue but more likely I should have built the frames a bit narrower for my needs. 

 

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Well, I seem to have missed quite a bit.    To work through your replies in order:

 

On 04/01/2023 at 16:09, rowanj said:

I'm currently building an LRM J21 and can report similar issues getting the wheels to turn.

 

I built the J21 chassis last year to replace an EM one and didn't have any problem with it.  I've just had it on the bench this evening and there's ~1mm of sideplay even though I haven't used Steve's dodge below.

 

22 hours ago, 31A said:

Would it be possible to gain a bit of clearance by fitting the bearings the other way round to usual, i.e. with the flange on the inside of the frames rather than outside?  Might not work for the driven axle, I suppose.  Just a thought....

 

Yes and yes, in a nutshell.   Putting the bearings inside was the first thing I tried and with the replacement frame spacers I now almost have too much sideplay so I'm thinking of putting them back outside again.   The driven axle is always the problem as, depending on the gearbox you use there may not be room for inside bearings as well.   That said LRM frames are wide (isn't that where we started?) so it might not be an issue.  With, say, Comet frames (the ones on a J39 I have for repair are only 10mm inside) you might well struggle.

 

I'm in touch with John Redrup.  It does seem, as I'd rather suspected, that whatever problems I'm having are only with my kit and/or me.

 

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20 hours ago, rowanj said:

Others will know better, but I'd be surprised if you can get kit built locos to run reliably round R2 setrack.  I find R3 can be a challenge. Best of luck and best wishes, On Little Benton, I use R4 to get out of the scenic section into the fiddle yards. Peco setrack R3 and R4 match Hornby ..the radius measurements are the same,

I used bushes with the tophats inside on a PDK fold-up chassis - a B16/3 if I recall. I still had the devils own job, and on the next one, used narrower spacers.

Based on my admittedly limited experience, you can, but with compromises, though they can hopefully be hidden.

I've built a DJH 0-6-0 J9/10 and an LRM 4-4-2 GNR C2 and both run very happily round R2, but both required more sideplay than would usually be included on a kit loco and in the case of the C2, a rear pony truck, which turned out by a happy coincidence to be prototypical for some of the class, but I didn't know that when I decided to hide one away at the back for curve-related reasons!

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2 hours ago, gr.king said:

J3 no guard irons? 

 

Small steps.   It'll get ideas above its station if I do too much at once.

 

2 hours ago, gr.king said:

K2 somewhat "front down" but with upturned snout

 

Front down as it's off the track.  I'll have another look at that front section.  I hadn't noticed it being out of alignment, but I wouldn't be shocked to learn that it had been dropped.   Someone has not really taken care of it.

 

 

Edited by jwealleans
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  • 2 weeks later...

Great bit of salvage work all round I'd say.

 

Must try not to be distracted back into building wagons by all this....

 

The Airfix brake vans really do look good, it's hard to believe that kit is well over fifty years old. I built two back when I was about twelve and was more than pleased that I had managed to build them straight, cobble in some old Hornby wheels and tin tension lock couplings.

It's the sort of thing I would build just for old times sake, even though they are way out of period for my layout.

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Bit of loco testing this evening.   Recorded for posterity here:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTJFztWduPc

 

It shows the value of having a test track or small layout and also putting a load onto a loco.   The K2 and K3 were fine - the K2 visibly freed up with a bit of running, so I might just try that on a passenger on Grantham to give it a good long run.   The J4 was fine light, but a load showed the need for more weight in the tender and also a bit more freedom of movement between loco and tender.   I think the wires on the tender plug may be too rigid at the loco side - they're very floppy on the tender end.   I have added more weight at the rear of the loco as well as it had a bit of a tendency to flick the rear wheels off on curved joints and was a bit light footed generally.   There's a big gap in the frames under the motor which i could fill with lead sheet, but I'd have to take the motor off to do it now so it's not going to happen unless there's no alternative.   I still have space in the boiler to fill.

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I will, Chas, but it won't be until after the Harrogate show as we have another plan for that Warwell there.

 

I have given it some thought, though.   What i have done so far is to remove the moulded lashing rings in the floor at each corner and drill out a .5mm hole.   The plan is to makeup a chain and turnbuckle and take it from one end ring, between chassis and body just inboard of the mudguards, across to the other side and  then back to the opposite ring at the same end.  If that looks as if it will not bend the mudguards too badly, that'll be how it's done.   Otherwise it might have to be from each end to the axle at the far end, I'll see when I sit down to do it.

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2 minutes ago, jwealleans said:

I will, Chas, but it won't be until after the Harrogate show as we have another plan for that Warwell there.

 

I have given it some thought, though.   What i have done so far is to remove the moulded lashing rings in the floor at each corner and drill out a .5mm hole.   The plan is to makeup a chain and turnbuckle and take it from one end ring, between chassis and body just inboard of the mudguards, across to the other side and  then back to the opposite ring at the same end.  If that looks as if it will not bend the mudguards too badly, that'll be how it's done.   Otherwise it might have to be from each end to the axle at the far end, I'll see when I sit down to do it.

Thanks Jonathan; I've been looking for things to put on warwells, warflats and similar low loaders too and hadn't come across David Parkins before, thanks for posting that link, looks like some interesting stuff.

 

The 'end ring > chassis/body joint > end ring' sounds good. do you mean that you're intending to secure the bowser entirely by that method, or will you also glue the tyres to the surface?

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