RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 10, 2015 (edited) The rebate on the side of the compensation beam that faces the frames is there because I also wanted to add some ns to the frames to strengthen them. Here are those parts being cut. And here a rubbish photo trying to show one fitted inside the frames. Yes, lots of cleaning up to do... Ps, the extra plate patches over the large hole in the frames meant for plunger pickups. Edited May 10, 2015 by 2ManySpams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted May 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 10, 2015 You're getting quite good at this scratch-building lark - you'll be lowering bogies next ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 10, 2015 I've been told that bearings rotating on a screw thread is bad practice. You'll recall therefore that I fixed some brass tube to the bearings to act as a smooth pivot. Inside the tube I soldered some threaded bar and a nut held the compensation beam in place. Effectively I fabricated a waisted screw. Here we see the brass tube being used to align the compensation beam to see if everything lines up. And yes, the pilot holes for the bearings are smack in the middle of the holes in the frames. Phew. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 10, 2015 You're getting quite good at this scratch-building lark - you'll be lowering bogies next ! Thanks Stu. The only diesels on this layout will be an AC Railbus (on order from Heljan) and potentially a Class 22 (JLTRT) at some point. Hopefully neither need lowering! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 10, 2015 I've now run out of progress photos as it appears I forgot to take any of the axle bearings being fitted or the 'wheels on' test fit with everything in place. The test fit revealed that one bearing needs a very slight adjustment to slacken a tight spot but otherwise everything is ok. This is a big relief as I was seriously concerned that remaking the compensation beams and getting everything in the right place would be a massive 'challenge'. Hopefully the experience will help me take on the challenge of sorting out the 1366 chassis and remaking the cylinders etc. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 10, 2015 I think you are up to most challenges now. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 10, 2015 Every time I passed Jim's stand at Reading today, he seemed to be selling an O2....... So far I've resisted but there is Telford and Reading again in December to navigate yet. Love the build, great job (or should that be proper job!). I saw Jim at the Telford show last year and the O2 kits were selling like hot cakes there too. I think he almost sold out. Glad you're enjoying the build - I really hope it is a 'proper job' when I've finished. I'm trying to ignore that it will need painting and lining. Not looking forward to that at all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 10, 2015 I think you are up to most challenges now. Don Thanks Don, it took me a while to pluck up the courage to remake the beams. It just needed a solid chunk of time to tackle the task. I've learned the hard way that trying to do technical stuff in the late evening after work isn't a good idea. Compared with last year I now have a lot more tools and that really helps. Still nothing like a milling machine or lathe but I'm getting by with what I have! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted May 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 10, 2015 Chris, as you know I have access to both milling machines and lathes if you need something doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Chris This is coming together well. Learning is the done always done better from sorting out mistakes. You will be surprised how much can be done without a lathe or mill. I sold or left mine in the UK. Some bits just need thinking out in a different way. A power drill and file will make things round and a parts can be bored out if held in the chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) It is, but on a model with the minimal movement we are likely to subject it to, it's never bothered me... Nice progress. If it's thin plate pivotting on the thread the problem is not wear but accuracy. Theoretically the beam is more likely to pivot accurately on the centre if it's running on a plain surface - however if experience trounces theory then......OK Chaz edit - to eliminate that much overused and misused word "issue" Edited May 11, 2015 by chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I'd have thought that both may rear their ugly heads given time. I think the telescoping brass tube solution is ideal, and I can vouch for it through personal experience. Definitely better than "sheet edge on thread". Decent bearing area, no slop, drop of oil, forget. Best Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 11, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 11, 2015 Nothing to report from yesterday as I spent the day taming the garden. Very therapeutic and gives you the chance for the mind to wander and think things through... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 11, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 11, 2015 Nothing to report from yesterday as I spent the day taming the garden. Very therapeutic and gives you the chance for the mind to wander and think things through... I was busy building baseboards in mine. Don 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) but I agree that sing a bearing of some kind is better engineering You hum it, Simon, we'll all follow! Edited May 11, 2015 by daifly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted May 12, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2015 Seeing as how you're fitting compensating beams to the driving axles, and I apologise if this has been covered somewhere and I've missed it, but have you considered going one step further and using split axle current collection on the bogie (and using it's outside frames as compensating beams)? I have always found that with 0-4-4T's it makes one heck of a difference to reliable running and goes hand-in-hand with compensation. Just a thought ....you know....... Izzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 16, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2015 Where was I? Oh yes compensation beams... In the jiggy thingy... More to follow after I've repaired a stable door. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 16, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2015 Which side of it is the horse?In the field apparently. Door mended now and all ship-shape. Horses can look guilty. So back to smaller scale bodging... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 16, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2015 Another trial fit (must clean and blackened the wheels). Think I'm going to adjust the brake hanger bracket for the rear drivers. There's potential for the connecting rods to catch. Best sort it now. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 16, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2015 And we're now back to where I was several weeks ago before I dropped the loco slightly and bust the original compensation beam. On the plus side it now rolls much better than before and it has more robust compensation beams that stay straight. A silver lining perhaps? 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 And we're now back to where I was several weeks ago before I dropped the loco slightly and bust the original compensation beam. rps20150516_213303.jpg On the plus side it now rolls much better than before and it has more robust compensation beams that stay straight. A silver lining perhaps? Very nice indeed - and it's always a bonus when a repair brings on an improvement! (I would prefer one with a MacLeod bunker - but that's just nostalgia for sunny IOW days.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 17, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 17, 2015 Very nice indeed - and it's always a bonus when a repair brings on an improvement! (I would prefer one with a MacLeod bunker - but that's just nostalgia for sunny IOW days.) Thanks Chaz I've got the leftover etches for the IoW version if you want them for a scratch build, plus all the castings for the air brake system. Not sure how you'd explain an IoW O2 on Dock Green though! I'm starting to think about DCC gubbins and have concluded I should have perhaps thought about it earlier in the build to ensure the right space is available within the body. My main problem though is that I'm starting from a position of ignorance on all things DCC. The loco weighs in at a smidge under 1kg but has an ABC gearbox and Cannon motor. Am I likely to need a chip with a high ampage rating? I had a bit of a shock in the week when I saw the size of the ESU(?) sound chip. My immediate thoughts were "where the @#@# is that going to fit?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 17, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 17, 2015 My ABC powered locos seem to draw about 0.5 amp or less. Obviously the stall current may be a little higher. Ideally you could do with a limiter you dont want the motor drawing too much current. Ideally the decoders would protect themselves by either limiting the current or switching off as the DC controllers do. Look on the ABC site http://www.abcgears.co.uk where there is some useful info. The Loksound Select offerring a 1.1A motor controller plus all the sounds should be ok. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 You should be fine with a smallish chip, I really like the Zimo ones with capacitors (MX645 I think but don't quote me). I think there is an awful load of guff talked about DCC chips and O gauge. If you're using a modernish motor you shouldn't need big 5 amp chips and the like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 You should be fine with a smallish chip, I really like the Zimo ones with capacitors (MX645 I think but don't quote me). I think there is an awful load of guff talked about DCC chips and O gauge. If you're using a modernish motor you shouldn't need big 5 amp chips and the like. Agree completely about the guff associated with DCC. My big Heljan diesels have large chips. Everything else uses smaller chips. I test fitted an Ixion Fowler with tiny non-sound N Gauge chips and they worked fine as we have not yet got an Ixion Fowler to draw much above 280 milliamps and the Hudswell Clarke around 375 milliamps. My DCC needs are very simple: I want the loco to run forwards and backwards, to start and stop when told and to produce realistic synchronised sound. I like being able to park locos anywhere without the need for isolation sections and their associated switchgear. I find almost all of the books on the subject of DCC unhelpful and quite often I wonder whether the whole DCC effort (and expense) is worthwhile, but the sound, which continues to improve, keeps me hooked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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