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Hattons announce 14xx / 48xx / 58xx


Andy Y
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Someone has bought me one as a present so I am really looking forward to seeing which version will arrive. Yup, it's a little 4mm/00 loco, but ve haff leetle shelf above PC for such things....

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts- I have one of the first ones to be released and am very impressed: a major step up from the previous RTR model.....
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Mine arrived today, and what a little cracker it is! I thought the cab doors had not been glued in properly, but they open, if only a little. However, despite the cabside recesses being designed to ensure accurate fitting, both numberplates are fitted slightly down at the front. It's only really noticeable when looking horizontally at the loco, not when looking down when on a layout. Also, the over-long cabside handrail wireslove not too over-long on my example.

Now, to the running. The leaflet advises not using a feedback or PCM controller or a controller that's more than 10 years old, as it may not be compatible with the coreless motor. I have an old vertical-fronted Gaugemaster model TS. This model appears to still made by Gaugemaster, with a redesigned case, but is the controller inside the basically same? Can anyone advise if my controller is OK to use mine with a coreless motor? I'm sure Gaugemaster would love to sell me a new one if I asked them! Their website does quote one feedback model they make (the DF, feedback type), and which they specifically say is not compatible with coreless motors.

Edited by Coppercap
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Forgive me if this has been mentioned before, but has anyone had any experience of removing the factory-fitted cabside numberplates, prior to fitting new/different numbers, please?

I haven't seen one "in the flesh" as my preferred version is still to come but I can't say the idea of attempting to "dig out" a recessed plate appeals very much.

 

It might be safer to take the numbers/surround off flush using (for instance) a burr in a mini-drill, then just stick the replacements over what's left.

 

John  

Edited by Dunsignalling
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I have what amounts to a concealed loop on my layout, the ends of which are of necessity formed from Peco ST220 No 1 radius standard curves i.e. approx 15" radius.  Am I correct in assuming that the Hattons 14XX wouldn't be happy running round them?

Tried the Hattons 14XX on a half circle of Triang super 4  1st Radius / 14  5/8th" Radius and it ran very sweetly when I finally got all 6 wheels on the track. It was clearly right on the limit of the sideplay. 

The Bachmann 64XX was also OK once I got all 6 wheels on the track as was one of two Dapol / Hornby 14XX I tried the other just derailed, the one that worked gave an impression of a wounded wallaby as it limped along.

A Bachmann 57XX simply would not go on the track as there was not enough sideplay to let all 6 wheels be on the track together, though it ran happily enough with the leading wheels off the track

None of the locos managed a 13" Radius Triang Standard Grey Track curve

Edited by DavidCBroad
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The one I cancelled in December 2015 arrived today.........................................................................................................................

 

 

post-17779-0-55489000-1487190250_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-17779-0-84234300-1487190258_thumb.jpg

 

 

it`s only the number plates that fall short of outstanding.......................................................................................

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Forgive me if this has been mentioned before, but has anyone had any experience of removing the factory-fitted cabside numberplates, prior to fitting new/different numbers, please?

Same issue with the Heljan 1366 - have a enquiry with rail-tec on them producing a 3D number transfer that will fit in to moulded numberplate. Indications are they think it should be possible.

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Looking forward to mine arriving on Friday at work

Looking forward to mine arriving, full stop.

I don't trust RM though.

Hattons said it would be despatched RM 2 day tracked.

They were right, according to RM's tracking it has been in Warrington mail centre for 2 days! (In fact for 53 hours so far)

 

Keith

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Looking forward to mine arriving, full stop.

I don't trust RM though.

Hattons said it would be despatched RM 2 day tracked.

They were right, according to RM's tracking it has been in Warrington mail centre for 2 days! (In fact for 53 hours so far)

 

Keith

Mine arrived today, two days after despatch advice from Hattons.

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Does anyone know where I can find that table released early in this project showing the shed codes and applicable time period of each livery in service? Was a great resource.

 

Post Number one has the shed codes: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92852-hattons-announce-14xx-48xx-58xx/page-1

 

I cant remember seeing a table with time periods on it.

Edited by Captainalbino
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Tried the Hattons 14XX on a half circle of Triang super 4  1st Radius / 14  5/8th" Radius and it ran very sweetly when I finally got all 6 wheels on the track. It was clearly right on the limit of the sideplay.

 

Thank you very much indeed for that, David.  Much appreciated.

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Looking forward to mine arriving, full stop.

I don't trust RM though.

Hattons said it would be despatched RM 2 day tracked.

They were right, according to RM's tracking it has been in Warrington mail centre for 2 days! (In fact for 53 hours so far)

 

Keith

 

Mine arrived today, two days after despatch advice from Hattons.

The RM tracking website has now been updated with more details showing it is to be delivered today.

 

Keith

 

EDIT I've had this before where the tracking isn't updated until the day of delivery, or on one case after delivery has been made!

Edited by melmerby
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Guest chris.trebble

The one I cancelled in December 2015 arrived today.........................................................................................................................

 

 

attachicon.gifDSC03691.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

attachicon.gifDSC03690.JPG

 

 

it`s only the number plates that fall short of outstanding.......................................................................................

 

Thanks for the outstanding pictures. Such a great model spoiled by the recessed number plates. Had wanted to buy one, but this fault makes it unlikely that I will do so (Hornby horizontal handrail knobs had the same effect on purchasing some of their models).

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Thanks for the outstanding pictures. Such a great model spoiled by the recessed number plates. Had wanted to buy one, but this fault makes it unlikely that I will do so .

Really ? They are that bad ?

Are you going to run alongside down the layout with yer magnifying glass to spot it ?

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From one I've handled the plates seem almost flush with sides, so I'm hoping replacement plates can just sit on top, granted that's if replacement plates are at least the same size or bigger.

Edited by 9793
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From one I've handled the plates seem almost flush with sides, so I'm hoping replacement plates can just sit on top, granted that's if replacement plates are at least the same size or bigger.

I said the same further up the thread: on mine the plates are just a tiny fraction above the surface so may need simply grinding down slightly if replacing them Edited by sp1
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I said the same further up the thread: on mine the plates are just a tiny fraction above the surface so may need simply grinding down slightly if replacing them

Thanks, do you think it would be possibly to remove the original plates out to sand down off the model, to avoid damaging the loco?

Edited by 9793
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Really ? They are that bad ?

Are you going to run alongside down the layout with yer magnifying glass to spot it ?

Like the (very slightly) wonky numberplates on mine - at normal viewing distances, angles and lighting, it'd be barely noticeable.

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Thanks, do you think it would be possibly to remove the original plates out to sand down off the model, to avoid damaging the loco?

Not sure about that, but my thoughts would be to use a cone shaped tool in a Dremel type mini drill- would need a steady hand!
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Not sure about that, but my thoughts would be to use a cone shaped tool in a Dremel type mini drill- would need a steady hand!

Hmmm, it's an expensive mistake if it goes wrong. I'll be looking to try and get my plates out. Another reason the recess was a stupid idea.

Edited by 9793
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