Miss Prism Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tractionman Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 Just received this afternoon my much waited for 4825. I have been reading the topics on this blog with interest and must say that I don't care what is not quite right this model is leagues ahead of my old Airfix 14xx.... To show what a smart model it is I have literally taken it straight out of the box, plonked in various settings on my Little Muddle layout and taken a series of pictures, here are what I think are the best. It will end up altered with the couplings removed and changed for S&W hooks, weathered and DCC module added. I suspect I will add some loco irons and crew as well but very little else needs to be done Highly recommend especially if you are into the GWR as it is such an iconic loco (then I am biased of course). Well done Hatton's and DJModels for this great addition to the GWR range. Kevin that's it - I want one!! those photos have just swung it for me. I'll have to have twin running lines, one LMS and one GWR... or somehow add in a branch line. all the best, Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chris.trebble Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 They are a darn sight better than the print on ones we get from some other manufacturers. Maybe, but the real problem is the recesses. At least with print on ones, etched plates can be superimposed to emulate the real thing but recesses remain as visual distractions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) Mine arrived today, however I will be contacting Hattons in the morning and sending it back.On Analogue it's fairly smooth although in reverse it has a really quite pronounced tight spot. However on DCC it's very poor. It's noisy and on acceleration it tends to jolt on speed steps (lenz system). I've fitted it with a Lenz silver mini which are a very good decoder but you wouldn't think so from watching it run. I even changed to a decoder I had in a Bachmann 64XX but this time it just buzzed. It had crossed my mind that it could be the built in capacitors (which I normally remove) causing the issues, but with it's odd design it's not easy to get the body off (Hattons recommended not removing the body when I enquired some months ago). Will return to Hattons and see what can be done. At the moment though, I feel really disappointed. Edited February 16, 2017 by 9793 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 I don't . Ain't got that far yet. Your gonna go for the P4 correct gauge stick next aintcha. No, not at all, no need for any of that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 If the number plates really won't come out that easily, then on the assumption that they are plastic, I would hope that a number 10 curved scalpel blade and a steady hand might solve the problem by removing just that thickness of plastic that protrudes above the surface of the body and thus permitting an etched replacement to be glued flush over what's left of the old one. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 Looks like there's about to be a glut of Airfix/Hornby 14xx on Ebay... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I am also slightly wary of the wonky coupling rods in some shots, such as the first of Coachman's above. Do these straighten out once running? This also put me off the Kernow O2, apart from the fact that a version without push-pull apparatus has not yet been produced in postwar SR livery. Worry not. It's what we call slack in the rods and is not unusual. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 If the number plates really won't come out that easily, then on the assumption that they are plastic, I would hope that a number 10 curved scalpel blade and a steady hand might solve the problem by removing just that thickness of plastic that protrudes above the surface of the body and thus permitting an etched replacement to be glued flush over what's left of the old one. They are etched plates. In fact if you want them to look gleaming and ex-works, just scrape the border and numbers very gently with the point of a scalpel blade and they really gleam! (CJL) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2017 They are etched plates. In fact if you want them to look gleaming and ex-works, just scrape the border and numbers very gently with the point of a scalpel blade and they really gleam! (CJL) Thanks Chris, that's interesting. There really must be a way of removing them from the plastic body shell, then. I wonder if a bit of drilling out from behind might work? I wonder whether one of the Daves might be able to offer some suggestions on here, perhaps? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 However on DCC it's very poor. It's noisy and on acceleration it tends to jolt on speed steps (lenz system). I've fitted it with a Lenz silver mini which are a very good decoder but you wouldn't think so from watching it run. I even changed to a decoder I had in a Bachmann 64XX but this time it just buzzed. It had crossed my mind that it could be the built in capacitors (which I normally remove) causing the issues, but with it's odd design it's not easy to get the body off (Hattons recommended not removing the body when I enquired some months ago). Will return to Hattons and see what can be done. At the moment though, I feel really disappointed. That's mostly due to the coreless motor, you will need to tweek a few cv's to get good performance. I no longer use lenz decoders but have had good results with Zimo in Kernows O2, also with coreless motor Still waiting for my 14xx (weathered version) to arrive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) That's mostly due to the coreless motor, you will need to tweek a few cv's to get good performance. I no longer use lenz decoders but have had good results with Zimo in Kernows O2, also with coreless motor Still waiting for my 14xx (weathered version) to arrive. Thank you, I'm awaiting to here back from the product department of Hattons on the matter. I did fit a Digitrax decoder from in one of my 64XX's but the loco just buzzed. The tight spot however is one of the main issues though which I think is effecting it. Thanks for the info on the Zimo decoder. Edited February 17, 2017 by 9793 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tim Hall Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2017 Looks like there's about to be a glut of Airfix/Hornby 14xx on Ebay... Got rid of mine a few weeks ago...in anticipation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 7007GreatWestern Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 That's mostly due to the coreless motor, you will need to tweek a few cv's to get good performance. I no longer use lenz decoders but have had good results with Zimo in Kernows O2, also with coreless motor Still waiting for my 14xx (weathered version) to arrive. I've had the Hattons/DJM 1470 for a few weeks now. I fitted the Zimo MX622N and got disappointing performance when running with factory default CV values. I then looked at the Zimo online manual:- http://www.zimo.at/web2010/documents/MX-KleineDecoder_E.pdf Page 17 recommends the following for "small coreless" motor: CV9=51 / CV56=133 I duly entered the CV values as recommended and performance was transformed for the better. Hope this helps. Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenL Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 14xx-ashpan-approx.png Thanks Miss Prism, that is helpful and makes it look nice and simple, although I'm not sure I trust myself to do a job that will be in keeping with fineness of the rest of the model. If Hattons aren't going to produce an ashpan for these, maybe this is a job for Brassmasters? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2017 Why o Why ! are you all twittering about the number plates when there is a more glaring problem........................................ about sanding the permanentway Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rembrow Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Received my first pre order yesterday, 1409 in BR unlined late crest and am very impressed. A smooth runner straight from the box. I was one that was concerned about the use of the cabside depressions to locate the number plates and had posted as such on here, but I'm eating my words. I cannot see any join and the effect is good and you do get a plate with numbers and border proud of the backing colour. The very clear enlarged photos we saw of the prototypes, did for me, give a false impression of the overall effect. Again, without using my modelling magnifying glasses, the slight extensions to the cabside handrails are not noticeable. This is a lovely model loco and I can't wait for my second order in BR lined green. I've also decided to order a 58xx model in BR black, which wasn't on the original agenda. Going back to the cabside number plates, it's been reported that they are flush to the cabside. I've run a cocktail stick point down the cabside and on mine, every part of both number plate edges are proud of the cabside. It's only just proud and not sure if it is to scale, but putting another etched plate on top may leave a gap around the edge, if the new plate extends over the old plate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Why o Why ! are you all twittering about the number plates when there is a more glaring problem........................................ about sanding the permanentway DSC03690.JPG Mine were the same - they were easily tweaked to line up with wheels. Lamp brackets were a bit drunk too, but re-aligned without harm. Trouble is, if they hadn't been flexible enough for me to have done so I'd have been less happy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2017 Thanks for the tip re the sandpipes Coppercap..................... I still think it is a brilliant RTR model of my favourite GWR loco despite some design choices. The coreless motor has prevented me from playing at the moment until i fit a sound decoder. I`ll wait until someone else fits their own first though. And still n0body has produced a decent sound file, that I`m aware, for what must be the most popular model loco ever. I shall bring the number plates on mine back to life with some Phoenix /precision enamel brass paint...., 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 ...However on DCC it's very poor. It's noisy and on acceleration it tends to jolt on speed steps (lenz system). I've fitted it with a Lenz silver mini which are a very good decoder but you wouldn't think so from watching it run... I think you will find that practically any decoder will require CV adjustments to get the best from a coreless motor. Decoders are supplied with factory settings for the most commonly used iron core design motors. Really it is down to Hattons/DJM in choosing to 'deviate' onto the coreless path to perhaps suggest the optimal CV settings for commonly used decoders, so that users don't have to scratch around for themselves? But whatever, first obtain a mechanism that runs smoothly on DC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 How many of the moaners/nit pickers can actually build a kit to the standard of these models ? Actually my kit built ones have an ash pan and a sprung rear wheel so the rear drivers are always on the track, though they are missing the steps and handrails as per 1935. I'll get my coat!!!!!!! Mike Wiltshire Note - have I bought one - no I didn't need another so I bought a Chiltern 68 instead....but that's another story! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2017 How many of the moaners/nit pickers can actually build a kit to the standard of these models ? It never ceases to amaze me how many "spotters" want perfect replica's and then run them on Hornby set track on foam ballast on a Hornby trackmat. Jeez..... I think I can.......................................... Which is why I can a ppreciate a good RTR model when I see one.............. 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp1 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I think I can.......................................... DSC02881.JPG Which is why I can a ppreciate a good RTR model when I see one.............. Wow! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2017 Show off lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I think I can.......................................... DSC02881.JPG Which is why I can a ppreciate a good RTR model when I see one.............. Well that's two of yers.Now sat here waiting for the avalanche Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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