Butler Henderson Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 An possible alternative way of renumbering is use part of the etched Martin Finney numberplate set from Brassmasters http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/gwr_fittings.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Hmmm, it's an expensive mistake if it goes wrong. I'll be looking to try and get my plates out. Another reason the recess was a stupid idea. I think you're right on both counts Well, I thought the recess was to allow accurate positioning of the numberplates, but they were still applied slightly wonky on mine. Maybe they would have been a lot worse without the recess! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Hmmm, it's an expensive mistake if it goes wrong. I'll be looking to try and get my plates out. Another reason the recess was a stupid idea. I've just tried a spare GWR plate on the side of 5819 and I don't reckon you need to remove the old plate or the lettering at all. I certainly wouldn't go trying to grind bits off. The numbers and border on the recessed plate are flush with the surface of the side (a 10thou plate in a 10thou hole I suspect). Just stick the new plate straight on top. I think the recess is to simplify assembly. How else do you ensure that every plate is correctly positioned when they are being hand applied? I guess that's why other manufacturers print them, so that they can ensure consistency. (CJL) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) I've just tried a spare GWR plate on the side of 5819 and I don't reckon you need to remove the old plate or the lettering at all. I certainly wouldn't go trying to grind bits off. The numbers and border on the recessed plate are flush with the surface of the side (a 10thou plate in a 10thou hole I suspect). Just stick the new plate straight on top. I think the recess is to simplify assembly. How else do you ensure that every plate is correctly positioned when they are being hand applied? I guess that's why other manufacturers print them, so that they can ensure consistency. (CJL) That is good news and an easy fix. What plates are you using? I've some modelmaster ones at the ready to renumver my 58xx but I'm hoping they are a similar size to the Hattons plates. Edited February 16, 2017 by 9793 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Another box opening....00 and 0 Positives: A really neat model. Negatives..... The smokebox plate is slightly askew. Recessed cabside plates flush with platework. Batterybox superfluous on a non auto fitted 58XX......All probably easily altered. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I think the recess is to simplify assembly. How else do you ensure that every plate is correctly positioned when they are being hand applied? (CJL) See my post #1256 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp1 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I've just tried a spare GWR plate on the side of 5819 and I don't reckon you need to remove the old plate or the lettering at all. I certainly wouldn't go trying to grind bits off. The numbers and border on the recessed plate are flush with the surface of the side (a 10thou plate in a 10thou hole I suspect). Just stick the new plate straight on top. I think the recess is to simplify assembly. How else do you ensure that every plate is correctly positioned when they are being hand applied? I guess that's why other manufacturers print them, so that they can ensure consistency. (CJL) Hmm.... On mine its ever slightly raised above the sides (when I say ever so slightly it is a tiny amount, but I can see and feel it) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 16, 2017 Come on, the recess wasn't that bad an idea. Perhaps it could have been a bit shallower, or the plates could have been a bit thicker, but I'm not gonna go through all the hassle of changing an etched plate for an etched plate, when at normal distances you won't notice them anyway. Personally, I think this whole recess thing has blown way out of proportion. Look at some of Dapols new Class 68 plates that are factory fitted. Some are way off and the glue is visible around the edges. I'd prefer a recess with good fitting plates than no recess and plates at a jaunty angle. Just my opinion mind, I'm not saying everyone should agree with it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Come on, the recess wasn't that bad an idea. Perhaps it could have been a bit shallower, or the plates could have been a bit thicker, but I'm not gonna go through all the hassle of changing an etched plate for an etched plate, when at normal distances you won't notice them anyway. Personally, I think this whole recess thing has blown way out of proportion. Look at some of Dapols new Class 68 plates that are factory fitted. Some are way off and the glue is visible around the edges. I'd prefer a recess with good fitting plates than no recess and plates at a jaunty angle. Just my opinion mind, I'm not saying everyone should agree with it!How many of the moaners/nit pickers can actually build a kit to the standard of these models ?It never ceases to amaze me how many "spotters" want perfect replica's and then run them on Hornby set track on foam ballast on a Hornby trackmat. Jeez..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom F Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Come on, the recess wasn't that bad an idea. Perhaps it could have been a bit shallower, or the plates could have been a bit thicker, but I'm not gonna go through all the hassle of changing an etched plate for an etched plate, when at normal distances you won't notice them anyway. Personally, I think this whole recess thing has blown way out of proportion. Look at some of Dapols new Class 68 plates that are factory fitted. Some are way off and the glue is visible around the edges. I'd prefer a recess with good fitting plates than no recess and plates at a jaunty angle. Just my opinion mind, I'm not saying everyone should agree with it! Good for you.... However for those of us that actually model a prototype, we need to renumber our locos to match those that worked a specific area..... So in my case, I need to renumber my 58XX....and if it had been done like conventional models, it would have been a lot simpler job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 16, 2017 Good for you.... However for those of us that actually model a prototype, we need to renumber our locos to match those that worked a specific area..... So in my case, I need to renumber my 58XX....and if it had been done like conventional models, it would have been a lot simpler job. In fairness though, RTR models cater to the masses, and not the few that model a certain prototype. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Good for you.... However for those of us that actually model a prototype, we need to renumber our locos to match those that worked a specific area..... So in my case, I need to renumber my 58XX....and if it had been done like conventional models, it would have been a lot simpler job. Well I'm already sorted with 4825. When these were announced, I asked my dad (now 91) if he remembered the numbers of the 48'ers at Southall before the war. Without prompting he said 4825 came to mind (not that it actually came home to Southall that often on a day to day basis, except for things like a boiler washout), so I ordered it as soon as it was orderable. Sadly due to his failing eyesight he can't appreciative the model as much as he'd like to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 In fairness though, RTR models cater to the masses, and not the few that model a certain prototype. And who may they be then...the masses and the anointed few? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNP Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) Just received this afternoon my much waited for 4825. I have been reading the topics on this blog with interest and must say that I don't care what is not quite right this model is leagues ahead of my old Airfix 14xx.... To show what a smart model it is I have literally taken it straight out of the box, plonked in various settings on my Little Muddle layout and taken a series of pictures, here are what I think are the best. It will end up altered with the couplings removed and changed for S&W hooks, weathered and DCC module added. I suspect I will add some loco irons and crew as well but very little else needs to be done Highly recommend especially if you are into the GWR as it is such an iconic loco (then I am biased of course). Well done Hatton's and DJModels for this great addition to the GWR range. Kevin Edited February 16, 2017 by KNP 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chris.trebble Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Really ? They are that bad ? Are you going to run alongside down the layout with yer magnifying glass to spot it ? Unfortunately, they are that bad - particularly as GWR cast number plates were uniquely prominent. I have read others' comments regarding possible ways to replace/overlay plates but these all point out potentially inherent problems. I also note the comments regarding positioning of the number plates during factory assembly, but surely some sort of template could have been used? Perhaps Hattons/DJ Models could develop and supply a part to precisely overlay the recessed plates - even if this comes at extra cost to buyers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Here's mine with a spare plate (actually from Fair Rosamund) just laid on top of the original. It's not perfectly positioned but if it was you wouldn't see anything of the original plate - especially if you painted it black. The new plate might protrude a tiny fraction too far but if you want to renumber the loco that's preferable to wrecking the cabside trying to file down the old plate or dig it out of the recess. (CJL) 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 In case anyone is wondering, GWR plates are 3/4" thick. (0.25mm, 0.010" in 4mm) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 It never ceases to amaze me how many "spotters" want perfect replica's and then run them on Hornby set track on foam ballast on a Hornby trackmat. That may well be. What sort of track do you use, then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
71H Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) That may well be. What sort of track do you use, then? I'm considering using Hornby Dublo 3 Rail when my H1415 arrives lol Edited February 16, 2017 by 71H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bigcheeseplant Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) I have ordered a BR black one with top feed which will become 1473, I see that the ashpan is missing, but I will stick a High Level chassis under it anyway. The Chimney still does not look right but I am sure it can be sorted out there was no step between the parallel section and flare. Edited February 16, 2017 by David Bigcheeseplant 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenL Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Just received this afternoon my much waited for 4825. I have been reading the topics on this blog with interest and must say that I don't care what is not quite right this model is leagues ahead of my old Airfix 14xx.... To show what a smart model it is I have literally taken it straight out of the box, plonked in various settings on my Little Muddle layout and taken a series of pictures, here are what I think are the best. It will end up altered with the couplings removed and changed for S&W hooks, weathered and DCC module added. I suspect I will add some loco irons and crew as well but very little else needs to be done Highly recommend especially if you are into the GWR as it is such an iconic loco (then I am biased of course). Well done Hatton's and DJModels for this great addition to the GWR range. Kevin Thanks for these shots Kevin. It really does look stunning but I still can't bring myself to overlook the absent ashpan - in the first shot you can see how it makes the loco look a little 'thin' midships. But maybe it won't be too difficult to represent the ashpan with some plasticard. Or maybe I should just get over this; it's just frustrating that such an otherwise superb model has such a glaring omission. I suspect I will eventually get over it and buy one, or maybe even the planned two. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenL Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I am also slightly wary of the wonky coupling rods in some shots, such as the first of Coachman's above. Do these straighten out once running? This also put me off the Kernow O2, apart from the fact that a version without push-pull apparatus has not yet been produced in postwar SR livery. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) That may well be. What sort of track do you use, then? I don't . Ain't got that far yet.Your gonna go for the P4 correct gauge stick next aintcha. Edited February 16, 2017 by lofty1966 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Unfortunately, they are that bad - particularly as GWR cast number plates were uniquely prominent. I have read others' comments regarding possible ways to replace/overlay plates but these all point out potentially inherent problems. I also note the comments regarding positioning of the number plates during factory assembly, but surely some sort of template could have been used? Perhaps Hattons/DJ Models could develop and supply a part to precisely overlay the recessed plates - even if this comes at extra cost to buyers?They are a darn sight better than the print on ones we get from some other manufacturers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 Thanks for sharing that Chris, interesting to hear the plate is almost flush (and very grateful to hear it). Apart from that, the handrails that will be an easy fix, and the missing ash pan, the model looks very good. Going to be very tough to resist after all! Thinking about the slight protrusion of the etched plate some more, commissioning a replacement plate from someone like narrow planet in a fractionally thinner grade of brass may be the soloution. If it wasn't for the fact that as far as I am aware there were no regular 14xx workings through Brent or on the Kingsbridge branch, nor any photos that I have seen of a one off working I'd be ordering the wartime black one tonight... As with the Kernow tank it feels a bit wasteful to buy a £90 loco which is only useable for a working to / from Newton Abbot Works..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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