Heljan class 17

[birdseyecircus]

The plastic lenses to the boxes can be removed to allow installation of the paper codes.

 

This may be carried out carefully with a scalpel, or alternatively attaching a piece of sellotape provides enough tack to remove the lens with a gentle tug (mind the paintwork though).

 

The paper codes need to be trimmed carefully to ensure that they sit flat within the boxes. There is a slight bevel to the edge of the lens, ensure that this is the right way round such that the 'interference fit' works when they are pushed back into the openings.

 

N

 

Once fitted you may well be wise turning off the headcode light if running on DCC. - You'll see why!

Mine is running on my DC layout circle st and looks terrible. I may well have to remove the bulb.

 

Paul

[bluex5]

I quite like the look of the illuminated headcodes on other Heljan locos but I have to agree the Clayton arrangement looks awful. Had I known I would of followed the above advice and not bothered soldering the wires back on after the chassis swop.

[davknigh]

The problem with the headcode light is that rather than a bulb there is an LED which is much more focused (and bright) and produces the uneven illumination. So, you have a choice of leaving it disconnected, salvaging the LED for other uses (ditch lights for Canadian engines?) or fitting a diffuser of some sort. I took option two.

 

Cheers,

 

David

[birdseyecircus]

If you're re fitting the body it's easier not to re solder the lighting wires, that way theres no problems losing the bulb.

 

Not re soldering anything here! i know i should not say it as it's tempting fate but my Clayton is one of the original releases and after lots of running has not gone up in smoke yet!

(Don't you just know it will shortly?!!!!)

Out of interest how may other people are running first release Claytons that have the original chassis with no ill effects?

 

Paul

[reevesthecat]

What are people recomending -don't resolder the leads after changing the chassis because the bulbs are burning through the paper headcode numbers? Are there any tail lights and were the lights noticable on the prototype anyway (apart from at night).

cheers

mark

[bluex5]

What are people recomending -don't resolder the leads after changing the chassis because the bulbs are burning through the paper headcode numbers? Are there any tail lights and were the lights noticable on the prototype anyway (apart from at night).

cheers

mark

 

The lights don't damage anything, it's just that you get a white square in the middle of the headcode panel rather than a uniform yellowish glow (which Heljan actually managed to acheive quite well on their other diesels). In daytime though diesel lighting was pretty indistinct before high intensity markers were introduced, this is the case with both heacode boxes and also discs / marker lights.

[reevesthecat]

hi

thanks for your answers, was thinking of swopping chassis today but may not have time now! Will probably not resolder looking at replies.

cheers

mark

[chris37422]

Can the slow running problems be rectified on the Class 17?

[davknigh]

Can the slow running problems be rectified on the Class 17?

 

It depends on how much work you are prepared to do. The worm gear bearings need to be sorted as they seem to pinch the worm in some models. The original motor tends to cog and may burn up unless the mechanism is freed up. The gearing is a double reduction in the first place (not a bad thing) so even with the best of luck your 17 will not double head with anything unless you are running on DCC. In short, be prepared to strip the engine down to the bare frame if you have one of the first run, if you can do this without a trembling hand a runner can be made of it.

 

All that said I've re-motored mine and freed up the worms and it works much better than it did before. I still need to tweak it a bit but that can wait for a while as I have other jobs on the go.

 

HTH

 

David

[chris37422]

It depends on how much work you are prepared to do. The worm gear bearings need to be sorted as they seem to pinch the worm in some models. The original motor tends to cog and may burn up unless the mechanism is freed up. The gearing is a double reduction in the first place (not a bad thing) so even with the best of luck your 17 will not double head with anything unless you are running on DCC. In short, be prepared to strip the engine down to the bare frame if you have one of the first run, if you can do this without a trembling hand a runner can be made of it.

 

All that said I've re-motored mine and freed up the worms and it works much better than it did before. I still need to tweak it a bit but that can wait for a while as I have other jobs on the go.

 

HTH

 

David

 

David, thank you very much.

 

Chris

[Brian D]

Have now finally removed the scale coupling links so the auto couplers could be fitted and also fitted the head codes. The performance is superb I think - fantastically low geared. Ideal for shunting the yard at Hawthorn Town on the pick up goods - see photo.

[nimbamoss]

Hi Gang, Glad to see you are having fun with the new chassis, sadly still awaiting the return of mine...

Sent it back in August, rang yesterday and was told it was still waiting in a box with many others, anyone else still waiting??

 

 

Ian

['CHARD]

Hi Gang, Glad to see you are having fun with the new chassis, sadly still awaiting the return of mine...

Sent it back in August, rang yesterday and was told it was still waiting in a box with many others, anyone else still waiting??

 

 

Ian

 

Not a peep by way of response from the vendor of my quartet; their two sisters from the recent batch are running a treat, making the poor mech and fit of the early ones even poorer by direct comparison. If there is still no response by the end of the month I shall be politely asking Heljan if they would have a word...

[nimbamoss]

I must say though, I think that Heljan has treated the shop's quite badly.

The shop I sent back to has to bring in a guy to do the rebuild. All the extra expense for some of the smaller shops must be crippling.

 

Ian

[johnd]

Looking to fit a decoder to 8612 and see that it is possible to remove the cab.

 

Is this all that is needed to fit a decoder and if so are there any clips holding the cab on or how do you go about removing it as mentioned in the Heljan instructions or does one have to remove the whole body.

 

Must admit it runs well and really like the low top speed.

[stock_2007]

Hi can anyone tell me if D8561 is one of the 2nd batch with the revised chassis sorry if this has been asked before

[Guest Max Stafford]

8561 was in the first batch, Will.

 

Dave.

[rossoblade]

I posted some time ago about how some shops were not particularly happy with how things had gone and had had no news about when replacement chassis would be forthcoming. I am wondering if I can get to the 1st anniversary without a replacement, afterall it is not too far away.

[EEType4]

I have 3 Clayton's which run reasonably O.K.-ish.

 

A 4th has recieved the updated chassis and now puts the others to shame in terms of running.

 

My problem is I am blowed if I can remember where I bought the other 3 loco's from, as I frequent a few shops as well as the usual box shifters and toy fairs, and a such could not take up the original chassis replacement offer.

 

This might sound odd but my collection is currently in excess of 600 diesels (I know I'm not alone in that one!).

 

So rang Howes with my tale of woe, who explained that they had only recieved enough chassis' to service their retail customers and gave me Hejan's number in Denmark.

 

Then spoke to a very pleasant Lady at Heljan who politely told me that there are no more chassis, full stop. Despite being a loyal Heljan customer (around 150 of their locos in the layout room) it was a no can do. One of those "the computer says no" conversations. Very polite but no use.

 

I get the feelling that the whole batch 1 Clayton affair will now be left to disapear into the mists of time until we all forget.

 

I know it's not the end of the world, but it does leave a bad taste in the mouth.

[Guest Max Stafford]

I'm still owed 2 by Signal Box, but they weren't too optimistic about replacements the last time I spoke to them.

 

Dave.

['CHARD]

I'm still owed 2 by Signal Box, but they weren't too optimistic about replacements the last time I spoke to them.

 

Dave.

 

Still owed 4 by Liars (anag.), whose optimism cannot be gauged behind their Berlin Wall of silence.

 

And now I'm teaching myself Danish for Gricers: Trading Standards Edition, as I compose a rather polite letter regarding this situation.

 

Tak

Med venlig hilsen

'CHARD

[Guest Max Stafford]

Med venlig Hilsen? Wasn't he a vampire hunter?

 

Dave.

['CHARD]

Med venlig Hilsen? Wasn't he a vampire hunter?

 

Dave.

 

He slew the lost Seacow of Bolton mate

[Legend]

I think the issue was that you had to report your faulty chassis to your retailer by a certain date (can't remember when- but could it have been 30th April?). If you did, you seem to have got a chassis. If you didn't or your retailer didn't then you are still waiting.

 

I'm not sure this was well publicised at the time. It does seem that some people have lost out.

['CHARD]

I'm not going to reprise the exhaustive detail again just now, it's buried further up the thread after all, but suffice to say:

 

• early Claytons can be runners but not fit for purpose
• you can only establish what an early Clayton should have been like when you benchmark against a properly made one
• you couldn't do this comparison until just before Christmas when the decent ones were released
• the April ultimatum doesn't hold water in the Sale of Goods Act
• many Claytons now fall into this inbetweener category, incapable of proper layout use or remedy

hence that's why I'm endeavouring to find this third way, which may or may not end up involving the retailer (never has the phrase box-shifter, which I usually hate, been more apt) as well as the manufacturer.