SCRATCHBUILDING AN EX LSWR G6

[Jon Fitness]

Lovely work Peter. Very jealous of your ability to accurately cut out all those exquisite valve gear pieces, eccentrics, cranks, fork joints and pins and get it all working so nicely. Awesome.  

I'm still looking for better ways of linking up signal wires to cranks and weight bars. If I engineer less slop and wobble into them they start to resemble motion and not signal links!

Jon F.

[N15class]

Lovely work Peter. Very jealous of your ability to accurately cut out all those exquisite valve gear pieces, eccentrics, cranks, fork joints and pins and get it all working so nicely. Awesome.  

I'm still looking for better ways of linking up signal wires to cranks and weight bars. If I engineer less slop and wobble into them they start to resemble motion and not signal links!

Jon F.

 

Thanks Jon

 

It works both ways. When I see your signals. I then get the jitters as I will need three lattice posts and about 10 ground signals for my Bodmin layout.

 

It is always a pain getting things tight enough not to wobble but still work freely.

[N15class]

I have now fitted the brakes. I made some shoes from plasticard and got them nice and close to the wheels.

 

The pull rods took some time to construct but well worth the effort. It is all removable, with the top of the hangers being tube they slip over the wire frame hangers.

 

 

 

 

The rear is temporarily held with a length of wire. This will be replaced by two short pieces on final assembly.

 

 

 

 

The front sand pipes have also been added although this one looks short I will need to check next time I am at the bench.

 

 

 

Time to press on with the body.

 

[N15class]

Now a start has been made on the body. First was to cut out the parts for the footplate.

 

The hanging plates were cut from some 0.7mm brass that I have it is 70/30 so a bit soft and a bu@@er to cut. The buffer planks are also brass and of a harder variety.

 

 

 

The footplate itself is 0.010" nickel silver sheet. It was marked out then pinned to a piece of MDF to keep it flat whilst the parts were soldered to it. The front buffer plank was first, then the 2 hanging plates, followed by the rear plank, once all was checked to be correct.

 

 

 

I then cut out the inside that I had marked out in the flat and we end up with this.

 

 

 

Then a quick try on the frames to check all fitted without catching anywhere.

 

 

 

 

Now on with the bits that make it look like I have done something.

 

 

 

 

[N15class]

The work on the body has continued.

 

The cab and tank sides were cut out first. To these were added the tank tops, and part of the inside face too. The cab beading was next. I now need to find out what prototype I am copying as some had a short hand rail in front cab opening. The tank end and sides inside the cab will be fixed after the floor is in, unless I decide to make the cab floor removable.

 

 

 

just a quick check to see if they look right on the footplate. I will fix the footplate to another piece of MDF to hold it straight while the superstructure is added, before anything is soldered.

 

 

 

I then cut a strip of brass to the right width to make the parts for the cab etc. I find this the easiest way to make them all the same width. From this strip I cut the can front and rear, the bunker front and rear.

 

I made a miss calculation on the cab rear and had to make the curved turn under as a separate bit. Here is from top to bottom, Cab front, cab rear, and turn under.

 

 

Next up is the bunker from with the coal hole, there is a tool box to be added one to each side.

 

 

And finally for now the bunker rear which has been curved to suit the sides, and now just needs adjusting for height.

 

 

Maybe next time I will be able to fix some of this together. But all in all it seems to be progressing nicely. 

[N15class]

Now the serious progress begins.

 

I have now tacked the sides and bunker rear in place, I used the other cab parts as spacers to get everything the right distance apart.

 

 

 

 

The cab rear spectacle plat and bunker front were made up into a unit. I have spotted the coal hole plate handle is lopsided and will need sorting out. I am quite pleased with this although it is three parts instead of two.

 

 

 

 

Next I tacked this in place one to check it fitted OK and secondly to keep it safe as it is a little fragile. It also helps when setting out other parts.

 

 

Not much to show but I have been busy cutting out bits of brass and nickel silver. So stay tuned.

 

[hayfield]

Peter

 

I am just gob-smacked at the speed you work at, I guess to a certain extent working to your ideas/plans may be quicker than deciphering what the kit builder intended

 

A couple of questions please, I have heard some scratch builders blue the sheet so their marks can be seen, what do you use please?

 

Secondly how / with what do you cut the sheet metal please

 

Smashing bit of modelling I must say and very inspirational.

 

As it happens I was looking at the Roxey G6 kit today, I am enjoying building the Beattie well tank and thoughts of buying my next 7 mm loco. I do like the P class but as I have a LSWR loco perhaps either the G6 or 02 would be a nice/better partner, could even stretch to an Adams Radial. These are a good impetus to sell more of my surplus 4 mm locos. As for coaches I may start with a 4 wheeled one first, but Roxey only do bogie LSWR passenger coaches 

[N15class]

Peter

 

I am just gob-smacked at the speed you work at, I guess to a certain extent working to your ideas/plans may be quicker than deciphering what the kit builder intended

 

A couple of questions please, I have heard some scratch builders blue the sheep so their marks can be seen, what do you use please?

 

Secondly how / with what do you cut the sheet metal please

 

Smashing bit of modelling I must say and very inspirational.

 

As it happens I was looking at the Roxey G6 kit today, I am enjoying building the Beattie well tank and thoughts of buying my next 7 mm loco. I do like the P class but as I have a LSWR loco perhaps either the G6 or 02 would be a nice/better partner, could even stretch to an Adams Radial. These are a good impetus to sell more of my surplus 4 mm locos. As for coaches I may start with a 4 wheeled one first, but Roxey only do bogie LSWR passenger coaches

Thanks John

 

I have had dealings with the 0415 and 6 they are both reasonable but the 02 has dimension problems. I think Jims new O2 is a much better kit. As you seem to be finding 7mm very adictive.

 

For marking out the sheets I use an indelible pen and a scriber, or if I can I photocopy drawings to scale, I print more than enough in one go so they are all the same. I then cut out the bits required and use pritt stick to the sheets. I join two or sheets together when things like cab sides etc are needed. I use a fret saw to cut the basic shape. Then finish of with various files.

 

I will try and post some shots next time I am cutting out.

[MikeTrice]

 

blue the sheep

Cousin of Shaun by any chance? As typos go it could have been worse.

 

Peter, I am enjoying following this.

[N15class]

Cousin of Shaun by any chance? As typos go it could have been worse.Peter, I am enjoying following this.

 

Obviously spell checker knows bu@@er all about my thoughts or model making.

 

Thanks Mike glad you are enjoying the thread, I certainly am. But then I end up with a brand new loco.

 

Off to find the shepherd and remove the sheep.

[N15class]

Time to make the the boiler and smokebox.

 

The smokebox front and back were made first and then the wrapper was made to suit. I then decided to make a spacer to make assembly easier.

 

 

 

It all went together very well,

 

 

The boiler as for most tank engines a simple cut and roll job, Soldered along the seam and I will make a cut out for the motor later when I have got it closer to fitting.

 

 

Trial fit to see how it was and what adjustments needed to be done.

 

 

 

I made the front splasher and sand box units next but only took a picture of the finished items. They just need the width of the sand box reducing so it all fits nicely around the smokebox.

 

 

 

That's it for now, almost all the major parts done, then there will be lots of details to add.

[2ManySpams]

Looking very much like a G6 and you can really see the strong family likeness to the O2:

 

 

The way you're cracking on it's likely you'll finish first!

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Still amazed by the speed and ease you are making of the build.

 

Glad you are getting to the boiler as the boiler on mine is brass, it will need a bit of fettling plus boiler bands etc fitting. Photos and explanation of your methods would be really useful please.

[MikeTrice]

Also what are you using the cut the sheet material?

[hayfield]

Peter replied on post #84

 

Fret saw then files, however Peter do you clamp the sheet to a wooden sheet with a large V cut in it fixed to the bench to stop it from creasing?

[N15class]

Looking very much like a G6 and you can really see the strong family likeness to the O2:

 

rps20150613_084858.jpg

 

The way you're cracking on it's likely you'll finish first!

Thanks Chris

 

It will come to a grinding halt soon as I will need castings. And I am not happy to order as yet as there is no contact from Laurie to sort out the wrong castings sent last order. It looks like I am going to have to do more scratch Ivatt.

[N15class]

Peter

 

Still amazed by the speed and ease you are making of the build.

 

Glad you are getting to the boiler as the boiler on mine is brass, it will need a bit of fettling plus boiler bands etc fitting. Photos and explanation of your methods would be really useful please.

 

 

Also what are you using the cut the sheet material?

I will explain more as I come to cutting parts out. I made the basic cab roof yesterday, I did photo the process so will post shortly.

[N15class]

For those that are interest in the way I mark out, cut and form metal while scratch building.

 

As this is the first bit done since deciding to show my methods. It also happens to be the simplest bit of cutting and form, well I think it is anyway.

 

I am going to show you the routine for the cab roof of the G6. First off you need to find the roof size. Front to back is easy I measure the length of the cab and add 0.5mm overhang each end, some have more but this seems quite tight. For the length over the arc you can use geometry to get the answer, but with the model at hand I run a rule over the arc two or three times just to check it has not slipped, then add 1mm each side for over hang, this can be reduced with a file at the end if it is too much.

 

I am making this from 0.5mm (0.020") Make sure the the edge of the sheet is straight and true up with a file if needed, I tend to use just one sheet for this sort of cutting so the edge is always straight. It is best to plan your cuts so you do not waste material. It may be better sometimes to cut out in a different method if the off cut will be of no use for other parts.

As you see here I use a 12" rule as the straight edge this one is so worn the numbers are invisible. I then use my best 6" one to set the cutting edge from the edge of the sheet, This is good down to about 0.25mm.

 

 

Next I score with a heavy duty knife, lightly at first and getting a little heavier once there the score line is deep enough not let the blade wander.

 

 

 

 

I then remove the straight edge and score vertically and quite firmly keeping digits out of the way. With 0.5mm sheet it is hard to go through but you will find the sheet starts bending upwards, look at the reverse and you should see where the knife has been. I find it easy now to snap the sheet. If the sheet wants to bend rather than the cut the cut is not deep enough score more. On narrow items it is best to use a smooth jaw vice to help when snapping.

 

 

 

Next check that there is a square end if not either cut it square as shown below or tidy up with a file if it is only a little out.  To cut the length off the strip requires I set an engineers square with the ruler as with the first cut.

After repeating the cutting process you can snap the part off. You will notice I have marked a double arrow on it. This saves rolling it the wrong way, I often mark before I do any cutting. I have made things the wrong way around and try to avoid if possible.

 

 

Next we need to form the curve on this. It is a simple arc. I have used my rollers, but it is just as easy with a broom handle etc on a mouse mat or Yellow pages. This is the same whether it is a roof like this or a boiler barrel. I used the hand method on all my 4mm builds.

 

 

 

Here we are resting on the cab with the right radius etc. It now just needs detailing which will take far longer than this.

 

 

 

I will add another hopefully helpful hint next time I am at the bench. Do I continue here or start a separate thread, please let me know which would be best.

 

 

 

[Nelson Jackson]

Brilliant tutorial, thank you very much!

[N15class]

I soldered the splasher sandbox units to the foot plate after they had been fitted around the smokebox. I had been a little wrong with the cut out for the wheels. It was nearly to wide, but the splashers just covered the holes.

 

 

 

I made the joining ring for the smokebox boiler from 0.5mm sheet and after forming put a slight radius on the boiler side. You will also see that I have had to make a cut out either side for the narrow wheel gauge.

 

 

 

I also found out that I had measured the boiler incorrectly. I had measured from the ring not from the smoke box. It was easily fixed by adding some wire and then filing smooth on the outside.

 

 

 

Time to check the fit of the boiler, for this the spectacle plate was tacked in place. I also thought I ought to check on the footplate, and work out where the fixings will go before it is impossible to fit them.

 

 

And this is the hole you get to see the motion through. I think I need to paint it Dayglow Orange.

 

 

 

Thats it for now. I feel happy that all the major parts fit, and we are on the road to detailing.

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Looking good and I like the way you managed to get out of a spot of bother

[N15class]

Peter

 

Looking good and I like the way you managed to get out of a spot of bother

Thanks

 

It Is a method I have used on kits when etches are to narrow.

[RAY NORWOOD]

Hi Peter

It is all looking amassing, and your skills are fantastic. Keep up the good work.

[N15class]

Hi PeterIt is all looking amassing, and your skills are fantastic. Keep up the good work.

Thanks Ray

 

The nice thing about a loco body there are actually very few parts needed to make it. What slows you down is all the detailing after. Nice thing about Victorian locos they are fairly uncluttered unlike BR standards etc. Most oil pots etc are hidden makes my life easy must of been a nightmare for the driver.

[N15class]

Here is another part of my scratch building methods, (others are available)

 

Today I will be making the cab floor, the spacers to set the floor at the right height, two tool boxes to one each side of the coal hole, and the locker for the rear spectacle plate. Materials the floor is 0,5mm nickle silver. The tool boxes and locker are 0.25 brass as it was handy, and the spacers 0.5mm brass.

 

 

First off as they are quite simple shapes I do very poor sketches on a scrap of paper, this just acts as an aid memoir, and saves keep having to remember.

 

 

 

 

Next up is solder any multiple layers as needed. Here I have folded the end of a piece of material for the tool boxes, the locker will be cut from the rest of the piece. The floor spacers four pieces have been soldered together.

 

 

Next  we need to mark out for this I coat the surface with either black or blue indelible marker. Then it is a combination of ruler square, dividers and scriber. Again as before I make sure that one edge is straight, this then works as the datum for measuring and to square of off. the first picture shows the first line drawn. This was measured from the straight edge, I put the handle of the square against the edge and hold the ruler against this. It is the easiest way I know to get the ruler in line with the edge. I then mar the dimension with the scriber. I do this both sides of the sheet. Get them as far apart as possible as you end up with less error when the line is drawn.

 

 

You can use dividers with one pin extended slightly, or odd leg calipers. ( which I always mean to buy) Aswell for scribing these lines that are parallel to the datum edge.

 

I then draw a centre line using the square, I then prefer to use the dividers for marking out either side of it I just scribe a little arc with them at the set dimension, then locate the scriber point on the arc, you can often feel the tip going into the arc just scribed. Then slide the square to the scriber. I find this way around is more accurate for me.

 

 

 

Here are the the floor, boxes, and locker all marked out.

 

 

This is my set up for using the piercing saw.

 

 

 

 

Now hopefully the video I made whilst cutting out the floor will be of interest. I use 3 blade sizes for the saw. O, 4 O and 6 O.

 

 

 

 

 

To be continued, I will show how the parts are folded etc next post.