kes Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) I have decided that I should try to build a 7mm scale shunting layout to fit across the back of my motorhome. It needs to fold in half for storage. The available lenght across the van resting on the side window shelves is 6'6". This, conveniently is the length of a standard flush pannelled door. Having a few of these lying about, I found one which was 30" in width. This was cut in half lengthways and one of these halves was again cut lengthways. This gave me two boards 39" long, by 15" wide. The open sides of the cuts were infilled with 30mm timber, glued and pinned into place. Two supports 3" high were screwed either side of the ends, and these were joined by flap back hinges, so the whole assembly would fold up into a box 8" deep, 15" wide and 39" in length.. A trackplan was drawn up to see what I could fit in the space, and it soon became apparent that I needed turnouts with a radius of 40" in order to shunt 3 wagon trains. It was deliberately chosen so that only one wagon at a time could me moved from an incoming train and moved to the furthest sidings. A sector plate was used to provide the run round loop. which will be hidden behind a building and bridge of some sorts. These may have to be removable to allow the layout to fold. The points are going to be handmade using 6mm copper clad strip from Marcway in Sheffield, and Peco 125BH rail. The Copper clad will be spaced up to the point using my favourite material - cereal box card. The points will be operated by slide switches and wire in tube from the front edge of the boards. My plan of operation is as follows: A mainline 0-4-0T brings in two wagons and a brake van from the sector plate. The engine uncouples and moves forward into the headshunt, then runs around and removes the brake van from the rear of the wagons. It then places the brakevan in the long siding at the top, before running around again to the headshunt, then going down to the front road, along to the left and collecting ONE empty from there. It moves this to the centre road, uncouples, moves into the headshunt, back onto the incoming wagons, removes ONE from there and takes it back to the front left siding. It can then collect the empty from the middle road and place it onto the incoming road. By running around, the loco can then remove the other incoming wagon and place it on the top road out of the way, before running around and collecting an empty from the front right road, and depositing this alongside the previously moved empty. The loco can then collect the other full wagon deposited on the top road, and take it to the front right siding. After this, the engine can collect the brakevan from the top road, place it in the runaround, before backing the empties onto the brake and await departure. And any other variation depending on if you need to move other wagons out of the way, or access wagons on the top road. Should take quite a while! The track is PECO code 125BH, because I have 8 yards of it spare from my garden railway. I have found that my Jinty will go around 40" radius curves, much to my surprise! Construction is well underway as I want to get all the track down so I can take it indoors to work on over the winter. The layout sits on two folding keyboard stands. In case anyone is wondering what the distance between wagons looks like on 40" radius curves, here are two shots to show you. The three links and buffers still work, but I may go to autocouplers for this layout.Excuse the focus on this one! Edited December 30, 2022 by kes missing 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 My wife tolerates the railway at home but I don't think she would be too happy with it in the motor home as well. I am all for it but the wife no. Interesting project though, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Looking forward to seeing this one develop, there's plenty of operational scope and room for a bit of scenic work, the removable building route is fine, but I have found the storage of these takes up amost as much room as the layout! If you can work them into the boards it's probably best. Presumably you have to unfold it externally and thread it into the motorhome once flat, or is there room to swing it upright when inside? Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Looking forward to seeing this one develop, there's plenty of operational scope and room for a bit of scenic work, the removable building route is fine, but I have found the storage of these takes up amost as much room as the layout! If you can work them into the boards it's probably best. Presumably you have to unfold it externally and thread it into the motorhome once flat, or is there room to swing it upright when inside? Peter Hi Peter, I can place it folded on the cushions across the end of the motorhome, then unfold it and lift it onto the vertical side cushions. I will take a photo tomorrow. Kevin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Kevin Very interested in what you say about 40" radius ........ You might want to follow the link at the foot of my posting,mot have a look at my layout-in-the-making and my diatribe on the topic of how 0 gaugers have convinced themselves that they need huge-radius curves. You might want to try making "drop-link" couplers, as used by us coarse-scalers, by soldering three-links rigid. They still look fine, but can then be used to propel wagons with a guarantee of no buffer-locking. You might need to fit tiny "up-stands" to the hooks, to prevent them jumping out, but they can be almost invisible bits of fine wire. Kevin PS: fond memories of sawing-up a flush door to make a baseboard 30+ years ago. My reason then was extreme skint-ness, due to new flat, a new baby daughter, and new mortgage - and a door that came free! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted October 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2015 Arrrgghhh - I shouldn't have read this. I too have a motorhome which I use to move my OO layout in. But, I am building a O gauge shunter kit and was wondering about a layout to run it on. Now I know what to build next. Great project which I'll be watching with interest. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 This looks like fun. Our locos easily negotiate 36" radius curves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kazmierczak Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Didn't John Charman (of "Charford" fame), have the first version of his layout in a caravan? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 This is fascinating - I am allowed to take modelling kit with me on hols, but a layout, swmbo would not be amused LOL! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 The layout I started in mine was 28.08mm gauge, so not far short of 32mm, but 4mm scale! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Thanks for all the positive comments, my wife encourages me to build these things, as she says "she knows what I am doing and where I am". Maggie is also going to be operating my N gauge layout Mickleover at 2 exhibitions next year. I might yet persuade her to help with the buildings for the O gauge layout. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) So here are a few photos of the completed track layout, and stock "placed" to show what is possible.Y7 arrives with train, Runs around, Removes Brake Van, Puts Brake in rear siding Runs forward to headshunt. Removes wagons. Tower Jinty on 40" point Edited December 30, 2022 by kes missing 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) This is how it fits above the cab in the motorhome.There is plenty of room for the stock boxes, controller and any other bits and pieces. Edited December 30, 2022 by kes missing 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 If it were not for that strict length restriction, you could put a hole in the end scene of the layout and run an addition length of track to give you a little more shunting room. Still, it is an extremely good design! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 If it were not for that strict length restriction, you could put a hole in the end scene of the layout and run an addition length of track to give you a little more shunting room. Still, it is an extremely good design!He could do that anyway - just open the window!! O scale locos often can get around much tighter curves than people imagine - I've run a Heljan Hymek through 24" (yes, 2 foot) radius curves!!, but it's British 3-link & buffer couplings that really cause trouble and create the need for more generous radii; these short locos & wagons will be okay on 40" (or even 36" at a push) but longer stock will struggle with buffer locking problems. But then, longer stock wouldn't be used on a layout like this anyway... Nice project, will watch with interest. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 I believe that the Ixion Hudswell Clarke just manages 34" or so. Has anyone torture-tested a terrier? The wheelbase is only about another 4mm longer than the hudswell clarke. The 0-4-0 Manning Wardle, and the up-coming Peckett E class would not have a lot of trouble. Before I pulled apart it's chassis, my Tower Models Barclay easily managed 24" and could probably manage 18" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 He could do that anyway - just open the window!! O scale locos often can get around much tighter curves than people imagine - I've run a Heljan Hymek through 24" (yes, 2 foot) radius curves!!, but it's British 3-link & buffer couplings that really cause trouble and create the need for more generous radii; these short locos & wagons will be okay on 40" (or even 36" at a push) but longer stock will struggle with buffer locking problems. But then, longer stock wouldn't be used on a layout like this anyway... Nice project, will watch with interest. I never thought of that one - an OUTSIDE fiddle yard! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Kes Whilst you have managed to make it fit, and fold, I fear you are asking an awful lot of the upstands where your g-cramps are. I'd strongly suggest a pair of folding legs (or suspension chains!) to support the middle would be both stronger, and stiffer. Hope this helps Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 Kes Whilst you have managed to make it fit, and fold, I fear you are asking an awful lot of the upstands where your g-cramps are. I'd strongly suggest a pair of folding legs (or suspension chains!) to support the middle would be both stronger, and stiffer. Hope this helps Simon Thanks Simon, I may just make a central support for it. Kevin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 I have just taken delivery of some Dingham auto couplers and have been experimenting with fixed permanant magnets for uncoupling purposes. This should work on this layout, as every propelling movement of stock leads to a wagon being left in a siding. I will let you know how I get on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) I have now worked out how to automatically align the centre road of the sector plate without having to resort to sliding bolts or pins in holes. What I have done is as follows. The far left and right roads are aligned by screwed stops either side of the sector plate. The right hand stop has a pivoted square of ply attached to it. This is normally hinged up away, so the sector plate when moved lines up the the right hand track. When the sector plate is over to the left road, this square of ply can be hinged down, and is of the correct length so that when the sector plate is moved right to contact it, the centre road is aligned. I have also started on the bridge pillars. These are squares of thin ply, glued to 1/2" square rocket stick, cased in breakfast cereal/pizza box card. They will be clad in either stone or brick embossed plastikard. The bridge girders are made of 3 layers of pizza box glued together, with ribs of 2mm and 3mm slices of pizza box glued on, and a top and bottom flange of 7mm card glued on. Next I have to make the shorter girders, then I can build up the piers and add the cladding. I need to do all this so that when the layout is folded in half, I can see exactly where I CANNOT put buildings on the other board! Edited December 30, 2022 by kes missing 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Now why didn't I think of the sector plate stop when I built my Small, Broad and Totally Pointless while I was living in my motorhome . I think I could do something similar with the traverser on Cheapside Yard too, where I was planning to just align it by eye. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kes Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) I have now completed cladding the bridge piers in embossed brick plasticard, and added the support lintels for the girders from 2mm card. The second small bridge has been made to represent a structure bolted together from 2 cast iron panels. This also consists of 2mm card laminated together. The larger bridge girder represents a welded/rivetted structure, There are plastistrut "H" sections glued underneath to represent the stiffening members. I have also been experimenting with the location of the Permanant Magnets for the uncoupling. I think I have an acceptable compromise between uncoupling moments. Next to build the loading bays ensuring they do not foul the bridge when it is folded up. Edited December 30, 2022 by kes missing 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 I wish I'd thought of something like this ten years ago, when I was working on a pipeline job and living variously in a caravan and a small rented flat for five nights a week... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 He could do that anyway - just open the window!! O scale locos often can get around much tighter curves than people imagine - I've run a Heljan Hymek through 24" (yes, 2 foot) radius curves!!, but it's British 3-link & buffer couplings that really cause trouble and create the need for more generous radii; these short locos & wagons will be okay on 40" (or even 36" at a push) but longer stock will struggle with buffer locking problems. But then, longer stock wouldn't be used on a layout like this anyway... Nice project, will watch with interest. Hi F-Unit, The little Ixion Fowler will tackle some really tight curves - ideal for the new Peco track. As you say the issue is buffer lock with eg. bogie stock, which wont apply to a layout such as this. I believe that the Ixion Hudswell Clarke just manages 34" or so. Has anyone torture-tested a terrier? The wheelbase is only about another 4mm longer than the hudswell clarke. The 0-4-0 Manning Wardle, and the up-coming Peckett E class would not have a lot of trouble. Before I pulled apart it's chassis, my Tower Models Barclay easily managed 24" and could probably manage 18" As an 0-6-0 it will be interesting to see what the Terrier will do. ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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