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Dapol Class 22


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And indeed if the slides permit in due course I would be very likely to add D6333 (as others noted a popular and often-sen loco and one of the last in traffic) in its final blue fye plus maybe another of that batch in either green (syp or fye) or blue. They would complement the current order for one of each of the Kernow weathered editions.

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Received mine in the post yesterday.

 

What a lovely model; it is much nicer to see it in the flesh (or plastic).

 

For those unsure about the BR Blue livery used, I thought I would post some shots next to some other BR Blue locos.

 

It is on the greeny-blue side, but I don’t personally have too much of an issue with it. I think the yellow could do with having a bit more orange or cream in it. I wonder how much the yellow ends influence the ‘green’ look?

 

I can take some further pictures for blue comparison with Heljan stock if needed.

 

Regards

Tom

 

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post-3486-0-68499400-1328448343.jpg

 

post-3486-0-58610600-1328448350.jpg

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The Bachmann Warships colour and the finish is far superior to the Dapol in the above images. I do hope that Dapol dont use this 22 blue on their forthcoming diesel classes 52, 41, 29's. I guess that some people can live with it tho, but given the price being asked by Dapol my reaction was to put off purchase of a blue 22 until Dapol maybe rethink for future releases.

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Great thread guys, I've spent an entertaining couple of hours noting a few details down and reading some of your experiences so far.

 

I've always been a fan of the North Devon LSWR scene and the release of the class 22 'tipped the balance' in terms of me setting about a P4 layout based on the area. I 'googled' the 22/ rang Kernow in early December and simply bought their last two 2 green D6331 models 'off the shelf'. They arrived the next day and I'd rate them as superb. Ultrascale have provided virtually all of my P4 wheelsets over the years and I have always been pleased with their products, thus, the wheelsets from my locos were posted to them this week. Will advise on the outcome.

One of the 22s is likely to end up as 6327 in its shabby blue livery whilst the other will remain in green as one of the earlier withdrawals.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

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Dave,

 

2 problems I found on my model with the fitting of the valences. First problem is the fixed valencing from the ends that runs back to the cab steps is a touch too long, pushing against the upright of the steps and causes the sides of the body to buckle outwards. Take a bit off the valencing or the cab step upright, just enough so there is no longer any pressure against the upright, the body side will be flatter.

Second problem is the plastic framework of the chassis that the valencing attaches to. If you look along the side you may see it is buckled inwards in the middle - about where L3 & R3 attach. I solved this by removing the fuel tank molding and found there is a gap between the metal weight and the chassis frame that I was able to slip a couple of strips of styrene strip into to push the frame out. I think I used 40 thou. I then had to file flats onto the inside of the fuel pipes that run up from the fuel tank molding so that it would fit back over the slightly wider chassis frame.

The valencing is now a much better fit with no sign of it wanting to fall off.

 

Hope this helps,

Keith

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Re: Colour.

 

I seem to recall early BR Blue varying quite a lot but even later it seemed some batches faded differently than others too. 'Course I'm only talking of standing on platforms and watching a never ending parade of BR Blue - nothing scientific. To be honest I hated everything in BR Blue - it was so boring, I'm probably in the minority, though.

 

Best, Pete.

Edited by trisonic
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I seem to recall early BR Blue varying quite a lot but even later it seemed some batches faded differently than others too. 'Course I'm only talking of standing on platforms and watching a never ending parade of BR Blue - nothing scientific. To be honest I hated everything in BR Blue - it was so boring, I'm probably in the minority, though.

Best, Pete.

We must all have been hiding in the closet - I couldn't stand the BR Blue period and I think in many respects the dismal uniformity of a miserable colour cheaply applied reflected a phase of near hopelessness (in some respects) that the railway went through in the early '70s. So now we are three.

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It's obviously us enfants terribles who started linesiding in the mid-seventies, for whom Rail Blue was like a comfort-blanket. I loved the variety - and shabbiness - of the green survivors (TO's choppers, freight Brush, 40106 pre-celeb, and various shunters), but there was something challenging and awesome about the sheer vastness of those unbroken lists of numbers, like 37001 - 37308, all blue and with only headcode boxes to tell them apart!

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A TCS 1344 EU621 arrived in the post today. Just taken out the Bachamnn 21 pin decoder out of my class 22 and replaced it with this TCS one. Loco now works on DCC.

 

So it looks as if the Bachmann ones wont work in the Dapol loco. The Bachmann one does work when put into the ESU decoder tester.

 

Ian

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A TCS 1344 EU621 arrived in the post today. Just taken out the Bachamnn 21 pin decoder out of my class 22 and replaced it with this TCS one. Loco now works on DCC.

 

So it looks as if the Bachmann ones wont work in the Dapol loco. The Bachmann one does work when put into the ESU decoder tester.

 

Ian

 

Funny I have used a ""Hornby Sapphire"" in my one and it works fine.

 

Terry

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Hello Keith,and the rest of you guys,I spent a lot of time on these 'valances'. First up I thought about simply using 'tape' ( a plastic based auto masking tape,brilliant stuff!) and sticking it from one end of the chassis block to the other accross the tops of the 5 valances..it worked,held them in place,but I thought 'no',they will still come off!

So,I then decided just to simply have them 'one length', I used 'micro' strip on each join and superglued each one together ensuring it was dead straight. This was then put in place on the chassis block and I used the tape again,if it falls off this time, it'll be as one!!..I gave up on that idea, and simply just superglued the whole thing onto the chassis block!!. It's all straight ,there are no loose or wonky valances now!!

Lastly, as much as I tried,even filed the 'fixed' valances Keith as you said,I could not get the body to 'sit down' on the front corners,in othe words,I have that 'gap' If I 'fix' one, it pops up at the other end,it's like something inside the body is stopping it,maybe the cabs are not in properly,but as I said,they are glued in, but I will if necessary rip the things out and try that,it's just so frustrating!! Anybody else having this problem?? Dave

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A TCS 1344 EU621 arrived in the post today. Just taken out the Bachamnn 21 pin decoder out of my class 22 and replaced it with this TCS one. Loco now works on DCC.

 

So it looks as if the Bachmann ones wont work in the Dapol loco. The Bachmann one does work when put into the ESU decoder tester.

 

Ian

 

Hi Ian,

 

Glad you've got it going with the TCS decoder. Mine worked OK with the Bachmann decoder apart from one of the cab lights, so it's curious why it didn't work at all for you although I have heard of decoders that work perfectly with a decoder tester but just won't play in the models.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

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Keith

 

I will test the Bachmann one in a loco at some point but don't fancy taking apart some of my Bachmann ones that have already had a 21 pin fitted, so will wait to try it in a future one.

 

I am having an earlier release of the class 22 off a friend as he ended up wanting different numbered ones, so might see if it will work in that one, Otherwise it will get another TCS decoder.

 

Ian

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I have no intention of removing or fitting any valances in the future. So I've cut the locating lugs off the chassis, their only plastic and then glued the required valances for whichever model I'm doing, directly to the body with no problems.

Trevor, would you mind posting a photo showing how this looks, please, as this was exactly what I was thinking of doing. Thanks.

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Dave,

 

Your mention of the body not quite sitting down reminded me that I also filed an angle into the tops of the clips for holding a speaker in place. I had noticed there were recesses molded into the inside of the roof for these and wondered if they were deep enough so only as a matter of course, I took a bit off the outer edges of the clips. No idea if this really did anything to help.

 

Keith

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I was looking at these 4 'lugs' on the body Keith,maybe I'll just snip a wee bit off them,I'll try that before I rip the cabs out!! I've already snipped off the 4 locating lugs that might be for the speaker,this made no difference..######, but as I'm not fitting 'sound' or a chip for that matter,so it don't matter!!

I'm sure I'll get the thing right,but it is annoying,and the more I look at photos,the more I see that I don't like. I thought the 'screw' detail on the window frames was a nice touch,but I'm thinking they are too prominent and look like bolts!! I'm now looking at removing the bogie frames to find a way of closing the gap to the body.

There is also that bit (sorry don't really know what you'd call it)in the centre of the bogie underframe,probably a suspension part,anyway, I'm looking at a good photo and it's definately 'lower' than what it is on the model, that means if I get the bogie that wee bit 'closer' (to the body) this part will require to be cut off and 'lowered' so that it's slightly below the bogie detail and closer to the rail.

While I'm at it,I'll remove the fittings for the 4 springs (per bogie) and see if I can replace these with some 'heavier' springs that can be seen.Dapol have 'springs' fitted,but they are way too thin and cannot be noticed unless you have superman vision!!

If I'm successfull with these 'minor'(?) changes it'll require (as per my photo) the fuel tank painted in green and 'red'stripes' added to the axlebox covers (as per Timken without the 'yellow')

Summing up, I apologise for being so critical,but for me this is a 'normal thing',I'm always looking at detail, tearing a model apart is not unusual for me!!, there are always ways to improve on a model,I know model makers have to have some limitations,but for 124 quid I think I expected something better, not up to 'Hornby/Backmann' standards' (yet), and at only 25 pounds 'cheaper' than my NRM DELTIC, I do not think it represents good value for money,it should've been (in my mind)more like in the 80-90 pound mark,sorry Dapol, but it's still not going to stop me getting one of the new 'Warship' (D600) class,it can only get better, unfortunately, not 'cheaper!'......Dave

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Well I finished the painting off on my Class 22 yesterday but I've only managed to number and do the transfers on one side so far.

 

All the rivets on the windscreen surrounds and side windows have been removed, the boiler exhaust modified then a repaint in Railmatch blue and yellow. The numbers and BR signs are Pressfix and the warning flashes are Fox (I've run out of Pressfix ones). The headcode numbers were from the Heljan Class 52. I'll get the other side's transfers finished tomorrow and then there'll be a bit of weathering.

 

I think the repaint alone does wonders:

 

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Edited by Flood
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One of mine suffered from the body sitting higher after the valences where fitted, the other one was fine, it was only a fraction but it did annoy me. Looking at it the body it was sitting hard on the valences.

The side frames are glued onto the chassis block it would appear that some are fitted fractional too high.

Gently prising under the frames to break the bond luckily the paint bond to the chassis block is not so good as the glue. I removed the frames and glued the valences to the frames using a vice to press the valences over the pegs to make sure they where sitting flush.

Refitting the frames loose and then the body so as to put the frames in the correct position my intention was to run some super under the frames to hold them but the body and the fuel tank hold them quite securely.

Dscf1339640.jpg

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