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Dapol Class 22


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I was a bit supprised at the editorial comment at the beginning. I wouldn't describe a 22 as a hugely unsucessfull waste of money. That just regurgitating poxey rubbish from the 70s. Class 16s yes, 22s no. If they were so bad how did they manage to have an availability of 86% in the mid 60s?

Other than that its a cracking magazine, some good photos I've not seen before. Carn't wait for the hardback book. It will be interesting to see if the D6331 myth contines in that.

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Just been thinknig re the issue I have with this loco on DCC... can someone who has another class 22 that is working OK on DCC have a look to see if the pre cut 22nd pin on the circuit board is the same on on theirs - I jsut got a feeling that the decoder plgs in the wrong way round but its just a hunch at the moment.

 

Ian

 

It looks like you've got it plugged correctly which I think is upside down compared with the Bachmann instructions, but you need a 4 function decoder to get both the cab lights to work. I used the Bachmann 21 Pin decoder to start with and the motor, directional lighting and one cab light worked. I changed to the TCS EU621 in both my Class 22s and it works well. If it doesn't work at all on DCC (no motor or lights) and you're sure the decoder is working then it may be a bad connection. It's certainly pin 11 that should be missing. Worth trying a different decoder. Good luck. Keith

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Keith

 

Ok thanks for your reply. Iwill swap this decoder with one out of something else to see if it makes any differnece. I only have Bachamnn 21 pin ones but if swapping them gets the loco working I will then go and buy a 4 fuction one.

 

Ian

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Yes me too! some super piccies - but perpetuates the error that 6331 was in store from 69 to 71

 

Kind regards

 

Phil

 

It does say in the Class 22 Booklet that more research is required, so hopefully it will be sorted in the Hard Back Book.

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For those who might be interested in conversion for EM and P4

 

Just got mine yesterday and what a lovely little thing it is. A very smooth runner and goes very well in 'snail mode'

 

I've pulled the bogie keeper plate off and removed a wheelset (to check 'P4ability'). They have to be 'popped out' as the brass bearings are retained as a push fit in the frames.

 

The wheels are 'meaty enough' for a turning down solution. There is sufficent length on the half axles that to fit back into the gear muff when pulled out for re-gauging. Some Loctite would probably do the trick for certainty. Also what may or may not be needed could be a few 2mm washers to go between the back of the wheelset and the outside edge of the brass bearing as it is a sliding fit on the axle..

 

The removal of the bogie keeper plate took a bit of figuring out, but does come away by carefully pushing in with a small screwdriver at the front where there is a split in the main bogie moulding.

 

All in all a nicely engineered item. Well done Dapol Dave, you haven't disappointed!

 

 

file.php?id=4189&t=1

 

file.php?id=4190&t=1

 

file.php?id=4191&t=1

 

file.php?id=4192&t=1

 

file.php?id=4193&t=1

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A useful set of photos, John. This thread is now getting so long that I wonder whether you've missed some of the earlier discussions about the wheels and re-gauging? I gather that some folk have successfully stretched the wheels out to EM, perhaps with some trimming of plastic, but I don't yet know whether anyone has tried P4. There's been the ongoing story of whether Ultrascale would go for it and Dave did investigate whether Dapol could get their Chinese partners to produce wheel sets. I've suggested turning down the wheels to take, say, a Gibson tyre. I still favour this approach if only because I don't have any experience with form tools or their production. Mind you, I haven't tried it yet, in part because I don't know whether it will be possible to get spare wheels from Dapol if I make a mess of it.

 

Nick

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For those who might be interested in conversion for EM and P4

 

Good evening -

if your converting it to P4, I assume it wont be running on particularly sharp curves - so have you considered moving the bogie sideframes up to line up with the wheels correctly - while the model is apart? Two quick cuts with a razor saw per bogie - and re-attach with a little block of plasticard. It makes the stance of the model look miles better - and would look even better with closer to scale wheels.

 

tfn

 

Jon

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Mine has a pickup issue on one bogie. Its only picking up on one wheel. I did have a look to see if I could get the keeper plate off, but it seems the plastic is very easily marked from my screwdriver and I'm loathed to do any damage. Having seen those pictures in post 960 I'll have another try.

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One amusing thing I did notice running it was with the lights off and the loco going a fair speed you could see light shining through the front vents making them look like mini marker lights! Has anybody managed to get the cab out? I did gently try to get mine out but a horrid cracking noise put me off. Jim

 

Painted over those they looked blanked off in the pics I've seen!

 

I've also taken the cab out, it's very well glued in! Just go careful when you do but it does come out with encouragment...

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Good evening -

if your converting it to P4, I assume it wont be running on particularly sharp curves - so have you considered moving the bogie sideframes up to line up with the wheels correctly - while the model is apart? Two quick cuts with a razor saw per bogie - and re-attach with a little block of plasticard. It makes the stance of the model look miles better - and would look even better with closer to scale wheels.

 

tfn

 

Jon

 

Thanks for the tip Jon.

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Hi Keith,

 

dont forget that sourcing another speaker is easy as its mentioned in the instructions.

 

If a locsound 4 is used then the 4ohm speaker from DCC Supplies (serial /product number in the class 22 instructions) will give you a nice beefy sound as it has its own sealed enclosure and bass aperture, clips straight in but does need 2 wires soldering.

 

The sound benefits might outweigh the soldering negatives.

 

Also worth noting is that this same speaker is designed to fit the class 22 as well.

 

cheers

Dave

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HI

Has anyone come across any photo of the class 22 with the skirts on, just can not find any,and when did the skirts get removed?

Darren

 

There's plenty of shots with the skirts on, here's fully skirted:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24041160@N02/6652110623/in/faves-45603744@N06/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/curly42/5596077402/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/curly42/5596077406/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/curly42/5367941510/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/curly42/5727144676/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/curly42/5596077406/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/curly42/5410073393/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/2728616506/

 

And missing a section or two:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/johngreyturner/3923618684/in/set-72157622720375618

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59835095@N02/6260767746/

 

I suspect you are looking at locos with skirts on, and thinking they are off?

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