brian daniels Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 In fairness there is not a lot in it. I should be able to build the next ones quicker as I now know what's involved! It was good as well that Slaters, C&L and CCT (transfers) all sent bits by return of post, so a big thanks to them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 (edited) Hi Brian, Love what you are doing, fantastic detailed work - makes me want to go and buy that 'Resistance Soldering' unit, I mentioned (that might, then, enable me to do a neat job of that type of work!)! Like you I have fond memories of the Triang model and the shunters gig....fish van too.... BTW, do you ever find that, even with etching/gunblue, primer and paint, that those hoses (springs) always seem to want to shed their paint? Am I correct in thinking that 'Mousa Models' is Bill Bedford's new company? If so how does one contact him, I sent emails and left messages upon their site, yet no replies (an couple of months back) - v'strange. Keep up the good work. Kind regards, CME Edited May 18, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 (edited) Mind you with the containers on the weight will make it sit right down again but at least there is a spring pushing the wheels into any track defects now. For an overall 200g, Brian, try a 17 or 18 thou guitar string, which should give approx 1mm deflection. (That assumes you don't leave the spring contiguous between the axle spans.) Edited May 18, 2013 by Miss Prism 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 For an overall 200g, Brian, try a 17 or 18 thou guitar string, which should give approx 1mm deflection. (That assumes you don't leave the spring contiguous between the axle spans.) Hi, I was going to mention such too - do you know how, a 17 or 20 thou guitar string relates to eg. a '9-42' set? ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium keefer Posted May 18, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 18, 2013 '9-42' refers to the thicknesses in thou as well, from the thinnest to thickest in a set of strings the set could be something like 9, 11, 16, 24, 32, 42 ie 9thou or 0.009" etc. you can usually get up to a 20 or 22thou plain string (i.e. single wire), but anything above is usually a wound string (i.e. wire wrapped around a central core - looks like a vacuum pipe!) if you go into a music shop, you can usually buy strings individually, just ask for a plain '17' or a '20' 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Hi, Thanks for clarifying - as it needed it for those who dont understand guitars etc. ATVB CME 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium keefer Posted May 18, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 18, 2013 no problem CME - it's also worth noting one guitar string can go a long way as they're about 36" long. have also heard of them being used for cable/conduit runs that need to be straight between support points - their springy nature means they won't kink unless you put a deliberate bend in them 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
90164 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Brian, Great work on the Conflat L. I've a couple of them to do but am waiting for the containers to be released. Do you have an idea when they will be ready? CME, Mousa Models are at; http://www.mousa.biz/ Regards Frank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 Hi Frank, glad to here someone else has some of these as we need to buy these kits if manufacturers are going to produce them. All I know about the containers is that they are to follow, soon I hope. On Franks link to Mousa Models above you can download the instructions if you want to see how they go together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 After this fold up the floor with the bufferbeams and attach the inside frames. The instructions show the inner frames with the U faceing inwards but all my previous kits has the U facing outwards to match the outer solebars so I put these on the same as the outer solebars facing outwards. Brian - I think you might find that these central solebars do in fact face inwards as they are probably the same as on the BR built 16 ton Minerals, which I discovered when researching our own recently released 16 Tonner kits. This whole UF layout is very different from the LMS pattern, where these do face outwards. There is probably the same short longitudinal channel section running parallel to the solebars inboard of the buffers at each corner of the UF + a cross-beam between the main solebar and each of the inner ones - and against which, the buffers are sprung as per our 16 tonners. It seems to be an error on most kits & RTR and I must admit it would have probably caught me out but for the mass of ref. material we had to hand, as it seems illogical! Regards, David Parkins, Modern Motive Power www.djparkins.com 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 (edited) This collection of photos http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/wagondetailspoetc shows a few open frames on various wagons. Having the inner longitudinals facing the opposite way to the solebar appears to be quite common on BR wagons for example http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/wagondetailspoetc/e1fc098fa As this 42ft. frame is remarkably standardised it would be interesting to know if this follows the LNER wagon frame, that these are based on. I agree that the LMS had the inner longitudinals similar to the solebar - it can be seen on the photos I recently posted of the LMS tube at the NRM. I don't agree it is illogical, it gives a plain face for attaching the mountings for vacuum cylinders, queen posts (as http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/wagondetailspoetc/e4dbcffa6) Apologies a little OT As to Conflat L, there are a number at heritage sites http://www.ws.vintagecarriagestrust.org/ws/wresults.asp None of my photos show this detail unfortunately. Paul Bartlett Edited May 19, 2013 by hmrspaul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 This collection of photos http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/wagondetailspoetc shows a few open frames on various wagons. Having the inner longitudinals facing the opposite way to the solebar appears to be quite common on BR wagons for example http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/wagondetailspoetc/e1fc098fa As this 42ft. frame is remarkably standardised it would be interesting to know if this follows the LNER wagon frame, that these are based on. I agree that the LMS had the inner longitudinals similar to the solebar - it can be seen on the photos I recently posted of the LMS tube at the NRM. I don't agree it is illogical, it gives a plain face for attaching the mountings for vacuum cylinders, queen posts (as http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/wagondetailspoetc/e4dbcffa6) Apologies a little OT Paul Bartlett Paul - Let me correct myself then - I do agree with you that it is not illogical - I perhaps used the wrong word. What I mean't was that they are not the way around that one might expect them to be, as Brian has already said - since it is so often the case that the channel faces outwards on other wagons. Regards, David Parkins 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 (edited) Brian, Great work on the Conflat L. I've a couple of them to do but am waiting for the containers to be released. Do you have an idea when they will be ready? CME, Mousa Models are at; http://www.mousa.biz/ Regards Frank Hi Frank/Brian, Thanks for the Link, that is the same company I left a messege for, a while back, asking if they produced certain LMS parts....yet they never got back to me, so it goes both ways, if they want to develop and sell stuff, then a quick note back to potential customers may help their cause - effective communications are key when selling (I would have thought). It appears that they have taken over and are re-deloping ex Bill Bedford parts and adding new - 3D - products to the/their range also(?) ATVB CME Edited May 19, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Looks like I haven't done anything for ages. Well I have been on holiday for a couple of weeks and a couple of weeks at work where you just could not do anything else in the day apart from eat and sleep. I have also been painting the odd Heljan project. But I have also built a JLTRT Presflo and a vac braked tank. The tank looks very nice but I have a doubt in my mind as to the brake gear underneath. Did these have 2 vac cylinders as Paul Bartlett has a lovely picture of a vac chassis with two http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/wagondetailspoetc/h4DBCFFA6#h5343b2b2 Anyway the kit came with a little vac cylinder from their van kits that just looked far to small, so I replaced it with a spare one fron their coach kits that I had which looks a lot better. Also made another Presflo as I want one with a Rugby Cement logo on. I have made the logo board out of plasticard but it is a bit warped so I will make a couple out of brass instead. On my 5 earlier Presflo kits all the pipes underneath were in whitemetal but this kit had it all in lost wax. There is not a lot of room for the brake rodding around the front and back of the wheels! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Very nice Brian. Any updates on the ConFlat? Would like to see it painted. Incidentally, you have a pic or link in your signature that has become unlinked and takes an age to update the page. Any way you could relink it or remove it? Cheers, Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Thanks for the heads up on the picture at the bottom of the page Steve. I did wonder what had happened to the picture but sometimes things on these computers goes right over my head. I think it's sorted now? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimbus Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 IMG_2360.jpg The etched brake gear was folded up and attached nicely in line with the wheel treads. The vac cylinder was glued underneath to the left of the round etched tab because if you put it there the brakes will be taken off, not on! I also added a piece of thick round wire from vac pipe to vac pipe along the inner frame and added a small piece of wire to the vac cylinder. IMG_2375.jpg I think Bill got this right. The vacuum sucks the piston upwards to pull the brakes off. Destroying the vacuum allows the piston to fall under gravity to apply the brakes. A fail-safe principle. Hope I haven't noticed this too late for you to put it right! The Nim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 (edited) Glad you are looking at the inner workings of the wagons! but I have added some arrows to show that when the brake arm goes up into the vac cylinder it rotates the cross shaft rod clockwise thereby pushing the brakes on. If the brake cylinder was on the opposite side of the cross shaft it would pull the brakes off. I think you have the inner workings of a vac cylinder wrong Nimbus. Edited June 27, 2013 by brian daniels 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimbus Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I think you have the inner workings of a vac cylinder wrong Nimbus. Oh - Ball-valves! Sorry. Rewind, rewind. The Nim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 That's ok Nimbus so long as you are clear on it know that's all that matters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 (edited) Hello Brian, all, these may help a bit to understand the workings of the vac. brake. OzzyO. PS. this was not aimed at Brian, just in case anyone thinks it was. Edited June 28, 2013 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 (edited) I think Bill got this right. The vacuum sucks the piston upwards to pull the brakes off. Destroying the vacuum allows the piston to fall under gravity to apply the brakes. A fail-safe principle. Hope I haven't noticed this too late for you to put it right! The Nim. I think Brian is being rather modest here, as Brian has been a train driver for as long as I remember. So I should think his knowledge of the different brake systems and there operating sequences are second nature. ATB, Martyn. Edited June 28, 2013 by 3 link Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 It's always nice to have a reminder of how things work Martyn. That's a nice diagram Ozzyo, thanks for posting it as I am sure it will help others get to grips with the inner workings of the brakes. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 I have just put a Howes sound chip in my Thumper and gave it a run on a friends layout that he's still building. I fitted a 4mm chip as it's only running a Machima 1833. It has a QSI 32mm 8ohm speaker fitted but one little problem is that it is at full volume and the noise of the train running is tending to overpower the engine sound. I doubt it will be very load in a large hall or outside. So I will get the volume sorted out but overall I think it sounds brilliant. So if you want all your Bachman 4mm Thumper's sounding better I don't think you could go wrong with this chip. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Sounds OK to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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