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Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....


Physicsman
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I've finally got round to putting a touch of paint onto the bridges - well, part of the branch bridge....

 

As my working "model" I've used this picture from Garsdale, taken earlier this year by Simon (Kingmoorkid):

 

post-13778-0-68144800-1369760444.jpg

 

I haven't got any greens in my paint kit, but I'll add the algae/mould effect with scatter when I fit the bridge in.

 

Here is my attempt at a grotted-up, 100 year old bridge fascia:

 

post-13778-0-82866100-1369760562_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-33460900-1369760570_thumb.jpg

 

The brick arch liner is suitably filthy with years of soot:

 

post-13778-0-11976100-1369760650_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-41861100-1369760656_thumb.jpg

 

Jeff

 

 

 

 

 

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I've finally got round to putting a touch of paint onto the bridges - well, part of the branch bridge....

 

As my working "model" I've used this picture from Garsdale, taken earlier this year by Simon (Kingmoorkid):

 

attachicon.gifpost-17870-0-25363100-1366230774_thumb.jpg

 

I haven't got any greens in my paint kit, but I'll add the algae/mould effect with scatter when I fit the bridge in.

 

Here is my attempt at a grotted-up, 100 year old bridge fascia:

 

attachicon.gif100_3376.JPG

 

attachicon.gif100_3377.JPG

 

The brick arch liner is suitably filthy with years of soot:

 

attachicon.gif100_3375.JPG

 

attachicon.gif100_3374.JPG

 

Jeff

 

 

Jeff

 

Great start with the weathering - this aqueducty/bridgey thing is really very good and it's going to look great when in situ.  Small point of correction it was Gargrave not Garsdale. 

 

Think that green slime finish in the shady parts will be hard to reproduce convincingly anyway....

 

 

Simon (KK)

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Cheers Simon,

 

Do you know - I ALWAYS get that the wrong way round - why do I think Garsdale? And I even checked - and still wrote the wrong thing!!

 

Jeff

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Cheers Simon,

 

Do you know - I ALWAYS get that the wrong way round - why do I think Garsdale? And I even checked - and still wrote the wrong thing!!

 

Jeff

That's your age, hhahahaaaaa

 

Dodgy Bio bodgit

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Jeff, I have to say that for someone who professes not to do weathering, I have taken my first lesson from YOU SIR. The way you have copied the original is a credit to you and once in place should look the Dogs Do Dahas.

 

Bodgit

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That's your age, hhahahaaaaa

 

Dodgy Bio bodgit

 

Unfortunately, I think you are spot on, Andy! I specifically checked the Index before posting - and still got it wrong!

 

Thanks for the approval on the bridge. I'll do the main bridge tomorrow - should only take a couple of hours....

 

Jeff

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Jeff, I have to say that for someone who professes not to do weathering, I have taken my first lesson from YOU SIR. The way you have copied the original is a credit to you and once in place should look the Dogs Do Dahas.

 

Bodgit

 

The only thing I didn't use was green - and I relied on the brown in the plastikard to achieve those tones. I always worry about the weathering being too dark, but a century of exposure to the elements and all the crap from the locos would have had a severe effect!!

 

Btw, I've sorted out some locos to be weathered - professionally, not me. I've sent a 9F for a bit of "heavy" weathering, so that should be interesting.

 

Dogs do-dahs indeed!!  :jester:  :jester:

 

Jeff

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Jeff,

 

The bridge looks great and definitely captures the feel and look of the prototype! 

 

A couple of suggestions if I may though.  The Slaters 7mm stone sheet includes a few double height stones and I think these are unusual in reality (they would have weighed somewhat) and are not on the prototype as far as I can tell.  It is not too difficult to miss them out (see my Highland Miscellany thread).  Also, I would recommend that you use black plasticard for civils works - if it does scratch the black does not stand out quite like white?

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Hi Rob.

 

After that revelation we'll have to call you "Spike"!!

 

The 2 Brits and Black 5 I bought from TMC were medium weathered - and I'm very pleased with them. Quite tempted to send them another Black 5 to which they can apply the "heavy" treatment.

 

I do like the Patriot locos. They always seem to be a "chunkier" relative of the Jubilee - maybe it's the smoke deflectors that give that effect. But you had better be careful - you'll soon be forsaking your beloved Southern engines for the LMS!!  :O  :O

 

Jeff

 

So long as we leave the GWR out.   Their insidious Swindon influence via Stanier was surely sufficient. They never did understand how to make heat from poor coal, nor the subtle and entertaining engineering politics and prejudice which allowed the LNER and LMS to make so many egregious errors.  Like self-cleaning smokeboxes,  not enough superheat, and too-large blastpipes, or shed staff who baulked at getting underneath on a freezing morning. 

 

For instance, anybody with half a brain would guess that getting exhaust gas out of a chimney via a blastpipe requires sufficient gas-speed, and what works for a two-cylinder with four exhaust 'charges' per cycle would not necessarily work for a three cylinder with six smaller charges.  It's like exhaust on a car, bigger is not always better. Jubilees and Patriots used to 'roar' when working at speed, magnificent.

 

Both the Patriots and Jubs are flavour of the month for me because two more arrived yesterday and I haven't had time to open them... and there are two weathered Black 5s are also waiting. The latter like 8Fs are too common for my tastes, but a pair of them full out on a grade has appeal.

 

My beloved Merchant Navy is still in the mail from the UK, so I guess just to pass the time I'll photograph something...

 

Sun out now after a cold night.

 

edit, the bridge looks superb!

Edited by robmcg
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Hi Jeff, that weathered bridge looks the bee's knees and no doubt will look great once it is bedded into position. There's been quite a bit of discussion regarding Slaters vs Wills stone sheets (on Larry's (Coachman) Greenfield thread), but looking at the photo and your model, Slaters looks the real deal. I suppose it all depends on what your prototype is, but I find Wills very difficult to work with and the sheets are far too small.

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Jeff,

 

The bridge looks great and definitely captures the feel and look of the prototype! 

 

A couple of suggestions if I may though.  The Slaters 7mm stone sheet includes a few double height stones and I think these are unusual in reality (they would have weighed somewhat) and are not on the prototype as far as I can tell.  It is not too difficult to miss them out (see my Highland Miscellany thread).  Also, I would recommend that you use black plasticard for civils works - if it does scratch the black does not stand out quite like white?

 

Hi Mark.

 

Thanks for the advice on the Slaters. You are quite right about the double height stones - I've become almost "immune" to using the stuff and stopped noticing them. To be honest, they are a pain - and I'll make an attempt to avoid them in future!

 

Now this shows my lack of knowledge - I wasn't aware of black plastikard. That could be very useful in future. Cheers!

 

Jeff

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Hi Jeff, that weathered bridge looks the bee's knees and no doubt will look great once it is bedded into position. There's been quite a bit of discussion regarding Slaters vs Wills stone sheets (on Larry's (Coachman) Greenfield thread), but looking at the photo and your model, Slaters looks the real deal. I suppose it all depends on what your prototype is, but I find Wills very difficult to work with and the sheets are far too small.

 

The paint job on the bridge looks great Jeff looks it age.

Don

 

Thanks lads. I'm never convinced about whether something like that looks ok or not - I always worry I've made it too dark. I will be painting the main line bridge later today, so I'll post pics of that - hopefully I'll get it to come out looking a comparable match for its little brother!

 

Jeff

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Your painting and weathering has really brought the bridge to life Jeff; looking forward to seeing it when you have added the vegetation to it (lichen, etc) and a couple of slimy water runs.

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Your painting and weathering has really brought the bridge to life Jeff; looking forward to seeing it when you have added the vegetation to it (lichen, etc) and a couple of slimy water runs.

 

Thanks Jason. Your endorsement convinces me that it looks half decent!

 

Rest assured, once it's in place there'll be some "green stuff" growing in various places...

 

Btw, what colour would you recommend for a water run - I'd expect dirty white/pale grey - with a touch of green for the algal slime?

 

Jeff

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This is a limestone built bridge (at Sandside - where else :)), not seen a train under it for 40 years so it's obviously a bit cleaner now but it does show the kind of slimy green colouration to good effect. If anything, it is more different shades of green than white (no limescale), with only a couple of small areas being noticeably wet (gloss varnish to represent, in thin downward brush strokes?).

 

I presume that in the days of  4F's and the like running underneath it hauling lengthy coke trains, the algae itself would have had a bit of a soot coating?

 

Limestonebuiltbridge_zpsc99defef.jpg

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Thanks for the photo, Jason. I'll get myself a bottle of green acrylic, take a sample and dilute it heavily. Then dip a brush into it and let it dribble over the stonework to create the flowing slime effect.

 

The main bridge has had its grey base coat and black grime coat. Waiting for the paint to dry before I apply the top white "wash" and rub the whole surface over.

 

Photos later.

 

Jeff

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Enclosed pics of main line bridge.

 

It's a very dull day here today, so apologies if the lighting isn't great. I prefer photos by natural light, so I'll take more when the sun shines!

 

post-13778-0-35430900-1369839414_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-63109200-1369839421_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-88552400-1369839427_thumb.jpg

 

Jeff

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At risk of boring the pants off you - you could be forgiven for thinking "oh, no - not more bl**dy bridges!!", here are the bridges sat in position.

 

I've had to rip out the bit of hillside between the two, in order to accommodate the splay of the wing walls - a good thing, actually, as I can now build it better and it'll be easier to fit in.

 

post-13778-0-18053100-1369854850_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-70616700-1369854856_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-59302500-1369854863_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-03142300-1369855320_thumb.jpg

 

The lighting is much better and shows off the details on the fascias.

 

Jeff

Edited by Physicsman
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And just to rub salt in the wounds....a couple of "in the portal" shots - a little out of focus, but not too bad.

 

post-13778-0-04133800-1369855193_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-58107900-1369855200_thumb.jpg

 

Now I know where the bridges are going, I can start building up the cutting walls with my rock faces.

 

Jeff

 

 

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The 'heavy' construction of your two bridges looks rather good. The Slaters 7mm stone does look very efective in some locations. I recall Eastwood Town made effective use of it for cutting walls. It simply looked like 7mm stonework on Greenfield and I wish Slaters would invest in doing this stone in 4mm scale, something I've mentioned before.

Edited by coachmann
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The 'heavy' construction of your two bridges looks rather good. The Slaters 7mm stone does look very efective in some locations. I recall Eastwood Town made effective use of it for cutting walls. It simply looked like 7mm stonework on Greenfield and I wish Slaters would invest in doing this stone in 4mm scale, something I've mentioned before.

 

I totally agree with you Larry. I used the same "dressed stone" on the viaducts. With largish scale structures the 7mm blocks are appropriate. However, I'll have to use something else when I come to the station buildings as the 7mm scale would be too coarse.

 

Yes, I agree it would be good if Slaters would produce an equivalent in 4mm. Can't see it happening, though!!

 

Jeff

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