Jump to content
 

stevejjjexcov

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    409

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by stevejjjexcov

  1. stevejjjexcov
    Hi Corbs I didn't look at posting dates got so into the thread. It's a shame he hasn't been on. A tallented Modeller .Steve
  2. stevejjjexcov
    Hi Peter sorry I wasn't more help. I do have a few more sources to look at,if I find anything I will let you know.
  3. stevejjjexcov
    Another thought I had was stops for the tank filler lid but the holes would be out of position
  4. stevejjjexcov
    Hi Peter I have just looked through messers essery and jenkinsons midland locomotives vols 1and 3. I can't find a definite answer. So I am thinking fire iron supports ( but why both sides) or some kind of tank strap as on the "jinty" The only engines that have tank vents in that position are those fitted with condensing apparatus. Maybe another gent more learned than me will be able to help more. Glad to see you got rid of the dent without to much trouble. All the best. Steve
  5. stevejjjexcov
    Simon just read through your thread and I have to say I'm impressed with your rate and and skill of modeling. Congratulations and keep going. All the best Steve
  6. stevejjjexcov
    You could try car body filler!!! Hat coat ,.......gone
  7. stevejjjexcov
    Scratch building locos by guy Williams is a good book to get if you can full of useful information. Steve
  8. stevejjjexcov
    Camping mats used for sleeping on are made of hard wearing foam. They come in various thicknesses and colours and there is a lot of it. Recommended by Mr Rice in one of his books. It might be worth lookind into All the best. Steve
  9. stevejjjexcov
    Slip of plasticard seems OK to me why give yourself all that work. Keep it simple say I Been following the build it looks great All the best Steve
  10. stevejjjexcov
    Hi the pivoted sub chassis you describe is it the same as Mallard chassis system? I have one of their bulldogs to build but no instructions. It seems to have a sub chassis but I have real idea how it works on my model All the best stebe
  11. stevejjjexcov
    Hi daddyman I don't know if you have thought about trying to get hold of a pair of old Hamblins or Romford wheels. If memory serves they both did 6'6" drivers. Do markits do them? The profile is different to Gibson but they can be turned on a lathe to improve them. Maybe a kind soul on here can help? All the best steve
  12. stevejjjexcov
    Hi i've a half finished model of tatasall station. When I started it I got in touch with British rail archives and they provided copies of original drawings. Might be worth contacting them to see what they have Regards steve P.s.the nice gent who runs the art gallery at tatasll wouldn't let me take any measurements so a lot of guess work and brick counting from photographs went on
  13. stevejjjexcov
    Hi Hendi when spraying with enamels I leave well alone for at LEAST 72 hours and like KalKat use superfine wet and dry to flat back. Even with cellulose and plasticote I will leave for 48 hours, impatients leads to disappointment and lots of bad language (or so I'm told) All the best and I will follow the thread with interest great work thus far. Steve
  14. stevejjjexcov
    Hi all, I've built a few jidenco wagon kits and find that with patience and care they finish up looking o.k. With stock like the bloater I solder a piece of brass wire allong the top edge pre bending I found it helps stop distortion All the best Steve
  15. stevejjjexcov
    I was told years ago that one of the collieries in Coventry had an ex GWR 15xx pannier tank. I have no idea how true this is or what happened to it. All the best Steve
  16. stevejjjexcov
    The Coventry Model Railway Club has a layout that is D&E. If you google their site there are galleries of all their layouts All the best steve
  17. stevejjjexcov
    No cream cakes here either....... However I found an egg custard in the fridge. The aforesaid delicacy will be consumed with a bottle of bass no1. Delightful. All the best A.L.Eman
  18. stevejjjexcov
    Not been on for a while. Just to say how impressed I am with the dedication and skill you show. I will try and keep up with your progress now I'm back. I had trouble with both enamel and acrylic paint when I sprayed on top of alclad primer and never found an answer, just stopped using alcad primer except for their metalics Look forward to seeing progress all the best Steve
  19. stevejjjexcov
    I have seen the lms soc page and am wondering why the changes? It seems that it will be Inkerman Street in name only. Does anybody else think the same or am I just stuck in the past?
  20. stevejjjexcov
    Off foleshill of stoney Stanton road both good names on their own. My only layout was called short by cos it only six feet long including fiddle yard
  21. stevejjjexcov
  22. stevejjjexcov
    Remember Rule 1 do with it what you will. With a bit of extra work the old Jamison kits build well. If you add modern extra bits you will end up with a good loco. All the best Steve
  23. stevejjjexcov
    White primer for white wagons, no top coat. Transfers then weather works for me!!
  24. stevejjjexcov
    I agree with Bossard when soldering anything brass nickel or white metal cleanliness is next to godliness. D5541 if you end up with a blob of solder either the work pieces are not clean, there is not enough heat from the iron or not enough flux to allow the solder to flow. Good luck and keep trying Steve P.S I forgot to say don't rely solely on the flux in cored solder.
  25. stevejjjexcov
    Would love to help but unfortunately I am in wales. I hope you find someone to help. But what I will suggest is you get some scrap brass,solder and flux and give it a go. I use a 40w antex iron, liquid and paste flux, and tin lead solder. Seems to work ok for me. As they say practice makes perfect!! Good luck Steve
×
×
  • Create New...