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Pete Harvey

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Everything posted by Pete Harvey

  1. Nice progress with it all. You will be removing the Screws holding down the track at some point? Pete
  2. Dave For a little security it may be a good idea to fix a couple of strips of foam on the back wall as a sort of buffer to protect the models as they are driven in to the shed? Very nice simple construction and looks the part. Pete
  3. Here are some pictures of an engine I had printed in FUD for a customer he asked me to prime it for him as well. Pre Washing: After a Wash in an Ultrasonic Bath very Warm Water with a couple of drops of Lanolin Free Soap: And finally after a couple of coats of Acid Etch Primer: Now all the customer has to do if give it a coat of Sulzer Duck Egg Blue and it's ready for some weathering. Pete
  4. What you have done is exactly why I designed the model engines. Thank you
  5. Jim If you add another siding next to the bay head shunt you could still shunt while the bay is occupied. Just a thought. Pete
  6. Hi Jim What are the moves needed to get through Hatton then if you can explain please? Pete
  7. Ali Halford plastic bumper etching primer works on Brass or plastic.
  8. Look in Latest Updates http://www.southernregionmodels.co.uk/2014/07/508-313-etc-masters-first-pictures/
  9. Have we not already said all this a few days ago? I hope they will not be selling them under the DC Kit name at Warley as Charlie's reputation will go through the floor if the model quality is not improved.
  10. The vehicle type are of the now defunked Saxon Armored Car that was scraped in the late 90's mid 00's they are nice models but Brian needs to warm the tyres to give them the Sag effect.
  11. Hi Tim "I've not loctited the 10BA crankpins in place yet" Don't use loctite as the only way to remove them if you have to would be to over heat the loctite to release it's hold use some paint as it will do the same job but you won't have to destroy you model to remove the parts. Pete
  12. The wagon looks good I'm glad the info was helpful. Pete
  13. I have found with FUD & FED fairly warm water and old tooth brush and a few drops of Lanolin Free Detergent that is most important it must be Lanolin Free and then leave the parts to dry then prime with acid etch primer and leave to dry for 24hrs before touching the parts I have never had any problems with paint adhering with either material. I hope this helps? Pete
  14. Gary That looks great and much better than the model made previously buy another modeller.
  15. You need a rolling road Simon. Very nice build. Pete
  16. Did anyone ask about the Fire Escape Chaz?
  17. Regardless of the opposition announcement I think the real question is do you want something that will be a credible accurate, well presented, well running & finished Model or a mass produced over priced toy as some of the resent releases have been. Quality dose not mean that something has to cost more than the alternative.
  18. You may find this link helpful http://www.buffersmodelrailways.com/content/doc/lib/12652/couplings.pdf Pete
  19. http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/Bachmann-scenecraft-shed.html
  20. Jim I think you should replace the frosted glazing on the front windows on the shed as George Dent has, it will look nicer. The re-arrange looks great. Pete
  21. Hi Jim Looking good. Would a single slip rather than a full crossing be more practical coming from the shed? Pete
  22. Excellent pictures as always Dave How is the engine and traction motors coming on? Pete
  23. The KFA kit will be on sale on the C+L Finescale Stand at the O Gauge show Telford in September for more info please contact C+L Finescale. Pete
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