Dukedog

Will it be ready for October 2014? 
looking forward to seeing it finished.

Cheers

Frank

Those MT etches certainly make a difference.  MT does a decent range of stuff these days don't you think? 

Mostly designed by Ian Rice I have used quite a few of their etches of one thing or another for my 4mm stock.

BTW, whose chassis have you used for the 58xx? High Level or Comet maybe?

Cheers

Frank

If you would like my layout "Steam on the Cambrian" for next year just drop me a message or Email

Cheers

Frank

Great write up for a very useful modification.

Thanks for posting, that's another useful tip for when I eventually get some Hawksworths!

Cheers

Frank

In 5 inch gauge you could almost build a complete van and then set fire to it!

You won't get more authentic than that!

Cheers

Frank

Good for another 50 years!

 

Some panniers did have red numberplates, the preserved plate from one on my layout is shown in red. Maybe I'll get round to repainting mine.

Quite right but, Not in GWR days! If keeping the current livery the plates should be black. Red background plates came after nationalisation and was applied to some Mixed traffic class locos in black livery.

Sorry for sounding a bit pedantic that is not my usual way I can assure you.

Cheers

Frank

"so hopefully I will finally be able to get on with my layout,"

That's what I thought 18 months ago! Unfortunately it doesn't work like that as I found out and you may find in the future.

Talk to many here who have retired and I wager over 50% will tell you the same story.

My time is roughly split 50/50 between house maintenance and improvements and modelling, with shopping trips etc in between.

Ah well, must dash, SWMBO wants to go out!

Cheers

Frank

Yet again Tom has set the standard for us all to try and reach.

Just super work in 2mm scale.

Cheers

Frank

Incredible!

You must have the patience of a Saint! but the end results look worth the trouble.

Cheers!

Frank

Good grief! You have your work cut out there to resurrect that one!

The tender is looking good but, what did the builder use to solder the loco together? a poker heated in a coal fire?

Following this project with interest.

Cheers

Frank

I think that this post sums up why I like your modelling style so much Frank - nothing is used straight from the box and everything is modified/painted/weathered to a consistant standard.

 

Paul.

Thanks for your comment Paul,

I always make a point of NEVER using anything, Locomotives, stock, building bits and so on straight out of the box. It has to be "customised" first.

The main reason for this is that if I used stuff straight out of the box then, my layout would look just like everyone else's that used the same stuff!

I know that I am not a top finescale modeller but, I am not a train set modeller either!

Things like shiny new locos with moulded coal, buildings with no character and unpainted track on foam underlay just shout "TRAIN SET" to me, and that is not what I remember as a child.

I remember the grot, filth, and smells of coal and steam oil and that is what I am trying to recreate.

I could write for ever about my spotting days but I won't risk boring you all to death!

It is when accomplished modellers like yourself praise my efforts that I know I must be doing something right!

Cheers

Frank

Sorry about the delay in posting answers to peoples comments and questions but, here is some further information that may be useful.

Transistor Pin outs, I get lots of PMs and Email asking about the device connections so I'll post some info here.

For the TIP147 Transistor use the pin out for the TOP-3 case

For the Bc107/8 transistor use the TO-18 case.

The LED that is not shown on the circuit diagram is simply wired in series with a 1K0 resistor across the controller output but BEFORE the reversing switch.

This simply gives an indication of power output. nothing more. I added that after I published the circuit above.

Hope this information helps,

Frank

Thanks for all the kind comments and likes.

That's a cracking job. I'm fascinated as to how you use the emulsion paint.

The use of emulsion paint is not new, well, not to me anyway!

I find it gives a far better finish when brushed on than any enamel paint. The only problem is that you need a decent flat undercoat before you use it.

I find the most useful colour for locos is B&Q "Jet Black" or Wickes "Liquorice" I have several tester pots of each as they seem to come and go from the displays in stores.

I also use many colours from the flat matt range of both suppliers for general scenery work too, again much easier to use and better finish than enamels, the added bonus is it's easy to custom mix your own colours on an old plate or saucer.

cheers!

Frank

I'll just add my own admiration to the list of those before me.

Other than that I can't really say much more than what has already been said. ( I Know, another "me too" post) but sometimes you just have to say something and If that means a "me Too" then so be it!

Lovely jubbly!

Cheers

Frank

Not a bad idea Frank, what material is it made of?

Hi Tim,

It's Poly-cotton as far as I know.

Defo not Nylon,I should say it's pretty resistant to most chemicals and substances I use in my model making..

Cost wise about

Thanks for the comment Mark.

I can let you have a copy of the instructions via email in a day or two.or as soon as I can find time to copy them.

The brake hangers are from Alan Gibson (I think?) they are moulded plastic so will not cause any short circuits if they accidentally contact the wheel treads,

HTH

cheers

Frank

Did you use the K's chassis but with scale link motor and wheels?

On the "Dukedog" (shown above) I amusing the K's chassis, Home made axles, K's steel tyred wheels, Markits fly cranks and the original K's 5 pole motor.It will use a Romford 50:1 gear set when it arrives.

The front bogie is all K's original but will have some more detail added.

The "Bulldog" (Not shown on this blog entry) will use the K's chassis, Romford wheels, axles bearings and cranks (supplied by the client) and a Scale link motor with 40:1 gearbox.

Just been looking at pictures of my chosen prototype and there is a heck of a lot of detail to add to both chassis and body of 9021.

Here's one for the pedants!

looking at the pictures in various books 9021 appears in some pictures to have fluted coupling rods, on other pictures of the same engine it has plain rods fitted!

There was obviously a lot of part swapping going on at 89C!

Cheers!

Frank

Lovely engines apart from their liveries; I much prefer unlined green or black! I bet the run up the Lickey was impressive though.

Must admit I'm not a great fan of the lined out black on panniers either, much prefer the unlined black livery. As far as I am aware I never saw a lined out pannier in service when I was a spotty faced youth taking numbers in a little book!

Come to think of it I can't remember any green ones either! There again it's been over 50 years since I saw the last one in BR service!

(good grief am I really that old?)

Cheers

Frank

I can't put my finger on the answer to this but,

I don't model in N gauge (Sorry 2mmFS!) I don't model anything Southern, I have never been to the Mid Hants Railway

YET I just LOVE this layout!

The only thing I can put it down to is the atmosphere created by the builder.

There are loads of superb layouts featured on RMWeb and else where but, out of 50 ir so highly rated layouts only a hand full will have that thing that "grabs" you and that is atmosphere, you can be the best modeller in the country but, if you can't create "atmosphere" then the whole thing will leave me cold.

You just know when something is "right"

Cheers for posting and looking forward to some more!

Frank

Looking good Ian,

At least with DCC you only need 2 wires to the traverser. The one I had on an old layout that never left home was wired for DC and with 8 tracks the wiring was a nightmare!

Cheers!

Frank

Nice one Frank. Like the title! Detailing and weathering are superb.

 

Are you an airbrush or dry brush man? I'd like to buy an airbrush, but I'm still a bit unsure of having a go after ruining a perfectly good Bachmann Class 40 a couple of years ago. I'd like to think there was an easy way of achieving a finish like that on your tender, but know it takes practice. Any tips or advice?

 

Regards,

 

Mike

Hi Mike and thanks for your comments.

I do own an airbrush but, TBH I have never used it! I just can't be ased to get set up for little jobs like this so it's down to brush work.

I confess though that this model came with factory weathering applied, but, as you know that is just a quick flash with an air brush, they don't even turn the wheels so you end up with patches of bright metal where they were masked by the frames.

All I did was lightly dry brush the body with Humbrol dark grey and paint the wheel tyres.

I then dry brushed a little matt black around the axle boxes just to highlight a bit and simulate oil.

That's about it. I might add some more patina once the engine is finished to match it up with the loco.

Cheers

Frank

P.S. To Horsetan

Sorry mate, it's not a Manor, all will become clear soon. I do have a valid reason for not giving the identity away again, all will become clear shortly.

Nice bit of wood butchering there Ian! Good use of recycled materials too.

Have to agree about the HBL, best thing since sliced bread!

I have tried to get "some off the roll" but can't find a garden centre locally that sells it like that, so, I end up by buying individual liners and cutting up that.

Another thing I have done is to leave it outside in all weathers to "bleach" it out a bit, it tones the green down and also gives you patches of straw coloured HBL which looks like late summer grass.

Nice work on the layout BTW, looks to be coming along nicely.

Cheers

Frank

Hi Frank,

Could I also impose on the info for the way around the bits are connected.

All being well I shall be picking up the parts this week.

 

Khris

Details sent via PM

Cheers!

Frank

Very neat work Frank. Do your alignment bolts also provide electrical contact?

 

Tom.

Hi Tom,

thank you for your comment.

The short answer to your question is "Yes" but I will have to see how reliable this method becomes after some use and some wear has set in.

If there is a problem then a rethink will be on the cards. I want to avoid any trailing cables or slip rings if at all possible.

Cheers!

Frank