micklner

Has he used a Hornby Gresley Coach as a base ? as used here in a much better livery http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/943-lner-models-in-4mm/page__st__225 about halfway down

mmmmmmm sounds like a bit of rough riding going on :declare: :declare:

Hear hear well said :locomotive: :locomotive: :locomotive: :locomotive: Hundreds probably thousands of variations Re Rivetted Smokebox's have a look here appears to be a mixture of have and have nots http://www.lner.info/locos/B/b1thompson.shtml

quote Because you can buy them off Hattons, and generally Hattons only photograph models when they come into stock. Ah generally I have no idea if they use their own pics or not. I am sure some more pics will appear soon

How do we know these are production model pictures ? I agree they should have gone for a LNER Apple Green version much more attractive to the average punter. For me either is fine if the chimney is duff at least its a very easy fix. Overall Hornby have move the fidelity up a grade or two above Bachmanns version . Dare I say it !! Well done to Hornby ,good to say amongst all the doom and gloom being said about them elsewhere :no:

Great pictures well done. I have read in the current BRM that Tony has retired from the BRM staff . A great shame the magazine has not been the same without him. Please pass on congratulations to him and for him to enjoy his retirement , highly recomended !!

Progress on A2/2 Lord President. The Tender is ready for lining. Nothing screwed down in pictures

Brassmaster etched conversion sheets have been used on some of my Hornby A3 and A4's. Some observations RE A3 Front detail etch will not fit if using Hornby Bogie wheels. As I wanted to keep the lined LNER wheels I never used them after a trial fit. The reversing rods and ashpan lever are excellent. Both are much better than the Hornby oversize fittings. I aso used the footplate supports Some other very small parts which I never bothered with as Hornby parts are already good enough . RE A4 Used on my Black Sir Charles Newton unvalenced version. Front etch fitted after a bit of filing as not a perfect fit , a lot of plastic has not be cut from the mountings for the Hornby chassis front for them to be used. This works ok with Gibson bogie wheels, I also left a larger gap above the wheels than as designed using the etch. Small Rear footplate supports to wide for body not used larger ones used as per the A3 photo below Reversing lever no means of fitting to body not used. Ashpan lever appeared a real pain to fit not used as very little difference to the Hornby part. Same design as A3 part so will be used on one on my A3's. Again some tiny parts not used or Hornby parts good enough for me. Overall . Re A3 if you have missing reversing rods /ashpan levers ,as I had on some of my NRM A3 bought off ebay very worth buying. I also made use of one set for those parts on my A2/2 build shown above earlier. Re A4 front etch hardy visible when fitted, some parts poor size and/or no obvious way to fit. I wont use again. Instructions are at times confusing and could be written much better with bigger photos please !! Gladiateur now fitted with reversing rod on the correct side unlike the original Hornby fitting Newton Instructions suggest gluing the front etch onto the body. I decided to use the original screws this allowed removal during the fitting process. The screw heads had to be turned down to allow this method. Photos have been brightened to allow detail to be seen better

Some photos which have been brightened to show detail as requested of the Brassmaster add on etches Fron

RE A3 Front etch will not fit if using Hornby wheels. As I wanted to keep the lined LNER wheels I never used them after a trial fit. The reversing rods and ashpan lever are excellent. Both are much better than the Hornby oversize fittings. Some other very small parts which I never bothered with as Hornby parts are already good enough . RE A4 Used on my Black Sir Charles Newton unvalenced version. Front etch fitted after a bit of filing as not a perfect fit , a lot of plastic has not be cut from the mountings for the Hornby chassis front for them to be used. This works ok with Gibson bogie wheels, I also left a larger gap above the wheels than as designed using the etch. Rear footplate supports to wide for body not used Reversing lever no means of fitting to body not used. Ashpan lever appeared a real pain to fit not used as very little difference to the Hornby part. Same design as A3 part so will be used on one on my A3's. Again some tiny parts not used or Hornby parts good enough for me. Overall . Re A3 if you have missing reversing rods /ashpan levers ,as I had on some of my NRM A3 bought off ebay very worth buying. I also made use of one set for those parts on my A2/2 build shown above earlier. Re A4 front etch hardy visible when fitted, some parts poor size and/or no obvious way to fit. I wont use again. Instructions are at times confusing and could be written much better with bigger photos please !!

Another A2/2 Lord President , is on the workbench. I will post some pictures not covered in the build of The Wolf. A4 Cab mated to A2 body using the original A2 footplate to ensure all mates correctly. Photo after being left overnight for plastic cement to cure. The cab was held in place with masking tape during the cure. Gaps between cab and boiler in picture have now been filled with microstrip pieces prior to rubbing down and smoothing in due course . Attachment: Tender body repainted to LNER Apple Green. Other pictures below show how I have adapted the Hornby chassis so that the Bachmann A2 coupling can still be used. A 8BA nut and bolt held in place with Microstrip has produced a nice strong connector pin.

Very nice , the Teaks should be stunning

have you seen the Portescap whinning cure on Comet Models Download page ?

I think I had a Merit version with said brazier many many years ago

Crap typing as usual I meant to type Turnbuckle tooo

Excellent pictures A Fogmans Hut never seen one in a picture before . Presumably it is left leaning over to give more vision thanks

Looks like Truss

Nice picture. What is the large box next to the Tender ?

Sorry I should have typed more . The tiny piece of Blu Tack is placed inside the drilled hole in the base. I have found a easy way of drilling said hole. Mark center with anything sharply pointed, I use a blade tip. Hold the lamp casing gently in a pin chuck and drill carefully a hole in the Lamp base using a hand held Dremel drill. I go right through on odd occasions but normally ok. A lot quicker than trying to drill the hole by hand. I use Lamps from Alexander Models as per here on the dreaded Thompsons . They are a good price and supplied in bare metal. Glad you read you are better too

I mentioned the same to him at Ally Pally last year re Forum membership. His reply was from previous experience from other forums that no matter how he replied to a subject it always seemed a some kind of arguement, criticism or some other unusual comment. Due to his well known name he thought it was better to keep away. Very understandable IMHO Glad to hear Tony is getting better

I use a tiny piece of Blu tack

Above comment sounds interesting . Has anyone got pictures of the suburbans as the BR Version would appear to be in the shops ??

Thompson Pacific line up. The A2/1 and A2/3 were first shown on the old RM Web PDK A1/1 NuCast A2/1 DJH A2/3

No idea re Cowlairs one thing they did do was to round the corner of the bottom lining on the cab on the Firebox side only . I have never read anything else re their practices. However A.H Peppercorn was a Doncaster engine. There are excellent photos of both locos in this type of livery in East Coast Pacifics by GW Sharpe and East Coast Pacifics by P Townsend

Sorry Coach they were Green as painted and I have pictures to confirm AH Peppercorn was also painted the same. thanks