JimFin

From conversions I have heard, users of the NCE powercab swear by them, everyone else swears at theirs! I do use the Bacmann Ultima as I like the ergonomics of the controller in my hand. Also using it now with RocRail software on a laptop and via a tablet so it is very flexible. Faults over time (6+ years including exhibition use) - one failed IR receiver and 2 joysticks replaced by Bachmann.

I have not invested the time in full computer control but have been using RocRail and RocWeb and am aware of just how much capability it has. Have found them to be very responsive and helpful to deal with. For those looking for an alternative to what seems to be a difficult character to deal with, I would happily recommend RocRail.

As Paul says, Arosa line has some ideal prototypes. Peist, from the road above. Litziruti

My take is that it can work - but only in a limited range of circumstances and requires a very high skill level to pull it off well. Perspective and vanishing points are simply a matter of geometry in their construction. The biggest problem for model railways is establishing the point where the vanishing point is to be constructed from. A fundamental problem in calculating this is the eye level of the viewer, there are quite different points for a tall adult, person in a mobility device and a small child. What works for one will be compromised for the others. On a small / micro layout, its fairly easy to establish the approximate vanishing point and generate the perspective from there. On any larger layout, as the viewer moves position to see different aspects of the layout, the perspective calculation would change with every step they took which means the view would be distorted to some extent. Given that its all the art of illusion, there are all sorts of techniques which can be used to achieve a decent end product. For those with an interest in the subject - this is an excellent source book - https://books.google.co.uk/books?hl=en&lr=&id=K7bLDAAAQBAJ&oi=fnd&pg=PA1&dq=perspective+drawing+in+concept+art&ots=noq6r292XQ&sig=xuNm0rYSf7gFMednLHu7BvjeWVs#v=onepage&q&f=false

How about - connect the test rail as if it were the main track and check if the locos run correctly. If they do, the problem is probably with the PQ terminals. If they do not run correctly, then the issue is with the connection to the track or track itself.

Zimo or Lenz work very well, 6 wired mini and locate on the side of the casting with double sided tape.

Yep - 330 is the radius Bemo include in their start packs. The only issue I have had is that other HOm brands (STL and Ferro Suisse G 4/5 steam locos) are not that keen on it and cope between with 350. There is also a warning with the Bemo Allegra multiple unit not to use 330 with a reverse curve, allow a straight spacer before the return curve. In the viewing area, make the radius as big as you can with smooth transitions.

Used 2 rolls of this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3m-x-50cm-Roll-of-Fine-Aluminium-Modelling-Mesh-UK/172028257378?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

A variant of the idea would be a gliding club with hanger, basic control tower, possibly the Hornby R8989 Vintage Airfield Control Tower as mentioned by Keith MacDonald, as a lot are old RAF bases, some glider kits are available (72nd) and the odd Cessna as a tow plane. Busch do a complete package for an HO diorama (Search Busch OO/HO Gliding Airfield Diorama Set 1050) and the possibility of an air ambulance being based there?

In part the answer is choosing a printer that has a straight through option for cardstock so its not going round rollers. Each printer in its options should allow you to select the type of material you are printing onto and allow for different thickness by adjusting the pickup tension (lower tension for thicker stock) and height of the print head (higher for thicker stock) for the stock being used. Afraid there is no simple answer to your question. Its printer specific depending on how sophisticated it is.

Ravine is progressing well, given the theme of same but different from 1913 to 2013, changes are the pipeline for the hydro plant, viewing point for the hiking trail and base for the intended hikers suspension bridge. Good find at Filisur in the retaining wall as I was wondering how to disguise a baseboard join.

Well - that slowed progress

Ask the vendor of the layout what they had been using?

The Scalescenes advice for T gauge is to print N gauge downloads at 33%. - https://scalescenes.com/not-modelling-in-n-or-oo/ . Using the same logic, that means that OO to T would need you to print at 16.93% as Dungrange says. You may also want to think about cutting your paper down from A4 as the standard PDF print controls will just print you a small image in the centre of the page. Depending on what your printer will support, 3" X 5" is just about right. Select the highest resolution you can to retain as much detail as practical. Good luck with the cutting out!

You can have great fun creating your sound tracks here -https://www.ambient-mixer.com/

Fix it with Deluxe Glue 'N' Glaze is just the job for that.

Might get some ides from this courtesy of Remco Reos -

Thin enough to almost see through

Must admit I use 210 and 60 but have found warping usually caused by the first layer not being well enough adhered to the base. I do set up the bed by the book but then adjust while the brim is printing to make sure the job is firmly adhered. Adjusting by quarter turns on the base screws until the brim is translucent has worked for me. With this method, I have stopped using any adhesive on the bed.

Agree with BoD but would add - a lot of Bachmann electronics are re-badged ESU products. ESU are famous for their LokSound decoders and have been factory fitted on some Bachmann locos. Its possible you have a sound chip from them and the best source of information is via the Bachmann service knowledge base. http://service.Bachmann.co.uk/knowledge-base/decoders-dcc/ If you want to share a bit more detail about the decoder you have, more help may be available.

Information of what country or region would help as some niche manufacturers are regional specific e.g. Fides are very Swiss orientated.

That is one big problem and really if you are trying to match you need a 4k screen with a Spyder. Back to another aspect of the question in hand however - There is an issue longer term in that lower quality (usually cheaper) ink is not as colour fast / UV resistant as premium or specialist inks and a beautifully crafted model can looked washed out quite quickly so be careful in this regard - also in the building process coat with a UV block - acrylic matt varnish - to seal and preserve the colour. And that's before you get onto the choice of paper to print on! Again longevity is the issue and acid free the best option to preserve the ink. As far as hardware, to be honest any of the big 4 will work pretty well the same - Canon, HP, Epson and Brother inkjet with decent specs a shade over £100. You could consider colour laser as they are dropping in price e.g. Samsung C430 is under £200 but toner is currently more expensive than inkjet. The advantage however is roughly double the print resolution at 1200 d.p.i rather than the 600 with inkjet. If I were in the market now, I would probably go for a Canon Pixma Pro 100. Prints up to A3 including a straight through option for cardstock so its not going round rollers and a resolution of 4800 x 2400. It has 8 ink cartridges to give better adjustment of colour. Retails around £350 and gets good reviews. Tough call for you but plenty of choice for sure at all budget points.

Richard at CM3Models.co.uk does a very full range in A3 and A4 as well as combination packs including some specific to Scalescenes kits. Good service by mail order or via shows he attends in the north east. Also has an Ebay shop.

Its only a suggestion and not sure it would work but - cut back the heat shrink, find the track on the pcb where the pad detached and carefully scrape off a small are of insulation. Using a small tip to a soldering iron, attach a pin, similar material to the plug in pins on a decoder, to the PCB and then re-solder the detached wire to the pin you have created. insulate, maybe with slip over shrink wrap and hope for the best.

Got one but minimal use for modelling as yet.