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Dapol 'Western'


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  • RMweb Gold

Reckon thats 14" high for the glazing Mike - 5mm to scale? And Dapol glazing is 5mm externally! Issue is if fitting headcodes internally part of that 5mm is taken up by the walls of the perspex box arrangement Dapol have used....

 

Funny how something which measures accurately to scale might not always look exactly right on a model.....

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  • RMweb Gold

Might be handy if that were the case Mike but unfortunately if you want to retain the illumination that may not be an option as the LEDs are set below the clear boxes and use their internal surfaces to reflect through the external apertures... the whole shebang is sealed up with bots of dense black foam. It works but it aint that elegant! D1047 is off on a trip to Bulmers tonight - camera makes things brighter than really are!

 

 

32CB93BE-6146-4C4D-83F0-CAC189585E70.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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16 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:

Might be handy if that were the case Mike but unfortunately if you want to retain the illumination that may not be an option as the LEDs are set below the clear boxes and use their internal surfaces to reflect through the external apertures... the whole shebang is sealed up with bots of dense black foam. It works but it aint that elegant! D1047 is off on a trip to Bulmers tonight - camera makes things brighter than really are!

 

 

32CB93BE-6146-4C4D-83F0-CAC189585E70.jpeg

 

Given that the real things often had misaligned blinds and showed light around the edges as well as through the numerals I'd say that was a pretty fair representation.  Maybe a bit bright, maybe a smidge too much around the edges but I could live with that.  I'll see what I can do about a useable shot of one of mine.

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  • RMweb Gold
15 minutes ago, Gwiwer said:

 

Given that the real things often had misaligned blinds and showed light around the edges as well as through the numerals I'd say that was a pretty fair representation.  Maybe a bit bright, maybe a smidge too much around the edges but I could live with that.  I'll see what I can do about a useable shot of one of mine.

 

Camera makes it look much brighter than it actually is Rick....

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3 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said:

 

Camera makes it look much brighter than it actually is Rick....

 

A problem I also have.  A few images get run through the editing software before posting for that reason.  

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  • RMweb Gold

Cheers Mike need to have a play with that - the lighting functions are all to pot any way, Jim tells me he has the solution....

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  • 6 months later...
On 08/08/2019 at 15:30, maico said:

 

They are metal springs. The unit is attached to the plastic bogie and gearbox housing.

 

The front pipes running over the wheel are also metal as are the brake caliper retaining springs.

 

The axles run in proper metal sleeves and there is a external gear oiling point.

 

Unlike Trix , Brawa and the Accurascale Deltic  the gearbox housing isn't metal though, probably on cost grounds.

 

 

IMG_2671.jpg

IMG_2670.jpg

 

I think my claim the Accurascale gearbox housing is metal is premature. I've not seen a production model yet.

 

The bogie frames on the Deltic are not diecast metal as I claimed.

 

Has anyone got an exampe photo of a loco with Klear coat applied mentioned earlier?

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  • 2 months later...
On 05/04/2020 at 13:43, Phil Bullock said:

Feel the same about the face... it is worth the faff to get the headcodes inside the glazing...

 

Also have same issue with D1047’s nameplates but you can’t see dots once weathered....

F1BBB77E-E216-4A61-8C4E-DDDB06DFE2B2.jpeg

 

Agree worth the faff.

 

I recently got a couple of Westerns, a second hand maroon one Western Fusilier and Western Prince (to become Western Ranger) in the TMC sale.

 

70s Western Region isn't really my thing but I rather like these locos, and Western Fusilier was in maroon in 1985 after all although I doubt she came to Scotland that year!

 

Anyway I wasnt keen on sticking the headcode on the outside, so I had a look inside. I removed the cab and lighting unit by gently pulling the sides apart where the cab bulkhead touches the loco body. Then gently slid the whole unit, cab and light unit back.  Out if the 4, I managed to break 2 of the tiny protruding 8 light bars for the forward white and tail red light.  I did this removing the first two lighting units.  The good thing is once I realised my error, it is possible to remove them without breaking them.  Furthermore you can get spares and as it turns out when I reassembled them you don't need them anyway.

 

Drivers were fitted.

 

Headcodes, using a link Andy Y posted earlier I cut them a little smaller than they come. 

 

https://www.world-of-railways.co.uk/techniques/detailing-the-Dapol-western/

 

Then just kept trimming by small amounts until the fit perfectly.  Andy Y link suggest 1mm smaller i wasnt that brave so did it a bit at a time.  Unlike that method I had by then removed the lighting unit and found it easy to fit them  for most I used a tiny bit if glazing glue round the edge and top edge, remember to fit them the correct way up.

 

Once I put it back together I tested it.  The light bleed was awful. Bear in mind it is not designed for this approach so light come round the sides etc.  Given I had taken me hours to work out how to do it and to actually fit them i was a bit disappointed initially.  However I thought about it and since i run daylight i decided just to cover the centre led which illuminates the headcode with black masking tape to do away with the illumination and just have the white forward and red rear lamp work. Being DC I also deliberately did not reconnect the cab lighting when I put the body back together.  You still need the foam plate thing to be in place to prevent light bleed for the tail and head light into the headcode.

 

A faff yes, but it looks much better with the headcodes behind the glass and for me anyway them not being illuminated does not take away the look in daytime running.

 

 

 

Edited by Waverley47708
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I managed to fit mine without removing the cab. I just pulled the foam below pad the lights down a bit and slid the head codes in with tweezers having cut them to size first. Yes they need to be slightly smaller than the panel and like you I did it bit by bit until they were right. I don't seem to have any light bleed problems.

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On 08/01/2021 at 09:32, JST said:

I managed to fit mine without removing the cab. I just pulled the foam below pad the lights down a bit and slid the head codes in with tweezers having cut them to size first. Yes they need to be slightly smaller than the panel and like you I did it bit by bit until they were right. I don't seem to have any light bleed problems.

 

Thanks, If not fitting a driver I'd agree just try to slip it down by peeling the foam back. 

 

I'm intrigued how you managed to avoid light bleed as I ended up with a sitaution as per Phil B's photo on the last page of 5 April.

 

Went for 1A45 on Western Ranger as on the day I was born it was on 1A45,  The other end of Ranger is 2B10 (bit of a pain as that combo 2B doesn't come as a set) as when I first experienced a Western (in my mid 30s!, shocking i know) it had that headcode at SVR.

 

For Fusilier i went for 1C50 as I liked a 1C code and found a photo of a maroon one with that code, and IV93 just because I thought I looked ok and I like the look of an IV code.

20210108_104731.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

Just noticed that DCC Supplies seem to have restocked with spare parts for these super models..... 

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1 hour ago, Phil Bullock said:

Just noticed that DCC Supplies seem to have restocked with spare parts for these super models..... 

 

Pretty good stocks of spares for most of the 4mm. scale range - and the prices do not seem to be bad, either.

 

John Isherwood.

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2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

Pretty good stocks of spares for most of the 4mm. scale range - and the prices do not seem to be bad, either.

 

John Isherwood.


Yup some good stuff there for us class 22 bashers too.... D6336 done, D6342 in paint shop. 

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8 hours ago, Waverley47708 said:

 

Thanks, If not fitting a driver I'd agree just try to slip it down by peeling the foam back. 

 

I'm intrigued how you managed to avoid light bleed as I ended up with a sitaution as per Phil B's photo on the last page of 5 April.

 

Went for 1A45 on Western Ranger as on the day I was born it was on 1A45,  The other end of Ranger is 2B10 (bit of a pain as that combo 2B doesn't come as a set) as when I first experienced a Western (in my mid 30s!, shocking i know) I had that headcode at SVR.

 

For Fusilier i went for 1C50 as I liked a 1C code and found a photo of a maroon one with that code, and IV93 just because I thought I looked ok and I like the look of an IV code.

20210108_104731.jpg

 The answer is I am not sure how I avoided light bleed... if indeed, I did to your standard! However, it seems fine. I guess I got the head code slightly larger than the panel and pushed it into place. At some point I will try and get a photo. Sadly I need to change the head code as I messed up the "1A" I wanted to fit and put "1M" in instead. Need to order another 1A

I am somewhat older than you so much so that as a trainspotter I bunked Swindon works and saw the Westerns being built. Awesome days!

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I used trimmed Heljan headcode characters in my Dapol “Westerns”. The efforts which went into getting the illumination level accurate (for incandescent bulbs) seem to have paid off because mine don’t seem to suffer from light bleed. 
 

It is a tricky job to remove the cab assembly and dismantle the small parts which make up the headcode assembly but placing a crew (always two in a Western) in the seats and having internal headcode characters in place of the Dapol-supplied externally-stuck ones does improve the appearance of an already fine model. 

0F700C5E-FE0B-46C2-AD23-8F7F3D1602C6.jpeg.f512a1f80fbe99b8c7f6819472e35b42.jpeg

 

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22 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:

Just noticed that DCC Supplies seem to have restocked with spare parts for these super models..... 

 

The detail pack which includes everything except nameplates is good value at £8. I called yesterday to ask if the pack included the brake rods or not.  I was told it did and so I've ordered a pack.  My maroon one came without any I'd the details.

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14 hours ago, Gwiwer said:

I used trimmed Heljan headcode characters in my Dapol “Westerns”. The efforts which went into getting the illumination level accurate (for incandescent bulbs) seem to have paid off because mine don’t seem to suffer from light bleed. 
 

It is a tricky job to remove the cab assembly and dismantle the small parts which make up the headcode assembly but placing a crew (always two in a Western) in the seats and having internal headcode characters in place of the Dapol-supplied externally-stuck ones does improve the appearance of an already fine model. 

0F700C5E-FE0B-46C2-AD23-8F7F3D1602C6.jpeg.f512a1f80fbe99b8c7f6819472e35b42.jpeg

 

 

Always two drivers!

 

Oh well guess I am going to have to open them up again as I only put one in.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Quick question about the lightig on these - I used to have a Dapol Western but sold it on and I'm now looking at buying a replacement so would really like to know before I do;

 

My original ran fine on DC but when I fitted a Bachmann 21 pin chip it killed the cab lights at one end and it was always the same end regardless of direction. Can anyone surmise why please? 

 

Cheers,

 60800

 

 

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