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The problem is that the Flying Scotsman A3/A1 model has been around for around 60 years. It is unrealistic to expect anyone to know exactly which parts will fit which model, since it has been retooled many times. I think that is a good result for you to have found replacement parts for your model. You've already stated that it was easier 40 years ago, yes because the models were much simpler and parts were used in multiple models. Now parts are far more unique to individual models, because they are far more accurate. That is what the majority of the current purchasers claim they want.

Double iPhone in mine too. Roy

Um, maybe they are all as p****d as newt?

Active/Locomotion through its working life! the preserved engine uses the boiler of Diligence and the other parts are just bits at hand, made up to look like how they thought it looked which sadly it doesnt, these are early tests, engine are based on Dr. Baileys report, the tenders I am currently updating to fit in with the working life of the engine

For these early Bachmann nem pockets that are mounted too high there is a kluge you can do, till you decide on something more permanent perhaps. This won’t work for automatic uncoupling but it should work for coupling. Remove the nem pocket from the mounting block on the wagon chassis and simply turn it over. Put the kadee in with its magnetic drop pin facing the same way as the tapered side of the pocket fish tale. Then push the flat side of the socket fish tale into the chassis socket, but don’t push it all the way home. That fish tail on the mounting block is a little delicate so I tend to use a finger mail on tapered solid block of the tail itself to avoid too much pressure on the thin flexible section. There should be enough friction that the pocket will stay at the height you push it to for a long time. The kadee will still sit too high probably but there will be enough height overlap for the coupling phase to work. Hope this works for you. Tom

Ultimately these things can only get a definitive answer if tested in court. One of my pet hates is dealing with government departments who when asked about rules and regulations offer some vague answer which say's nothing and when pressed resort to 'that can only be answered in court'. OK, I get there are always scenarios which are subject to differing interpretation (though well drafted laws should minimize this unless it is deliberate) but if governments responsible for drafting and enacting laws can't give a straight answer on what they mean then how is anyone else meant to figure it all out?

Night Owl from the Piedmont.

We tend to ignore that bit. It's a bit like anything North of Watford.

Thank you, duly corrected.

Looks just fine from this side of the Atlantic.

What's her point?

I'm not sure if that specific tank car has a prototype, but there are similar tank cars with vertical tanks. Most are pretty basic, essentially a flat car with "tubs" on top. The Densmore Tank Car was a patented early tank car for oil. An example can be seen at this site. A Central Pacific water tank car can be seen here in the foreground along with a drawing which I believe is of a model.

Hi and thanks for the info. I am purchasing a re magneftizer from Ronald to beef up the magnet state which may help, Brian. Do you know if th .6 amps is based on the 1amp supplied voltage, i was thinking that id throw 4 amps at the controller to increase cheers

I recall reading a biography of Rommel, in it was a photo of him holding a pet fox. This was long before WW2 so no relation the the Sahara.

A bit pricey. You can find made up ones a lot cheaper. Just give 'em the lighter fuel treatment to break the glue joints! As for the L.O.T.I. chassis. The kit boiler has to be dremeled out to be almost paper thin on the crown so the block fits nice and snug. Crankpins can be inserted in the wheels to hold the rods and Triang princess slide bars and piston rods come to the fore.

Twice I had a bat get into my house. Scary (due to the possibility of rabies) but managed to get them out.

Pictures of a number of versions on the Wright writes thread. Hopefully this is a link to the specific post:

Pugh, Pugh, Barney McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble and Grubb?

I'm trusting my memory here, so don't shoot me down. Hornby and Peco certainly use the same 1st/2nd/3rd/4th radius designations (I think there's a typo above by the way - 2nd radius is 438mm not 428mm )but I'm not sure which came first - probably Hornby, as I'm sure System 6 track predated Setrack. I do seem to recall that at one time, before 4th radius was introduced (possibly even earlier, with Super 4), Hornby described their track as small/medium/large radius. PS - interesting that Peco 4th radius is described as 571.5mm not 572mm, thereby breaking the 67mm track centres rule slightly - I wonder why?

Then they are not NEM boxes and if a manufacturer claims they are (which they tend not to but simply fit them) then they are guilty of false description. As EJStubbs says, MOROP's specification (NEM 362) for an NEM box includes its height and also the relationship bwetween the front edge of the coupling and the buffer face (though that's a dimension where manufacturers do seem to play fast and loose). If the boxes are truly to NEM362 (which in my experience many are not) you should be able to fit the same Kadee NEM362 coupler (depending on curves etc.) to all your stock. In practice, I keep a selection of them and fit the most appropriate to each vehicle. The biggest problem I find is that on a lot of vehicles where the NEM box is on a kinematic mount (the sort with lateral movement that opens up as two vehicles go round a curve) the box tends to droop and that completely screws up the operation of Kadees (and some other couplers as well) This is all very frustrating because Kadee produced these couplers in good faith assuming that European manufacturers would actually follow their own pan European standards as faithfully as US manufacturers do for NMRA standards (and have to if they're not in the model rather than toy train market and want to stay in business) The 17-20 Kadee couplers do indeed have the same coupler head and pivot and the length of the shank between the "fishtail" and the coupler head are of different lengths to accomodate differences in curvature etc. Their cranked design is because in the US market the height of the coupler pocket and the coupler head are defined by an NMRA standard based on their standard height in the prototype and the coupler head, which resembles in appearance the standard AAR coupler is at scale height. The NEM box was designed to sit under the buffer beam and draw hook of buffered stock in H0 so as to make th actual coupler (which is never authentic) less visually obtrusive so it is lower than the NMRA pocket in the same scale.

It's worth noting that Fremo and Freemo are related but different standards from Europe and North America respectively. There are pros and cons to both. Any exterior ply should be suitable. Interior ply isn't structural and will eventually absorb moisture from the atmosphere. The end plate standards for industrial modules ("americaN industries") are deliberately vague. The standard says "There is no explicit faceplate with a given width or a specified track position on the module. The track is laid directly to the “ground” without roadbed." There are lots of photos of such modules online but I can't find any of them under construction!

Years ago (I think it was about 1998?) a working members letter did ask about if anyone had any quarrying and mining expertise as there was a plan to put the bridge back over Hollybush Road and then hollow out the tunnel underneath High Town to create a subterranean roundhouse, apparently it would have been the perfect spot to put the turntable that had just been acquired from Bath Road. It all sounded rather feasible until you checked the date on and the Author… 1st April and Lipra Loof 😜

The modern option is the DCC Sound version that controls the trains with an phone app through bluetooth. this does work really well, so I'm using this for the tt layout. Trainset controllers tend to be cheap and cheerful for the most part. I think there is a very limited market for a premium DC controller these days.

The whole footplate doesn't look quite straight and level in the first photo, which might be affecting the fit. Is is too late to do anything about that?

J5728 - great cars, especially that rather tatty Mk1 Cortina!