RBE Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 I also got these. Oooh. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
87023Velocity Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hi Cav, Nice job on the class 56 grills. Those signal heads look quite crisp too. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Cheers Simon, the signal heads look great. They are very very small and are beautifully printed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Very nice Cav, the signal heads look great, especially being so small. That is good to hear about the grilles, I can certainly provide you with measurements or the loco itself! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigP Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) -- Edited January 31, 2021 by bigP Deleted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 I have some special axial LEDs that are basically a 2mm squares with a 1.6mm nipple/lens on top that will fit exactly in the holes in the head, these once painted up should just look like the back of the signal head from the rear. For the feathers and position lights I plan on using white SMD LEDs behind. I may have to look at fibre optics for the ground signal though as I'm not sure whether I will have space in those for 3 SMD's all independently controlled, we'll see. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Very nice Cav, the signal heads look great, especially being so small. That is good to hear about the grilles, I can certainly provide you with measurements or the loco itself! It would be better if I had the loco I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw7300 Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 I have some special axial LEDs that are basically a 2mm squares with a 1.6mm nipple/lens on top that will fit exactly in the holes in the head, these once painted up should just look like the back of the signal head from the rear. For the feathers and position lights I plan on using white SMD LEDs behind. I may have to look at fibre optics for the ground signal though as I'm not sure whether I will have space in those for 3 SMD's all independently controlled, we'll see. Great work on the signal heads Cav. I made some in OO gauge using prewired 0603 SMD LED's - these measured 1.6 x 0.8MM - not sure if that would be too large for N. The main attraction was using a red/white bi-colour for the lower right light allowed a red-red / white-white combination. If it's any help, I posted a couple of pics on my layout thread here. Have a great Christmas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) Yeah cheers for that. The N gauge ones are really really small. Half a mil at most, I cant remember the actual size right now. The issue with bi colour leds is that in the late 80s early 90s the ground signals were lamps and showed ether red and white on the bottom or 2 whites at an angle. So I need a white that is permanently on in the corner and then two aspects (red and white) that switch over when cleared. In all honesty I doubt the ground signals will ever get used as they are for wrong line working from the northbound side over to the branch but you just know I'll do that move at some point and not have the right signal clearance option! Edited December 24, 2015 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 I have some special axial LEDs that are basically a 2mm squares with a 1.6mm nipple/lens on top that will fit exactly in the holes in the head, these once painted up should just look like the back of the signal head from the rear. Hi Cav, I hope you don't mind me asking but what are these LED's exactly and where did you manage to get them from? Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) Just type in 1.5mm axial LED into ebay. They come from china but are great. I'm not convinced that they are 1.5mm though as I just tried them in my heads and they are a tiny tad too big to go right in. I need to either open out the heads a touch or try to narrow the leds. Edit: Just stuck my calipers on one and they work out at 1.65mm across which is a right pain seeing as my prints have 1.6mm holes in them!! Edited December 23, 2015 by RBE 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hi Cav, Thank you for that info. I think they may be bit big for what I want, I may have to look at using SMD LED combined with the lens from a tower LED. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 A tower LED lens is 2mm diameter. The same as the square part on these. What are you using them for? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hi Cav, Yes I know, I have used them before and just used wet and dry to reduce their diameter and shape them. I'm looking to put some LEDs into the No 2 end (cab end) of my class 20 but because there is hardly any depth to the cab front 'wall' I don't want tower LED's sticking out into the cab as you can see in through the large windows. I was thinking if I used the tower part of the LED lens and use a very small SMD I might get away with this obtrusion. It's only a thought at the moment and I may just have to go with the tower LEDs anyway. When will you get back to laying track?... I really enjoyed watching you build that... sheer genius!!! Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium richierich Posted December 23, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2015 I picked up some 0402 SMD LEDs prewired, which are insanely small. Might be an option for the GPLs and feather? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Yes I have some of those. I will be trying to do something neat with those. I drew them on my cad drawing of the signal and they fit ok. It's just a matter of fat fingers putting them on!! On a positive note I just ran my airbrush nozzle reamer through the signal heads and the axial LEDs now fit like a glove! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 Hi Cav, Yes I know, I have used them before and just used wet and dry to reduce their diameter and shape them. I'm looking to put some LEDs into the No 2 end (cab end) of my class 20 but because there is hardly any depth to the cab front 'wall' I don't want tower LED's sticking out into the cab as you can see in through the large windows. I was thinking if I used the tower part of the LED lens and use a very small SMD I might get away with this obtrusion. It's only a thought at the moment and I may just have to go with the tower LEDs anyway. When will you get back to laying track?... I really enjoyed watching you build that... sheer genius!!! Cheers Lee I have laid all of the scenic track now so won't be back on that until I have to do the hidden curves and fiddle yard traverser/sector plate. The next plan for the layout is to finish wiring up the track at the station end, laying the signal ducting at that end too and then a coat of primer to it all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Broke the layout out today to get a bit of progress underway. Wired up all the track with droppers and then cleaned the living daylights out of the rail tops with a nail polisher. I used one of those fancy sponge blocks that polish down to a mirror finish by using all 4 sides. It pays to get a very smooth finish on your rail tops, both for the next bit and when running the layout when its finished as a smooth surface pick up less dirt and cleans off easier in the long run. So after the big clean a coat of grey halfords primer and another go over the rail tops, this time with my finger nail. Came off a treat. Close up view of primed pointwork Overall view of primed layout 60027 heads south on the freight loop with the kingsbury tanks, this train would rarely be routed on the 15mph slow loop here though and and would be more likely seen rattling through the platform at 50mph. Next job is to get the trackwork painted. Firstly the sleepers will be airbrushed appropriate shades of brown and concrete to represent the wooden and concrete varieties (I'll also paint the signal ducting etc with the concrete colour), then the rail sides will be painted a lighter, dusty brown (can't remember the shade but I will post the shades I use when I do it), after that I will need to add the lineside brickwork etc before laying ballast. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Very nice Cav. I've never primed my sleepers but I'm definitely going to do it this time on Euston. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Hi Cav, It's nice to see some progress on B-o-T. The track work looks superb and I can now see why you feel quite passionate about building your own track. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) It's not something I have done in the past either Jeremy but I find that paint doesn't stick to the greasy plastic used for sleepers very well and ultimately parts company as does the paint on rail sides. I also have a large portion of copperclads on here so getting everything to a consistant base point makes sense I think. Looking forward to getting the track colours on now. Cheers for the comments Lee. I really couldn't go peco again it would grate me to death! Edited December 27, 2015 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I'd never go back to Peco too, I really like building my own track work and it allows greater flexibility and flow. I've learnt from not priming rails as the paint never sticks well and when you add additional washes, it just comes away and I've ended up with patchy and shiny rail sides showing. Looking forward to seeing your colours Cav, and if Outen Road is anything to go by, track work on BoT will be amazing too. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Yes shiny rails are rubbish! I guess the pressure is on to make the track on BoT kick a$$ with the Outon Road comparisons and the fuss I've made on the forum about Peco track haha. Oh well it begins! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Good to see the layout progressing. It'll be interesting to see how you weather the track; thanks in advance for taking the time to post! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 No problem. I've found my colours out now. I'm going Humbrol Matt for all three. No173 for the timber sleepers, No28 for the concrete and No110 for the rail sides. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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