BG John Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I used a chainsaw for cutting full size sleepers in half for the real L&B! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 I used a chainsaw for cutting full size sleepers in half for the real L&B! Nice one! It's funny I'm often accused of oversized tools for small modelling jobs... I'm hoping in some small way our project will promote and raise awareness of the line rebuild... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Nice one! It's funny I'm often accused of oversized tools for small modelling jobs... I'm hoping in some small way our project will promote and raise awareness of the line rebuild... I've got some 7mm track to build some time, but have decided against using the chainsaw for it, as I think a razor saw will do! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Now I'm glue the template to a piece of wood. apply the glue to both surfaces, allow the paper to expand before sticking down much the same as you do wallpaper. This should ensure the paper goes down with no wrinkles. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Stain the sleepers A second coat needed I think Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 11, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 11, 2015 Would a straight edge and card spacers work as well as the template ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Would a straight edge and card spacers work as well as the template ? Yes I guess so. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 I've used the stain to darken the template, this ensures you don't see any bright white bits if you miss a piece of ballasting... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 I've now stuck the sleepers down to the template with PVA. I've added weights to hold the sleepers down flat 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted October 11, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 11, 2015 I use 3M Craft Mount spray adhesive; prevents the stretching that can occur if you use PVA to stick the template down. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Once dry we get to this point. This is proving to be a bit of a revision session for me from when we built the track for New Haden using a similar methods.. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 I've now applied a layer of glue around the sleepers and sprinkled some ballast on. The ballast is too fine as it is N gauge ballast I used on my EM Gauge layout, but you get the idea. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Now I've cut the rail to length (30 foot panel) and threaded the correct amount of baseplates on to the rail. I've used another copy of the drawing to align the baseplates with the sleepers 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 I've sprayed the rail and baseplates before installing the rail on to the sleepers, just to give it a basecoat, 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Now I've stuck the rails down to the sleepers using Butanone. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 So this is where we ended up. I'm reasonably pleased, I think it can be improved but happy as a start. I'll scrape the ballast off from around the sleeper sides that should improve things I may even use sleepers without holes in for the proper build... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 11, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 11, 2015 That looks brilliant, just the job! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 To give it size context here it is next to Scale 7 point; 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 and against the On30 track I built with copperclad. The sleeper sizing and position is so important to get the correct look, I get this now 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted October 11, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 11, 2015 Looking great! What are you going to use for the sleepers on the layout? Have you thought about cutting your own sleepers from plywood sheet? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Looking great! What are you going to use for the sleepers on the layout? Have you thought about cutting your own sleepers from plywood sheet? Thank you. I'll buy ready cut, Mark has found out that C&L do laser cut 7mm sleepers without the rivet holes and are 3mm thick. So that sounds like a plan to me. The question I don't know the answer to at present is what width sleepers were used on the Switch and Crossings? Were they wider as per standard gauge practise? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 I've had a running session... The stock is going to look big on that little track 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted October 11, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 11, 2015 The question I don't know the answer to at present is what width sleepers were used on the Switch and Crossings? Were they wider as per standard gauge practise? Looking at the baseplates and their size in relation to the sleepers, I'd be tempted to say the turnouts will need wider timbers, otherwise the baseplates on the diverging rail are going to come very close to the edges of the timber. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Looking at the baseplates and their size in relation to the sleepers, I'd be tempted to say the turnouts will need wider timbers, otherwise the baseplates on the diverging rail are going to come very close to the edges of the timber. Yes, so I'll work on the basis of using wider timbers for the S&C. Fair point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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