Dapol 08

[Happy Hippo]

I disappear for a few days and all sorts of goodies break loose!

 

I'd like to be considered for 3 sets of the guard iron etches please.

 

I have just made a payment for the three wiper sets I said yes please to. 

[3 link]

I thought I would give the 08 a couple more tweaks today, starting with the windscreen wipers from Giles. They are a bit fiddly to fit and the only thing that I did different was to use a 0.7mm drill instead or the 0.6mm, but once in place they do enhance the model.

 

 

I also beefed up the vacuum pipes which are a bit on the small side. I used the Slaters vacuum springs with some bag end castings that I had laying around. They were a piece of cake to fit, just cut the very end off the existing pipes and then thread on the new ones and glue in place.

 

 

 

Sorry for the picture quality it was taken with an iPhone, but hopefully you get the idea.

 

Once I get the guard irons fitted I will make a start on the weathering.

 

Martyn.

Edited May 7, 2017 by 3 link

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I thought I would give the 08 a couple more tweaks today, starting with the windscreen wipers from Giles. They are a bit fiddly to fit and the only thing that I did different was to use a 0.7mm drill instead or the 0.6mm, but once in place they do enhance the model.

IMG_2467.JPG

I also beefed up the vacuum pipes which are a bit on the small side. I used the Slaters vacuum springs with some bag end castings that I had laying around. They were a piece of cake to fit, just cut the very end off the existing pipes and then thread on the new ones and glue in place.

IMG_2464.JPG

IMG_2466.JPG

Sorry for the picture quality it was taken with an iPhone, but hopefully you get the idea.

Once I get the guard irons fitted I will make a start on the weathering.

Martyn.

Hi Martyn,

 

Nice work! Id almost forgotten about the vac pipes-neat trick to beef them up!

 

All those little tweaks really help make the model.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[3 link]

Hi CME,

 

I agree, hopefully make up some guard irons at the weekend and then it's on to the weathering.

 

As for the vacuum pipes they were the quickest fix of the lot, on the end of the existing Dapol pipes there is what can only be described as a small disc. I just cut it off and maybe 3mm of pipe, then the Slaters spring just slides over it, like pulling on a sock. Then a dab of superglue held it in place.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

[daveymills]

anybody any ideas as to whether the next TOPS loco 08173 will come with yellow rods instead of red ?

 

(i did search but found nowt)

 

cheers

Dave

[deltic17]

anybody any ideas as to whether the next TOPS loco 08173 will come with yellow rods instead of red ?

 

(i did search but found nowt)

 

cheers

Dave

Now that would make sense.......

 

Dapol do seem to listen more than others so hopefully YES!!!!

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Now that would make sense.......

 

Dapol do seem to listen more than others so hopefully YES!!!!

They do seem to be nowadays-thank goodness!    

[Dmudriver]

Hi Giles.

 

I've just been told about your wipers and guard irons and have read through the last few pages of the thread.  Can I order a set of each, please?

 

Have you a price for the 2 items yet?  I've seen the question asked above, but can't see an answer - have I missed it somewhere?

 

I'll pay you by Paypal.

 

 

Rod

[davy crockett]

Does anyone know the thread size of the conrod bolts please.

[3 link]

Hi,

 

If you mean the crank pin bolts, I do not know of anyone who has taken these off. I have drifted the cranks off of the axles and they didn't come off easy. If you do want to take them off I would recommend that you heat the cranks first as I reckon they are screwed in with some form of loctite.

 

Martyn.

[davy crockett]

Yes Martyn its a crank pin bolt which has broken off. I need to drill and re-tap.

[3 link]

Gosh not an easy job, the crank itself feels like it's made of aluminium so you would have to be very careful drilling out the broken off thread. Probably best to drift off the crank itself at least then you can work on it on a flat stable surface. You can see how I managed to get the cranks off on page 56 of this topic.

 

Martyn.

Edited May 21, 2017 by 3 link

[Guest Isambarduk]

Yes Martyn its a crank pin bolt which has broken off. I need to drill and re-tap.

 

"Gosh not an easy job,"

 

Just so! I have rescued Slater's wheels for people who have had steel crank pin screws shear off in the plastic, so you have the same challenge really.  Here is a link to what I do:

 

www.davidlosmith.co.uk/Model-Parts.htm#RescuingDrivingWheels

 

but I would not have to like to try and do it without my machine tools.  All the best with it.

 

David

 

[Guest Isambarduk]

On second thoughts, davy crockett, perhaps your task is more like rescuing a brass flycrank but it's still the same idea:

 

www.davidlosmith.co.uk/Model-Parts.htm#RepairToFlycrank

 

David

 

[3 link]

On second thoughts, davy crockett, perhaps your task is more like rescuing a brass flycrank but it's still the same idea:

 

 

www.davidlosmith.co.uk/Model-Parts.htm#RepairToFlycrank

 

David

 

Hi David,

 

Hope your keeping well, your magnetic shutters pole is fantastic and has been earning its living this afternoon.

 

On a different note I would say the cranks on the 08 are possibly made of aluminium or a similar light metal, hence the importance of drilling out what's left of the pin on a flat stable surface. Otherwise being a relatively soft metal the chances of the drill bit deflecting and doing further damage is highly likely.

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi David, Martyn et al.,

 

I have to - changing the subject slightly - echo Martyn's comments the shunters poles are great! As I am using modified TL couplings though, for that application the magnets are a little on the weak side - I had some slightly larger magnets (tiny) that I put in a safe place (now mislaid!) and I was wondering if I could use those instead of the ones which you had supplied with the shunters pole? Any advice gratefully received.

 

Davy Crockett,

 

I would also be interested to hear how the pin sheared on the Dapol 08.

 

Kind regards to all,

 

CME

Edited May 21, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Guest Isambarduk]

... being a relatively soft metal the chances of the drill bit deflecting and doing further damage is highly likely.

 

 

I would say that it would be inevitable, Martyn!  Even keeping everything flat and square the drill will certainly wander unless you can also keep everything very rigid.  You would stand a better chance if you could accurately centre the hole and then drill rather smaller than the core diameter of the thread so that you are drilling only in the steel screw, opening up afterwards with a larger drill (I use 0.7mm followed by 1.0mm for removing 12BA). 

 

I am delighted that you are pleased with the shunters pole.  David

[Guest Isambarduk]

Hi David, Martyn et al.,

 

I have to - changing the subject slightly - echo Martyn's comments the shunters poles are great! As I am using modified TL couplings though, for that application the magnets are a little on the weak side - I had some slightly larger magnets (tiny) that I put in a safe place (now mislaid!) and I was wondering if I could use those instead of the ones which you had supplied with the shunters pole? Any advice gratefully received.

 

Thank you, CME!  Yes, I can well imagine that the little magnets, even with their cup pole pieces, are a bit weak for TL couplings. 

 

Are you using one of the poles with a larger (2mm diameter) magnet that was intended for 7mm or one of the later and more popular ones with small magnets (1mm diameter) that was requested by 4mm modellers? The larger ones are 4.0mm diameter over the pole piece and the smaller ones are 2.5mm diameter over the pole piece.  If you are using small ones, perhaps a larger one would be worth a try? 

 

If you already have the larger ones, it might be worth scaling things up a bit with a larger magnet and correspondingly larger pole piece but the problem might be that there is just an insufficient mass of steel in the TL coupling to create the magnetic attraction required to lift it, in which case a 'lump' of steel, strategically placed where it doesn't interfere with the operation of the coupling but where you can reach it, might be the answer.  I'd be interested to know.

 

David

Edited May 21, 2017 by Isambarduk

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Thank you, CME!  Yes, I can well imagine that the little magnets, even with their cup pole pieces, are a bit weak for TL couplings. 

 

Are you using one of the poles with a larger (2mm diameter) magnet that was intended for 7mm or one of the later and more popular ones with small magnets (1mm diameter) that was requested by 4mm modellers? The larger ones are 4.0mm diameter over the pole piece and the smaller ones are 2.5mm diameter over the pole piece.  If you are using small ones, perhaps a larger one would be worth a try? 

 

If you already have the larger ones, it might be worth scaling things up a bit with a larger magnet and correspondingly larger pole piece but the problem might be that there is just an insufficient mass of steel in the TL coupling to create the magnetic attraction required to lift it, in which case a 'lump' of steel, strategically placed where it doesn't interfere with the operation of the coupling but where you can reach it, might be the answer.  I'd be interested to know.

 

David

Hi David,

 

It was a couple of shunters poles that are the type suitable for 7mm models-AFAICT the OD of the magnets is +/- 4.0mm.

 

With the TLs for use with shunters pole (and occassional 3 link use) I drill a small hole and add a tiny steel pin to the top edge of the TL hook and larger magnets (6mm) seem to, after trial and error, cope okay and lift the TL hooks. As I say I have some RE magnets, nominally, IIRC, 5.0mm.

 

I realise that the shunters poles werent designed with modified TLs in mind though.

 

Sorry for the hijack everyone!

 

ATVB

 

CME.

[boxbrownie]

I would say that it would be inevitable, Martyn!  Even keeping everything flat and square the drill will certainly wander unless you can also keep everything very rigid.  You would stand a better chance if you could accurately centre the hole and then drill rather smaller than the core diameter of the thread so that you are drilling only in the steel screw, opening up afterwards with a larger drill (I use 0.7mm followed by 1.0mm for removing 12BA). 

 

 

 

Are there not Centre Drills available in the smaller sizes?

 

If not, grinding (shortening) a normal bit to the shank almost and clamping very close to the chuck will have a similar effect hopefully.

Edited May 22, 2017 by boxbrownie

[Guest Isambarduk]

Are there not Centre Drills available in the smaller sizes?

 

There certainly are, David. 

 

I can thoroughly recommend The Drill Service for all drills and cutters.  They are more expensive than the offerings that you may obtain from a certain emporium or from a company whose name suggest that they are of high social standing and live on a country estate but they are far better quality (harder and sharper) and are far more cost effective.  For centre drills, see here:  www.drill-service.co.uk/Product.asp?Parent=040020060020&Tool=720 product CD-0.50SE (0.500mm) or CD-0.63X3.15 (0.630mm), both £3.91, should do it. 

 

Make up an order for £10 or more and your order will be post paid so time to replace those inexpensive drills in your most used sizes that no longer cut!  I suggest looking here: www.drill-service.co.uk/Product.asp?Parent=020080440000&Tool=394 but do not frighten yourself with the prices of the you-cannot-be-serious smaller drills at the top of the list; an 0.7mm drill (product D-0.70) is £1.21.  Happy shopping (I always am here).

 

David

Edited May 22, 2017 by Isambarduk

[Bartb]

Does anyone know if a company do replacement Metal Ladders for the Dapol 08. one of mine broke today I can repair it but seems so fiddly

Thank

[70E]

I have an unnumbered BR black version and am looking to commission a pair of numbers for it from Railtec. Can anyone advise on the following?

 

a) would they have been given a shed plate or did they only apply to steam locomotives?

b) The Dapol applied livery is very minimal, would there have been other written details applied that Dapol have missed off that could be applied by using transfers? Oil filler, makers plate etc.

c) could anyone post some reference pictures?

 

Thanks

[Greenmodelmonkey]

Does anyone know if a company do replacement Metal Ladders for the Dapol 08. one of mine broke today I can repair it but seems so fiddly

Thank

It's only the paint that holds the ladder together mine did the same and I sent the loco back and got replacement.

[3 link]

I have an unnumbered BR black version and am looking to commission a pair of numbers for it from Railtec. Can anyone advise on the following?

a) would they have been given a shed plate or did they only apply to steam locomotives?

b) The Dapol applied livery is very minimal, would there have been other written details applied that Dapol have missed off that could be applied by using transfers? Oil filler, makers plate etc.

c) could anyone post some reference pictures?

Thanks

Good luck with Railtec, have been waiting for a reply since March.... Edited May 23, 2017 by 3 link