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Loco test track


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I usually test a loco on a straight piece of track, this is fine for initial running but I have been thinking about including a turnout or two, this is to test what I can say is the "agility" of the chassis

 

One thought would be the smallest size you use on the layout, though it might be better to use one slightly smaller, would it be even better to introduce something else single slip?

 

Please let me know what you find useful or thoughts on the subject

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I have a "test track" which is a plank on which there are a series of curves at 24", small radius points and a diamond crossing. The track is peco finescale. If my loco's can negotiate that then they don't usually have a problem. My minimum radius is 36".

 

Ian

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That very much depends on the standards that you are working to.

 

For me it would be 42" radius with a bit of 36" radius and an A6 point.

 

A reverse curve of your chosen minimum rides could also prove useful.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

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At Telford I bought a couple of Peco 0 gauge points so that the test track will demonstrate the locos' ability to negotiate a reverse curve and track imperfections (the common crossing).

 

I believe that OzzyO uses 4 tracks connecting to a double slip with an automated shuttle arrangement that also switches the slip so the locos can be left shuffling from road to road through different radii.

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I have a test track with back to back pairs of points, PECO medium and PECO short radius. They're arranged to form reverse curves. I have that same arrangement in Code 100 and Code 75 and usually test on both.

 

It also has a 3' radius curve alongside one at a slightly smaller radius (as well as an 18" Setrack curve, which very seldom gets used).

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Thanks for the input, it will be code 75 and have hand built track, looks like  a reverse curve is a must and a turnout as small if not smaller than the smallest which is going to be used normally. 

 

Whilst not being able to do the electrics for random movement through a slip, the idea does have some merit. Having a straight run through a slip but with the option of using the slip road.

 

Thanks for the sugestions 

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Be careful! Twice now, once back in the 1980's, and again now, I have started out making a 'simple' test track, and each time it has conspired to morph itself into a minimum space layout... that I like them probably doesn't help....

 

A pair of opposite handed crossovers at the minimum size for the scale/gauge used is probably the best configuration as it also allows for the testing of bufferlocking etc with rolling stock.

 

Izzy

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Be careful! Twice now, once back in the 1980's, and again now, I have started out making a 'simple' test track, and each time it has conspired to morph itself into a minimum space layout... that I like them probably doesn't help....

 

A pair of opposite handed crossovers at the minimum size for the scale/gauge used is probably the best configuration as it also allows for the testing of bufferlocking etc with rolling stock.

 

Izzy

 

Agreed my "test track" with a scissors crossover on unequal curves has turned into a layout in 7mm, Tilsdown.

Fun building the track tho' it was also a test for my track building abilities!

Nick

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Do you build your chassis' rigid or flexible?

 

If the latter, you might want to introduce a degree of "twist" to make sure the springing/compensation works as it should.

 

post-730-0-50915500-1444544041_thumb.jpg

 

As I hope is clear from this picture, I did it simply by sliding a longtitudal ply sleeper under the ends of a few transverse sleepers.  I made a slight mistake in putting the two tilt zones a little too close together - bigger six-coupled locos can struggle a bit because they straddle the transition zone.  Gauges are 18.2 and 12mm.

 

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..... I do thoroughly enjoy partially building model locomotives and rolling stock ......

This is exactly what it's all about for me. A model is rarely truly "finished", as there's always something more to try....

 

..... I can't understand a thing on that taskbar above this box.....

 

I hardly ever use it, apart from the Bold / Italic / Underline buttons.

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Being economy minded, my 'test track' has always been integrated with the layout. .You design in a route that includes all the most challenging features of the layout, and there's your test track

 

... I do thoroughly enjoy partially building model locomotives and rolling stock based on period of the mid fifties to the early sixties... 

You are far from alone. Everything I have made isn't quite truly complete. Often trivia like numbers or small fittings get left for whenever I get a round tuit. But in my case because operating is the priority. Good luck with the cod catch.

 

Edited to add the reply to the OP that I forgot to post

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I always used to test locos on a piece of straight track. Then I scratch built a loco with scale thickness coupling rods (much thicker than the usual etched offerings). Ran beautifully on straight track but the side play on curves allowed the couplng rods to foul the valances. The straight test track has been replaced by one with a reverse curve.

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I bought a NuCast J6 at Doncaster this year and Tony Wright was kind enough to put it onto his test track. Despite the whitemetal chassis, with a clean and a little oil, it ran really nicely.

 

Took it home, then down to the club on the Monday night... ground to a halt as soon as it was off the straight. No sideplay on any axles, no cornering of any kind. That's the trouble with a short straight test track.

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This is exactly what it's all about for me. A model is rarely truly "finished", as there's always something more to try....

 

 

 

 

Aha!!! An excuse for Alcazar pops into my pistons........

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I need a multi-gauge one: 31.5, 28.08, 18.2 and 16.5. 18.83 might be handy too. I haven't accumulated enough spare rail to build it yet. Adding bends and twists adds to the mindbogglingness of working out how to get all five gauges on one length of track, and how to make it clear which pair of rails to use!!!

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  • 1 month later...

I need a multi-gauge one: 31.5, 28.08, 18.2 and 16.5. 18.83 might be handy too. I haven't accumulated enough spare rail to build it yet. Adding bends and twists adds to the mindbogglingness of working out how to get all five gauges on one length of track, and how to make it clear which pair of rails to use!!!

I built one some years ago. It had 9, 12, 14.2, 16.5, 18.2, 18.83, 21 and 32mm gauges. I'm still using and I can generally (but not always) find the one I want. I started with 9mm and worked outwards on each side. It often gets commented on at exhibitions. I've lost count of the number of times someone's suggested a matching set of points. Whilst it's only straight it's handy for checking quartering and gearboxes etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

One thought was to build the test track initially with the possibility to convert it to a scenic plank layout and/or at a later time into a layout

 

Bodmin General is a pleasant station to visit and could have possibilities as it is now or pre-preservation, I found an old OS map (40's?) I could copy for free then downloaded it into Templot

 

Bodmin1a.pdf

 

I just concentrated on the end of platform to the bridges section and to be quite honest I think quite a bit of compression would be preferable initially. For a test track either the engine shed area (minus a couple of the bottom tracks) or the junction area, though this may end up a bit wide at one end

 

Bodmin2a.pdf 

 

As for the engine shed area there are 3 options which I can think of

1/  As it was pre-preservation

2/ As it is in preservation with a double road shed and the 2 built in trap points

3/ Make a head shunt top right by either swapping the shed turnout to a double slip

 

Any thoughts on either the style of layout, size of turnouts (all B7's) of types of turnouts and crossings are most welcome

 

Sorry about adding attachments and not photos, but that is the only way I could up load the screen shots, if anyone could turn them into photos for others to view I would be very grateful

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