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Sutton's Locomotive Works class 24


Dan Griffin
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Looking at the above postings seems as though 24081 is the favoured loco at the moment....... so decided to be different and ordered D5000 - but then I would do having spent my teens living in south east London within striking distance of Hither Green shed :senile: .

 

At the time that D5000 and sisters were shedded at Hither Green wrote off and managed to get a permit to visit the shed ....... but never made it as it was bucketing down cats and dogs all that day and my parents would not allow me to get on my push bike and cycle from Mottingham down to  :cry: . Wonder how many D5000s I'd have copped if I had made that day :dontknow: .

 

Keith

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As someone who is just starting to learn about modern electronics in model railways, can someone explain what the Hall Sensor kit is? and do i need one? :)

 

I knew what one is but wasn't sure what they were using it for so I asked when I ordered one...

 

When I've come across Hall sensors before they have been used to trigger chuffs on DCC steam loco; a magnet being attached to the axle triggers the sensor. In the case of the 24 the Hall sensor is an after-market fitting which you'd need to solder in place. There are solder pints and wire runs designed in place but RE said it would require careful soldering. The idea is that you would bury a magnet at a specific point on your layout and as the loco passes over the magnet it would trigger a specific sound. At the moment it is programmed play "flange squeal", ideal for curves, but would be reprogrammable for, say, whistle.

 

I didn't order on as my shunting plank is too small and the club layout isn't really ready yet.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Luke

 

PS No, I didn't NEED a 24 but I'm sure I can justify running one somehow...

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You and there's the proof. :) I'm glad you've done the sound for these 24s - I love nearly all of your sound projects.

 

Nearly????

 

The slipping P2. Problem solved with an A4 project re-tuned.

 

You should have asked me about the P2, CV281 = 100 will prevent the slipping sound from playing.

 

Paul

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I knew what one is but wasn't sure what they were using it for so I asked when I ordered one...

 

When I've come across Hall sensors before they have been used to trigger chuffs on DCC steam loco; a magnet being attached to the axle triggers the sensor. In the case of the 24 the Hall sensor is an after-market fitting which you'd need to solder in place. There are solder pints and wire runs designed in place but RE said it would require careful soldering. The idea is that you would bury a magnet at a specific point on your layout and as the loco passes over the magnet it would trigger a specific sound. At the moment it is programmed play "flange squeal", ideal for curves, but would be reprogrammable for, say, whistle.

 

I didn't order on as my shunting plank is too small and the club layout isn't really ready yet.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Luke

 

PS No, I didn't NEED a 24 but I'm sure I can justify running one somehow...

Thank you for that Luke, that definitely helps, thats one extra I don't need and saves me a tenner :)

Edited by 37081LochLong
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I had a chat with Phil Sutton today and I think he is amazed at how well the secret that he was doing the Bo-Bo was kept. Top marks for having the goods ready for sale upon announcing the model.  

 

Looking forward to my D5000 arriving next week.

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Well, the main downside to having one of these is that it would make a lot of my other models (especially coaches or wagons for it to pull) look somewhat basic.....might stick out a bit too much on shed as well.

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Well, the main downside to having one of these is that it would make a lot of my other models (especially coaches or wagons for it to pull) look somewhat basic.....might stick out a bit too much on shed as well.

Hi Tim

 

While agreeing with you about it making other models look basic, I plan to run mine alongside my Hornby class 25 conversions. They may not look as good but I made them. :imsohappy:

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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Looking at the above postings seems as though 24081 is the favoured loco at the moment....... so decided to be different and ordered D5000 - but then I would do having spent my teens living in south east London within striking distance of Hither Green shed :senile: .

 

Keith

My preference would have been D5000 because plain rail blue diesels look very slab-sided but I have a D5000 from Invicta and I don't want to get rid of it or duplicate it. Installing a good sound project (now that there is one) is swirling around somewhere in my brain, though.

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Hi Tim

 

While agreeing with you about it making other models look basic, I plan to run mine alongside my Hornby class 25 conversions. They may not look as good but I made them. :imsohappy:

 

....just squint a bit Clive....it'll help make them look equal.

 

Dave

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I have decided that I'm not going to buy this model. I have also decided, on looking at a few Hasegawa and Tamiya aircraft kits which I still have in stock, that my previous post concerning the limitations of injection moulding and the effect this might have had on the side grills is probably wrong too.

 

I have received an email which conveys the information that a straightforward DC model in P4 will cost over £200, substantially over £200. And yet for a all its virtues the side grills are wrong, dead wrong, and it's an error which is always going to be very visible. This mistake turns what could have been a superb model, well worth the price, into yet another mediocre effort not worth anything much.

 

I'm going to pass on this one.

 

Regards

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I have decided that I'm not going to buy this model. I have also decided, on looking at a few Hasegawa and Tamiya aircraft kits which I still have in stock, that my previous post concerning the limitations of injection moulding and the effect this might have had on the side grills is probably wrong too.

 

I have received an email which conveys the information that a straightforward DC model in P4 will cost over £200, substantially over £200. And yet for a all its virtues the side grills are wrong, dead wrong, and it's an error which is always going to be very visible. This mistake turns what could have been a superb model, well worth the price, into yet another mediocre effort not worth anything much.

 

I'm going to pass on this one.

 

Regards

 

It won't change your mind, but I'm not sure which price list you are looking at, as mine says £175 + £20 for P4 wheels.  Oh yes, plus £8 postage which takes it to £203.....

 

Substantially over £200?

 

post-6950-0-92107500-1449332105_thumb.png

Edited by gordon s
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I was in Tesco this morning and if anyone is interested I chose not to buy a can of spam.

 

At £2.03 it was SUBSTANTIALLY over £2 and it is not worth it.

 

Why am I telling you this? I have no idea. I thought you all might be interested. I am not sure WHY I thought that, but I did.

 

 

If anyone is particularly interested in everything that I saw in Tesco but didn't buy then please let me know and we can start a thread for it.

Edited by Derekstuart
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I have decided that I'm not going to buy this model. I have also decided, on looking at a few Hasegawa and Tamiya aircraft kits which I still have in stock, that my previous post concerning the limitations of injection moulding and the effect this might have had on the side grills is probably wrong too.

 

I have received an email which conveys the information that a straightforward DC model in P4 will cost over £200, substantially over £200. And yet for a all its virtues the side grills are wrong, dead wrong, and it's an error which is always going to be very visible. This mistake turns what could have been a superb model, well worth the price, into yet another mediocre effort not worth anything much.

 

I'm going to pass on this one.

 

Regards

 

I'm sure that most modellers/collectors will be happy to pay £180 plus postage up to mid December and £203 after that time for a P4 RTR model of this calibre.

 

I've carried out the 5min P4 conversion on mine this afternoon....the axles are 2mm dia. as per the Ultrascale conversion for the Bachmann 24 but the correct tyre rim thickness on the SLW version explains why their loco looks better in this area...

 

post-7795-0-81659500-1449334480.jpg

 

post-7795-0-55265600-1449334404.jpg

 

...scale tyre rim thicknesses give the edge to the SLW version over the Ultrascale (silver tyre)....

post-7795-0-42222600-1449334337.jpg

 

post-7795-0-12062300-1449334352.jpg

 

Hope that lots of you have a SLW 24 under your tree this year

post-7795-0-94418100-1449334373.jpg

 

More pictures & info on the Scalefour Society forum for those interested, under RTR P4

 

Dave

Edited by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71
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It won't change your mind, but I'm not sure which price list you are looking at, as mine says £175 + £20 for P4 wheels.  Oh yes, plus £8 postage which takes it to £203.....

 

Substantially over £200?

 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2015-12-05 at 16.12.27.png

And if a previous customer ? it would have cost £188 posted

before Dec 14th

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...I've seen factory fitted mentioned somewhere Derek and I have no reason to suppose otherwise. My loco was OO originally so I needed to fit the SLW P4 wheelsets. The pictures are just to show potential customers different areas of the loco.

 

Dave

Edited by Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71
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Well then, I got the email and now I will order one, then review it as most on here can't say they co-own the real thing as I do. There will be no rivet counting or bitching about little things. Just a honest view of a model by a loco owner.

Lets remember that this model is a bit of fresh air the a stale state of affairs regarding type two models at the moment and hopefully will lead to other models by the people who have risked there money on this project

 

We bitch that there is nothing new and when somebody does, guess what, we bitch

Lets just see

 

Robin

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