RMweb Gold Ramblin Rich Posted January 29, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2017 Really like the look of the 'other end' bridge. I assume you've used the Wills brick arches as well? I'm a bit concerned about the road when it leaves the bridge to go over the level crossing; won't change in slope be a bit abrupt? I know you don't have enough width to ease it out further, so it might need some disguising? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I have just read, in the Hornby Peckett thread, that Digitrains have fitted a Peckett with sound. So that's a definite for this layout being DCC. Hi Dave, That model is mine. Here's short clip. The step by step photoguide will be in Hornby Magazine Issue 117. Paul 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osgood Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Great sound there, Paul! Good job you got it recorded before they spoiled your fun by re-metalling the con rods Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Hi Dave, That model is mine. Here's short clip. The step by step photoguide will be in Hornby Magazine Issue 117. Paul Hi Paul, I already have several of my O gauge locos fitted with your Peckett sounds - they're excellent in both the sounds and the way the decoders are set up (acceleration/deceleration and the brake button). I spoke to Jeremy, from Digitrains, yesterday and asked him about the sound-fitted Hornby Peckett that I had heard about. From what he said I gathered that he had fitted the equipment, so is this a completely different loco to yours? Jeremy said that he had great difficulty in getting it to work reliably and had to fit extra pickups direct to the rail heads, trailing behind the wheels. He said that fitting sound to these locos would not be a service he would offer as it would cost a lot of money and wouldn't work. If we are talking about two different locos (and I don't see any extra pickups on the one in your video) how does yours do in the real world; i.e on track and points - not simply on a rolling road? P.S. Please check your PMs - I sent a PM to you, about Ruston 88DS sound, on the 9th of December and it remains unread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Really like the look of the 'other end' bridge. I assume you've used the Wills brick arches as well? I'm a bit concerned about the road when it leaves the bridge to go over the level crossing; won't change in slope be a bit abrupt? I know you don't have enough width to ease it out further, so it might need some disguising? Hi Rich, You're right about the slope but it's not a main road or anything. It's just going to be a byway that was built before motor vehicles were invented so I don't think a change of slope would much affect a horse and cart as they had far better approach and departure angles than any motor car. The road bed is at the height of the top row of the brick arch and once the level crossing is built up it won't be too bad anyway. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ramblin Rich Posted January 29, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2017 Fair enough. I do like how you made the bridge though. Can I ask, what did you use to cut the arch shapes into the stone effect sheets? If you're using the Wills sheets, I find them very tough to cut; I have some to make a 3 arch bridge but haven't plucked up the courage/gained the necessary skills* to make a start yet! * delete as appropriate.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 29, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) Rich, I added a curved arch to the end wall on the WC building for BCB. I used a compass to mark the arc, then gently chiselled the Wills sheet. I did a similar process for the door roller arc in the WE Millward yard floor. Stu Edit: See here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65175-black-country-blues-stubby47-builds-warners-ltd/?p=904032 Edited January 29, 2017 by Stubby47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Fair enough. I do like how you made the bridge though. Can I ask, what did you use to cut the arch shapes into the stone effect sheets? If you're using the Wills sheets, I find them very tough to cut; I have some to make a 3 arch bridge but haven't plucked up the courage/gained the necessary skills* to make a start yet! * delete as appropriate.... I placed the arch over the back of the sheet, drew around it with a ball point pen and made the cut using a Stanley knife. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 This evening I have been ballasting. I've never liked the model ballast that the likes of Woodland Scenics make because it floats on watered down PVA glue (something to do with it being made out of ground-up nut shells?) and other makes, whilst being made of something heavier tend to have granules that are too large for the typical industrial line. So I've used beach sand. I collected a Chinese takeaway container full of the stuff, about 17 or 18 years ago, to be used as gravel on an O-14 gravel pit layout. I've still got about half a pound of it so I thought I may as well try it as ballast on here. Pics to follow (assuming it doesn't all go disastrously wrong). Obviously it will have to be painted but with an airbrush it will be easy to do. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 This evening I have been ballasting. I've never liked the model ballast that the likes of Woodland Scenics make because it floats on watered down PVA glue (something to do with it being made out of ground-up nut shells?) and other makes, whilst being made of something heavier tend to have granules that are too large for the typical industrial line. So I've used beach sand. I collected a Chinese takeaway container full of the stuff, about 17 or 18 years ago, to be used as gravel on an O-14 gravel pit layout. I've still got about half a pound of it so I thought I may as well try it as ballast on here. Pics to follow (assuming it doesn't all go disastrously wrong). Obviously it will have to be painted but with an airbrush it will be easy to do. All the best with the experiment Dave, I used some Builders sand once and it seemed fairly good, so on a Holiday to Norfolk I filled an Ice Cream tub, but when used it went all mushy, It may of course depend on which sand from which Beach and which part of the Country, OR the fact that I over did the Water side of the PVA mix that day. BTW don't tell the Norfolkians that I pinched some Sand or they'll bill me for it, hahha. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Hi Paul, I already have several of my O gauge locos fitted with your Peckett sounds - they're excellent in both the sounds and the way the decoders are set up (acceleration/deceleration and the brake button). I spoke to Jeremy, from Digitrains, yesterday and asked him about the sound-fitted Hornby Peckett that I had heard about. From what he said I gathered that he had fitted the equipment, so is this a completely different loco to yours? Jeremy said that he had great difficulty in getting it to work reliably and had to fit extra pickups direct to the rail heads, trailing behind the wheels. He said that fitting sound to these locos would not be a service he would offer as it would cost a lot of money and wouldn't work. If we are talking about two different locos (and I don't see any extra pickups on the one in your video) how does yours do in the real world; i.e on track and points - not simply on a rolling road? P.S. Please check your PMs - I sent a PM to you, about Ruston 88DS sound, on the 9th of December and it remains unread. Hi David, Thank you for your positive endorsement of my Peckett sound project. The model seen at Digitrains was my H&P liveried Peckett. The Green one in the video belongs to the editor of Hornby Magazine, Mike Wild, who commissioned the installation for the Step by Step Guide in the next issue (117) of HM. Both models are featured in the HM article, so you will understand if I don't start pre-empting what the contents are. You can be sure that it will be as interesting and informative as usual. The green one is now running reliably on one of the Hornby Magazine exhibition layouts in exactly the same condition as it was when I shot the video (in fact, it went straight into its box afterwards and in the post to Mike). I had a 'phone conversation yesterday during which Mike confirmed that the running was exceptionally smooth and reliable even over pointwork, which coincides with my own experience in the short time it was with me. Sorry about the 88 question, I get a lot of PMs and this one does not show in the list so I've missed it. I don't have a sound project for the Ruston 88DS and my plans to create one have be postponed for the foreseeable future. Kind regards, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 on a Holiday to Norfolk I filled an Ice Cream tub, but when used it went all mushy, It may of course depend on which sand from which Beach and which part of the Country, Or if it was really sand. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Ballast painted. Some tufts of weeds and grass will be added later. Edited December 23, 2022 by Ruston 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) More grass, bushes, hedgerow and gorse appearing. Buffer stop, made from plywood and rail off-cuts added. Peckett with GWR 20-ton all-steel coal wagon. Edited December 23, 2022 by Ruston 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) Today has been all about fitting Dingham couplings to all the stock and weathering the wagons. The instructions for the electro-magnetic uncouplers that I am using state that they work on 9v-12v, so I fitted a 9v battery in the control panel. This obviously doesn't have enough power to work the uncouplers (or a wire has come undone somewhere) as none of the magnets are working so I haven't been able to test the couplings in use. That gunpowder van was bought on the strength of it being advertised as GW, it even says as much on the box, but with the number having a W prefix, does that not mean it's actually BR era numbering? Edited December 23, 2022 by Ruston 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osgood Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 I think the skilful weathering of those wagons would easily withstand scrutiny of a few close-up shots! A wonderful mix of liveries. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 In the dark recesses of the garage I found a 12v sealed gel battery that I once used to power a halogen lamp for mine-exploring, before I bought a fancy lightweight and powerful LED cap lamp. I wired this up to the railway and have tested the coupling system. Some wagons still need their couplings tweaking but on the whole the system works and, of course, looks better than those awful tension lock things. In other news, I have been putting together a Ratio coach kit for the paddy train. Once this is done I will have nearly all the rolling stock required. A couple of railway company open wagons should complete it. I'm quite pleased to have built up a fleet of wagons from shops, ebay and swaps without having paid full price for any of them. The next big thing is to make some legs for the layout to stand on so it can be set up in the house with the fiddle yard bolted on so the tracks in the yard can be laid and aligned. I also need to get it off the bench so I can crack on with finishing a trio of O gauge Hudson tipping wagons that I am building as part of a deal for an O gauge Hunslet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 5, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2017 How easy were the Dinghams to fit ? Was there much surgery needed to remove the NEM pockets ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 46444 Posted February 5, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2017 Hi Dave, Brilliant progress and I think Nant Y Myndd captures the prototype nicely. Regarding gunpowder vans have you seen the Parkside kit for the Z2 Gunpowder Van which is a nice build. Here's two of mine: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1338/entry-12168-mr-fawkes-receives-a-delivery-parkside-z2-gunpowder-van-build-and-a-few-other-bits/ Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2017 Considering it all started from the lovely weathered Peckett it's looking great Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hi Dave, Brilliant progress and I think Nant Y Myndd captures the prototype nicely. Regarding gunpowder vans have you seen the Parkside kit for the Z2 Gunpowder Van which is a nice build. Here's two of mine: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1338/entry-12168-mr-fawkes-receives-a-delivery-parkside-z2-gunpowder-van-build-and-a-few-other-bits/ Cheers, Mark They look very good. Do the kits come with transfers for the lettering? I guess the one I bought is BR but I'll keep it anyway as the plan is to be able to update the period to BR, using the 16-ton minerals from River Don Works and also by acquiring one of the next batch of black Pecketts that have the more modern safety valves and dome. How easy were the Dinghams to fit ? Was there much surgery needed to remove the NEM pockets ? Making up the couplings gets easier after the 3rd or 4th and you've got a method of working sorted out. According to the instructions the pivot wire should be soldered in to the hook and the arm fitted on to the pivot by folding up each side of the arm. I decided that trying to solder something so tiny, and attempting to fold up fragile etches and jiggle a wire through them was going to result in burnt fingers, much annoyance, and the whole lot being thrown out of the shed door! Instead I pushed the wire through the arm's holes and hook, the wire being crimped at one end, cut off at the other and crimped at that end. It seems to have worked. The coupling pockets vary from wagon to wagon. The sole Hornby wagaon didn't have pockets and chunks of plastic had to be cut and filed to remove the mount. The Dapol wagons had pockets that unscrewed but left a moulded block on the underside of the wagon, which was filed down. The earlier Bachmann wagons also left a block but it wasn't very deep and was between the wheels, so I left it alone. The newer Bachmanns have a flush surface once the pocket is unscrewed. The Oxford wagons were the worst. The coupling pulls out leaving a block that is deep and moulded in to the underside of the wagon frame. Unlike the others the frame is very well glued in and could not be removed so I had to score around the block until it could be pulled off using a pair of pliers. The Dinghams come with the plates that fit on the headstocks around the coupling hooks but I only used these on some of the wagons where the cosmeticplastic hook didn't pull out of the headstock and had to be cut off and filed down. To actually fit the new couplings I cut a slit in the headstocks using a razor saw and then pushed the couplings in and secured them with superglue behind the headstock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2017 Thanks for that explanation. I might select a few (new Bachmann !!) wagons and give the Dinghams a try. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 46444 Posted February 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2017 They look very good. Do the kits come with transfers for the lettering? Hi Dave, You have to source the transfers yourself. These ones came from Fox who do sets for several periods, Mine are 1940's. Here's the link to the Fox site. https://fox-transfers.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=gwr+gunpowder+vans (Not all 4mm scale). The numbers and some other lettering from HMRS Pressfix. HTH. Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) The Ratio kit of an LNWR coach, for the Paddy Train, is finished. Thankfully it is supposed to be scruffy, old and somewhat neglected because I don't think I could produce the finish of a new coach. It easily fits in the headshunt, with loco and there may be space for a 4-wheeled coach too. If anyone has a Ratio GWR 4-wheeled coach could they please measure the length over buffers so I can see if I can fit it? Edited December 23, 2022 by Ruston 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 (edited) All looking very nice Dave - but really should have a brake van of some sort. (Edit - or is that a brake compartment where the ducket is? If so - just ignore me.....) The Ratio brake coaches and the compartment ones are slightly different lengths I think. I'll have a dig around to find mine - but don't let this stop anyone else from helping out! BTW, those PO wagons look a lot different to when I last saw them! So does the Barclay....................... Edited February 9, 2017 by 5050 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now