(ABANDONED PROJECT) Trewithen.

[Andrew P]

That's the sort of stuff you want. I got mine from a fellow in Belgium but his source of supply dried up and he has also retired. C&L used to sell it but again there has been no stock for a long time.

 

I wrote an article on memory wire signals for the BRMA journal The Clearing House back in 2009. It's way too big to attach here (about 2 Mb PDF) but if anyone is seriously interested then PM me with your email address and I'll send you a copy. Caveat - it is written in the context of Australian electronic parts suppliers, one of whom is no longer in business, but the general principles will still apply.

 

Andy, the memory wire actually provides the actuating force. When you pass a current through it, it contracts. When you turn the current off, it expands back to its original length. A light spring keeps this all under control. You don't need a point motor, solenoid, servo, or anything.

 

When you're ready, PM me and I'll send you the article.

 

I bought a memory wire starter kit some years ago, but still haven't got round to trying it! Not sure if I ever will now, so it could be available.

 

I don't know. I think it just needs an on-off switch. I can't check at the moment, as I'm lazing about on a Caravan Club site 120 miles from home this week!

 

Based upon St Enedoc's description, no. Peco switches are passing-contact, i.e.there is little more than a pulse of power, adequate for their snap motors. But John speaks of the wire contracting while current flows, so if the power goes off, the wire would expand again. You need a switch which is simply on or off and latches in both positions. Not expensive.

 

So guys, Now that I think I understand the principals of the Memory Wire, i.e. Switch on - the wire bends - switch off and it straightens out.

 

My question is this; if left on, will it overheat / keep bending / strain the Signal Mechanism?

[gismorail]

hi Andy 

You can use the Peco passing contact switch for the Mega points signal bonce no problem as it acts like a push to make button !

[Andrew P]

hi Andy 

You can use the Peco passing contact switch for the Mega points signal bonce no problem as it acts like a push to make button !

Thanks Martin, I've seen Mega Points at many Shows, including Nottingham a couple of weeks ago, but never stopped to look as I thought they were ONLY DCC operated. I now need to do some research down that road as well.

 

I see there at Derby in a few weeks so may need a proper look and maybe a purchase.

Edited March 27, 2017 by Andrew P

[St Enodoc]

I don't know. I think it just needs an on-off switch. I can't check at the moment, as I'm lazing about on a Caravan Club site 120 miles from home this week!

Yes, just an ordinary on-off switch.

[St Enodoc]

So guys, Now that I think I understand the principals of the Memory Wire, i.e. Switch on - the wire bends - switch off and it straightens out.

 

My question is this; if left on, will it overheat / keep bending / strain the Signal Mechanism?

Almost. The wire just shortens and lengthens - it doesn't bend. If left on it will just stay in its "short" length. It will get warm but not hot. When it's switched off it extends to its original "long" length as it cools down. Takes about 1 second for each.

[Andrew P]

hi Andy 

You can use the Peco passing contact switch for the Mega points signal bonce no problem as it acts like a push to make button !

 

Thanks Martin, I've seen Mega Points at many Shows, including Nottingham a couple of weeks ago, but never stopped to look as I thought they were ONLY DCC operated. I now need to do some research down that road as well.

 

I see there at Derby in a few weeks so may need a proper look and maybe a purchase.

 

Almost. The wire just shortens and lengthens - it doesn't bend. If left on it will just stay in its "short" length. It will get warm but not hot. When it's switched off it extends to its original "long" length as it cools down. Takes about 1 second for each.

I've just watched the Mega Points Signal set up Video,        WOW is that complicated or what?  seems like a lot of faffing about for just a simple up / down. I ain't to worried about the Bounce, even though its very nice, I just want a SIMPLE two wires from a Motor / ? to a Peco 2 way or on / off Switch.

[Andrew P]

BG John

Posted Today, 11:51

I bought a memory wire starter kit some years ago, but still haven't got round to trying it! Not sure if I ever will now, so it could be available.

 

Almost. The wire just shortens and lengthens - it doesn't bend. If left on it will just stay in its "short" length. It will get warm but not hot. When it's switched off it extends to its original "long" length as it cools down. Takes about 1 second for each.

O.K. Guys, I've just done a search for Memory Wire Starter Kit and got a whole load of Jewellery Bracelets etc.

 

So the next question is; How is a piece of Memory Wire connected to 12V DC and then a Switch? (I have done a quick Google search to no avail).

Edited March 27, 2017 by Andrew P

[Sasquatch]

The memory wire idea sounds great Andy. I wouldn't connect it directly to the Ratio mechanism though.
If you need some pointers regards assembly of the signal I'll happily help. One tip is to use Peco track pins as pivots for the cranks.

Will you be illuminating the lamps

 

For the dummy signal control wires you can get black beading wire as fine as .02mm. I'm planning to use it on my layouts along with Evergreen siding for the posts. Marked and drilled out to take the wires and cut out after with the Stanley knife. I believe there are white metal posts available but good luck attaching the wires to them.

Am loving your new loco stable BTW and am hoping they don't all sell before I can raise some dosh. (Mrs. S's. car blew a head gasket, ouch!)

 

Regards Shaun.

[Andrew P]

The memory wire idea sounds great Andy. I wouldn't connect it directly to the Ratio mechanism though.

If you need some pointers regards assembly of the signal I'll happily help. One tip is to use Peco track pins as pivots for the cranks.

Will you be illuminating the lamps

 

For the dummy signal control wires you can get black beading wire as fine as .02mm. I'm planning to use it on my layouts along with Evergreen siding for the posts. Marked and drilled out to take the wires and cut out after with the Stanley knife. I believe there are white metal posts available but good luck attaching the wires to them.

 

Am loving your new loco stable BTW and am hoping they don't all sell before I can raise some dosh. (Mrs. S's. car blew a head gasket, ouch!)

 

Regards Shaun.

Thanks Shaun, I need to work  out how it works, then I can look at how it can be connected to the Signal Wire. The most definitely won't be illuminated.

 

Thanks for the idea on the Signal Control Wire.

 

The New Stud is looking good, and I can't wait to see them sitting in some proper scenery. 

 

Sorry to hear about the Car mate.

[St Enodoc]

BG John

Posted Today, 11:51

I bought a memory wire starter kit some years ago, but still haven't got round to trying it! Not sure if I ever will now, so it could be available.

 

O.K. Guys, I've just done a search for Memory Wire Starter Kit and got a whole load of Jewellery Bracelets etc.

 

So the next question is; How is a piece of Memory Wire connected to 12V DC and then a Switch? (I have done a quick Google search to no avail).

Andy, it's too complicated to cover in a short post here. PM me with your email address and I'll send you the article.

[BG John]

The kit comes with a variety of cranks and springs, but I can't remember exactly what.

[Andrew P]

Andy, it's too complicated to cover in a short post here. PM me with your email address and I'll send you the article.

That sounds worrying, PM sent mate.

 

Cheers.

[gismorail]

hi Andy 

 

Check out Heathcote Electrics website he also does servo operated signal adaptors. He is only down the A50 from your at Cheadle too

Edited March 27, 2017 by gismorail

[tender]

Hi Andy, Sig-Na-Trak (the people who made your ACE controller) do a single servo controller which can operate a semaphore signal (with or without bounce). It's just a single channel so a lot cheaper than the Megapoints controller (12 channel) if you only need to control one or a few signals. I use one for the semaphore signal on CQ, works on DC or DCC. Part no. IMP digital servo Driver DSI1001

 

https://www.signatrak.co.uk/products/layout-automation-and-accessory-control/dsi1001-imp

[Sasquatch]

You know the levers that come with the kit are OK. Low tech. easily replaced if need be and there's something about doing it more prototypically that I can't quite put my finger on. They have worked for me over the years!

 

Regards Shaun.

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

How about just operating the signals by hand from a lever frame?  No electrics.

[Andrew P]

hi Andy 

 

Check out Heathcote Electrics website he also does servo operated signal adaptors. He is only down the A50 from your at Cheadle too

Thanks Martin, well worth checking out.

 

Cheers.

Hi Andy, Sig-Na-Trak (the people who made your ACE controller) do a single servo controller which can operate a semaphore signal (with or without bounce). It's just a single channel so a lot cheaper than the Megapoints controller (12 channel) if you only need to control one or a few signals. I use one for the semaphore signal on CQ, works on DC or DCC. Part no. IMP digital servo Driver DSI1001

 

https://www.signatrak.co.uk/products/layout-automation-and-accessory-control/dsi1001-imp

Thanks Ray, I'll take a look at that as well.

 

Cheers.

[Andrew P]

You know the levers that come with the kit are OK. Low tech. easily replaced if need be and there's something about doing it more prototypically that I can't quite put my finger on. They have worked for me over the years!

 

Regards Shaun.

Hi Shaun, Yes I like the Peco Switch Frame for that very reason, it just feels so right somehow.

[Andrew P]

How about just operating the signals by hand from a lever frame?  No electrics.

It may still come to that Dr, but I really want to be able to do it from sitting on my perch, (getting lazy, its only 4 ft away, hahah) and also all the Signals would be worked in a sequence along with the Point Levers, i.e. Set the Point, next lever set the Signal.

 

As I say, it may still come to that, it all depends on whether I can build the Signal so that it actually works. 

[Andrew P]

Nice little job for this morning, I've made up the River Bridge, it's 2 x Wills Kits and an extra Girder underneath for strength and depth.

 

 

 

 

 

[gismorail]

Like the bridge andy it's got atmosphere already or is that my imagination    .....Looks like the start of a master piece and you've only started scribbling on the canvas 

[danstercivicman]

Looks great! This is gonna be an awesome layout!

[Ian Smith]

Thanks Shaun, I need to work  out how it works, then I can look at how it can be connected to the Signal Wire. The most definitely won't be illuminated.

 

Thanks for the idea on the Signal Control Wire.

 

The New Stud is looking good, and I can't wait to see them sitting in some proper scenery. 

 

Sorry to hear about the Car mate.

 

 

That sounds worrying, PM sent mate.

 

Cheers.

 

Andy,

 

I'm using memory wire to control the points and signals on my 2FS layout Modbury.  I documented what I was doing some time ago in one of my blog entries : http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1009/entry-14379-modbury-trackwork-4-turnout-operation/, there may be some more info on my website.

 

Basically, the memory wire will contract as it gets hot, typically producing about a 3% reduction in length.  To get it hot, voltage is applied across it (the circuit needs to draw about 0.3amps in my experience).  To do this I used a 5 volt regulator to step down from the 12 volts that I supply the layout with and a couple of 1/2 watt resistors to dissipate the heat generated in this step down.  To return the memory wire to its normal state when it cools (after removing the juice) a spring is needed - probably more for the signal/point actuator than to stretch the wire! 

 

Hope that is helpful,

Ian

[Andrew P]

Like the bridge andy it's got atmosphere already or is that my imagination    .....Looks like the start of a master piece and you've only started scribbling on the canvas 

 

Looks great! This is gonna be an awesome layout!

Thanks Martin and Dan, I've a feeling about this one. Kevin / Little Muddle mentioned Barry Norman and his book in one of his Post's, and I remember his Layouts from many years ago. and  with some wonderful Trees and natural  surroundings, so that is what I'm aiming for this time.

[Andrew P]

 

 

Andy,

 

I'm using memory wire to control the points and signals on my 2FS layout Modbury.  I documented what I was doing some time ago in one of my blog entries : http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1009/entry-14379-modbury-trackwork-4-turnout-operation/, there may be some more info on my website.

 

Basically, the memory wire will contract as it gets hot, typically producing about a 3% reduction in length.  To get it hot, voltage is applied across it (the circuit needs to draw about 0.3amps in my experience).  To do this I used a 5 volt regulator to step down from the 12 volts that I supply the layout with and a couple of 1/2 watt resistors to dissipate the heat generated in this step down.  To return the memory wire to its normal state when it cools (after removing the juice) a spring is needed - probably more for the signal/point actuator than to stretch the wire! 

 

Hope that is helpful,

Ian

 

Thanks Ian, Helpful yes, understanding it no, I don't understand electronics at all I'm afraid Ian, so talk of 5 Volt regulators and  1/2 watt resistors has me baffled, but I need to understand it some more. I don't even know how to find out a circuit draw of 0.3 amps, so at the moment I am confused.

 

Please don't get me wrong, your post is appreciated, confusing, but still appreciated.

 

Thanks.