RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 24, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 24, 2018 Cap’n can you explain why you need the support beams and don’t simply put the baseboardson trestles? Puzzled of Calne Well, the thinking was that not having the support beams could put too much stress on the board joint between the main scenic board and the fiddle yard and would also ensure that both sit nice and level. It occurred to me when I was posting the photos that I might get asked this and I could certainly have tried it without the beams, but decided to play it safe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 24, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 24, 2018 No I agree. I would use support beams. The base boards are not under any stress and it will be a lot easier to assemble by sliding the boards on the beams. I must say they look fab. I am looking to revise my rather crude jobbies. I may well pinch a few ideas if that is okay. Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevejjjexcov Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 I agree with the captain and rob the beams are necessary to distribute the baseboard weight and prevent stress and strains on the join of the baseboards. Track laying soon Capt'n? Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 25, 2018 I agree with the captain and rob the beams are necessary to distribute the baseboard weight and prevent stress and strains on the join of the baseboards. Track laying soon Capt'n? Steve I'd do a bit of trial and error with the trestle positions to minimise the stresses on the pinned hinge joints on the subframes themselves too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 I'd do a bit of trial and error with the trestle positions to minimise the stresses on the pinned hinge joints on the subframes themselves too.I think the screws into the wood are more likely weak points than shearing the pins. It's fairly easy to minimise the strain though by placing the trestles approximately under the CofG of each baseboard. You'd have to wait until the boards are finished though and stick a long dowel under each one and move it along until the board just about balances on it. I did a similar idea with Lulworth where the two outer boards are supported centrally and the middle board just stops them tipping either way Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 I place my trestles roughly four feet apart and let the beams over hang. Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 The supporting beams, which rest on the trestles, are made of 9mm birch ply and are hinged for storage. Here they are, still folded: 20180724_184507.jpg When you unfold them, they look like this: 20180724_184620.jpg That is a very ingenious space saving system Cap'n. For the record, an alternative method that we employ on Balcombe (admittedly a tad bigger that BS!) is 2m lengths of 25mm² mild steel tube. We did investigate fancy methods of fitting them to the trestles but ended up doing it with countersunk M6 set screws just dropped in through the tube (with countersunk holes) and trestle top cross pieces. (KISS!) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Young Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Very nice woodwork there Captain. Particularly like your support beats, much neater and more compact than ones I’ve succeeded in making in the past! Cheers, Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 25, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 The beams are of 12mm birch ply, precision-cut to size by TimberCut in Marsh Barton, Exeter. Where they are hinged, I've doubled up on the thickness of ply, to enable longer screws to be used to hold the main hinges in place. Thanks for the suggestions about centre of gravity, last night was the first time it had been set up, and I will look further into this and probably mark the beams with the optimum location for the trestles in future. The layout itself is 7' long, including fiddle yard, so the 8' beams give me 6" at either end. There will probably be some kind of cloth covering the support beams and trestles at shows, so the small space at either end could be used for layout information etc. Track laying soon Capt'n? Yes indeed, that's the idea! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 Morning CK. From my own experience(!), you may need to consider some kind of 'positive stop' on the rearmost beam for the rear of BS to abutt against. This is one mod I am considering. The issue I have is the differing baseboard widths.. Rob. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 (edited) I've liked the idea of beams you just plonk the boards onto for a while and the fold flat solution is just what I needed to solve the last barrier. Simple ideas that assemble so fast. Edited July 25, 2018 by PaulRhB 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 25, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 I've laid the first piece of track - the tandem turnout. All other track on the layout will flow from this. More anon. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 81C Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 I've laid the first piece of track - the tandem turnout. All other track on the layout will flow from this. More anon. I bet that made the eyes water. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 I bet that made the eyes water. Made mine water, and I'm at the other end of the country... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 25, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 I now find that I am significantly short of toggle switches for the control panel. I will purchase some. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 What do you need? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 25, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 What do you need? SPST (ie. 'on/off' ones) - about 8 and DPST (again, 'on/off' ones, only for two wires), about 4 of them. This may vary, of course, once my non-electrically minded brain realises other things about the wiring that might be necessary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 I have some quite large 'old skool' toggle switches recovered by Great Aunt Bertha from a crashed Hawker Hart in the Sudan in 1932. They remind me of her, Robust construction, well presented and not easy to flick over. I shall dig them out. Rob. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ramblin Rich Posted July 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2018 Those subframes are a great idea as others have sad and 'save' a set of legs. I remember Iain Rice had a similar scheme sketched in one of his layout design books called Ulysses - Universal Layout Support System or something like! You could consider some form of tabs or slots in the layout frame that would engage onto the subframe to prevent movement. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanS Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 In these modern times should we not be saying 'bi-gauge' instead of 'dual gauge'? Just saying....... I believe the proper term is gauge-fluid Brendan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted July 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 26, 2018 I now find that I am significantly short of toggle switches for the control panel. I will purchase some. Rapid Online offer a very good service and are very reasonable cost wise. https://www.rapidonline.com/ No connection, just a very satisfied customer. If you order this morning, there's a good chance you could have them by Saturday. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted July 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 26, 2018 Rapid Online offer a very good service and are very reasonable cost wise. https://www.rapidonline.com/ No connection, just a very satisfied customer. If you order this morning, there's a good chance you could have them by Saturday. That's no good then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted July 27, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2018 No, no and thrice no to a third Peckett! The directors of the Vale of Radnor Light Railway have distinctly said that they cannot justify the second one, let alone a third. Get on with more track laying, you idle blighter and stop worrying about Pecketts! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ramblin Rich Posted July 27, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2018 You could approach a different loco builder, but you might need to borrow money from Barclays Bank 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Just been looking at your 'Planet' in MRJ. Very nice bit of work Tim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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