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The Circle and the Stores (T-CATS)


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Looking at the wiring diagram, I can save 3 wires in the cable by linking the common returns for the Dinghams on the baseboard, rather than on the panel.

 

This will leave space for other electrical items to be controlled from the panel...

Edited by Stubby47
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18 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

Looking at the wiring diagram, I can save 3 wires in the cable by linking the common returns for the Dinghams on the baseboard, rather than on the panel.

 

This will leave space for other electrical items to be controlled from the panel...

Don't let Morty see your common returns...

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49 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Common returns are OK. The advice from the geezer who designed the Gaugemaster range, and my former boss, was not to use common return that links two power sources. 

That didn't take you long, did it?

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Having applied the changes to the panel diagram, I've also included moving the isolation section to the upper siding.

 

wiring_diagram.png.662e70dfb8259c5f4982bf2b7109f46d.png

 

Links number 6,7,8,9 are now free for other things. 

19 & 20 are for a 12v dc feed to the servos, if required. 

18 & 25 are still spare.

 

The cable connections are now:

 

baseboard_connections.png.1749ac0b69bd4bf66ac25d7519eb7b14.png

Edited by Stubby47
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A bit more progress last night, some cork laid and I've made a start on the lead-in bridge.

 

20190925_202414.jpg.1ec9dffb70954652c66b308c3b7b66ed.jpg

 

I want this to be a skeletal structure which lets the light through to the track below,  hence the lack of traditional sleepers. 

 

I also drilled holes for the Dinghams and realise I need to find some longer bolts, as the ones I cut for the previous layout are now too short.

Edited by Stubby47
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3 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

A bit more progress last night, some cork laid and I've made a start on the lead-in bridge.

 

20190925_202414.jpg.1ec9dffb70954652c66b308c3b7b66ed.jpg

 

I want this to be a skeletal structure which lets the light through to the track below,  hence the lack of traditional sleepers. 

 

I also drilled holes for the Dinghams and realise I need to find some longer bolts, as the ones I cut for the previous layout are now too short.

There's skeletal and there's skeletal...

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Ooooh :)

20190926_131748.jpg.354a618590ca23222fc9def8d95be163.jpg

 

The flat wagon is detachable and there are three supplied couplings, plus coupling blanking plates for the shunter.

 

Might need to have a play tonight.

Edited by Stubby47
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More RCA* sockets have arrived today, so I can add them to the sides of the control panel for the incoming supplies.

 

*RCA plugs are the red/yellow/white ones on the back of your tv set. Maplin sold them and I bought a few plug/socket combinations, but needed more.

Edited by Stubby47
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Morning Stubbers and thanks a flippin' lot. 

 

No intention of acquiring one of these pesky little blighters but on seeing pictures of yours it has been elevated to the 'want one' list..........

 

Rob  

9ea7cab64f5df0b801c1be5ce47efc58.jpg

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1 hour ago, NHY 581 said:

Morning Stubbers and thanks a flippin' lot. 

 

No intention of acquiring one of these pesky little blighters but on seeing pictures of yours it has been elevated to the 'want one' list..........

 

Rob  

9ea7cab64f5df0b801c1be5ce47efc58.jpg

 

I've only one thing to say - Peckett !

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2 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

 

I've only one thing to say - Peckett !

 

 

Yep. You need an 0.4.0 to go with the 0.6.0................

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On 27/09/2019 at 22:14, Stubby47 said:

More RCA* sockets have arrived today, so I can add them to the sides of the control panel for the incoming supplies.

 

*RCA plugs are the red/yellow/white ones on the back of your tv set. Maplin sold them and I bought a few plug/socket combinations, but needed more.

 

Are the RCAs easier to wire/use than 1/4 mono jacks?  I will need a couple of fly leads and am hovering between the two options. 

Edited by Stubby47
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They keep the power separate,  stereo jack plugs can 'short' when being connected/disconnected, but if you can solder neatly with the right sized iron neither type is difficult. 

 

Mono plugs just mean more plugs...

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3 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

They keep the power separate,  stereo jack plugs can 'short' when being connected/disconnected, but if you can solder neatly with the right sized iron neither type is difficult. 

 

Mono plugs just mean more plugs...

 

Not the most dexterous with the soldering iron but good tip re the shorting possibility. Will look again at the RCA option.

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