Jump to content
 

Hills of the North - The Last Great Project


LNER4479
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 17/10/2023 at 15:50, gr.king said:

Barriers right up against the layout? As much use as a chocolate fireguard. They offer no protection from finger-poking, clumsiness or theft!

or a decent view of the layout.  I set the barriers at a foot at St Albans.  When we had The Gresley Beat, I set them at two foot.  Bill

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 19/10/2023 at 00:45, LNER4479 said:

Anyhow, no time for laurel resting - there's a layout to be built.

 

PXL_20231018_215732942.jpg.c5c92d1625224d465bd35a70abfa9ad9.jpg

Carlisle No.13 laid, bar the shouting ...

 

PXL_20231018_215659504.jpg.dc53d69533477b7b2f0993aca1271156.jpg

Heljan turntable powered up and tested. All seems to work OK (phew!) Even managed to work out how to programme the stopping positions.

 

PXL_20231018_215632821.jpg.9d0f40d2975dc4ab43348d17729d2f30.jpg

So now it's just this little lot to get laid and working 

😵‍💫

 

Hi ya . Can I ask what you are using for ballast there?  Looks like a scenic mat of some kind - Javis?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Legend said:

 

Hi ya . Can I ask what you are using for ballast there?  Looks like a scenic mat of some kind - Javis?

 

Hi there,

 

Just painted cork (at this stage). What might possibly be deceiving is that this current 3mm roll turned out to be coarser than I would have liked so it might appear to have some texture?

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Having just completed wrestling two medium radius points into the correct 6’ spacing (as per your excellent tutorial) and had a bash at building my own track, um…

 

…both methods have their merits and drawbacks?

  • Friendly/supportive 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
26 minutes ago, Tortuga said:

Having just completed wrestling two medium radius points into the correct 6’ spacing (as per your excellent tutorial) and had a bash at building my own track, um…

 

…both methods have their merits and drawbacks?

 

Having just finished a 6.5mm gauge A5 coppercald turnout I can certainly see the appeal of Peco !

  • Like 3
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
4 hours ago, Tortuga said:

Having just completed wrestling two medium radius points into the correct 6’ spacing (as per your excellent tutorial) and had a bash at building my own track, um…

 

…both methods have their merits and drawbacks?

 

3 hours ago, ian said:

 

Having just finished a 6.5mm gauge A5 coppercald turnout I can certainly see the appeal of Peco !

True enough but, as I've mentioned elsewhere, when I was a student I couldn't afford Peco points so my very good friends at Leeds MRS @Michael Edge and @Nicktoix taught me how to make copperclad ones. Nearly 50 years later, I've never bought another ready-made point (never made my own plain track, though).

  • Like 6
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
13 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

PXL_20231026_182853448.jpg.acbdaeb8176a85252410db44d6c059b7.jpg

And some motors need a switch to give functionality for (black) section switching, interlocking, light indication, etc.

 🙂

 

Do you find those Peco switches attached to solenoids to be reliable?

I gave up on them some time ago and use relays wired in parallel to the solenoid as a preferable, and more reliable solution.

Tony

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 27/10/2023 at 11:02, Tony Teague said:

Do you find those Peco switches attached to solenoids to be reliable?

I gave up on them some time ago and use relays wired in parallel to the solenoid as a preferable, and more reliable solution.

Tony

Hi Tony,

 

I think the best answer to that is that I have managed to make them reliable.

 

I use them extensively on Grantham, in conjunction with Heathcote Electronics relay boards and they have worked successfully in a show environment over the last 8 years or so.

 

What I do is to actually strip down the switch before use and check the inside (they simply clip together and can easily be unclipped). What I found was that the metal slider could have sharp edges which tended to dig into the surrounding plastic a little, hindering movement. So I file off the edges a little and check for free movement. I also check the adjustment of the contact arms, as they can be a bit variable. With these checks and improvements done, they work reliably.

 

Having said that, I'm interested to hear about your parallel relays. Presumably there's some sort of latching arrangement - is that your own design?

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 6
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, LNER4479 said:

Having said that, I'm interested to hear about your parallel relays. Presumably there's some sort of latching arrangement - is that your own design?

 

I am very comfortable with electrics, but a bit allergic to electonics where I don't understand what is going on, so whilst my layout and control of it are complex, almost all of it relies on fairly traditional switching.

There isn't really a special design, it's just an extension of normal / basic switching in which one lever or switch on the panel operates multiple devices by firing one or more relays.

I use Gaugemaster GM500 relays which are latching, and can be triggered using the same voltage as used to fire a solenoid point motor - so they are literally wired in parallel with those, and sometimes they are in multiple.

I use them to change polarity, to light indicator lamps on the control panel, to switch off the feed to conflicting tracks, and even to reverse the polarity of servo feeds so as to raise or lower semaphore signals that reflect the direction of the point setting.

They use very little current and so I have locations where my CDU might be powering 2 or 3 solenoids plus 2 or three relays with one pulse.

When combined with the DCC Concepts lever switches, which have both passing contacts and two on/off switches (or one to reverse polarity), so these together offer fairly flexible / powerful switching options.

Hope that helps but happy to clarify or respond to any other points if wanted.

Tony

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...