HYA/IIA, BY Accurascale in OO/4mm scale!

[Torbay Express]

18 hours ago, martin_l_jones said:

 

Here you are then !!

 

Nothing to see here NewBryford - no graffiti!

[Torbay Express]

16 hours ago, martin_l_jones said:

Some of my pictures that can easily be recreated from Bachmann and Hattons Class 66's........

 

HHA's yummy!  Something different that I had forgotten about, most likely not in the same league as HYAs, but different non the less.  (So were they on hire to GB, Colas wagons that eventually got stickers, FLHH hiring the locos or?  Recall 66715/716 being FLHH hires at one time) 

 

If only Hattons had done 731 in GBRF, and not First GBRf!  66705 looks good on Fastline HYAs - should be good for anyone without a Fastline 66301 (705 being done on 3 occasions by Kernow, Margate and Hattons).  Personal preference - 66705 and 66780 from the Liverpool Shed Centre, and expect that they could haul a full rake with not even a sign of a sweat.......... 

[newbryford]

6 minutes ago, Torbay Express said:

 

 

If only Hattons had done 731 in GBRF, 

 

O/T from HYAs

Hattons said early on that they would not repeat any previous number/livery combo already produced by others when they announced their range.

 

Then Bachmann and Hornby produced numbers/liveries that Hattons had announced.......

 

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by newbryford

[Torbay Express]

......that reminds me, I must try out what I have conceived as the ultimate, simple but effective haulage test (without wagons being dragged across curves), but that's for another day when I get time and posting on a different thread.........

[Torbay Express]

1 minute ago, newbryford said:

 

O/T from HYAs

Hattons said early on that they would not repeat any previous number/livery combo already produced by others when they announced their range.

 

Then Bachmann and Hornby produced numbers/liveries that Hattons had announced.......

 

 

Oh yeah, apologies Mick.  Forgot 731 (probably because blue name is camouflaged in the photos quite well) was Interhub GB, so done by Bachmann, plus Margate have since got there fingers in.  How I forgot that I do not know as just the other day recalled 731 has been done 5 times and must be the most produced Class 66 number so far and possibly ever (Hornby (3000 units?) & Bachmann 66731 Captain Tom, 66731 First GBRf (Hattons), and 66731 Interhub GB by both Bachmann and Hornby!  

[big jim]

1 hour ago, Torbay Express said:

Nothing to see here NewBryford - no graffiti!

actually there is on the 2nd wagon

 

 

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

Is it just spooky or is there a reason the tail light packs are selling out or sold out quickest?

Is it removable to fit to another wagon with a bit of modelling??,its all the hopper variants.

[Gremlin99]

2 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

Is it just spooky or is there a reason the tail light packs are selling out or sold out quickest?

Is it removable to fit to another wagon with a bit of modelling??,its all the hopper variants.

I think it’s probably just that all the folks who only want a single pack choose the one with lights! 

[McC]

1 minute ago, Gremlin99 said:

I think it’s probably just that all the folks who only want a single pack choose the one with lights! 

As they weren’t at a a premium (you’re welcome 🤗) when a lot of people chose one or more packs they tended to chose the one with the tail lamp. So relatively the higher number packs always move slower than the lower numbered as slightly less people build long rakes. 

[Tony Walker]

14 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

Is it just spooky or is there a reason the tail light packs are selling out or sold out quickest?

Is it removable to fit to another wagon with a bit of modelling??,its all the hopper variants.

 

Eric, Yes it is easy to remove it. Looks like the lamp is glued to the lamp iron, but mine was broken. I took the cover off, as per the battery fitting instructions, and popped it inside and replaced the cover. Drilled out the hole again and glued the lamp iron back on. The spare lamp iron is in the accessory bag of pipes with the lamp fitted pairs of wagons.

[Tony Walker]

I got the HYA/IIA bundle and what excellent wagons they are. The detail on them is superb. Can't say much more. Here's a video of them pulled by Hattons class 66 66740.

 

 

[Torbay Express]

36 minutes ago, Tony Walker said:

 

Eric, Yes it is easy to remove it. Looks like the lamp is glued to the lamp iron, but mine was broken. I took the cover off, as per the battery fitting instructions, and popped it inside and replaced the cover. Drilled out the hole again and glued the lamp iron back on. The spare lamp iron is in the accessory bag of pipes with the lamp fitted pairs of wagons.

Whilst not accurate, could quite expect some people would have a Tail Lamp version each end, so irrespective of direction there is a light.  Also most Coal Trains worked on enhanced/simple brake test, so quite frequently when some drivers ran around, forgot to take the tail lamp off........ 

 

Talking of taillamps - does the DRS pack include one?

Edited April 9, 2022 by Torbay Express
Addition

[big jim]

As it happens I got stopped at whitacre loop one day with fastline after a track worker reported a tail lamp ‘mid train’, it was actually just behind the loco after a run round and was left on (but switched off) so it is prototypical! 

[brittannia]

Thanks Accurascale I received my GBRF HYA/IIA yesterday very well packed very pleased with them

#Regards John 

 

Edited April 9, 2022 by brittannia
missed part of listing

[Courtybella]

21 minutes ago, big jim said:

As it happens I got stopped at whitacre loop one day with fastline after a track worker reported a tail lamp ‘mid train’, it was actually just behind the loco after a run round and was left on (but switched off) so it is prototypical! 

I’ve had that as well when the RHTT was “on fire” (smoke from wheel sets) reported by a COSS who was new to the railway ! 
 

Needless  to say the driver and I had a good laugh, the COSS suitably but educationally educated. 

[Torbay Express]

44 minutes ago, big jim said:

As it happens I got stopped at whitacre loop one day with fastline after a track worker reported a tail lamp ‘mid train’, it was actually just behind the loco after a run round and was left on (but switched off) so it is prototypical! 

Yes, reported it many times and had trains stopped for an intermediate taillamp..........

 

Less coal trains, more infrequently it happens!

[big jim]

27 minutes ago, Courtybella said:

I’ve had that as well when the RHTT was “on fire” (smoke from wheel sets) reported by a COSS who was new to the railway ! 
 

Needless  to say the driver and I had a good laugh, the COSS suitably but educationally educated. 

regularly get stopped or called up while working the UTU test trains, reports of sparks from the wheels, sometimes you can predict it after a passenger train passes then a GSM-r call comes in a couple of minutes later from the box 

 

6 minutes ago, Torbay Express said:

Yes, reported it many times and had trains stopped for an intermediate taillamp..........

 

keep My f*****g tail lamp out of your mouth!

 

 

 

[Torbay Express]

38 minutes ago, big jim said:

 

keep My f*****g tail lamp out of your mouth!

 

 

Wouldn't put a taillamp anywhere near my mouth!  Used to work in safety, never know what a driver has tried to do with one, or whatever else they have tried or done for that matter..........

 

 

[Accurascale Fran]

45 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

received my twin pack from AS and also picked up another twin pack from a show at the weekend. lovely models i have to say but i'm having running issues. My curves are R2 and R3 (piko track), all my wagons are having issues on R2 curves, i can see what the issue. The inner axle on each bogie catches the under tank when the bogie has turn on R2 curves, its stopping the bogie from turning fully and forcing the front wheels off the track.

anyone else had problems, i think the fix is easy enough but i'm not hacking a brand new wagon.

Hi Jonnyuk,

 

Very sorry to hear you are having an issue. We always recommend that the best port of call for assistance is to email us at support@accurascale.co.uk where we can provide assistance with any issues. 
 

Cheers!

 

Fran

[jonnyuk]

1 hour ago, jonnyuk said:

received my twin pack from AS and also picked up another twin pack from a show at the weekend. lovely models i have to say but i'm having running issues. My curves are R2 and R3 (piko track), all my wagons are having issues on R2 curves, i can see what the issue. The inner axle on each bogie catches the under tank when the bogie has turn on R2 curves, its stopping the bogie from turning fully and forcing the front wheels off the track.

anyone else had problems, i think the fix is easy enough but i'm not hacking a brand new wagon.

I’ve actually put this in the wrong thread, should be in the biomass thread. I’ll remove this and put it in the right one

[CoBoLoco]

49 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

received my twin pack from AS and also picked up another twin pack from a show at the weekend. lovely models i have to say but i'm having running issues. My curves are R2 and R3 (piko track), all my wagons are having issues on R2 curves, i can see what the issue. The inner axle on each bogie catches the under tank when the bogie has turn on R2 curves, its stopping the bogie from turning fully and forcing the front wheels off the track.

anyone else had problems, i think the fix is easy enough but i'm not hacking a brand new wagon.

 

I have noticed this - well not any derailments- as I have only opened them for inspection thus far and places on straight track.

 

As you can see in the pics below, part of the hopper Bay door assembly results in each bogie being able to rotate less degrees in one direction from the center than the other.

 

I understand the frustration of potentially having to do some DIY to fix the issue on a brand new model, but to be fair it doesn't require much I think, just a steady hand, blade & a file.

 

I have some minor niggles with the models as well, such as the wheels don't appear to roll as freely as Accurascale's PFAs, with maybe a very very slight wobble. Maybe I will look into fitting some brass bearings.

 

I was going to take issue that I didn't think the painted weld lines on the Nacco wagons are as fine as I would like (lines varying in width, see pic), however having taken a closer look at the prototype, the welds are actually like this!!!

 

I can understand people wanting a model to be perfect, but it is very difficult to achieve anyone else's idea of perfection, except maybe your own.

 

I honestly think these wagons are cracking (ordered 4x packs, so 8x wagons), and they will look fantastic behind my Hattons 66. They are that great I probably would've ordered more, had more non-europorte liveries/numbers been available (originally I was only going to preorder 3x packs, the multi buy discount twisted my arm). 

 

I will likely buy some more in future, should accurascale do another run with different numbers & hopefully some in the new dark blue livery they are appearing in.

 

More importantly they are not a rip off either. For the same rrp you could almost, but not quite, buy 2x tiny VEA vans from another manufacturer. Also these accurascale have sprung buffers (which the aforementioned VEAs lack) & I am a complete sucker for them. Makes close coupled wagons & curves less of a compromise.

 

The TLDR version is essentially get a knife & a file to fix, carefully removing the fouling part.

 

If you do it carefully enough you might not even be able to see the difference from the outside, but note, this is what I plan to do - I haven't done it yet!!! Bear in mind if you do the DIY, accurascale probably won't take them back if you change your mind... 

[CoBoLoco]

16 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

I’ve actually put this in the wrong thread, should be in the biomass thread. I’ll remove this and put it in the right one

I think the issue affects all the HYAs fyi

[Br60066]

1 hour ago, CoBoLoco said:

If you do it carefully enough you might not even be able to see the difference from the outside, but note, this is what I plan to do - I haven't done it yet!!! Bear in mind if you do the DIY, accurascale probably won't take them back if you change your mind... 

 

 

 

 

Same issue here. Interestingly it only hits the bogie in one direction. Assuming you have a circular layout you could arrange the wagons in a way that the bogie only moves to the clear side of the wagon. You can tell by making sure the handbrake wheel is at the front of the wagon in the direction of travel. This will let you make left turns. Have the handbrakes to the rear of the wagon if you turn right.

 

I've been brave (or foolish depending on you're stance) enough to trim this down with a craft knife. If done carefully you can't see any difference on the track and it fixes the issue. You don't need to remove the full moulding. Just the section closest to the centre of the wagon. You then want to put a gradient on the remaining plastic. This needs to be done carefully though as the plastic part you are working on may break the glue bonds if you press too hard and require reattachment.

 

Again as you have said this is a DIY solution and is completely on the modeller's shoulders if they want to attempt this and take on the warranty concerns as well as the chance of fouling it up. I am not endorsing this method.

[Andy7]

24 minutes ago, Br60066 said:

 

Same issue here. Interestingly it only hits the bogie in one direction. Assuming you have a circular layout you could arrange the wagons in a way that the bogie only moves to the clear side of the wagon. You can tell by making sure the handbrake wheel is at the front of the wagon in the direction of travel. This will let you make left turns. Have the handbrakes to the rear of the wagon if you turn right.

 

I've been brave (or foolish depending on you're stance) enough to trim this down with a craft knife. If done carefully you can't see any difference on the track and it fixes the issue. You don't need to remove the full moulding. Just the section closest to the centre of the wagon. You then want to put a gradient on the remaining plastic. This needs to be done carefully though as the plastic part you are working on may break the glue bonds if you press too hard and require reattachment.

 

Again as you have said this is a DIY solution and is completely on the modeller's shoulders if they want to attempt this and take on the warranty concerns as well as the chance of fouling it up. I am not endorsing this method.

I have done the above on my 12x IIA and also 14x short HYA. Easy and quick to do and solves the problem.

[jonnyuk]

in a way i'm pleased to hear its seems to be a generally fault with the wagons (not just mine or my track). I'm going to email support as directed above and AS can fix it, i'm not invalidating my warranty or resale value (if i choose to sell them in the future) by hacking a brand new wagon (no matter how minor it may seem). I too noticed that the wheels don't run smoothly, not enough to cause an issue though, the Hornby Class 60 could pull a house down.

 

On a positive note, they are stunning models and good value for money