Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

[tom s]

Vallejo Model Air Silver is another good real aluminium powder paint with good coverage and convincing shine to camouflage plastic rails among metal ones, or act as a base to add black or gold tones to, depending on your rail of choice.

[St Enodoc]

11 hours ago, Nick C said:

Do you glue those on? I tried using them  on mine and found it really difficult to get them to stay in place - this might of course be down to my ham-fistedness, but I ended up breaking or losing several...

 

Alternatively can anyone recommend any other insulating fishplates that might be easier to use for code 75 Bullhead? The Peco Bullhead ones are good for conducting joints, but they don't do an insulating version...

Peco N gauge.

[hayfield]

19 hours ago, Nick C said:

Do you glue those on? I tried using them  on mine and found it really difficult to get them to stay in place - this might of course be down to my ham-fistedness, but I ended up breaking or losing several...

 

Alternatively can anyone recommend any other insulating fishplates that might be easier to use for code 75 Bullhead? The Peco Bullhead ones are good for conducting joints, but they don't do an insulating version...

 

I have never had any issues with them once the track bases are in situ, the Exactoscale ones are stronger but may be slightly overscale. 

 

Please note these fishplates are fragile and will depend on both track bases being firmly stuck down, they are functionable but requires a soft touch until the glue on the track bases set. Once you get used to the method of using them they are fine

[hayfield]

7 hours ago, BWsTrains said:

 

Except only available thru the Scale Societies, none of which I'm ever going to join. Pity really given the growing interest in Code 75 even if at more modest OO Gauge.

 

Is there an opportunity here Wayne?

 

 

 

 

 

C&L sell their own variation to the public

 

EMGS show (Expo EM) is on the 11th & 12th of May Exactoscale parts will be on sale to all who attend the event, or make friends with an EMGS member or two

[The Fatadder]

Could anyone advise on the double slip (OO) kit?

I am at the stage of fitting the tie bar, I have been having issues with this (on the B7 I built last night it was a touch thick thanks to flash and took a little thinning down to get running smoothly).   So before fitting the tie bar I did a quick test fitting a length of rail across the tie bar to make sure it moved smoothly before adding the pins and installing.

 

However having added the 4 pins to the tie bar and placed in the slot on the baseplate it now wont move because the pin head on the underside is up against the inside edge of the baseplate.  Any thoughts as to what I am doing wrong?   As with the B7 there is a lot more flash on the baseplate than on previous purchases so I have already cleaned up the slot and the tie bar.  I am wondering if I am missing something simple (like cutting away the webbing either side of the tie bar once it has been soldered in place, or if I need to open up the slot further to clear the pin head)

 

edit

Looking at it further, I have checked the spacing between the holes (it matches the B7), looking at the webbing on the B7 for the sleeper gap where the tie bar sits the webbing steps out by about 1mm which gives the required clearance, whereas on the Slip it continues in line with the chairs / the rest of the webbing.  Surely this should also step out here to provide the required clearance for the pin heads on the tie bars?

Edited April 11 by The Fatadder

[BWsTrains]

Those pin heads look significantly more pronounced than the ones in all the new style kits I've built (my early ones were with cast frogs and pre-soldered switch rail pins).

 

IIRC pin heads on my kits sat near flush under the tiebar, I've certainly had no sticking due to them.

 

I've one A5 I can easily lift tomorrow and I'll attach a photo. My single slip is back in situ and NOT coming out again.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

48 minutes ago, BWsTrains said:

Those pin heads look significantly more pronounced than the ones in all the new style kits I've built (my early ones were with cast frogs and pre-soldered switch rail pins).

 

IIRC pin heads on my kits sat near flush under the tiebar, I've certainly had no sticking due to them.

 

I've one A5 I can easily lift tomorrow and I'll attach a photo. My single slip is back in situ and NOT coming out again.

 

 

Thanks for the offer,  but I have a working B7 sat on the work bench for comparison (I am assuming an A5 would be the same).   Looking at the tie bar the pin heads are right up against the underside of the tie bar, but are not remotely flush.  I think it might be possible to countersink them slightly which would help (though it will mean removing the pins I have already fitted).  

 

This is the underside of the B7 vs the Double Slip, noting the webbing has been pushed outward by 1mm giving the pins clearance.  

 

As I far as I can see there are two options, either remove the webbing completely giving plenty of clearance for the tie bar to move.  or more filing to add another 0.5mm of clearance (less if countersinking the pins works).  Although my thinking is that thinning this section would weaken it so much I may as well just chop it out.

 
B7 

double slip 

 

I wonder if the spec of the pins has changed somewhat, or if all of this is in some way down to the aforementioned issues with the flash around the mouldings interfering with the tolerances too much.

 

 

Edited April 11 by The Fatadder

[Tim Dubya]

I'd opt for the chopping out the webbing, rather than thinning, once it's in it's permanent home of course.

 

He says sat at a comfortable distance only armed with a phone.

 

Good luck 👍

[Siberian Snooper]

12 hours ago, BWsTrains said:

 

Except only available thru the Scale Societies, none of which I'm ever going to join. Pity really given the growing interest in Code 75 even if at more modest OO Gauge.

 

Is there an opportunity here Wayne?

 

 

 

 

You can buy exactoscale parts at a society show or one that the sales stand attends. EMGS shows are at Bracknell in May and Wakefield in August. The S4 society has shows or the trade stand at Railwells in August Scaleforum in September in September, the sales stand may be at other shows op Norf!

 

 

[BWsTrains]

I see what you mean about the double slip with the webbing being continuous rather than stepped as on the turnouts. 

 

A further option might be to install a replacement strip outside the existing ones before cutting them out. If you intend to not glue down immediately it will be better to support the last three sleepers than have them loose from the rest of the base.

 

As a final point, the single slip is configured like a simple turnout with the webbing offset on the outside to provide clearance for the pin. 

 

 

[BWsTrains]

6 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

 

You can buy exactoscale parts at a society show or one that the sales stand attends. EMGS shows are at Bracknell in May and Wakefield in August. The S4 society has shows or the trade stand at Railwells in August Scaleforum in September in September, the sales stand may be at other shows op Norf!

 

 

 

Sadly it's all a tad far for a trip from Australia!

[The Fatadder]

6 minutes ago, BWsTrains said:

I see what you mean about the double slip with the webbing being continuous rather than stepped as on the turnouts. 

 

A further option might be to install a replacement strip outside the existing ones before cutting them out. If you intend to not glue down immediately it will be better to support the last three sleepers than have them loose from the rest of the base.

 

As a final point, the single slip is configured like a simple turnout with the webbing offset on the outside to provide clearance for the pin. 

 

 

Certainly sounds sensible to keep the webbing in place until I am ready to lay the track (particularly as it may still be a couple of months until the baseboard arrives).  I will be modifying the bases anyway to remove the webbing at the parts where provision is made for wiring (so there is extra wide webbing close to the sleeper edge, so I think I will remove the webbing thats next to the tie bar at the same time.

 

Very odd that on the single slip the webbing is offset at the tie bar as per the plain turnouts, feels like it should be the same here

[cctransuk]

7 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Certainly sounds sensible to keep the webbing in place until I am ready to lay the track (particularly as it may still be a couple of months until the baseboard arrives).  I will be modifying the bases anyway to remove the webbing at the parts where provision is made for wiring (so there is extra wide webbing close to the sleeper edge, so I think I will remove the webbing thats next to the tie bar at the same time.

 

Very odd that on the single slip the webbing is offset at the tie bar as per the plain turnouts, feels like it should be the same here

 

Could you not simply file clearance slots for the pinheads?

 

CJI.

[Nick C]

Mine has a definite step in the webbing, with a slot for the tiebar - it's oo-sf though. 

 

[The Fatadder]

34 minutes ago, Nick C said:

Mine has a definite step in the webbing, with a slot for the tiebar - it's oo-sf though. 

 

thanks, I will drop them an email.  There must be an error in the drawing for the standard OO version as I can’t see any way it works as designed without the step in the webbing. 

[BSW01]

A little bit more info on insulated rail joiners. I came across a packet of  ‘n’ gauge Peco insulated rail joiners in my workshop, so tried one on a rail of the diamond kit I’ve made up. They’re a bit sloppy, but they do fit, but then again, they're designed for code 55 flat bottom rail. They would work, if that’s all you can get hold of, but I'd only use them on dead straight track. 

[NFWEM57]

3 hours ago, BWsTrains said:

Sadly it's all a tad far for a trip from Australia!

Having just sold an upgraded original HST to an Australian customer, the postage was pretty steep; £30..!  A pack of 48 fishplates is £6.00 but the pack would not be letter size unless some kind soul took them off the sprues for you and placed them in a little plastic bag to mail in a standard envelope.  Postage is around £2.50 from UK to Australia and then there is the cost of shipping from the society to the kind soul in the UK, overall cost around £12 for one pack, £18 for two or £30 for 4.

[Wayne Kinney]

9 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Could anyone advise on the double slip (OO) kit?

I am at the stage of fitting the tie bar, I have been having issues with this (on the B7 I built last night it was a touch thick thanks to flash and took a little thinning down to get running smoothly).   So before fitting the tie bar I did a quick test fitting a length of rail across the tie bar to make sure it moved smoothly before adding the pins and installing.

 

However having added the 4 pins to the tie bar and placed in the slot on the baseplate it now wont move because the pin head on the underside is up against the inside edge of the baseplate.  Any thoughts as to what I am doing wrong?   As with the B7 there is a lot more flash on the baseplate than on previous purchases so I have already cleaned up the slot and the tie bar.  I am wondering if I am missing something simple (like cutting away the webbing either side of the tie bar once it has been soldered in place, or if I need to open up the slot further to clear the pin head)

 

edit

Looking at it further, I have checked the spacing between the holes (it matches the B7), looking at the webbing on the B7 for the sleeper gap where the tie bar sits the webbing steps out by about 1mm which gives the required clearance, whereas on the Slip it continues in line with the chairs / the rest of the webbing.  Surely this should also step out here to provide the required clearance for the pin heads on the tie bars?

 

Hi,

 

There is defo an issue here, I must have printed the wrong file version. The proper CAD file has the webbing moved outwards:

 

Sorry, drop us an email and I can sort you out a replacement!

Edited April 11 by Wayne Kinney

[BWsTrains]

7 hours ago, NFWEM57 said:

Having just sold an upgraded original HST to an Australian customer, the postage was pretty steep; £30..!  A pack of 48 fishplates is £6.00 but the pack would not be letter size unless some kind soul took them off the sprues for you and placed them in a little plastic bag to mail in a standard envelope.  Postage is around £2.50 from UK to Australia and then there is the cost of shipping from the society to the kind soul in the UK, overall cost around £12 for one pack, £18 for two or £30 for 4.

 

Thx,

 

Sadly the high cost of postage severely restricts my purchases from the UK these days and typically I try to consolidate my orders, not easy when it's smaller suppliers.

 

Having lifted / relaid the problem items now and fully resolved my wiring and insulation gap issues I decided to go with the small PECO joiners as per @St Enodoc 's suggestion to isolate the single slip. TBH I fall more into the big picture than fine detail camp so the Exactoscale would have been nice to have but not enough to go to great trouble.

 

I appreciate it's not the same for everyone but I'm content with enjoying the look and feel of my layout at a macro level now it's assembled with decent trackwork throughout.

 

Colin

 

 

 

 

[St Enodoc]

14 hours ago, BSW01 said:

A little bit more info on insulated rail joiners. I came across a packet of  ‘n’ gauge Peco insulated rail joiners in my workshop, so tried one on a rail of the diamond kit I’ve made up. They’re a bit sloppy, but they do fit, but then again, they're designed for code 55 flat bottom rail. They would work, if that’s all you can get hold of, but I'd only use them on dead straight track. 

Yes. I omitted from my earlier post that I generally add a dab of glue to stop them slipping off. Personally, I wouldn't rely on ANY insulated rail joiners to keep rails in alignment.

Edited April 12 by St Enodoc
Added info.

[The Fatadder]

I should really have checked this already, can anyone confirm if the double slip is an A or B switch?  My templot plan has it drawn as an A7 slip but I have a feeling I should have drawn it as a B7... (or does it not make any difference with a slip?)

 

From what I can see on the website it just describes it as a 1:7 slip  

[martin_wynne]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

I should really have checked this already, can anyone confirm if the double slip is an A or B switch?  My templot plan has it drawn as an A7 slip but I have a feeling I should have drawn it as a B7... (or does it not make any difference with a slip?)

 

From what I can see on the website it just describes it as a 1:7 slip  

 

Hi Rich,

 

The switch size doesn't make any difference to the overall size of the slip which is governed only by the crossing angle and the track gauge.

 

If you used the make slip function in Templot, a 1:7 slip will have B-type switches. It doesn't matter whether you start from an A-7 turnout or a B-7 turnout, the 1:7 slip will have B-type switches.

 

I believe Wayne uses the same Templot designs for the Finetrax kits. The kits are supplied with suitable machined switch blades, so there is no actual need to be concerned with the size of the switch.

 

The only way to create a 1:7 slip with A-type switches would be to create it yourself in Templot using multiple partial templates, instead of using the make slip function. It would still fit in the same overall size footprint as a 1:7 slip with B-type blades.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[Dominion]

Big locos certainly look good and run well through the Finetrax 1:7 slips. I believe in Templot t for a double slip the blade tips start one further timber towards the centre to allow space and clearance for soldering to the tie bar arrangement and for flange clearance. Single slips could be one timber closer to the V crossings, and that maybe the default for a single in Templot. Wayne’s singles use the same spacing as the doubles. Initially I was wondering if it was worth extending the blades on the singles somehow, but the only solution would have been to do a lot of butchery or start from scratch and Wayne’s just are too good for that :-)

[BWsTrains]

Now I'm confused.

 

I thought the A and B in A5 B7 of these Turnouts and Slips referred to switch size as per this table:

 

https://85a.uk/templot/companion/real_track.php

 

If you change the Switch Size in Templot using "Template" then "Switch Settings" an A5 is extended when you change it to B5. Isn't that what The Fatadder is asking about? What am I missing here?

[martin_wynne]

17 minutes ago, Dominion said:

I believe in Templot t for a double slip the blade tips start one further timber towards the centre to allow space and clearance

 

This is an OPTION in Templot. You can set it to whatever you want:

 

 

I get a bit irritated when folks say Templot does this, or Templot does that. Templot is a workshop TOOL -- it does whatever you set it to do.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.