RMweb Gold Donw Posted March 16 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 16 (edited) On 14/03/2024 at 23:30, St Enodoc said: Not sure why track centres would be different? It shouldn't be a problem on straight track but where you have crossovers you will have issues with crossovers because the track centres and the gauge affect the spacing of the two turnouts with respect to each other. To make life easy you can just go for 11ft miminum track centres but if you are replacing one gauge with another and maintaining the track centres the v crossings will move a little along the track as well as closer to the track centre. Don Edited March 16 by Donw adition 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 17 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 17 1 hour ago, Donw said: It shouldn't be a problem on straight track but where you have crossovers you will have issues with crossovers because the track centres and the gauge affect the spacing of the two turnouts with respect to each other. To make life easy you can just go for 11ft miminum track centres but if you are replacing one gauge with another and maintaining the track centres the v crossings will move a little along the track as well as closer to the track centre. Don Yes. The wider the gauge, the longer the S&C becomes, everything else being equal (another reason to stick with 00!). 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus1 Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 I've got the tracing, scanned and loaded to usb stick. This is necessary if you are using Templot on Applemac on Crossover or similar as Templot is windows-based. Then import the jpeg to Templot from the usb stick. The problem now is remembering how to do that!! The trouble with getting old is having the memory in my head for so many computer commands which is why I will stick with DC control for my layout. I am not of the computer generation. 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus1 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 (edited) When we built the MRC's New Annington layout in the late 1970s we used the scale 6 foot way IIRC. It was ok on straights and large radius curves, including the famous curve with superelevation. Things missed each other. Then along came Joueff with scale-length Mk3 coaches to go with the Hornby HST power cars. They didn't miss each other. Then we discovered 24.whatever wasn't enough for Mk3 coaches, so we had to lift the outer track and relay it a few mm further out. The superelevation didn't help! Things to remember for the future. :) Maybe Wayne could do a track pack for a modern branch line terminus for a plank diorama with 2m of plain track? After all if he's going over to single lines, he'll need a source of income if we all follow his advice. :) Edited March 19 by roythebus1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Kinney Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 9 hours ago, roythebus1 said: Maybe Wayne could do a track pack for a modern branch line terminus for a plank diorama with 2m of plain track? After all if he's going over to single lines, he'll need a source of income if we all follow his advice. :) Think I'm going to model post beeching just after they pulled the track up. Much simpler :) 1 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithHC Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Ah but if you do a single track blt…… There is the terminus and maybe a passing loop so by default we have double track again. Back to the drawing board. Now how much room do I need for Stourbridge Town…… Keith 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 5944 Posted March 25 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25 On 20/03/2024 at 11:08, KeithHC said: Ah but if you do a single track blt…… There is the terminus and maybe a passing loop so by default we have double track again. Back to the drawing board. Now how much room do I need for Stourbridge Town…… Keith Horizontally or vertically? 1 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 25 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25 On 20/03/2024 at 10:04, Wayne Kinney said: Think I'm going to model post beeching just after they pulled the track up. Much simpler :) A most original way to commit commercial suicide Wayne!! Even better than the prawn sandwich. Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 58 minutes ago, 5944 said: Horizontally or vertically? Hope it wasn't Saltley driver 'stacker steadman'!..😉...he was famous for a incident that resulted in a few 12t vans ended up Vic Berry style on top of a 08 at washwood heath... The town car was saltley when I was there in 89...I seem to remember about 20+ trips back and forth...suppose their one was more memorable than the last trip.....he'll of a way to get a early finish😃 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted April 7 Popular Post Share Posted April 7 I've always hankered after decent looking track - and finally thanks to Wayne, I have some. Well, a single EM B7 turnout anyway. Despite failing to read the instructions, assembling things in the wrong order and making a complete hash of the soldering (in my case soldering is 10% heat and 90% swearing...) things seem to have turned out all right in the end... I really need to clean off that excess solder... I even got myself a wheel puller and a back to back gauge so I could adjust some wheelsets... Probably shouldn't have stared with this though I really enjoyed the project - a top rank product, goes together beautifully (if I can manage it, literally anyone can) and makes a proper British looking turnout. S'almost the right gauge n'all 🤣 19 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 What is the best flex track to match this turnout range? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndon Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 3 hours ago, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said: What is the best flex track to match this turnout range? I believe C&L Finescale do flexi track with a matching sleeper thickness. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuffer Davies Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 6 hours ago, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said: What is the best flex track to match this turnout range? The EMGS's flexitrack (manufactured by Peco) is a match. This is available mail order to EMGS members from the club's stores, or can be purchased from their trade store at either of the Expo events by both members and non-members. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWsTrains Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 On 08/04/2024 at 07:55, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said: I've always hankered after decent looking track - and finally thanks to Wayne, I have some. Well, a single EM B7 turnout anyway. Despite failing to read the instructions, assembling things in the wrong order and making a complete hash of the soldering (in my case soldering is 10% heat and 90% swearing...) things seem to have turned out all right in the end... I really need to clean off that excess solder... I even got myself a wheel puller and a back to back gauge so I could adjust some wheelsets... Probably shouldn't have stared with this though I really enjoyed the project - a top rank product, goes together beautifully (if I can manage it, literally anyone can) and makes a proper British looking turnout. S'almost the right gauge n'all 🤣 I've built around 15 of these turnouts and share your enthusiasm. One thing which I've experienced twice now may be relevant to you, insulation gap issues. From your pic above on my experience these look too narrow for comfort, I've had at least two shorts arising due to either most subtle movements in the switch blade or dirt bridging the gap at the "knuckle" point (as shown in Wayne's instruction sheet). In one case I had to lift the installed turnouts and widen the gaps, (more details to be posted on my topic shortly). Wayne suggests 0.3mm, I think a little wider does no harm! Good luck with your project. Colin 1 1 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 9 hours ago, BWsTrains said: I've built around 15 of these turnouts and share your enthusiasm. One thing which I've experienced twice now may be relevant to you, insulation gap issues. From your pic above on my experience these look too narrow for comfort, I've had at least two shorts arising due to either most subtle movements in the switch blade or dirt bridging the gap at the "knuckle" point (as shown in Wayne's instruction sheet). In one case I had to lift the installed turnouts and widen the gaps, (more details to be posted on my topic shortly). Wayne suggests 0.3mm, I think a little wider does no harm! Good luck with your project. Colin Yes I thought this might be a possibility. I have considered inserting a small sliver of suitably sized plasticard into the gap for Turnout 2 .... Turnout 2 will incorporate several minor improvements based on the experience of Turnout 1. For one thing, I've read the instructions now... 😃 What is the flux in Wayne's construction pictures? It looks to be in a very handy small bottle with a neat nozzle. That would help with my untidy soldering I think. I joined the EMGS. Highly recommended. I hope they appreciate it, I never usually join anything! 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 One very easy and very good looking is to use either Exactoscale or C&L plastic (H shaped) linked fishplates, these form firstly an important isolating function but also a very prototypical looking fishplate which rail joiners fail to do. These can also be used to join rail sections, but insulate the rails from each other requiring dropper wires for electrical connectivity. These plastic fishplates can also help to disguise gaps left for expansion Cast brass linked fishplates can be brought, but I would not rely on them for electrical purposes, etched brass fishplates may be a more economical alternative As for the joint at the knuckle, a quick dab of solder may hide the join 3 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted April 10 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10 Would anyone know the compatibility (lookability) with SMP OO (think it's J type, I've got)? tia Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted April 10 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10 36 minutes ago, Tim Dubya said: Would anyone know the compatibility (lookability) with SMP OO (think it's J type, I've got)? tia The SMP sleepers are thinner, Tim. If you're using cork underlay, the trick is to use 3mm thick under the SMP and 2mm thick under the points. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted April 10 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10 Had a delivery today with another B7 and a double slip for the Wheal Imogen extension, wont have the basaeboard until at least next month but getting tempted to make a start work on the kits. Question to anyone who's built the slip, what did you do for painting the moulded checkrails? Not something I have had to do before, so looking to ensure that it doesnt stand out next to the rest of the point in real rail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nick C Posted April 10 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10 1 hour ago, hayfield said: One very easy and very good looking is to use either Exactoscale or C&L plastic (H shaped) linked fishplates, these form firstly an important isolating function but also a very prototypical looking fishplate which rail joiners fail to do. Do you glue those on? I tried using them on mine and found it really difficult to get them to stay in place - this might of course be down to my ham-fistedness, but I ended up breaking or losing several... Alternatively can anyone recommend any other insulating fishplates that might be easier to use for code 75 Bullhead? The Peco Bullhead ones are good for conducting joints, but they don't do an insulating version... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BSW01 Posted April 10 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10 DCC Concepts make some insulated rail joiners, I've just bought some, but haven't tried them yet. I'll test a couple later today and see how they are. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BSW01 Posted April 10 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10 (edited) Here is a close up of one fitted to a single rail of a B7 diamond crossing kit. They’re quite small and are a little fiddly to get on, but they do go on and are a good, tight fit. This is a packet, for those interested. I’ve no connection with this company, other than as a satisfied customer. Brian. Edited April 10 by BSW01 1 2 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevel Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 8 hours ago, The Fatadder said: Question to anyone who's built the slip, what did you do for painting the moulded checkrails? Not something I have had to do before, so looking to ensure that it doesnt stand out next to the rest of the point in real rail. I have used AK-Interactive true metal for a good representation of steel, there other metal paints such as copper gunmetal etc, are excellent. Stephen 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NFWEM57 Posted April 10 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10 (edited) On 10/04/2024 at 00:22, BWsTrains said: One thing which I've experienced twice now may be relevant to you, insulation gap issues. Another item you can use are Exactoscale scale fishplates. I found everything else like the legacy rail joiners or PECO insulated joiners too big. The ExactoScale fishplates have an insulating section in the middle. Simply slide over the web of both rails. They look like this (below) in situ. This is a B9 crossover, the first I have every scratch built, which I have just completed for my test track and is awaiting painting. The shiny stuff is MEK/Butanone. You may need to secure one end in place with a tiny spot of glue. I now use these fishplates on the British Finescale turnouts. Regards, Patrick Edited April 10 by NFWEM57 Typo 5 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWsTrains Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 (edited) 16 minutes ago, NFWEM57 said: The ExactoScale fishplates have an insulating section in the middle. Simply slide over the web of both rails. Except only available thru the Scale Societies, none of which I'm ever going to join. Pity really given the growing interest in Code 75 even if at more modest OO Gauge. Is there an opportunity here Wayne? Edited April 11 by BWsTrains 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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