Sonic Models OO Gauge Robinson A5

[Helmdon]

10 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:

The GC operated some long distance local services. Bradshaws July 1922 timetable shows for example a 0645 Marylebone-Leicester Central on weekdays and a 0930 Sundays Marylebone-Nottingham Victoria.

Sort of a function of not running through large population centres between Rugby and Aylesbury and yet having many intermediate stations - so without stopping expresses at e.g. Culworth, they were forced into some pretty epic stopper turns.

[Woodcock29]

I have now replaced the chimney on my A5 with a PDK turned brass O4 chimney. I've also removed the moulded smokebox door handle and replaced the fitted express headcode lamps with lamp irons. I'm yet to modify the front tension lock coupling but that will be undertaken. I'm currently contemplating replacing the moulded plastic coal rails with etched brass coal rails that happen to have. The vacuum pipes have been bent so they are swayed across as per the prototype.

 

Repainting the smokebox was easy as the boiler unit can be removed from the rest of the body after the cab top is removed. Care needs to be taken in extracting the metal boiler handrails from the front of the tanks during this process. So its easy to mask the rest of the boiler and just spray the smokebox once I had completed the work.

 

For comparison:

 

 

 

Edited April 18, 2023 by Woodcock29
added comment

[drmditch]

Thank you Woodcock29. Very helpful.

Would you mind describing the method of cab roof removal?

[Woodcock29]

By gently squeezing the coal rails together the coal and coal rails can be lifted out of the bunker. This exposes a screw at the base of the rear of the cab in the bunker. After removing the screw the rear of the cab can be lifted upwards and the front gently released from under the rear of the tank tops where the lugs on the cab front fit.  Hope this makes sense - its very easy - might just need to push the sides of the cab front in a bit as you do this.  Great for fitting crew.

 

I also removed the glazing from the front and side windows (they didn't seem to be glued and simply pushed inwards) -  then I carefully painted the edges black to reduce the prismatic effects - I didn't refit the rear side windows. I didn't try to remove the rear spectacle windows as these are more securely fitted.

 

Andrew

[simmo009]

I am very pleased with the aesthetics of this locomotive, easy to get into if necessary especially for DCC fitment. But, having run mine in (1 hr each forward and reverse, both clockwise and anticlockwise) I find that I have a flange squeal noise on curves. Admittedly 2nd radius, but it only happens when going forward, both clockwise and anticlockwise. Going to try on some larger radius curves later just in case that is the issue, but any other suggestions are welcome.

[simmo009]

1m radius = no squealing, so maybe the curve radius is the issue, but this loco claims to be suitable for 2nd radius, which is a problem.

[Boleyn Road]

Finally got round to weathering mine - very pleased with how it looks!

[montyburns56]

4 hours ago, stratford 47 said:

Finally got round to weathering mine - very pleased with how it looks!

 

I think that's the best depiction of greasy buffers that I ever seen on a model.

[Boleyn Road]

19 hours ago, montyburns56 said:

 

I think that's the best depiction of greasy buffers that I ever seen on a model.

Thank you!

 

The buffers got a coat of gun metal through the airbrush, then lifecolor black was added with a cotton bud for the lighter, greyer colour. After it had dried for about 15 minutes, tamiya Matt black was added, again with a cocktail stick. 

Next time, I think I might tone done the Matt black a little a touch of grey and/or add some talcum powder for some texture!

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

I have just had a problem with mine, which up to this point has been most satisfactory. On arrival in March it got 10 hours running time to flush out any infant mortality, and has run multiple times since without any problem. But yesterday it repeatedly coasted to a halt when asked to pull a load of the sort it has handled perfectly in the past. Run light engine, no problem.

 

My suspicion is that there may be a 'polyfuse' thermal cut out in it; the motor does get warm under load, but never uncomfortable to touch. What I feel is the difference between yesterday and all past outings was the 28C air temperature; I have been away from home during every warm spell this spring, so it has never been exposed to this before. 

 

Anyone?

[31A]

6 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

I have just had a problem with mine, which up to this point has been most satisfactory. On arrival in March it got 10 hours running time to flush out any infant mortality, and has run multiple times since without any problem. But yesterday it repeatedly coasted to a halt when asked to pull a load of the sort it has handled perfectly in the past. Run light engine, no problem.

 

My suspicion is that there may be a 'polyfuse' thermal cut out in it; the motor does get warm under load, but never uncomfortable to touch. What I feel is the difference between yesterday and all past outings was the 28C air temperature; I have been away from home during every warm spell this spring, so it has never been exposed to this before. 

 

Anyone?

 

Welcome back, and thank you for this.  My A5 has hardly turned a wheel in anger yet (lovely model though it is) and I have not come across that problem with it.

 

However, one of my Hornby B12s (61533) has been behaving in the manner you describe, over time getting worse and worse, and I have replaced the motor twice, thinking that was where the problem lay.  However this evening having read your post, I took it apart and hard wired the pickups, bypassing completely the circuit board in the tender.  If anyone's interested, I had to connect orange to red and grey to black inside the tender.  I've just been giving it a good 'work out', and so far it has behaved impeccably.

 

So although inconclusive as regards the A5, I suspect you are onto something.  I don't know whether you use DCC, but if not it ought to be straightforward to bypass the circuit board and all its components.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

48 minutes ago, 31A said:

However, one of my Hornby B12s (61533) has been behaving in the manner you describe, over time getting worse and worse, and I have replaced the motor twice, thinking that was where the problem lay.  However this evening having read your post, I took it apart and hard wired the pickups, bypassing completely the circuit board in the tender.  If anyone's interested, I had to connect orange to red and grey to black inside the tender.  I've just been giving it a good 'work out', and so far it has behaved impeccably.

 

So although inconclusive as regards the A5, I suspect you are onto something.  I don't know whether you use DCC, but if not it ought to be straightforward to bypass the circuit board and all its components.

Thanks Steve. My B12's have been trouble free, but I have been aware of other's problem reports.

 

All my traction is DCC fitted, and quite a lot of it hard wired because our dear manufacturers have often placed decoder sockets in exactly the wrong place in the past. Interesting thought that I may have dodged a bullet or two that way. (To be fair more recent steam model productions have shown improvement in this respect, and the A5 is among those that are good .)

 

I'll report once I have had some time to tinker with the A5 on Monday or Tuesday or Wednesday... life a trifle unpredictable at present.

[Woodcock29]

On 09/07/2023 at 05:34, 31A said:

 

Welcome back, and thank you for this.  My A5 has hardly turned a wheel in anger yet (lovely model though it is) and I have not come across that problem with it.

 

However, one of my Hornby B12s (61533) has been behaving in the manner you describe, over time getting worse and worse, and I have replaced the motor twice, thinking that was where the problem lay.  However this evening having read your post, I took it apart and hard wired the pickups, bypassing completely the circuit board in the tender.  If anyone's interested, I had to connect orange to red and grey to black inside the tender.  I've just been giving it a good 'work out', and so far it has behaved impeccably.

 

So although inconclusive as regards the A5, I suspect you are onto something.  I don't know whether you use DCC, but if not it ought to be straightforward to bypass the circuit board and all its components.

I had exactly the same issue with a Hornby B12/3 some months ago. It's been fine since I 'gutted' the DCC ready board. I've also had to do this on a Bachmann K3 and WD for a mate.

Andrew

[31A]

9 hours ago, Woodcock29 said:

I had exactly the same issue with a Hornby B12/3 some months ago. It's been fine since I 'gutted' the DCC ready board. I've also had to do this on a Bachmann K3 and WD for a mate.

Andrew

That's interesting.  I with I'd realised that was where the problem lay before I'd splashed out on two new motors for my B12!  I think I was led down that path by various inconclusive reports of people having problems with B12 motors, but with hindsight I should probably have realised the chances of getting three duff motors ought to be vanishingly small.  Anyway thanks to 34B/D for hinting at the actual cause of the issue, which I shall bear in mind if anything similar happens again.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

46 minutes ago, 31A said:

hinting at the actual cause of the issue,

I'd substitute 'a potential' as we are in not proven territory ATM.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

And it is all the motor, there's nothing interfering with it. (This is the first time that I have had a dud motor that has survived my 'infant mortality' test of  at least 10 hours running within the first week from purchase.)

 

However, I can live with it. As Peter Townend's 'Top Shed' describes, the limitation of this design when briefly trialled on KX ECS turns: adequate adhesion, insufficient tractive effort. It can stall like the prototype, and then be given a helping shove by any available loco, and then be 'returned to Neasden'.

[K Hatton]

Has anyone with a sound fitted one of these attempted either of the following yet:

 

Changing/upgrading the speaker?

 

The standard speaker sounds really tinny to me but upon measuring the available space I appreciate there really isn't much room under the circuit board (allowing for mounting points and electrics it's around 14x14x6mm)

 

Fitting a stay alive/power pack?

 

Im struggling to find enough space to fit the genuine ESU small power pack (the gaps beneath the circuit board or the drive shaft from motor to gearbox not being tall enough). 

 

Any suggestions/tips would be welcome. 

Edited August 21, 2023 by K Hatton

[K Hatton]

Following on from the above I've found the ESU power pack will *just* fit underneath the drive shaft by placing it on its side - see picture below.

 

Also found and ordered some speakers that will fit the gap beneath the circuit board so will have a play when they arrive and see what sounds best. 

Edited August 21, 2023 by K Hatton

[No Decorum]

2 hours ago, K Hatton said:

Following on from the above I've found the ESU power pack will *just* fit underneath the drive shaft by placing it on its side - see picture below.

 

Also found and ordered some speakers that will fit the gap beneath the circuit board so will have a play when they arrive and see what sounds best. 

This is very interesting. This model disappointed me. It’s prone to stall and the sound is very weak, even when turned up to full volume. Please let us know how your project proceeds!

[charliepetty]

31 minutes ago, No Decorum said:

This is very interesting. This model disappointed me. It’s prone to stall and the sound is very weak, even when turned up to full volume. Please let us know how your project proceeds!

Thisis a sympton of an unsealed speaker, just take the speaker out of its sound chamber (the speaker has the two sprung tabs on it) then using a small screwdriver make a new gasket using a little bit of white PVA glue, in a thin bead around where the speaker fits on, making sure no PVA gets on the silver diaphram, the reseat the speaker, puse down to seal then leave over night.

 

IF anyone wants some free speakers to replace what you have in the model, send £1.35 to cover the Postage & Fee's, and I will send you some.    You can send it by PAYPAL to:  charlie@dckits.co.uk

 

Or contact DCKits-Legomanbidffo on: pacercharlie2@gmail.com

 

Glad to help.    Charlie

[K Hatton]

Thanks for the offer of the speakers @charliepetty - may be of use to other people.

 

The stock speaker looks to be fully sealed but either way I've got a couple of megabass speakers on the way to test so will see what difference they make. Hopefully one of them should sound much better. 

 

 

@No Decorum sounds like mine and yours may have the same symptoms? It can be sat idling with sound on fine but go to pull away and it moves 2-3mm then cuts out dead? Given a poke/prod the whole procedure repeats.

 

It's usually fine when the wheels are turning but just stalls when setting off. 

Edited September 5, 2023 by K Hatton

[K Hatton]

Powerpack fitted and soldered to chip (fair warning my soldering is not pretty!) and wires routed and secured using blacktac. Body trial fitted and all seems ok so far. 

 

 

Next challenge is to change cvs etc to activate the powerpack and test to make sure I haven't killed the decoder (I'm following a guide on how to do this - see link http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/esuloksound5keepalive.html

 

I know most people would find this child's play but I don't normally solder things this small/mess with delicate electrics so I'm taking one step at a time. 

Edited August 22, 2023 by K Hatton

[K Hatton]

6 hours ago, K Hatton said:

Next challenge is to change cvs etc to activate the powerpack and test to make sure I haven't killed the decoder... 

 

🫣🤬

 

Lesson learned, leave the soldering to other people.

Edited August 22, 2023 by K Hatton

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

On 12/07/2023 at 11:00, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

And it is all the motor, there's nothing interfering with it. (This is the first time that I have had a dud motor that has survived my 'infant mortality' test of  at least 10 hours running within the first week from purchase.)

Must admit this surprised me, so have finally got around to test running it decoderless on DC. It's fine, will run all day, pulls 220mA max at full tilt on the heaviest load it will handle. Nothing wrong there. It's the combination of the MX618 decoder and motor, on which first the motor gets warm, then the decoder goes into toaster mode and protects itself. Out with that, hardwire in a Lenz standard, and it has done three hours full tilt on the same load, and is fine, decoder and motor both cool. 

 

Maybe there's something that could be adjusted on the MX618, but it's not going back into a now socketless A5! I'll give it a whirl in the G5 sometime to see if it behaves there.

[Johan DC]

On 22/08/2023 at 00:11, No Decorum said:

This is very interesting. This model disappointed me. It’s prone to stall and the sound is very weak, even when turned up to full volume. Please let us know how your project proceeds!

With a TXS-decoder (I only fitted it yesterday), the sound is quite strong, no problems there, but it does stall, so a condensator will be next.