Ingleford Wharf: 1870s canalside inglenook on the "M&WJR" in 00, and Victoria Quay: a 1900s WIP in 0

[Schooner]

My mind's been in the gutter recently...

 

 

Just a quick trial, having failed to find reference photos for quite what I'm after, but what do we think? Convincing enough, or laughably implausible?

 

Quick responses get bonus points, as I'd like to smash out the paving this evening... :)

 

Cheers and gone!

[GWR57xx]

Are you replicating a photo?

Looks a bit implausible to me, as the gutter is usually in the road rather than down the middle of the pavement.

Just my tuppence worth…

[Schooner]

On 19/05/2022 at 17:47, GWR57xx said:

Are you replicating a photo?

I know this is the way to do it, but no. You are quite right, it is unusual! I just hope it isn't jarring...?

 

Combining real elements in a rather unrealistic way, aiming for a particular coherence rather than a particular realism and always looking for an excuse to try new techniques in new media...very much the ethos of the entire layout :) 

Edited May 21, 2022 by Schooner
Spelling

[JustinDean]

Street gutters exist in the UK. I think yours looks pretty much bang on. 
 

Jay

[Schooner]

Ideal!

[Schooner]

Some Pleasing:

One nice thing I'm finding with aiming for 'looks right' is how often it is...or at least near enough! Here some drain covers from Severn Models fit well along the edge of the gutter, by chance. Win :) 

 

Less pleasing

It may be time to buy some smaller brushes...

 

 

The 'oh god what have I done'...

...moment of the first wash. Writing this post to avoid looking at it until it's dry to avoid temptation. It'll be fine...after another couple of washes, a very light 'dry brush' sponging, another wash or two and some powders... 

 

Edited May 22, 2022 by Schooner

[Schooner]

Started laying the roadway outside the warehouses, and while it dried thought I'd bite the bullet and have a go at some kits to start building up the GWR c.1890 stock set. To hand were

• A Siphon O1
• 2 x round-end 3-plank opens (David Green kit)
• AA16 brake van (D&S kit)

so that's what I got on with.

 

Caveats

It is not ideal to smash out four kits in a day, on any level. I appreciate this, but it's the balance I've chosen to strike given current time constraints. The rush leads to suboptimal results (eg. I wanted to use a gel glue with a c. 5second grab time and c. 30 set time on the whitemetal kits; I actually used a glue with almost instance grab and set, with inevitable consequences), but I'm okay with that for now and accept that in time I may end up breaking down and rebuilding these guys.

 

Siphon

£15.00 gets you a nice little mixed-media bodykit - card and laser-cut MDF - and 3D printed running gear. Step 1 for me was to seal everything with a coat of primer, then lay up the card laminates in the 'Smart Frame':

 

Assuming I was using it as intended, the little chocks act not as clamps (as I first thought) but as locating lugs to hold each layer of card and the top of the frame in position. The plan was to use spray adhesive on each layer; the reality was brushing on some diluted PVA...next time, stick to the plan! I don't think it's meant to be done like this, but I ended up popping the MDF inserts back in to the frame, top and bottom, and weighting it all to compress the layers of card as the glue dried.

 

 

Ends, sides and door framing dry, I made up the carcass (MDF, well-cut and fitting parts made this a doddle) and applied the card parts, and popped the supplied running gear together

 

...not beautiful, or exactly frictionless, but fine for now. Clean, quick and easy which is appreciated! Pop those on the underside of the frame, insert the wheels and job done!

 

Next time: spray adhesive, and a subsequent coat of filler-primer, would make a better job of the card. It's a pretty low-detail kit, particularly frame and below, so if looking to make something to withstand close scrutiny expect to put in a fair amount of work once the kit is 'finished'. Still, an interesting first for me and well worth the price as entertainment and object.

[Schooner]

3 plank opens

I love these wagons! ...and I sort of love the kits. There are two reasons I'm not totally happy with these, one down to choice, the other inexperience:

Looks square. Should be square. Is not square, thanks to the end stanchions. Magnets powerful enough to break joint if made square. This was annoying. But had I been using a 'better' glue (longer grab and set time), or indeed solder as recommended, the problem could've been nipped in the bud.

 

The other was down to inexperience:

Drilling out axleboxes, as instructed, to take the bearing to flush. Error. This made the gap for between bearings too wide 00, and as a result I've had to bend the W-irons in quite a lot to keep the wagon running smoothly.

 

 

The end result was alright in the end, I think. A bit of filling and fairing to do, and I can be braver in removing flash, but at least it's recognisable! 

 

Next time: Use the right glue! Check fairness of joints constantly. 

 

[Schooner]

And finally, the D&S AA16 

 

So, firstly, this seemed to me an excellent kit...but not excellent condition: sides, ends and solebars were all bent. However, it's comprehensive, well detailed and well made:

 

Much cleaning required...

 

...but it goes together very nicely :)

 

I misunderstood the instructions, so this particular van benefits from having the floor in two parts!

 

Erm, upload limit now seems to be 6kb, sorry...

 

[Schooner]

Solebars, once back to nearly-straight, went on easily:

...but I put this side in the wrong place - partly due to not following the instructions correctly, partly because it moved when I handled the van, mostly cos I was using the wrong glue and couldn't tease it back to the correct positioning (outer face in line with body).

 

This had ramifications for the running gear...

...which took a bit of fettling to get in and working. I was keen to do this having never tried this method of compensation before, and wanting to find out about it. Got there in the end though.

 

Brake gear and details starting to go on* as per the instructions, and now:

End of the Line; a view of the Old Wharf from Ingleford bridge, c.1890

 

Sorry about the horrible formatting. Sorry also to those who feel this is a waste of three quite rare kits - I appreciate it's not a great way to treat them...but needs must, from my point of view. Anyway, thanks for reading, all feedback gratefully received - hit me!

 

*lack of pin-vice has put the lid on any more for today

Edited June 12, 2022 by Schooner

[MrWolf]

Very nice job actually, it's spurred me on to finally build my AA16. I had a really lucky find with mine, given that I have seen them fetch £55-£85 on eBay and I'm unlikely to get another one.

I'd long since wanted to have an outside frame van on my layout, so I've no moral objection to building the kit.

It is after all the original purpose!

Thanks for putting this article up, I'll be watching out for the dodgy bits.

Better finish my 0-4-4T first!

[Schooner]

Always the small bits which take ages! Handrails:

 

Many holes drilled, but not as many as there should be. Shown to highlight how good the kit is, and my choice of compromise in its construction.

 

The first one always goes well, leading to an element of confidence...

 

...which proves shortlived, inevitably. This method for the handrails was picked as a decent balance between speed/ease and aesthetics. The real handrail knobs were small, certainly finer than anything I've got to hand and I reckon they'll best be indicated with a tiny blob of glue drybrushed for emphasis if need be. 

[Schooner]

Lamp irons:

(Quality control. To my surprise I took a file to the one being held to square it up!)

 

 

Footboard hangers:

1) Drill hole in solebar

2) Insert wire (so it sticks out horizontally)

3) Bend down (so it hangs vertically. This is the only one, out of six, which damaged the solebar...sods law it's the one I photographed)

4) Mark the point of the next bend (the vertical beneath the overhanging section); bend out by approx the right angle

5) Bend hanger around solebar so lowest section is vertical, section above overhangs, and the curve around the solebar is nice and snug.

6) Flatten the end to reduce cross-section and increase glueing area.

 

...that was my theory. Any advances?!

 

Operational Pause:

A waft of primer to make it easier to see which areas need filled, faired, cleaned, repaired etc etc. Probably tomorrow's job, lots of the above was immensely frustrating and I've earned a drink!

 

ps. For openness' sake, I must've re-attached the footboards at least four times apiece what with one thing and another; lamp brackets likewise.  There's a real sense that these jobs go well and go first time; or won't go well at all, ever...

 

 

Edited June 14, 2022 by Schooner
First pass at the spelling!

[MrWolf]

Very useful posts and you still haven't put me off!

[NHY 581]

This is all looking very nice. 

 

 

Rob. 

[Schooner]

Quick morning question.

 

I'm not happy with the colour the opens have dried:

 

How much colour manipulation is reasonable to expect with washes and drybrushing? Or is it better to wash off (warm water and toothbrush?) and start over?

 

In other news, the larger warehouse had its cracks filled (shh!) and a spray of white around the windows. I then hope to paint in the window panes using a gloss dark grey and @Mikkel's panel painting technique.

 

The road between warehouses and yard continues to progress too, but is yet to make an interesting photographic study!

 

More by end of the day, with luck...

Edited June 17, 2022 by Schooner
Photo flipped; link added

[longchap]

This skilful build of a lovely kit reminds me that I have a similar outside framed kit, acquired from eBay before covid, resting with an old friend in the UK and finally due to be delivered next month. It may indeed be the same short wheelbase diagram, but I'm most grateful for your posts, which demonstrates just how fine the kit may become.

 

Best,

 

Bill

[Barclay]

I wouldn't worry about the wagon colour myself - weathering and fading washes can make it anything you like. Nice work by the way.

[Schooner]

@longchap you're too kind, really, but I'm glad the posts have been of interest.

 

@Barclay ta, and ta :) Saltport is a major inspiration btw, thanks for stopping by here...and if you ever feel like knocking up one of your gorgeous little industrials in 00....! 

 

I kept mucking about with it, using maaaaany light coats of whatever colour seemed lacking, until it matched my idea of an 'in service' light/warm/bright/deep red (depending on which source you favour for GWR liveries):

The paint build-up is starting to impact the details, but I think they should still be clear enough once the wagons are given a dark wash and a drybrush as part of the weathering.

 

Then, with perfect timing, the postie arrived with a delivery from Fox. Reading the instructions, the newest transfers advocate the use of hot water and give a reminder that the glossier the finish the better. There is a tin of gloss varnish on the 'to order' list...but it's not here yet, so the wagons were given a spray-coat of satin:

 

This was interesting for two reasons - 

• Colour perception. The camera isn't really lying, they did look darker
• Relief perception. The little ...blighters... are covered in grains of chinchilla powder, which must've got stuck into previous paint layers when working on the layout nearby....Note to self, don't just brush loose grains away with abandon...

Hmmm... 4.5mb uploaded, but not able to add any other pics. I'll try to edit them in, brb...

Edited June 17, 2022 by Schooner
...no dice, sorry, new post incoming

[Schooner]

Well, at least it ups my post-count!

 

The lane is ongoing...

...but getting there. Still wet with the latest wash in the above, but you get the idea.

 

Also ongoing is the re-painting of the warehouse...

...which I forgot to photograph properly. Normally a loco getting in the way of wagons, makes a nice change for wagons to be getting in the way of buildings!

 

While we're here, stock numbers were mostly taken from the instructions with each kit. 486 was apparently numbered on the solebar, but I tried that, and it wasn't a goer - the relief is too great. I'm aware one can soften the transfer film, but it seemed like it was asking for trouble so now it is where it is. For those West Country wagon spotters 30724 has been subsequently recorded at Farthing, Wiltshire. I need to source an alphabet to name break van 12009 for Gloucester* (according to D&S - ideal!).  I was keen on one of the first Siphons (Lot 85, 1873 numbers 319-338), but to save breaking into a new row of numerals, opted for one of the second batch (Lot 580, 1878, numbers 510-519) instead.

 

So a pause on stock for now I think. Awaiting chalk destination marking transfers from Railtec, and the letters for 'Gloucester'. Once they're on, I can knock back the satin varnish and make a start on weathering :)

 

*recommendations/suggestions welcome!

 

A note on liveries

'Early' GWR wagons were a shade of red. Their running gear might have been also, unless it wasn't. At some point, after colour printing but before colour photographs, GWR wagons became grey all over.

 

The Rails Mink were all-over red, so that solved that conundrum for me, and I've chosen a shade for the opens which I find pleasing. Feel free to prove it's inaccurate :) It will settle down to a much lighter shade by the time I'm done with weathering but I wanted to start with an 'as new' kind of look, and go from there. All part of the learning process!

 

As to deciding on red vs grey...I haven't :)

 

A note on dates

The GWR set was always meant to be the latest iteration of Ingleford, and with the base set now complete (8 wagons + break; as seen above + 2 x 4 plank opens + 1 Mink from Rapido, in grey), the date has been pinned firmly down to...

[consults notes] "...around about 1900. Ish. Certainly after about 1895 - look at those wagons with their small GWR on the right - but probably before 1905, as there's no sign of the large G W on any of the photographed traffic. Wouldn't be surprised to see a wagon or two with cast plates on, mind. I wonder what colour they were, such a shame the film couldn't pick up the difference..."

 

This, to my mind at least, also excuses stock in both red and grey liveries. Which is handy :)

 

The Siphon

The pushing back of the date to accommodate more RTR does have implications for the little old Siphon. Looking here (thanks again @kada33) we read that an O1 in 1900 would look something like this one. If I'm going to do that, I might as well go for a second Siphon kit and make a better job of the whole thing :)

 

Motive power 

Looking for hints, tips, suggestions etc for a suitable loco. Anyone who says 15XX gets to rebuild the wharf gateway.

 

Wrapping up

Not there yet, but the layout is starting to feel like a little piece of world rather than a perpetual poofight. The three stock sets are kinda all in motion:

• Private, c.1870: loco ready, wagons need to be ordered from 5&9
• Midland Railway, 1880s: loco can be ordered from Hardy's (again) as and when; wagons have been ordered from Mousa back in April, with nothing heard since and the website down...not reassuring...
• GWR, c.1900: loco to be found; stock pretty well sorted, if unfinished.

which is nice. Looking forward to having the bleddy thing up and running!

 

 

I think that'll do for now, thanks for popping by :)

Edited June 17, 2022 by Schooner

[Mikkel]

I've been struggling to wake up today, but this lovely assembly of stock did the trick!  

 

Red, grey and brown liveries, white and grey rooves, "GWR" in three diffferent positions,  tare on this and that plank. Vive la difference 🙂

 

Thanks for description of the AA16 build, very useful. 

 

The lane is superb!

 

PS: I look forward to seeing how the panel painting method works on buildings. Never tried that.

Edited June 18, 2022 by Mikkel

[Schooner]

The postman is keeping the pressure on my workrate!

Cruel close-up indeed...

 

2mm (the two on the upper plank* and one on the solebar) and 4mm chalk destination markings from Railtec. Excellent service and top printing quality too - the 2mm transfers are perfectly legible (under magnification!). The markings are partly to give a sense of place, partly to tell a little story of a hardworking wagon being flung round the country, with nary the time for a wipe-down, to excuse my weathering. It'll be the first go, and with the best will in the world is likely to be heavy-handed. Oh, the chipped RH corner plate was accidental but I decided to roll with it rather than trying to touch in with red.

 

*Must've been loaded alongside a platform for Bath and...the other place!

 

On 18/06/2022 at 09:43, Mikkel said:

I look forward to seeing how the panel painting method works on buildings.

Before:

 

During:

 

After:

 

Lessons:

• There's no excuse for using anything other than a decent fine-tipped brush. I was taught this lesson with window 1, but assumed operator error and only applied the lesson about window 10. Fool!
• Paint consistency - initially aiming for a consistency like milk (c. 50/50 Vallejo acrylic and water), I then thinned it further, seeking more control. Had I switched brushes at this point, the thinning would not have been required and I might have dodged the next issue:
• Wet brush = pigment + water. It does not necessarily equal a loaded brush of well-mixed paint...
• The other difficulty encountered was the panes being filled with the white primer, especially in the corners. Tricky balance as only one coat of primer wasn't really enough...as ever, more, thinner, coats is the answer.
• Takeaway: Anyone should be able to match the results seen above at their first attempt; most will be able to make a better job of it. The technique works!

 

The break van needs a name on the side. Gloucester makes sense for Ingleford's setting and was home for 12009. I was hoping to find it on one of the goods transfer sheets eg

(presumably in 5" letters still? Like Plymouth, Worcester, Slough and Reading in the above...?

 

...but no joy. The next best I've found would be to use an alphabet sheet

from HMRS. My concerns are twofold: print quality, and font size.

 

Anyone able to confirm or refute?

Edited June 20, 2022 by Schooner
Rogue * removal

[Schooner]

On 18/06/2022 at 17:17, Schooner said:

The break van needs a name on the side. Gloucester makes sense for Ingleford's setting and was home for 12009.

Railtec brake van allocations - perfect!

 

But...

...would be a later font. Part of me is tempted by the convenience and accuracy be damned, but not a large part. So, shy of any other suggestions, I'll pull the trigger on the HMRS alphabet sheets at the end of the week.

 

On 18/06/2022 at 17:17, Schooner said:

It'll be the first go, and with the best will in the world is likely to be heavy-handed.

Scrap that. I remembered that one of my wildcard wagons is meant a Cambrian drop-side bringing slates, and so that became the guinea pig for 'looked-after but hardworking wagon, 20+ years in service, not many more left to give' kinda vibe:

 

Fresh eyes and daylight (and seeing massive pics on screen...) have suggested some changes, but I'd love some feedback!

 

Cheers and gone :)

[MrWolf]

I like the scruffy old thing, I take it that you are going with the Cambrian Railways livery? I've got a couple of those wagons myself, but I need to find out livery and numbers for post grouping condition.

[WFPettigrew]

1 hour ago, Schooner said:

I'd love some feedback

 

What I know about Cambrian wagons can be written on a very small bit of paper, but - what era would this wagon be for?  Just that if it's a turn of century or earlier date, then a 20 plus year old wagon would hail from before the RCH 1887 regs (which came into effect I think 1889) - and therefore it would be worth checking what the Cambrian did for wagon brakes before that date.  Some other similar-sized railways (like the Furness which I know slightly more about) went for a single sided single wheel brake arrangement before 1889, as opposed to the single sided double wheel arrangement here.. 

 

Hope this is helpful. 

 

Best wishes

 

Neil