Where can I find etched kits online in OO Gauge?

[Jol Wilkinson]

3 hours ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

I was a bit surprised when buying a "bargain" Maygib Jinty recently as it's the same as the LRM version (although that has a resin boiler)!

 

Another supplier of etched loco kits. Whilst I haven't built my Flatiron yet, looking at the etches it doesn't seem too challenging. Most modern etched kits are pretty well designed.

 

 

 

Jason

Jason,

 

I don't think that the LRM Jinty is the same as the Maygib kit. The latter predates the former by quite some time. AFAIK the LRM kit was designed by John Redrup of LRM to be etched entirely in nickel silver and incorporate the cast resin firebox/boiler/smokebox.

 

For some time Alan Gibson Workshop continued to supply loco kits (which were possibly the Maygib ones) when sufficient orders had been received but the listing seems to have disappeared.

 

Jol

 

Jol

[Mallard60022]

Full etched kits tend to be a large step for a beginner. Having to Roll and shape etched parts for example. Super though they may be, the expectation is that the builder will be fairly experienced.

Despite SEF Kits being mostly White Metal, it is possible to get a really decent 0.6.0 out of some, complete a fairly simple etched chassis and have a working Engine. I'm no great expert but I'd really recommend beginning with these if it's loco's you fancy doing. Soldering White metal is very much more tricky to begin with, BUT it makes you damn careful. 

If you just want to play with Brass with some bits of W.M. then Coaches are for you. Advice is don't start with a Roxy Mouldings one.  Lovely etches but really quite complex.

As someone said right at the start, go for a Comet one, and yes, a Mk 1 Open is probably a more simple start.

Phil 

[Steamport Southport]

1 hour ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

Jason,

 

I don't think that the LRM Jinty is the same as the Maygib kit. The latter predates the former by quite some time. AFAIK the LRM kit was designed by John Redrup of LRM to be etched entirely in nickel silver and incorporate the cast resin firebox/boiler/smokebox.

 

For some time Alan Gibson Workshop continued to supply loco kits (which were possibly the Maygib ones) when sufficient orders had been received but the listing seems to have disappeared.

 

Jol

 

Jol

 

They are exactly the same etches, even the numberplates are the same. The only real difference is the resin boiler in the LRM kit as opposed to a rolled brass boiler in the Maygib.

 

I'll post photos at some point.

 

 

Jason

[jamesinkl]

To start with, wow! That's a lot of replies, and I've liked every one of the post and have taken the time to reply below, and hopefully I have got everyone in there.

You all have given me a LOT of food for thought! See my replies below and hopefully in the order of the posts.

 

James

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@Bucoops Thank you for the links, I've been looking at them and going wow that's a lot of kit, where to start 🤣 What's the difference between brass, whitemetal or a combination of both if in a kit?

@Camperdown I'll make sure to get some proper 60/40 solder then! I'll ask my local model shop if they have some.

 
@The Fatadder Those kits by Warren Shephard goes on the projects list!

@Steamport Southport The FAQ style of the 'Questions/Answers' are really useful there. I'll be compiling those into a document so I can refer to over time, so thank you for that.

I think a wagon kit by Comet would be a safe bet to see how I get on with learning to solder things and won't hit me too much in the pocket then!!

Thank you for the K2 kits etched locomotives and chassis link too! I'm still working my way around RMWeb. It's a massive mammoth of a forum.

@Jol Wilkinson Thank you for the book recommendations, I'll look into that as well. I plan to attend Model Rail Scotland, and thank you for the exhibition name drops, Railex is really near me and I'll make sure to attend that one when it comes around.

@Andy Hayter Thank you for the link for Wizard Models! That seems like a literal goldmine to see what they have especially with Comet kits.

@MJI I'm starting out modelling by doing locomotives and rolling stock first, and the BR Standard locomotives interests me, as it is the era that my dad would tell me about as it was around the time that he would see quite a few of them on the Western Region if I recall correctly. I don't have the room for a layout yet, so doing other projects first before I move house which will enable me to start doing a layout then.

Another reason for this is, I'm getting to research into all of those things that I would eventually build in either kit form, is to learn all about the history of those locomotives, coaches, wagons and so on. It's utterly fascinating, and I feel it's a fun rabbit hole to go down in and could spend hours just learning new things.

@Jeff Smith That's an interesting suggestion about etched chassis to match the bodyshell. What's the differences between say a RTR chassis and an etched one? Is there any benefit to it apart from learning to work with etched kits. The suggestion has kind of piqued an interest now 😅

Yes, a variable solder kit is on the list of things to get. I've been watching a YouTuber called 'The Loco Builder' who did some good videos on building a locomotive along with other bits like the chassis and what kit he was using to build them with. It was insightful!
 

On 28/01/2024 at 17:03, MJI said:

70021 Morning Star was Western Region then Midland Region

 

Early on WR

Later MR

 

So if WR - Comet Sunshine carriage.

If MR - Late LMS PIII carriage, some got to blue grey!

Failing that a Mark 1, cannot go wrong with a TSO.

 

Common stock, not too many doors, will be around to mid 60s Collett, early 70s PIII, early 50s to 1990 Mark 1

Brilliant. Thank you for writing this post and several others afterwards, this has helped me immensely with the next project.

@E100 Hijack away! I'd love to know as well 😂

 

@Dave John Thank you for the links, I'll look into those as well!

@kasyjones I'll definitely look into that, I'll see if there's any that can be subtitled so I can follow along as well. Thank you for the YouTube recommendation as well.

@Mallard60022 I've been spying on eBay for a while and can see some DJH locos there, however what you have said about South East Finecast is really insightful, and this I would've never known if I was googling around so thank you for sharing that information. I'll see if I can contact him and discuss things further down the line. I also appreciate the tips you have provided too. Doncaster is on a weekend when I'm elsewhere however I certainly will see when Tony Wright is exhibiting somewhere else too!

That's good advice. I'll look into whitemetal locomotives first or a combination of both if that is available then. Thank you again.

@30368 Thank you for the recommendation, and most importantly the email address so I can ask them for a catalogue and their advice on what would be suitable for a beginner. Your locos do look really good from PDK and Judith Edge. I bet you get a lot of satisification when you complete a locomotive from the start to the finish and seeing it run! I'm looking to do wagon/coaches first before tackling a locomotive 😀

@Reorte It's always a good place to start, with something small and not expensive and hopefully can always improve later on. Thank you for the advice, and I agree. This hobby is pretty fun and the people involved are really helpful and so on.

[BMS]

For DJH try Clark Railworks        -  part of Ellis Clark and look for OO

[Grovenor]

Found them, https://clarkrailworks.com/

Scrolling down the page reveals a lot of DJH kits at sale prices but it looks rather like a sell off. I didn't see any indication that they are making any more.

 

[Jeff Smith]

The SEF web page, including price list is somewhat out of date - an updated one has been promised for sometime.  SEF is now owned by Squires Tools.  I have built a lot of etched, white metal, 3D and plastic kits - I go for the locos I want regardless of kit type.  I am actually currently building my first SEF kit, a Metropolitan F Class 0-6-2T.  This is a white metal body with n/silver etched chassis.  The chassis comes with spacers for OO and EM; it is fairly easy to build in OO as it comes with threaded brass spacers which can be used to hold the chassis sides level while soldering the etched spacers.  It is designed for a rigid chassis but I am usung the EM spacers for P4 with simple beam compensation for the front two drivers, motor on the ridgid third driver and the trailing wheels sprung down.  This kit is good quality and even includes cab glazing.  You need a motor, g/b (I'm using High Level) and Gibson for the wheels.

 

I get the impression that you have no real commitment to OO so you might want to consider EM.  EM is basically OO but with near to scale rail gauge which improves the appearance considerably.  P4 is even closer to scale but much less forgiving and requires compensation to prevent the wheel flanges riding up on the rails - it also improves current pick-up by keeping all the wheels in contact with the rails.

 

Returning to soldering, you need low-melt solder for white metal and higher temp one for brass, don't use rosin cored electrical solder, I use the same liquid flux for both.  Also essential is a tip cleaner and de-solder braid for solder removal.

[Bucoops]

1 hour ago, jamesinkl said:

To start with, wow! That's a lot of replies, and I've liked every one of the post and have taken the time to reply below, and hopefully I have got everyone in there.

You all have given me a LOT of food for thought! See my replies below and hopefully in the order of the posts.

 

James

-------

@Bucoops Thank you for the links, I've been looking at them and going wow that's a lot of kit, where to start 🤣 What's the difference between brass, whitemetal or a combination of both if in a kit?

 

It's kind of whatever the prominent material is - etched brass (and/or nickel silver) kits will usually have some castings with them, either white metal or sometimes brass castings and some turned parts such as bearings and whistles etc.

 

White metal kits will be predominantly castings, but usually with etched frames.

 

Some kits come with resin castings, sometimes the boiler is made of resin.

 

Etched kits need more shaping of the parts as they come flat - although quite often the boiler will be ready rolled. Usually weight needs to be added to the finished kit as well to aid traction. White metal kits need less shaping - it's not unusual to have to straighten out castings before fitting.

 

Etched kits tend to give a more "crisp" look than white metal.  

[billbedford]

On 26/01/2024 at 22:48, jamesinkl said:

I've been a long time lurker in RMWeb, and have built quite a few plastic wagon kits and have had tremendous fun doing those, however I'm looking to expanding my modelling skill set by doing etched kits, and learning to solder. My issue with etched kits is trying to find retailers, manufacturers or shops that sell them with decent pictures to look at online, so I could decide which ones to get.

 

 

Well, if you are not willing to do the research needed to find suppliers, I don't think you'll be ready for Mousa Models etchings. 

 

Clue: they have no instructions. 

[Jol Wilkinson]

Re solder and flux.

 

145 degree solder is the usual one for brass and nickel silver. I use the one from London Road Models as it has good flow characteristics and, used with a liquid flux, will get into the joints, seams, etc. to create a good joint. I use LRM 12% phosphoric acid flux for brass and n/s.

 

There are higher temperature solders sold for brass and n/s (188, 221 and various others) but I rarely use those. 145 needs a lower temperature for the metal so is easier to get the solder to flow. 

 

White metal needs a "low melt" solder, usually 70 degrees but Carrs also  do a 100 degree version. When fitting white metal components to brass with 70 deg, tin the brass with 145 first. Carrs 100 does away for the need to do this. The alternative is to use glue, such as a good quality epoxy. Flux for w/m is generally less "powerful" than you need for brass, 6% phosphoric being one option.

 

Local model shops often don't carry these items and getting liquid flux through the post is difficult. Most model railway suppliers follow the PO rules, but it appears you can get any corrosive product from eBay suppliers although they use various trade names to disguise what they are selling. A search for phosphoric acid will turn up an wide range of sanitary cleaning products.

 

Some people recommend the use of paste fluxes such as Powerflow of Fluxite. I don't like these but if you use them then thorough cleaning of the model after each session is very important to remove any residue. Liquid fluxes are easier, j just wash the model with warm, slightly soapy water.

 

If you are going to Railex at Aylesbury, several of the traders listed are usually  there so you can get some first hand information on their products.

[Mallard60022]

It would be great if someone somewhere did what Phil Atkinson of Beckingham near Gainsborough did years ago, providing some Expert led Modelling Courses over one or two days; partly residential for some as he had a B & B as well as a purpose build Workshop. Tony Wright did many of these; loved them.

I know that there is at least an Annual meet up by one Manufacturer (Worsley Works I think) but that is just a meet up and folk do their own thing BUT in company where some support would be available.

I'd be very happy to give a few hours free (say about 4 on a day at my place) on Comet Coach building. North Notts. Close to A1 and has an ECML Station.

Phil

[Jol Wilkinson]

13 hours ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

They are exactly the same etches, even the numberplates are the same. The only real difference is the resin boiler in the LRM kit as opposed to a rolled brass boiler in the Maygib.

 

I'll post photos at some point.

 

 

Jason

 

Jason,

 

don't bother with the photos.

 

I had always understood that John Redrup of LRM had designed the LMS Jinty kit available from LRM, so I emailed him last night. Here is his reply.

 

"It was a Maygib kit but, as the body was very good there was no point changing it. It is now etched on 15 thou nickel, and has some slight modifications to compensate for the extra metal thickness. But that is where the similarities end! It has an entirely new chassis, and all the castings  have been re-mastered, mainly in brass, largely using Iain Rice patterns. Also as you say the boiler is now resin, the original was etched brass, brass tube and whitemetal belpaire firebox and very very difficult to build square!"

 

News to me! Presumably he had been supplied with the original artwork (hand drawn I expect), which he had then adapted to suit .015" n/s, deleted the unwanted parts and drawn a new chassis, etc.

 

Jol

[macgeordie]

If you want to start out with a wagon kit or two I produce a few and a lot of our Forum members have purchased and made them so they can report on how well they got on with them.

 

With regards to soldering, I would always use 145 degree solder with a good liquid flux such as the one from the 7mmlocomotives society. Carrs do a range of fluxes but I can't get away with them, I am slightly asthmatic and the Carrs fluxes really affect my chest. I've attached my list if you are interested.

 

Kits price list public.pdf