RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted February 18, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 18, 2016 Very odd, as it is usually colder or damp conditions that cause problems with paint blooming or not finishing correctly. Great job on the detail painting there, I hope I have the patience (and steady hands) enough when I finally get around to finishing* my Cl40. * a very loose term considering I have only half built the bogies before packing everything away for the impending house move (now done). Look forward to the finishing touches of your build, should be a pair of cracking models. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Hi David, Nice to see you looking in!! Very odd, as it is usually colder or damp conditions that cause problems with paint blooming or not finishing correctly. That is what I have often thought and I sprayed inside, at room temperature Great job on the detail painting there, I hope I have the patience (and steady hands) enough when I finally get around to finishing* my Cl40. * a very loose term considering I have only half built the bogies before packing everything away for the impending house move (now done). Does this mean you can make a start again then? Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted February 18, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 18, 2016 Hi David, Nice to see you looking in!! Does this mean you can make a start again then? Cheers Lee Thanks Lee, yes it has been a hectic few months and as for "starting again" all the modelling gear and models are in B&Q plastic truck boxes, it is going to be a good few weeks before I even get around to looking for them let alone the essentials like the Whisky collection! Actually only the third week here now, times flies when you have no idea what you're doing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 it is going to be a good few weeks before I even get around to looking for them let alone the essentials like the Whisky collection! David, Sometimes you just have to get your priorities sorted out Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Pheeewwwww... panic over. Having purchased some more paint and giving the underframe another(!!) coat of Railmatch BR blue I can report all is well. Correct colour with a satin finish I can only assume it was the paint that was giving me the problems as it was over 2 years old and had been opened (so perhaps I should have known better). I thinned to 50/50 paint thinners (HMG), spraying at my usual 10PSI, in the same (approx) room temperature that I have always sprayed. So all's well that ends well... thank goodness. If I get chance later on I shall paint the underframe pipework and then put the bogies back together. Here's the outcome so far: There was a little over-spray but luckily only on the underframe pipework which needs to be painted orange anyway so no real problems with that. I'm quite pleased with the outcome as and quite relieved to say the least Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Well here we go, slowly getting the loco back together. Having re-fitted the motors, delrin chain, wheels and side frames I couldn't resist a pic so I thought I'd share it here: Tomorrows job will be painting the underframe detail areas so that I can finally attach the bogies and leave them. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hi Lee, That build is looking great, but the cutting matt hasn't had any hammer at all. Mine look like a murder scene with all the blood washed off! Regards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hi Vin, Thank you. The cutting mat hardly gets used as I have a couple of A3 sized ones that get all the hammer. Having just looked at the pic, I've realised I've goofed a little with the masking The tiny strip of underframe between base of the cab and the buffer beam I have allowed to be blue.... this should be black.... it is only a tiny error though Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 It seems building locos is a series of successes and failures... or at least minor setbacks. Today has been one of those days with some things going ok and then others not so. I started today by spraying the class 40 underframe and bogie assemblies with another coat of Railmatch Black. All went rather well until I noticed that the surface of one of the loco underframe cross I-beams seemed to be 'peeling'. Upon further inspection It appeared that I had not removed one of the pieces of protective plastic/ cellophane that they are shipped with. Peeling this away (quite easily) then left a nice white unpainted part However, I soon sorted this by mixing up a little etch primer and applying it: Not exactly the end of the world but just a little annoying as I was sure I had removed all of these prior to fitting. So while that lot was busy drying (I always leave a coat of paint for at least 24 hours, etch paint for 48 hours) I decided I'd continue with the Class 20 underframe. A little more careful painting following pics on Flickr for guidance: I have absolutely no idea why I have bothered to paint the air lines on the bogies. Once these are weathered you will never see the white and furthermore it shows off a part that I have not fitted... I guess I am going to have to now as it's bugging me. This took most of the afternoon, along with a little more cab detailing after I finally found a picture (I knew I had seen it somewhere) of the cab bulkhead at high level: I managed to get this finished now and to a point where I am quite happy with the cab detailing. So now its time to mask off the window apertures and then get the cab and body assembled and painted. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 No modelling today as been out chasing these: Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Hi Lee, The cabs are looking good. Which way are you running the cab end lighting? Down and through the solebar? Regards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Down and through the solebar? Hi Vin, What do you mean..... going under the loco frame and then back up into the engine room? I was thinking of just using thin wire to go along the cab wall adjacent to the second mans seat. But if there is another method... I'm all ears Oh yes, I thought of you yesterday when I saw this: Not a bad hoover really Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Hi Vin, What do you mean..... going under the loco frame and then back up into the engine room? I was thinking of just using thin wire to go along the cab wall adjacent to the second mans seat. But if there is another method... I'm all ears Oh yes, I thought of you yesterday when I saw this: 50015 Ramsbottom.jpg Not a bad hoover really Cheers Lee I love 50's, I managed to bag every one back in the day! The refurbished variety pounding down the WR and LSWR to Exeter take a lot to beat! Sadly out of my modelling time frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Hi Lee, I do mean, drill a hole through the underframe where the cabsole is, then wire under the frame and back to the centre. That is possible if you going to glue the cab first. Regards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Hi Vin, Whoops I was thinking about my class 40... sorry. The 20 will definitely have the wires stuck to the cab side and then through the bulkhead at low level. I think I shall employ something similar for the 40 too. Going underneath the cab seems like a lot of work and is likely to get caught. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Hi Lee, Your class 20 and 40 are really coming together now. Must say they look superb. Quite jealous of your day out on the class 40 too, what a beast. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Hi Lee, A couple of pics of 40106 in BR green from over 3 years ago. How can anyone forget building this, but me! The cabs prewired and detailed away from the main body. You can just about see the wires out of the back of the cabs. I think I must have tucked them out of the way for the photo. Part way through painting. I must have sprayed the white line as the transfers must have been put on later. None of these photos have been on here before because the file size was too large for RMweb. Regards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 It seems to have been a while since I managed to get any work done on either the 20 or 40 but over the last few days a little progress has been made. Re-assembling the loco the second time around once painted seems a little more time consuming than I had thought but I'm getting there. Assembling the buffer beam details again I noticed how the tubing that is supplied by JLTRT seemed a little thick and over sized. So I filed down the MU jumper connectors that have cable attached and found some thinner cable that was more accurate: If you compare the cables I'm using with that provided by the JLTRT tubing (on the right) you will probably see what I mean: It took quite a while to get everything to fit but I think you will agree they look better: With the buffer beams complete (both ends) it does seem like it's starting to come together now: I have the cab and body joined, masked and covered in etch primer. However the coat of primer highlighted a few spots where joins were evident so a bit more filler and more smoothing down was required. I have now managed to get the body work to this stage: All ready for white primer on the ends for the yellow and then the dreaded masking prior to the banger blue.... perhaps I may go over the exposed areas of bodywork with a dusting of etch primer..... a little unsure about that at the moment. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium keefer Posted March 9, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2016 jumper cables etc. might, to some, seem to be just minor details but when you're trying to get everything else accurate, why spoil it with pipes that aren't right? like what you've done there and it does make such a difference. seems to happen quite a bit in 4mm - jumper cable and dummy socket wrong way round, wrong shape of jumper socket etc. class 40-wise, the Bachmann one manages to have ok looking jumper sockets on the bufferbeam, but the ones on the side of the bogie (which should be the same size) way overscale and stick out. good work there, looking forward to seeing them completed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Hi Lee, I haven't ever used the rubber piping in the kits and have just put them to one side. Maybe one day I'll think of a use? I either use 1.2mm wire with the centre cores removed or 1.6mm dia heat shrink so it attaches to the fittings. This can be done for both multiple working cables or ETS fittings. Your class 20 is looking great and should be finished soon. I just hope 37423 goes the same way? Regards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 jumper cables etc. might, to some, seem to be just minor details but when you're trying to get everything else accurate, why spoil it with pipes that aren't right? like what you've done there and it does make such a difference. seems to happen quite a bit in 4mm - jumper cable and dummy socket wrong way round, wrong shape of jumper socket etc. class 40-wise, the Bachmann one manages to have ok looking jumper sockets on the bufferbeam, but the ones on the side of the bogie (which should be the same size) way overscale and stick out. good work there, looking forward to seeing them completed Hi Keefer, Thanks for your comments. I certainly agree about the OO gauge class 40's that I have seen. The bogie side mounted MU coupling is always way too big and stands really proud of the bogie side. Certainly a fix if there ever was one.... I guess you could chop the plastic molded cable off and replace it with very small dia. electrical cable comparable to that used in wiring up decoders or something??? Hi Lee, I haven't ever used the rubber piping in the kits and have just put them to one side. Maybe one day I'll think of a use? I either use 1.2mm wire with the centre cores removed or 1.6mm dia heat shrink so it attaches to the fittings. This can be done for both multiple working cables or ETS fittings. Your class 20 is looking great and should be finished soon. I just hope 37423 goes the same way? Regards Vin Hi Vin, I think that the cable I have used is 1.2mm and I'm quite pleased with the overall results despite the amount of time it took to file the fittings down. I also 'roughed up' the cable with a bit of wet and dry too to take that shininess off I'm sure 37423 will be superb. Keep up the great work on it... I am getting very tempted now by the JLTRT 37. But none of this new fangled loco malarky.... it would have to be 37175 in banger blue or something that was prevalent around Eastfield in mid 1980's Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 Progress is so slow at the moment as the waiting in between coats of paint is holding the job up! However, that said, I have managed to get the white primer and yellow done on the ends of the loco. In my haste I sprayed over the white primer after only giving it about 3 hours to dry so I'm hoping nothing goes awry. Well here you are, first off the loco ends with Railmatch white primer: Finally starting to look like a loco with the yellow: I'm hoping to get another two coats of yellow done tomorrow then I guess that's it for several days until the enamel hardens fully. Then I can begin the dreaded job of masking the yellow off. I have also got my fingers crossed that the windows have been masked off properly too, otherwise I'll have an awful mess to sort inside the cab Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 That class 20 is crying out for a sound decoder!! I think you said you are running on DC? If so, I think some decoders will work on DC but with some sound functions limited. Seems a shame not to fit sound, it's a cracking model! :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 That class 20 is crying out for a sound decoder!! I shall fit a decoder at some point..... perhaps the locksound XL V4.0 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 I managed to get the last coat of yellow sprayed onto the loco today. So now I wait in order to mask off these areas so that I can spray the blue. I have a question: How long is advisable before putting the masking tape on following the yellow paint application? (I have some Frog Tape which is low tack) Any help would be gratefully received. Many thanks Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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