HealeyMills Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 Hi Ken, Thank you for your suggestions, they are always helpful. For the time being I don't need to solder any more of those pesky SMDs... but when I do I now have two methods for holding them still while I zap them!! I had not thought about transfers... that is a superb idea. I shall send an email to Rail-tec ... Hmmm, I wonder if he would be interested in doing cab gauges as well as body frame gauges??? On the up-side... I have just been to look at how all the parts have dried and I can report.... they are a really nice satin solid black. I am really pleased with how they have dried. I do need another coat on them to ensure full coverage but on the whole.... what a result!!! Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hi, Lee, Just been playing catch up on the 20 build. Many thanks for this thread - most informative and entertaining! Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Hi Pete, Thanks for stopping by, glad you're enjoying the thread. Right, having been sent some more nickle silver wire by JLTRT I needed to complete the handrail on the loco right hand side. This job of test fitting these is a bit fiddly, firstly getting the handrail fixings onto the wire then getting them (and keeping them) in the right place on the wire aligned with the holes that I drilled using a 0.7mm drill bit. So after a little faffing about here we are: The section nearest the camera appears a little wobbbly purely because I have not pushed home a couple of the handrail fixings and it will be adjusted once I permanently fix it to the loco. For now the handrail will be removed as it will remain in the nickle silver finish and I can imagine the rail itself will become damaged through handling whilst spraying the loco body. Not much to show for a couple of hours work is it?? Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Another update of work done so far..... The horn grill plates on the roof have been lengthened with some 0.25mm plasticard. As these did not butt up against the existing horn grill plates I had to apply a little filler and spend some time sanding so that there (hopefully) won't be any visible join once the loco body is sprayed. Here's the outcome: The remaining jobs I can do now that don't involve spraying the loco are slowly diminishing but one that needs to be done is that of the lighting. Initially the loco will be DC so the lights won't be connected. However, at some point in the future I shall add a decoder with sound and then be in a position to connect up the lighting. For the nose I have used diffuse warm white and red tower LEDs. In the pictures you'll notice how the headcode lights look a little too white but I think this is my camera struggling with the room lighting as in reality the LED's look ok to be honest. Anyway here's the outcome of the last bit of todays work: All this is achieved by soldering a few resistors onto a small piece of veroboard, indvidual resistors for the tail lights and one for the headcode lights that are wired in series. Using a common negative the LED's are powered via their individual resistor and decoder function switch. I have used a four-way connector so that I can test the decoder voltage output on a similar set-up breadboard before fitting it to the loco LEDs and hopefully reduce the risk of damaging them: Tomorrow I need to attempt the cab front lighting and I don't think that will be so easy. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
piranha230 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 You can buy the 0603 led,s and others pre wired and already soldered on ebay really cheaply from china in many colours. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 You can buy the 0603 led,s and others pre wired and already soldered on ebay really cheaply from china in many colours. Hi Piranha230, Thank you for that. If everything goes horribly wrong I may investigate that further. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Things are still progressing with the class 20 and I've managed to get the cab front lights working and just to prove that I've not been slacking: These are the pesky tiny SMDs and have been a right pain in the _ _ _ _ to sort out! I eventually opted for Ken's suggestion of a board to which the SMD's are mounted: The plan is that this will slot in between the cab front wall and the drivers console. There are still no lenses in the cab front light.... another job to do. However, with the console milled to remove about 2mm off the back it is easy to fit the SMD mount into it and also still retain enough of the console material for it to be able to clip onto the inside of the cab front: I intend to use Railmatch cab interior grey to spray the cab... I think this is the correct colour but if anyone has any other suggestions please feel free to post here. It's a real shame that JLTRT no longer sell their cellulose based spray paints as their colours were absolutely spot on. Oh and if that is not enough work..... I've also been busy building the class 40 I purchased at the same time. So far I've assembled the bogies and sprung the centre wheelset, wired the pickups and added as much of the bogie side frame and under frame details as I can. In addition I spent most of yesterday sorting out all the white metal parts (how I hate smoothing out white metal!!) and fitting the underframe air tanks with connections...... here's a pic of some of where I'm at with my class 40 too: The underfame details (air tanks) with the nickle silver rod soldered... Hoooraaay!!!: and the boiler water tanks fitted: Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Lee, Nice to see your soldering coming along!! Looking good!! I got in touch with Spraywell in Dudley, as apparently they used to supply the cellulose paint for JLTRT. (Their phone number was on the can) spraywellpaints@btconnect.com 01384 456069, I spoke with Gary, who supplied me with a comprehensive list of railway colours available . I bought a can of diesel cab grey and a couple of cans of Rail Blue from them. They have a massive range, most of which are equivalent to Railmatch colours. I believe they also sell cellulose in tins. No connection with the company, but a happy customer! In all honesty, you are probably better off using Railmatch through your airbrush just for the cab interiors, or brush it on with a little thinner added. For the body, cellulose goes on nice and smooth, dries very quickly and is hard wearing. Also when you muck about with the weathering, the cellulose stays put! I still prefer to use the airbrush as you have much more control of the volume of paint applied. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Hi Richard, Yes, I'm quite pleased with how my soldering is improving..... thanks of course to yourself for the pointers!!! I may give Spraywell a call. I know what you mean about having the control with an airbrush but I do remember having surprisingly good results with those JLTRT cellulose spray cans, especially the under frame satin black... gorgeous!! I won't be doing any spraying for a couple of weeks yet so it gives me a little time to get things organised and in the mean time it gives me plenty of time to get both of my locos to a point where thy are ready for the spray shop together... at least that way I only have to clean up the utter mess I make once Oh and here's the Class 40 together with most of the under frame well on it's way to being finished - I did not add the buffers (which work like a dream ) or pony axles for the pic though: Thanks for contributing to the thread, its always nice when people do Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jcarta Posted January 25, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 25, 2016 Lee You asked me about spring loading the centre wheels of each bogie on my tractor and I have heard you have manage to do your Class 40 ones, can I ask how you have done yours so I can see if this works on my loco..... Pictures would help immensely. Looking good .... soon they will be running around .... Thanks Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 The class 40 underframe and bogie detail is all done. Here's a couple of test fitting photos: I have left the rear sanding pipes on both bogies off as I am not sure that I can remove the bogie side frames with these fitted. In the instructions it clearly states that they obstruct the bogie sideframe removal. The motors are out of the bogies too in readiness for the spray shop I just need to add the headcode/ tail light LEDs now and get them wired into the loco cab fronts (tomorrows job). Once the cab internals are sprayed I can start putting the body together.... then I will have two locos ready for bodywork spraying The class 20 is now at the stage of awaiting bodywork spraying so hopefully I will get the opportunity within the next few weeks. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jcarta Posted January 29, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2016 Seriously looking awesome .... Looking forward to the spray jobs on both of these fine loco's Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Not too many updates on here recently and I had to dig a bit to find my thread, but I've just been busy prep'ing the locos for spraying. Obviously they are at different stages but both need their cab interiors spraying as this is stopping any further progress now. I managed to get hold of some of the Viakal cleaner that Martyn mentioned a few pages back and it has cleaned the locos a treat. I made sure I did the cleaning with a pair of latex gloves on so that I did not add any grease to the surfaces to be painted. Now clean they are all drying in boxes inside the airing cupboard. I have been doing a bit of thinking about pickups used on O gauge locos...... it seems like it is the 'norm' to use plunger pickups which, granted, do seem to do the job ok providing that you do not have them pushing hard against the back of the wheels. I have wondered why no one seems to use, say, thin strips of phosphor bronze as wiper pick-ups???? I'm assuming this has been tried and there are pitfalls.... so at the expense of re-inventing the wheel, why don't people use this method of pick-up? Hopefully my next update will be lots of painted/ sprayed images of the locos Then its time to start assembling the cabs to the remaining bodywork. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Probably two reasons that occur to me: 1. They are more difficult to hide and, 2. They are more difficult to attach securely, esp on resin bogies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Resin bogies just cry out for split axle pick up! Splitting axles is beyond me but I think Steph Dale charged around £10.00 per axle. A descreet wire is soldered between the wheel tread and axle, and the wire is soldered from the bearing to the motor. No pesky pick ups adding drag or to adjust. Job done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Probably two reasons that occur to me: 1. They are more difficult to hide and, 2. They are more difficult to attach securely, esp on resin bogies. Resin bogies just cry out for split axle pick up! Splitting axles is beyond me but I think Steph Dale charged around £10.00 per axle. A descreet wire is soldered between the wheel tread and axle, and the wire is soldered from the bearing to the motor. No pesky pick ups adding drag or to adjust. Job done! Hmm, that's food for thought on both counts. Thank you for your posts. .... right back trying to find out where to buy Railmatch Diesel Cab Grey or an equivalent Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Lee, Howes models Oxford: https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/subcat/RailMatch%20Paint%20-%20Enamel Or if you want cellulose, Spraywell in Dudley. The cellulose was a perfect match to my Railmatch enamel diesel cab grey. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Lee, Howes models Oxford: https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/subcat/RailMatch%20Paint%20-%20Enamel Or if you want cellulose, Spraywell in Dudley. The cellulose was a perfect match to my Railmatch enamel diesel cab grey. Thank you. I was trying to find out where I could buy it local to me (West Yorkshire) as the cost of delivery of one or even two jars is high. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren haywood Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Thank you. I was trying to find out where I could buy it local to me (West Yorkshire) as the cost of delivery of one or even two jars is high. Cheers Lee Hi Lee, I'm guessing as Healey Mills your not a million miles from me. If you bring a small jar I can sort some out although it will be for airbrushing. Ps I'm in a Ossett Warren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Hi Lee, I'm guessing as Healey Mills your not a million miles from me. If you bring a small jar I can sort some out although it will be for airbrushing. Ps I'm in a Ossett Warren Hi Warren, Thank you once again for your offer of the Railmatch paint. Luckily I managed to get a couple of jars today from a local model shop (which I never knew existed). I have to say though I was quite surprised at the colour... not very 'Grey' is it?? Oh and by the way..... I had a look at your work on your website. WOW!!!!! Utterly staggering. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren haywood Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Hi Warren, Thank you once again for your offer of the Railmatch paint. Luckily I managed to get a couple of jars today from a local model shop (which I never knew existed). I have to say though I was quite surprised at the colour... not very 'Grey' is it?? Oh and by the way..... I had a look at your work on your website. WOW!!!!! Utterly staggering. Cheers Lee Thanks Lee, The paint I was offering is cellulose, never been a fan of Railmatch, I think some of the colours are very suspect and it doesn't like sticking to itself, triple grey diesels comes to mind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Thanks Lee, The paint I was offering is cellulose, never been a fan of Railmatch, I think some of the colours are very suspect and it doesn't like sticking to itself, triple grey diesels comes to mind. Thank you all the same, very much appreciated. I guess I have that Railmatch lesson to learn Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 It's been a good while since I added anything to this thread. As I had mentioned before I've been busy with preparing for spraying and painting so there is never really anything to show for that. Well not until you get all the paint on First off I've managed to finish the class 20 cab and also the buffer beam. I'm not quite sure what is happening with the Railmatch BR Blue that I have applied though as it is coming out with a matt finish. I have just obtained a new jar of the stuff so hopefully tomorrow things may change as I was certain that the finish should be satin. Once the masking tape is removed I will post a pic. In the meantime here are a couple of photos of the work done on the cab: Also the class 40 as pretty much at the same stage with cabs done and a final coat of Railmatch black. Once again some photos of the cabs: Hope that keeps you pacified for a while until I can get both of the loco under frames etc out of the paint shop. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 "I'm not quite sure what is happening with the Railmatch BR Blue that I have applied though as it is coming out with a matt finish. I have just obtained a new jar of the stuff so hopefully tomorrow things may change as I was certain that the finish should be satin." I'm not a paint expert, but it may be the temperature of the spray area may have been a little warm? I had the same problem when I sprayed my thumper last year. I stripped the paint off and sprayed in a cooler temp and it went on with a satin finish as was hoped. May have been a fluke, could have been the mix of paint to thinners.......................... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I'm not a paint expert, but it may be the temperature of the spray area may have been a little warm? Hmm, I wasn't aware that it could be too warm, I always thought the issue was spraying in the cold weather that would cause problems. Tomorrow I shall make sure I keep the heating turned off all morning before I start spraying. The odd thing is that it is approximately the same conditions as when I sprayed the class 20 & 40 under frames with Railmatch black and that came out fine. I am starting to wonder if it is the paint as when I look at the colour it is rather darker than I would expect for BR blue.... almost with a purple tinge to it. Thank you for your advice and help. Watch this space as they say Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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