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Hi Phil,

 

No waaaaaayyyyyyy.  I love your thread... especially when there are pictures of hydraulics in the sun  :good_mini:

 

I have to admit I do find it a little dis-heartening though when you take the time to take pics and then write a few words in a post and no-one comments, but I am guilty of this too with others' threads :(

 

The beauty of t'interweb eh???

 

Cheers

Lee

Like buttons have a lot to answer for IMO & I am much more brief than I used to be .....why bother? 

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To Lee and Phill....

Please guys....keep things going....

There are many of us on here who really appreciate your threads...

Over time, they will become a reference and I for one constantly browse threads such as yours for inspiration.

I've been on RMweb for years but I've only posted 440-odd contributions in that time.

I'm not very talkative and get quite embarrassed and I don't have the encyclopaedic knowledge of railways that some seem to have.

I model trains because I like them but don't ask me for any details 'cos I won't know the answer.

That's where people like you come in...

 

I have only piped up when I've got a bee in my bonnet...take my Bluetooth sounds for example.

Hardly anyone has shown an interest in what I've had to say but I haven't become disheartened.

Someone somewhere might make use of my contributions.

 

So...don't get down

Take heart in the fact that your 'Views' count keeps on climbing.

regards

Randall

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This will probably be the last installment of my 40118 build as she is just about complete now.  Since the last lot of pictures were taken I've added buffer beam details, made up some of the CPL couplings, added most of the windows (I'm just waiting on some new side windows as the initial ones were curved so much that the glue I use would not retain them - Cyano is a big NO NO), fitted the drivers/ second mans seats and door way handrails..... oh yes and fitted the buffers.  What a job that was but thanks to Brian (as always) for his help  :clapping:

 

The last few jobs to do are to fix the scavenger fan and its roof grille, fix cab side windows and add the white vacuum pipes (again).  I have fitted these once but removed them because the I-beams that run across the underframe kept knocking onto them.   I am trying to keep the ride height as low as I can between bogie and body so there is a bit of a clearance issue.  Additionally, the pipes themselves are too long in the kit and I should have shortened them as on the real loco they return back underneath the body earlier.

 

Anyway, enough of my wittering on, here's a few (almost) finished pics (Vac pipes plonked on temporarily):

 

post-4186-0-54017500-1463241409_thumb.jpg

 

post-4186-0-89472000-1463241412_thumb.jpg

 

post-4186-0-21917700-1463241415_thumb.jpg

 

So to those that have contributed here, I'd like to say thank you for your help and patience.  In particular a thank you to Cav (RBE) for his help with the loco front detailing,  Brian (for just about everything that went wrong) and Vin for his guidance too.

 

Next builds.... 40060 & 40126.... watch this space as they say!!!

 

Thanks for looking in.

 

Cheers

Lee

 

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Looks great. You forgot to mention the windy wipers still to put on  :jester:  The next ones will be a breeze, you will wonder what all the fuss was about.

 

Thanks Brian.  Yes, I remembered about the windy wipers as soon as I'd posted.  They need a coat of etch primer too so will wait until I have other stuff to do and will probably then go on once the loco is weathered.... can't keep it ex-works for ever  :no:

 

These kits are getting easier I have to admit, but it's a big help to have the knowledge base here when you get stuck :D

 

Cheers

Lee

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Hi Lee,

That class 40 looks superb. Looking forwards to 40060 now, if and when you get round to weathering 118 it would be nice to see a few pics.

 

All the best Peter.

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All this great 7mm work is tempting me to go 7mm myself!! Top stuff.

I think you would do a very nice 7mm class 47. Or what about a 7mm version of you 45110, that would be a beast.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Peter,

 

Thank you for your compliment.  I'm not sure how long it will be before I have a go at weathering the loco as I am worried about damaging the paintwork/ varnish.  I have a spare loco body that has been sprayed exactly the same as I have done with the 20 and 40 to use as a test bed (I have already used it for an experiment with decals).  Once I am confident I can weather a loco, firstly without damaging it and secondly without making an utter mess, then I shall attempt my latest builds.  I shall post piccies once done.

 

Oh and just for you, as I know you're a fan of the East Lancs Railway :mosking:  :

 

post-4186-0-85832300-1463472684_thumb.jpg

 

I was out at the weekend having a day off from loco building photographing potential build projects :D  It's nice to be back in 'summer time' with NB locos running again.

 

I think you would do a very nice 7mm class 47. Or what about a 7mm version of you 45110, that would be a beast.

 

Cheers Peter.

 

There will be no Duffs or Peaks on this thread!!!!!  :jester:

 

Cheers

Lee

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Hi Lee,

I have just picked up my JLTRT Hymek and class 22!!

I was surprised to find the Hymek bogie frames are white metal....still, gives me something to solder :-)

 

Hi Grumps,

 

I've been waiting nearly a month for my class 40's.... but they should be here on Thursday.... I hope!!!

 

I'll be watching your Hymek build and I was surprised to see that the Hymek bogies are Commonwealth bogies.  I only noticed this last Sunday whilst taking lots of piccies.  If you need any detail photos let me know.

 

Cheers

Lee

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Hi Grumps,

 

I've been waiting nearly a month for my class 40's.... but they should be here on Thursday.... I hope!!!

 

I'll be watching your Hymek build and I was surprised to see that the Hymek bogies are Commonwealth bogies.  I only noticed this last Sunday whilst taking lots of piccies.  If you need any detail photos let me know.

 

Cheers

Lee

 

Thanks Lee,

I will probably need several!!

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Peter,

 

Thank you for your compliment.  I'm not sure how long it will be before I have a go at weathering the loco as I am worried about damaging the paintwork/ varnish.  I have a spare loco body that has been sprayed exactly the same as I have done with the 20 and 40 to use as a test bed (I have already used it for an experiment with decals).  Once I am confident I can weather a loco, firstly without damaging it and secondly without making an utter mess, then I shall attempt my latest builds.  I shall post piccies once done.

 

Oh and just for you, as I know you're a fan of the East Lancs Railway :mosking:  :

 

attachicon.gifD7076 Rawtenstall 15May2016.jpg

 

I was out at the weekend having a day off from loco building photographing potential build projects :D  It's nice to be back in 'summer time' with NB locos running again.

 

 

There will be no Duffs or Peaks on this thread!!!!!  :jester:

 

Cheers

Lee

No worries Lee,

I am sure you will work it out having a spare body to practice on is a good idea. Even playing around with a few wagons ( I don't mean a Peak) will build up your skills.

 

Nice to see you getting a bit of sun and a day out riding on a few diesels. I do quite rate that Hymek had it a few years ago. Not as good as a Peak though. :P

 

Cheers Peter.

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Yes I'd love to build either it would be awesome but the cost is huge for essentially an ornament!

Agree with you there Cav, I have a Heljan 7mm class 27 which I picked up last year which I had been saving for. Since then it's sat in it's box. I would like to a small shunting layout one day but don't seem to have much time for Llanbourne at the moment.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Well my Class 42 turned up today, but it will have to stay in the box until I have time to give to the railway, bloomin' annoying this moving house and finding it is more than just a redecoration project!  :O

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  • 2 weeks later...

Having received my two class 40's last week from JLTRT I'm already well on the way with 40060.  Having read a little on split axle pick-up I thought I would have a go myself to see what I could achieve.  I used Steph Dales web page as a guide:

 

http://www.euram-online.co.uk/tips/splitaxle/splitaxle.htm

 

Here he outlines several methods for splitting axles, but uses Slater wheels rather than what I have been using, the Roxey Mouldings wheels.  I've attempted Stephs method 1 for axles with only delrin chain drive and method 2 for gearbox axles:

 

post-4186-0-28955100-1464284812.jpg

 

post-4186-0-09697200-1464284815_thumb.jpg

 

They weren't too difficult to do in all honesty but using 1.0mm HSS drill bits was a non-starter as I used 5 to drill 3 holes!!! I now have some Cobalt 1.0mm drill bits which do the job nicely.  Purchasing a Piercing Saw and some Devcon 2ton epoxy I was able to follow Stephs step-by-step guide.  However, not everything has worked out as planned and whilst fitting a gearbox that I had not aligned properly one of the split axles broke:

 

post-4186-0-70664100-1464284813_thumb.jpg

 

But hey nothing ventured nothing gained I guess.  I shall probably only have one split axle per bogie, fitted on the axle that is driven by the Delrin chain and have to accept that I only have one axle picking up on that side (it's one more than I had before :) ).  Obviously that will be reversed for the second bogie and therefor there will be three wheels picking up power from each rail.

 

Thanks for looking in.

 

Cheers

Lee

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That's a Lee, annoying to say the least...I have toyed with the idea but so far kept away from split axles, I wondered about turning the axle centre (12mm or so) down a few mill and sleeving (after taking a mill off one stub after cutting the axle) with a delrin or some sort tube, I thought it might be easy and more robust...but hey, who knows?  :stinker:

 

Once my workshop is up and running again...time table...end of never!  :O  I might start playing again.

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That's a ###### Lee, annoying to say the least...I have toyed with the idea but so far kept away from split axles, I wondered about turning the axle centre (12mm or so) down a few mill and sleeving (after taking a mill off one stub after cutting the axle) with a delrin or some sort tube, I thought it might be easy and more robust...but hey, who knows?  :stinker:

 

Once my workshop is up and running again...time table...end of never!  :O  I might start playing again.

 

Hi David,

 

I'm sure there are many methods to split axles, I do like your idea but I have limited resources in terms of machinery etc to be able to do a 'proper job'.  The fact that the axle broke when it did is really a relief as I would have been quite annoyed had it been running and then broke. Back to the drawing board I guess if I want more axles split.

 

Nice to see you still popping by to watch my modelling calamities :D

 

Cheers

Lee

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Hi Lee,

 

Good on you for trying!!

I'm toying with the idea for my Hymek and 22 trailing bogies, and its encouraging that you have tried and to be honest, had a good success rate for your 1st attempt! I will be using Slaters axles and my trials and tribulations will be aired on my thread for all to see!!

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I'm toying with the idea for my Hymek and 22 trailing bogies, and its encouraging that you have tried and to be honest, had a good success rate for your 1st attempt! I will be using Slaters axles and my trials and tribulations will be aired on my thread for all to see!!

 

Hi Grumps,

 

Thank you.  I'm still pondering what to do for splitting the power axle...... maybe it's a no go but unless you try I guess you don't get anywhere.

 

Will you only have one motor in each of your locos?

 

Are you going to GoG Doncaster???

 

Cheers

Lee

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