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Building a G.W.R. Castle + more in 7mm OF from a JLTRT kit restarts on P.88 by OzzyO,


ozzyo

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The JLTRT listing for the County says:

"GWR 4-6-0 County Class Loco

Traditional etch brass 7mm Steam Loco kit formerly from the Malcolm Mitchell range.

Kit builds into an exquisite 7mm to the foot loco"

Are you suggesting that they are fibbing?

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What was the purpose of the condenser in the cab roof?

 

Let's bear in mind that this kit was, I believe, designed by Malcolm Mitchell, not JLTRT, and his kits were light years ahead of everyone except Martin Finney at one time.

Sadly, not being a WR man, I can't see me ever making any of his kits. Martin Finney, on the other hand..........

Jeff

 

The condenser is to cool and thereby condense steam, at steam chest pressure, to supply the sight feed lubricator with water.

This displaces oil, which is fed to the steam chests, and lubricates the valves and pistons.

 

If you want more details, I'd have to go looking!

 

Best

Simon

 

Edit to remove stupid error - the vast majority of GW locos don't have slide valves ( I'm sure there's an exception). Sorry!

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The JLTRT listing for the County says:

"GWR 4-6-0 County Class Loco

Traditional etch brass 7mm Steam Loco kit formerly from the Malcolm Mitchell range.

Kit builds into an exquisite 7mm to the foot loco"

Are you suggesting that they are fibbing?

In short, yes.

 

If you look back through Malcolm's own adverts in MRJ right through to the time he sold his range on to JLTRT, nowhere will you find a Hawksworth "County".

 

I think JLTRT used Malcolm's name as publicity for the new stuff, even if he had no actual hand in the design. It's a way of protecting the kudos that came with the name. Or, if you prefer, "marketing".

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Personally I don't give a toss as to who had a hand in it's design, as long as it looks the part it is good enough for me.

 

One of my last builds was the JLTRT 42xx, and I am well " chuffed " as to how well that has turned out, our choice of kits would become quite limited if JLTRT decided to pull the plug on their entire range.

 

post-7101-0-25471800-1395912902.jpg

 

Martyn.

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Yes they are lovely kits but JLTRT kits are useless for Southern or Eastern modellers.

If you mean steam, yes. But when you look at the coaches and Diesels not quite true. As the owner of the Co. models Ex. G.W.R. /L.M.S. would you spend £xx,xxx  developing something that you don't want?

The S.R and the L.N.E.R. are quite well covered by other kit manufactures that have good names, so why duplicate what they do?

 

Or someone wanting a certain prototype diesel........

You did contact them about the said prototype, IIRC they would do it if you put some money in to the pot. 

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. I model L.M.S. but I'll build any loco as it pays me. It's just that a lot of people want G.W.R. locos.

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If you mean steam, yes. But when you look at the coaches and Diesels not quite true. As the owner of the Co. models Ex. G.W.R. /L.M.S. would you spend £xx,xxx  developing something that you don't want?

The S.R and the L.N.E.R. are quite well covered by other kit manufactures that have good names, so why duplicate what they do?

 

 

You did contact them about the said prototype, IIRC they would do it if you put some money in to the pot. 

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. I model L.M.S. but I'll build any loco as it pays me. It's just that a lot of people want G.W.R. locos.

Yeah sorry about that!!
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Hello all,

 

AFAIK the County kit is pure J.L.T.R.T. I think that someone got carried away with cut and paste or copy.

Some of the last parts going on the body for now.

The small front handrail above the buffer plank, the Counties were about the only G.W.R. tender locos fitted with a front step,

post-8920-0-94863600-1396099981_thumb.jpg

 

The hook for the front coupling,

post-8920-0-09587000-1396099995_thumb.jpg

 

The first part of the four parts that make up the boiler handrail,

post-8920-0-94879400-1396100012_thumb.jpg

 

The second part,

post-8920-0-87962100-1396100028_thumb.jpg

 

A close up of one of the reasons why. The bend at the rear of the ejector,

post-8920-0-02332000-1396100067_thumb.jpg

 

The second reason why I do the handrails in parts, the bend by the ejector elbow,

post-8920-0-95154700-1396100082_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-24458800-1396100101_thumb.jpg

 

The last part, the bend over the front of the smokebox. Trying to get all of these bends in the correct place out of one length of wire is to my mind just too much,

post-8920-0-39010000-1396100128_thumb.jpg

 

and in place,

post-8920-0-77119500-1396100144_thumb.jpg

 

All of the parts have still to be soldered in place. This will be done at the handrail pillars,

post-8920-0-26969700-1396100160_thumb.jpg

 

and some front and side views,

post-8920-0-75802700-1396100226_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-42168300-1396100210_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-68723000-1396100243_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-32703100-1396100257_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-34550600-1396100270_thumb.jpg

 

What you now see of the cab,

post-8920-0-24504100-1396100192_thumb.jpg

 

We were thinking about adding the inside valve gear, so I made up the eccentrics to see what they looked like, quite nice,

post-8920-0-66059100-1396100284_thumb.jpg

 

All of the parts for the inside motion laid out. We decided not to use it on the County with it having a low pitched boiler and the long splasher, what would you see? The kit looks to have all of the parts that you would need to make a very nice job of the valve gear,

post-8920-0-00313100-1396100303_thumb.jpg

 

A couple of drawings of the motion,

post-8920-0-25390500-1396103320_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-96343700-1396103314_thumb.jpg

 

Starting work on the cylinders and slide bars, on this side I've still to cut off the extension of the rear cylinder casting, I'm not sure if I need to do it but I always do, habit I suppose,

post-8920-0-75996800-1396100320_thumb.jpg

 

The opposite side with it cut off,

post-8920-0-02989400-1396100340_thumb.jpg

 

Starting work on the cross-heads and piston rods,

post-8920-0-70698100-1396100354_thumb.jpg

 

OzzyO.

 

 

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Incredible work, the handrail is just spot on.

 

Why do you cut off the rear of the cylinder casting? I would have thought that the more the piston rod is supported, the better it performs? (Less likely to wander off line?). On my DJH A1, I drilled and inserted a length of brass rod to support the piston rod over it's entire length.

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Hello JeffP, all,

 

it's a habit that I got into while building Stars, Castles and Kings, as you can see in the photo below, the rocking lever comes very close to the cylinder ends. At the same time the slide-bars should be carrying the cross-head, not the piston rod. The other thing about having a tube for the piston rod is that it will increase friction.   

post-8920-0-99136000-1396169920_thumb.jpg

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. how's Alcazar coming on?

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Thanks Ozzy.

Alcazar is still awaiting parts.....

 

And no, the loft won't be too hot, it has adequate ventilation....now, where's that "blowing-a-raspberry" icon when I want it? :no:

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Thanks Ozzy.

Alcazar is still awaiting parts.....

 

And no, the loft won't be too hot, it has adequate ventilation....now, where's that "blowing-a-raspberry" icon when I want it? :no:

Jef

 

I built this while waiting for the wheels for my 43XX class to arrive.

 

post-13601-0-00115400-1396195128_thumb.jpg

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OK, OK........I daren't start anything else before at LEAST getting past the block on this one.

 

I have decided that, in future, locos will be built as the kit manufacturer designed them. This one is having to have remedial work, because I tried to do something I'm obviously not skilful enough to do:dontknow: :dontknow:  Never again.

 

I now have the nickel silver for the remedial work, but it's in a sheet, rather than strips, so needs cutting out, which means the dreaded piercing saw and about an hour's work..............not what I'd call fun. I'm going to have to literally force myself to do it, as, at the moment, I'm finding things to do instead. It's that bad, sorry.

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OK, OK........I daren't start anything else before at LEAST getting past the block on this one.

 

I have decided that, in future, locos will be built as the kit manufacturer designed them. This one is having to have remedial work, because I tried to do something I'm obviously not skilful enough to do:dontknow: :dontknow:  Never again.

 

I now have the nickel silver for the remedial work, but it's in a sheet, rather than strips, so needs cutting out, which means the dreaded piercing saw and about an hour's work..............not what I'd call fun. I'm going to have to literally force myself to do it, as, at the moment, I'm finding things to do instead. It's that bad, sorry.

If it is strips that you need JeffP then why not use the Scrawker instead of the saw?

SAndy

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Hello all,

 

a few posts back I posted this photo, showing the opening cab windows,

post-8920-0-71174500-1396219554_thumb.jpg

 

As Martyn mentioned they are a two part casting, so for completeness here's a couple of photos showing the front and rear,

post-8920-0-96844200-1396219569_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-67211200-1396219584_thumb.jpg

 

The main job for today was the cylinders.

The first job of the day was fitting the cylinder wrappers, County and modified Halls had different cylinder wrappers to most other locos in that they had a small flat land at the top just under the hanging plate. This part I've strengthened with a length of square brass,

post-8920-0-52873600-1396219612_thumb.jpg

 

This kit looks to be one of the early ones, in that the wrappers are a bit on the wide side,

post-8920-0-72337100-1396219631_thumb.jpg

 

After a bit of work with the files the jobs a good one,

post-8920-0-13620400-1396219648_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-99837000-1396219665_thumb.jpg

 

Fitting the slide bar support brackets, that took a bit of work in that they were about 1mm too wide from the frames. So I cut the flange off the bracket and then soldered it in place on the frames. The next job was to remove enough metal from the brackets so that they would fit on to the slide bars and the bracket on the frames. This took a bit longer than I would have liked,

post-8920-0-67912800-1396219682_thumb.jpg

 

Getting ready to check the fit of the piston rod and the cross heads. These were pretty good before, but with all the work that has gone on it's best to check,

post-8920-0-66817100-1396219698_thumb.jpg

 

The first side was done in about 15 mins. The second side was a different story, it took about an hour. The first thing was the c/h was catching on the bracket, that was not too bad to sort out, then I kept getting a slight tight spot near to the bracket (but it was not catching on the bracket), so more blue was applied and this is what I found on the top slide bar,    

post-8920-0-88134100-1396219714_thumb.jpg

 

and on the bottom slide bar, the same, it was enough to cause a very slight tight spot. This is one of the things with slide bars. You don't just have the slippers and piston rod to look at but the brackets as well. The time spent sorting any tight spot now will repay you in the running latter on,

post-8920-0-18483100-1396219731_thumb.jpg

 

OzzyO.

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