david.hill64 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Eyelid supports for when you are still posting at 03:50? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 ...Can anyone tell me what all these bits are for? Clue they are for use on the frames .... For keeping pies in place? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 oiling point markers for 10% of them on one of the castle's.....tenders? hat coat etc... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 seeing that slaters plastic container ,they be a bit on the tiny side, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Is this like Mock the week where everyone gives a load of daft answers then eventually we have to give the right one to get points? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Sand pipes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Go on, I'll have a go...shorting wires for Slaters wheels/split axle thingies? JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I'll hazard a guess: 18 of them = three per driving wheel. Are they oil pipes from oil boxes to the axle box & horns? Never been under a Castle, so wild guess... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Sand pipe supports I reckon, though I rather prefer the pub walking sticks..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Come on Mr Ozzyo, I know your on line right now so spill the beans. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 The only beans being spilt are baked ones over his pies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 Hello all, I'm back on with the Castle build, looking back through the thread it looks like I've only posted one photo of the build, I thought that I'd posted more. After all of the frames were soldered together the first job was to remove all of the spring detail, like this, After these parts are removed the frames look like this, Then it's a matter of drilling a few hole, After cutting out the front and centre horn-gaps the frames were split apart, For these frames I'm using the widest frame spacers, but before I use them I have to remove some bit of them as I'm using the SDK, modified on the left, The main parts for the rear part of the frames laid out, I had a bit of brain fade in that I soldered two nut on the inside of the front frame spacer why I don't know as these go on the front set of frames, Starting to assemble the frames, To help keep the frames square I made some turned jigs to do this, Getting ready to solder the frames up, no I have not totally lost the plot, the front frame spacer is there to help to keep the frames at the correct space while I solder rear two spacers in position, Well we're up to the parts that have no name! And in place in the frames, do you know what they're for yet? The three sets of rear frames up to now, The starting point for the front parts of the frames, The starting point for two of the front sets of frames, these are for the joggled frames, Starting to bend up the sides, the two joggled frames are on the outside, The frames from the outside, note the different rivet patterns, The front frames at the close of play today, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium OnTheBranchline Posted July 10, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2014 Hello all, Sandy has painted his County in green, post-7733-0-75040200-1402841048.jpg and it looks very nice. i have panted my customers one in work shop grey, 300 002.jpg "My" one could have been painted in black, I would have liked to have primed it in black, it then would have been the second third 7mm loco that I have painted in black , all the rest have been in grey with about four in red primer, two streamlined Duchesses, one non-streamlined one, and one Furness Railway Baltic tank . I do like black engines, Honest. Do you want to see one of my black locos? You must hit more than 5 likes to see this loco, if you hit less than this you only see the baby loco, if you hit more than 10 you can see both of them. After 10 you can come and see the workshop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. How much to take it off your hands? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 How much to take it off your hands? Er, take what off my hands? If your talking about the County, it was never for sale as it was not my loco to sell. If you would like me to build you one PM me for the cost. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Er, take what off my hands? He might mean your pies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 OzzyO Not having seen it mentioned in the text are two of the models be to be constructed to S7 standards and the third to normal 7mm? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 OzzyO Not having seen it mentioned in the text are two of the models be to be constructed to S7 standards and the third to normal 7mm? Pete As the title says OF for all of them, two of them are to replace old ridge frames with new sprung / compensated frames. Before anyone asks, NO you can not take them off my hands. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 Hello all, a bit more of an update, more work on the front end of the frames. The cylinder formers and valve rods in place, along with the front frame spacers, In this photo you can see the small brass bushes that I've started to use for the inside piston rods (these ones are at the rear only) the front ones are still to be fitted, The three front ends lined up. Starting from the front, the first full filler in place, starting to cut out the parts that I don't want, all the bit roughed out, Well on the way with the cleaning up, The full width frames are starting to look something like, apart from the inset is a bit on the shallow side, Starting to get the curve on the outside of the frames, The inside of the inset on the full-width frames in place, I've just got to get the curve in place, The inside curve sorted out and the front piston rod bearings in place, The front end of the narrow end frames. Before anyone says that the inset frames should not have an inset I know that, but it does help to keep the wheels off the frames. The start of the inside cross heads all six of them! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Lots of work there. Do you find it dull doing three at once? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Castle bogie pics courtesy of Alex Daniell: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Dull,I find the worse thing is cutting the bits off the fret,can not imagine doing 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I suppose it's better than doing one after the other after the other! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hello all, work progresses on the Castles, following on from my last post, from the right the front of the C/H, the rear with the locating tabs filed off and the front again but this time with a small rebate for the piston rod to fit into. This is filed out using a small (2mmDia.) diamond file that I have, All six cross-heads filed up for the piston rod, and with the front face in place, these are fitted using my R.S.U. and 180 deg. solder, The overlays for the C/Hs. I'm looking at fitting them to both sides (not that you see much of them, inside of the frames), Most of the parts for the inside pistons, the top row of C/Hs are showing the outside faces, note the two types, The piston rods with the operating rod cross drilled and soldered in place, For cleaning up small parts I use one of these (a tea infuser, about £1.50 from Tesco etc.), The three front ends with the top inside part of the cylinders removed before cleaning up, I thought that it was getting a bit warm in the workshop last Sunday so I took this photo, Starting work on the rocking levers for the inside piston rods. I have now started to drill a hole for the valve rocking lever in them 2mm from the end of one of the slots (1.3mm dia.), After this a 10BA washer is soldered over the pivot hole (this will be counter sunk later) then form some lengths of brass wire (0.4 Dia.) in to U shapes to go around the open ends of the rockers, The main frames with the front ends in place, I tend to do this at an early stage just to make sure that the full lengths of the frames are all true. If required small lengths of shim brass will be soldered to the top or bottom of the rear of the cylinders to "bend" the joint, On the two locos that have joggled frames I decided to try out the Hobby-horse castings for the valves and rocker arms, after a quick grit blast on the left, The only part that I really wanted the rocker pivot, in place, The parts that are in the kit, these look OK and work well. But I'll let you decide! This is the part of building three loco that I'm not looking forward to doing all eighteen horn-blocks, guides, Etc. The main parts for one loco as supplied, one of the first jobs is to remove all of the casting sprues (and keep all of them), The first job that I tend to do with horn-guides is to clean up the out side and inside sliding faces, to do this I tend to use a 200 grit diamond slip, after the fist side is cleaned up (the inside) I give the outside a rub over and then measure the sizes. What I aim for is 4.45mm this gives a nice fit for the horn blocks to slide on (a bit of slack on this face is not a bad thing as it allows the block a bit of "twist" across the frames. After this I tend to clean up the matting faces of the horn-guides. The face across the top I tend to file a few thou below the two side faces, I don't know if it helps to get a better fit but I think it does, The next job was to clean up the horn keep mating face, I've kept the small strap on the bottom for now. After this I'll drill out the setting holes to 1.5mm or I may try 1/16" using a centre drill. I do this as the holes are cast at the tapping size for10BA but all of my springs are for 12BA screws, to sort this out I plug the holes with short lengths of 1.5mm brass tube and then tap them12BA, it's a bit of a pain but it works for me, The horn-blocks as cut off the sprue, the first job will be to clean up the axle faces and get them to the same sizes this will be done on the diamond lapping plate then all of the sprue will be milled off. After that I may ream out the bearings to 4.8mm or I may mill the slots out to 4.5mm. But before any of that I'll measurer all of them across the flats in the gaps to see how much they vary and see what size the gaps are in the horn-guides. This is where having a set of slip gauges would come in handy, but can I really justify £80 for a set of 32 of them (that looks to be a very good price), So yes doing eighteen of one part is a bit of a pain but once you work out how your going to do it and stick to it, it can work out quite quick to do. Batch building the frames will be quicker than building three sets of frames one after the other. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi OzzyO where do you buy your 200 grit diamond slip from? Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Hi OzzyO where do you buy your 200 grit diamond slip from? Len Hello all, Len, it's not a single sided diamond slip, but a four sided one having the following grits on it starting at the course one first 200, 300, 400 & 600 grits. I bought it from Aldi a while back for about £10.00. With a bit of luck these two photos should help, This is the info. on the end of the block, HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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