ozzyo Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 There doesn't appear anything wrong with the photo of 6861. There is the main piston rod below, and - slanted to the inside - is the valve rod. OzzyO's assembly is the same as that. Hello Horsetan, it's the orientation of the stuffing box on the piston rod (on the model) that is angled wrong, it should angle this way / not the way it does \. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Ozzy the method you describe is clear, and will be the most expedient I suspect that the right answer is to ask for a pair of handed castings... annoying, I sympathise Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Ozzy the method you describe is clear, and will be the most expedient I suspect that the right answer is to ask for a pair of handed castings... annoying, I sympathise Simon Hello Simon, slightly annoyingly these casting were handed with the hole for the pressure relief valve cast in place. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 OzzyO great post and I love the detailed descriptions of what you are doing. One thing that puzzled me though was the picture showing the cylinders from behind ( the first picture). I was expecting that the orientation of the cylinder assemblies would be symmetrical about the middle but the main cylinder block on the left hand side when looking from behind is not a mirror image of the one on the right hand side. I looked up a photo of a grange prototype(attached -zoom in to the cylinder) and it does look like there is something wrong at the back of the left hand cylinder where the piston rod enters - this should be orientated bottom left to top right??? ie comparing left and right cylinder blocks /.....\ and not \.....\ Does that make sense or did the prototype vary in the orientation? Tony OzzyO Is this due to an error during the kit design process or intentional for copyright reasons? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 PS. good to see some of you at Cleck. on Sat. Hi Paul, It was good to finally get to speak to you after several near misses at previous shows. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 it's the orientation of the stuffing box on the piston rod (on the model) that is angled wrong, it should angle this way / not the way it does \. Were all Granges the same? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Were all Granges the same? More than likely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 18, 2015 Author Share Posted June 18, 2015 Hello all, this will be a long one so as I do always say get yourself a drink, one of the first jobs was cutting the packing bits of brass back. As you can see I got one of the cuts a bits out. This will be sorted out later. For the oil pots on the slide-bars I had a look in one of my bits box and found these, the one on the right is how these are cast. Sorry about the quality of the photo, the marks are 0.5mm. In place on the top slide-bars. and in very close up. Starting work on the brackets for the cylinder drain cocks, these still have a bit of work to do on them. Starting work on the drain cocks operating linkage, as this kit is from approx. 1991 these were not included in the etch, so if you want them you have to make them and I did want them. The two of them cut out and a bit of tidying up work done. The curve formed for fitting them to the cylinder body. And fitted in place, the R/H end needs a bit of work doing to it to get it to look a bit better. The operating links for the drain taps bent to shape, yes I do tend to make more than I will need. And them in place on one side, the one for the valve drain tap needs a bit of work on it (the joy of digital cameras). Then it was back to the main loco frames and apply the overlays to them, these have had the holes for the brake pivots and the pick-up holes drilled out to size. The castings for the brake pivots cleaned up and tinned, for the tinning on these I've used 180Deg solder. Then it was onto the wheels. The way I do the wheels is as follows, clean up the back face of the wheels on a diamond sharpening block (or some wet'n'dry on a flat length of wood) this will clean up any bits that stick out. Then clean out the hole for the crank-pin (as I use 10BA for the pins that is 1.4mm) then I counter sink the back of the wheel 3mm. After that it's a wash in cellulose thinners and a quick dry, then clean the brass centre with a small brass brush on the outside only. After that all the wheels are washed in meths and dried using kitchen roil. Then it's applying Birchwood Casey gun black to the wheels in the following order. The brass centre, then the outer rim (I don't do the wheel tread) let it dry for a short time then turn the wheels over and do the inside of the wheel rim, and this is what you should end up with. After this these will be painted using a black etch primer on the outside face only, after the balance weights have been fitted. I was in a shop called Sally's it sells nail varnish and stuff for the hair dressing trade when I spotted this set of tweezers (the bottom set) these did cost about £8.50 but they do look a good set. The ones at the top are from Squire's and cost about £6.00 but go rusty when used with flux. How the new ones will react I don't know? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 OzzyO You blessed us with a picture of your nail recently. Now you admit to going into Sally's: for nail varnish perhaps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 OzzyO You blessed us with a picture of your nail recently. Now you admit to going into Sally's: for nail varnish perhaps Have you seen how long and wavy his curly locks are ? He probably went there for a " perm lotion and false eyelashes " Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 And a purple rinse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 The nail varnish in Sally's is too expensive starting at about £4, so I get mine from the £ shop. False eyelashes and a purple rinse that would go down a storm at Telford, dear. OzzyO. PS. I'm going to get you three at play-time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 Hello all, well this post has been a bit of a pain as I've had to up-load each photo (using Adobe Flash player 18.0????) As I've always used the same flash player to up-load any photos what is going on? The driving wheels after having a coat of etch primer. Checking the hight of the frames above the driving wheel axles on the front and rear ones. Then it was setting the middle set to allow them to move approx. 25 thou. above the centre line. The vac cylinder before and after cleaning up. Not that you can see that much of it! when it's in the frames. After cleaning up the Slater's axles in cellulose thinners and a clean in methylated spirits. The bl00dy things started to take on a rusty finish in a few minutes but when you apply the gun blue it works and stops the light rust. Sorry no photo of this. Then it was onto the brake gear this photos shows most of the bits for this, the only parts not shown are the bits that look like small spit pins, Starting to fit the brakes and making sure that they should not touch the wheels. This also shows why I keep the paint on the wheels it's a way of keeping the hot flux off the wheel rims. Checking the length of the safety chain when the cross beams are in place. Then you can check the length of them together using a length of 0.4mm brass wire. In place on one of the brake cross beams. Well that's all for now, If anyone can help about my up-loading of photos please let me know. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Have you altered your camera settings since your trip to the NRM? Are you trying to upload pics with to much resolution Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Have you seen how long and wavy his curly locks are ? He probably went there for a " perm lotion and false eyelashes ".... He was probably a footballer in the 1970s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 The cylinder wrappers in place, I've still to fit the following. A length of 2mm square brass to the inside top edge of the wrappers, the drain cock frames and the drain cocks. The wrapper only have two As seems to be normal with me I always seem to cut myself when building a loco kit. This is what I did yesterday while forming the wrappers to shape, nice!!!!!!! 001.jpg One job that I've still to do is check my photos for the position of any oil pots on the top slide-bars. OzzyO. Seems to be an occupational hazard. I drilled this finger just below the quick. Amazed to see how close I was to drilling through the hidden nail when it grew. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Very impressed with your cylinder drain cock levers,I say that as they are the parts im making at the moment in 5 inch gauge,Believe me they are fiddely in this scale,but in 7mm Wow,Some nice work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Where do you get the chain for the safety chains? Looks good. If I'm uploading files I just use browse and select the image. Flash player doesn't seem to come into use: it's for video. Are you trying to upload a video? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 yeah, and it's always out of date and vulnerable - how do they get away with producing software with more holes than the Albert Hall? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Have you altered your camera settings since your trip to the NRM? Are you trying to upload pics with to much resolution Didn't take the camera to the N.R.M. just my mobile phone so the settings are the same as always. Where do you get the chain for the safety chains? Looks good. If I'm uploading files I just use browse and select the image. Flash player doesn't seem to come into use: it's for video. Are you trying to upload a video? I get the chain from Squire's ref No.5627/03. It's about £5 for a meter and a meter does a good number of locos. When you click on reply with attachments, you see Attach files at the bottom of the page, then below it Browse, then below that Attach this file, then below that"Try our advanced uploader (requires flash 9), I've been using this for a while as it allows you to upload up to eight photos at a time (with some of my posts that's a godsend). But since I've updated to Adobe flash player 18.00??? I've been having problems. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Dare I ask if this will be delivered at Telford?? ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Will you be there? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 No Op is on the 3rd. All being well il be home on the Saturday Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 Dare I ask if this will be delivered at Telford?? ;-) Unfortunately not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hello all, first post on my build thread for a long time. But it's not going to be the Grange at the moment, it's going to be a bogie bolster 'C' from M&M models Welcome wagons range. http://www.modelrailwaywagons.co.uk/Index.htm This is the first kit that I've built from this range. To start with the castings, in this bag, the tie down rings (these look like they could be used in the loose or with tie down chains in position), the side stanchion pockets these come in two types empty and with stanchions in place. There may be more in the bag. The deck bolsters, Buffers (these are getting replaced with sprung ones), couplings (I may replace these latter on) and some other bits and pieces. The replacement buffers. Staying with W/M onto the bogies. These are quite simple as they are only in three parts, but not with out some small problems. The main one being that the holes for the bearings are cast at about 1/8" (approx. 3.1mm) and the bearings that I'm using are 2.5mm, so to take up most of the slack I used 3mm tube. The main parts for the bogies laid out, the wheels are from Pear tree engineering ( http://modelrailwayparts.com/index.html ) these are steel wheels with a small 'plastic' insulation bush near the axle. The axle bushes are also now fitted. The first bits soldered together, this is why I'm starting on a wagon kit first as I want to check how my soldering is before I start on the Grange kit. The completed bogies, the only down side that I can see is that there is no brake gear, it's not a big problem as you can hardly see anything of them on the real thing. The brass etches, the foot rule gives you an idea of the size of the wagon. In the instructions it recommends opening out the half etched folding lines, this is some thing that I strongly recommend that you do. To do this I start with a three square riffler (is that spelling correct?) file then finish off with a square file. You can see the before top and after below. The main body made up, this was just a matter of folding the brass up. The way that I did it was the top flange on the sides in my bending bars then the main sides using a flat bar and a flat base, then the ends in the same processes. Then the first bit of real soldering, the first buffer beam you can also see some marking out lines on the base of the body. More to follow so watch this space, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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